124.Shinagawa Batteries Part2

The battery is basically a flat structure to avoid being targeted from enemies’ guns and cannons, so visitors can not easily recognize its whole view. That’s why I recommend seeing the bird’s eye view before or after your visitation.

Later History

The later lives of the Shinagawa batteries have been mixed.
The No.1 and 5 Batteries have been engulfed by landfills.
The No.2 and No.7 (which was left because of the canceled construction) have been removed due to the convenience of transportation.
The No.4 (same as No.7) was sold to the private sector before being used for the ground of a dock. The ground has finally become a redevelopmental area of the waterfront, called Tennoz Isle. The remaining stone walls of the No.4 Battery can be seen as the base of its boardwalk.
The No.3 and No.6 are the last remaining historical sites. They were designated as a National Historic Site in 1926 and the No.3 Battery was opened as the Daiba Park in 1928.

Shinagawa Batteries drawn in a Ukiyoe-painting called the illustration of a steam locomotive at the seaside below Yatsuyama Mountain in Tokyo, attributed to Hiroshige Utagawa the third, in the Meiji Era, exhibited by Tokyo Metropolitan Library, The No.2 Battery was used as a lighthouse

The aerial photo around the batteries around 1945 to 1950

The aerial photo around the batteries around 1975

The Tennoz Isle
The boardwalk of Tennoz Isle
The stone walls of the No.4 Battery support the boardwalk

How to get There

Currently, there are two remaining batteries, No.3 and No.6 out of the five completed ones as mentioned above. In addition, only the ruins of the No.3 Battery are open to the public as a park. If you want to visit the No.3 battery ruins, which has now become Daiba Park, it takes about 10 minutes on foot from Odaibakaihinkoen Station on the Yurikamome line.

Odaibakaihinkoen Station

Walking from Tamachi Station

However, in order to look over the whole view of the two ruins (No.3 and No.6), try this route.
Get out of the train at Tamachi station on the JR Yamanote Line. Exit from the east entrance of the station. Go along Nagisa street for the time being. You can see the Rainbow Bridge which has promenades on both sides (north and south).

The east entrance of Tamachi Station
The Nagisa street
Going along the street
You can see the Rainbow Bridge

Get in the Shibaura entrance of the bridge and go up using the elevator. Select the south route to see the ruins to the south. If you go straight through the promenade, you will first see the whole view of the No.6 Battery.

The Shibaura entrance of the bridge
The entrance to the promenade
In the elevator
The south route

No.6 Battery like Birds’ Paradise

The battery is still isolated in the Tokyo Bay, being left as it has been to keep its original condition as much as possible though the canons and relative facilities were already removed. That’s why it looks as if it was during the first sight. However, if you look at it carefully, it is all covered with trees with uncountable number of birds gathering. According to a historian who visited it with permission from the government, it smells very bad and some structures collapsed naturally. It might have just become the birds’ paradise, so we may need to re-consider how to preserve it.

Getting close to the No.6 Battery
The No.6 Battery
birds are gathering among the trees
Passing by the No.6 Battery

Great View of No.3 Battery

When the promenade goes down with moderate slope, you will be near the park and the view of the No.3 Battery is becoming bigger and bigger. At this point, you will be facing the pier of the battery, it is the biggest one and extremely amazing! It is really a bird’s eye view. It also looks very much better than the No.6 in my opinion. The battery is basically a flat structure to avoid being targeted from enemies’ guns and cannons, so visitors can not easily recognize its whole view. That’s why I recommend seeing the bird’s eye view before or after your visitation.

Getting close to the No.3 Battery
The great view of the No.3 Battery right in front
The signpost of the Shinagawa Batteries at the edge
The stone walls surrounding the battery

To be continued in “Shinagawa Batteries Part3”
Back to “Shinagawa Batteries Part1”

124.品川台場 その2

台場は基本的に、敵からの銃や大砲の標的にならないよう、平面的に設計されています。よって、公園に行ってしまうとなかなかその全体像がつかめません。それなので、現地に行く前か後に、鳥観図のような景色を見ていただきたいのです。

その後

品川台場のその後の運命は少々複雑でした。
一番台場と五番台場は、埋め立てにより消滅しました。
二番台場と七番台場(工事が中止されたまま残っていました)は、海上交通の便のため撤去されました。
四番台場(七番台場と同じ事情)は造船所の敷地として使われました。ただ、その敷地は今ではウォーターフロントの再開発地区「天王洲アイル」となっています。そのボードウォークの基礎部分に、四番台場の残存石垣を見ることができます。
三番台場と六番台場が最終的に史跡として残りました。1926年には国の史跡に指定され、三番台場については1928年に台場公園として一般に公開されました。

