102.Kaminokuni-Katsuyama Date Part1

The Mountain Castle & The Ainu People

Location and History

Japanese people get active in Hokkaido where Ainu people live

Kaminokuni-Katsuyama Date was a hall which was built in the Middle Ages in the western part of Oshima Peninsula of Hokkaido. At that time, the island was called Ezo, where the Ainu people lived. They spoke a different language and had a different way of life from the Japanese people that lived on the mainland. They earned a living by hunting, fishing and trading, unlike the mainland Japanese people, who farmed.

The location of the castle

The painting of Ainu men, attributed to Isabella Lucy Bird, in the 19th Century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

In the late 14th Century, some Japanese people were active in the Oshima Peninsula, in particular the southern edge of Hokkaido. The leaders started to build several halls for living and trading alongside this peninsula. The halls were called the Dounan (southern region) 12 Halls, such as Shinori Tate in the eastern part of the peninsula which was called “Shimonokuni” or the lower province. While the western part was referred to as “Kaminokuni” or the upper province.

The ruins of Shinori Tate

Nobuhiro Takeda repels Ainu Rebellion

The Ando Clan, which led the Japanese people in Ezo, also tried to rule the island aggressively. Because of this, it caused an uprising of the Ainu people, who was led by their leader Koshamain in 1456. The angry Ainu people managed to capture 10 of the 12 Dounan Halls, including Shinori Tate. One of the two surviving halls was Hanazawa Tate located in the upper province, which was owned and controlled by The Kakizaki Clan, who was affiliated with the Ando Clan. They were obviously at a disadvantage however, because the rebellion was ultimately crushed when Koshamain was shot with an arrow by Nobuhiro Takeda, a guest commander of The Kakizaki Clan.

The portrait of Nobuhiro Takeda (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Nobhuhiro is originally from Wakasa province, which at that time was located in the central region of the mainland of Japan, which did a lot of trading with Ezo, via the Sea of Japan. For example, potteries like Echizen ware that were made in the surrounding areas were often used in Ezo. The province sold kelp, processed from Ezo. Nobuhiro might have been a vagrant on this well-known route. Therefore, he managed to only become the adopted son of The Kakizaki Clan, but also the chosen leader of the Japanese people in Ezo Island.

A jar of Echizen ware in the Middle Ages, owned by Hakone Museum of Art (licensed by Daderot via Wikimedia Commons)

Nobuhiro builts Kaminokuni-Katsuyama-Date

Nobuhiro would eventually build a new hall near Hanazawa Tate, on a hill located below Iouzan Mountain, which is now known as Kaminoyama-Katsuyama Date, in 1470. The word “Date” means “hall”, however because of its size, it looked more like a mountain castle or a sort of medieval city on the mountain. Nobuhiro probably built his stronger hall based on his experience because most of his previous halls ended up being captured. The hill of the hall had deep valleys on both sides, and dry moats in both the front and the back. There were lots of houses on the hill as well, which were surrounded by fences. A famous region was the Oma Port, located below the hill, so the lord of the hall managed to control the trading that happened at the coast of this region.

The miniature model of Kaminokuni-Katsuyama-Date, exhibited by the Katsuyama Castle Guidance Facility

Even after the completion of the new hall, some Ainu people would sometimes rebel and attack the hall. The Kakizaki Clan under the command of Nobuhiro, managed to repel the Ainu attacks, mainly because of the robust construction of the hall, and by the use of traps. The Kakizaki Clan were very cunning, as they managed to convince the Ainu people to join them in a peace treaty. After filling up on liquor, the Ainu people were too intoxicated to fight back, and were ultimately murdered during the party. Ainu people never doubted the Kakizaki’s intentions. On the other hand, both Japanese and Ainu people somehow managed to live in harmony together, in the medieval city. You can even find burial sites where both Japanese people and Ainu people were buried in. This led to a long and complex relationship between the Japanese people and the Ainu people.

The defense system of the front of Kaminokuni-Katsuyama-Date, from the miniature model above
burial mounds of Ainu people around the hall

The Kakizaki Clan eventually moved their home base to Matsumae, the southern edge of the peninsula because it was more convenient location for trading. That lead to the launch of both the Matsumae Domain, as well as Matsumae Castle during the Edo Period. Soon after that, the clan renamed themselves The Matsumae Clan. Eventually, Kaminokuni-Katsuyama Date would be abandoned during early stages of the Edo Period.

Matsumae Castle

To be continued in “Kaminokuni-Katsuyama-Date Part2”

102.上ノ国勝山館 その1

この山城とアイヌの人たちの複雑な関係

立地と歴史

アイヌ人が住む北海道に和人が進出

上ノ国勝山館(かみのくにかつやまだて)は、北海道の渡島半島の西部に、中世に築かれた館です。その当時、北海道は蝦夷と呼ばれていて、アイヌ民族の人たちが住んでいました。彼らは本州に住んでいた日本民族(和人)とは違う言語や生活様式を持っていました。本州の和人が農業を行っていたのとは異なり、狩猟、漁撈、貿易によって生活の資を得ていたのです。

城の位置

イザベラ・バードによるアイヌ男性のスケッチ、19世紀 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

14世紀後半、一部の和人は特に北海道の南端、渡島半島での活動を活発化させていました。そのリーダーたちは居住及び貿易を行うため、いくつもの館を半島沿いに築き始めました。これらの館は道南十二館と呼ばれており、例えば「下ノ国」と呼ばれた半島の東部では志苔館(しのりたて)が築かれました。一方、半島の西部は「上ノ国」と呼ばれていました。(その中間地点が「松前」となります。)

志苔館跡

アイヌの反乱を武田信広が鎮圧

蝦夷地域での日本人を統率していた安東氏もまた、蝦夷の支配を強化しようとしていました。そのことから、1456年にはアイヌ人のリーダーであったコシャマインによって反乱が起こりました。