「東京八ツ山下海岸蒸気車鉄道之図」、三世歌川広重作、明治時代、二番台場は灯台として使われていました、出典:東京都立図書館

1945年~1950年頃の品川台場周辺の航空写真

1975年頃の品川台場周辺の航空写真

天王洲アイル
天王洲アイルのボードウォーク
ボードウォークを支える四番台場の石垣

ここに行くには

前項で申し上げました通り、5つの完成した台場のうち、三番台場と六番台場が現存しています。そして、三番台場のみが公園として一般に公開されています。その台場公園と名付けられた三番台場跡に行くには、ゆりかもめ線のお台場海浜公園駅から歩いて約10分かかります。

お台場海浜公園駅

田町駅から歩く

しかし、もし2つの台場跡(三番と六番)の全景をご覧になりたいのでしたら、以下の行き方を試してみて下さい。
JR山手線の田町駅で電車を降ります。田町駅の東口から外に出てください。なぎさ通りの沿ってしばらく進んでください。そうするうちにレインボーブリッジが見えてきます。

田町駅東口
なぎさ通り
通りに沿って進みます
レインボーブリッジが見えてきました

この橋には両側(北側と南側)に遊歩道が付いています。橋の芝浦口(西詰の入口)から中に入り、エレベータで上にあがってください。台場跡は南側にあるので、南ルートを選んでください。歩道をまっすぐ進んでいくと、まず最初に六番台場が見えてきます。

レインボーブリッジ芝浦口
遊歩道入口
エレベータの中
南ルート

鳥の楽園のような六番台場

六番台場は今でも東京の湾上に孤立しています。大砲や関連施設は撤去されていますが、できるだけオリジナルの状態を保つために、そのまま放置されています。そのため一見するとかつてあったようにも見えるのですが、よくよく見てみると、台場中が木々と無数の参集している鳥たちによって覆われています。特別な許可をもらって上陸した歴史家によると、そこには悪臭が立ち込め、元からあった構造物の中には自然と崩壊しているものもあったそうです。まるで鳥の楽園に化しているようです。この台場の保存のあり方には再検討が必要かもしれません。

六番台場に近づいていきます
六番台場
繁茂した木々に無数の鳥たちが集まっています
六番台場を過ぎ去ります

すばらしい三番台場の眺め

橋の歩道は緩やかな下り坂となり、台場公園に近づくとともに、三番台場の姿が次第に大きくなってきます。ちょうど台場の船着き場の正面に立ったあたりで最大となり、見事な絵柄となります。鳥になって見ている気分です。個人的には六番台場よりずっとよい状態に見えます。台場は基本的に、敵からの銃や大砲の標的にならないよう、平面的に設計されています。よって、公園に行ってしまうとなかなかその全体像がつかめません。それなので、現地に行く前か後に、鳥観図のような景色を見ていただきたいのです。

今度は三番台場に近づきます
真正面からの素晴らしい眺めです
先端にある「品川台場」の標柱
台場を囲む石垣

「品川台場その3」に続きます。
「品川台場その1」に戻ります。

今回の内容を趣向を変えて、Youtube にも投稿しました。よろしかったらご覧ください。

124.Shinagawa Batteries Part1

The arrival of Matthew Perry’s fleet from the U.S. in 1853 gave a big impact on the shogunate’s policy. The shogunate ordered Hidetatsu Egawa to build the certain defensive system in Edo Bay immediately before Perry’s second arrival.

Location and History

Perry’s Arrival leads Construction of Batteries

The map around Tokyo Bay

Odaiba is one of the popular tourist spots in the waterfront area of Tokyo. The land’s name directly means the honorific of batteries and originates from Shinagawa Batteries which were built by the Tokugawa Shogunate to protect Edo City during the end of the Edo Period. The area still has a few of the ruins of the batteries.

Odaiba Seaside Prak, you can see the ruins of No.3 Battery in the sea

When Western ships often appeared around Japan at that time, the shogunate ordered some feudal domain lords and its own divisions to protect the inside and outside of Edo Bay (the current Tokyo Bay) from possible invasions by the ships. However, they were actually not able to protect even the 8km wide Uraga Channel, the mouth of the bay by their batteries because they didn’t have Blue water navy due to their isolationism. That’s why the shogunate’s basic policy of how to treat the Western ships coming to Japan was to hear their purposes, give materials they needed, and persuade them to return their countries. Therefore, the first arrival of Matthew Perry’s fleet from the U.S. in 1853 gave a big impact on the shogunate’s policy. His fleet intentionally broke the line of the bay mouth and demonstrated its power in the bay to ask the shogunate to open the country.

The mouth of the bay, seen from Kanaya Port at Boso Peninsula
Matthew Perry, around 1856 to 1858 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The monument of Perry’s landing in Kurihama Coast at Miura Peninsula

Hidetatu Egawa builds Batteries at Sea off Shinagawa

After that, the shogunate ordered Hidetatsu Egawa who was an excellent official and learned the Western sciences to build the certain defensive system in Edo Bay immediately before Perry’s second arrival. Hidetatsu thought it would be the priority to build the final protective line for the Shogun’s Edo Castle and the city area, about 2km off the coast beside the Shinagawa Post Station. The line would consist of several batteries in coastal castles which would bring a cross fire to enemies’ ships. Another reason for the location was that the coastal area was too shallow that the large Western battle ships, like Perry’s flag ship, Susquehanna, would not be able to enter it. In addition, the batteries were out of their range, therefore, they would only be able to confront with gun boats.

The self -portrait of Hidetatsu Egawa (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The final protective line drawn in “The Illustration of Shinagawa Batteries”, exhibited by Tokyo Metropolitan Library
Susquehanna, the flag ship of the 1853 Perry’s fleet (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The number of the batteries in the original plan was 11 and the first three ones (No.1 to 3) were completed within a year before Perry’s return, which would be called Shinagawa Batteries. Each battery was on an artificial isolated square island which was surrounded by stone walls and equipped with cannons and related items, which were generally called redoubts. The basic design of the batteries came from several books of the Western military sciences which Hidetatsu and his staff translated. The canons were provided domestically by emulating the Western canons’ designs. However, some of them were cast iron canons the Saga Domain had just succeeded in producing, which were close to the worldwide level. The stone walls were built in the Japanese style, but the top of them was built using a new method called Hanedashi which emulated the European castles. In addition, one of the original ideas for the batteries was to build breakwater piles around them. They would also be used to prevent enemies’ gun boats from getting close to the batteries.

The specification drawing of No.3 Battery in Shinagawa Batteries, Edo Bay, exhibited by Tokyo Metropolitan Library
A bronze cannon used in a Shinagawa battery, exhibited by Yushukan Meseum
The Hanedashi system seen in No.3 Battery
The breakwater piles in the specification drawing above

System is maintained until End of Edo Period

The shogunate concluded a treaty with Perry in 1854, known as the Japan–US Treaty of Peace and Amity. The constructions of Shinagawa Batteries continued, but only five (No.1 to 3, 5 and 6) out of the planned 11 were completed and 2 (No.4 and 7) out of 11 were canceled in the middle of their constructions. The reason for it was the shortage of the budget and the stabilization of the diplomatic relationship with the Western Countries after the treaty. The operations of the batteries were done by warriors from several feudal domains. For example, the Oshi Domain, which was based in Oshi Castle, was in charge of the No.3 Battery. The warriors went to the isolated sea battery by using small boats and stayed in the barrack inside with no baths until the next team came.

The current No.3 Battery

The shogunate also thought the defense system was still not enough. It built coast batteries instead of the uncompleted sea batteries, such as the Battery below Goten-yama Mountain, to support the completed sea batteries. It also built their own gun boats to work closely with these batteries. Each sea battery had its pier where the boats were able to stop. The operation of the defense line lasted until 1868 when the shogunate was defeated by the New Government, known as the Meiji Restoration.

The aerial photo around the batteries around 1945 to 1950, the grounds for them remained until then

The ruins of the Battery below Goten-yama Mountain, located around the past coastline
The tier of the No.6 Battery which may be similar to the original

The evaluation of Shinagawa Batteries may be difficult because they were actually not used for battles and the specs of the cannons installed in the batteries became obsolete quickly. However, historians say the batteries worked as a deterrence for invasion by the Western countries. They pointed out that the qualities of the canons in the batteries were at the same level as those equipped in Perry’s fleet. A diplomat from the U.K., who saw the batteries, reported to his government that the batteries had technology levels which were equivalent to the Western cannons.

Shinagawa Batteries drawn in a Ukiyoe-painting called Takanawa Shugetsu (meaning Autumn Moon in Takanawa), attributed to Hiroshige Utagawa the second, exhibited by Tokyo Metropolitan Library

To be continued in “Shinagawa Batteries Part2”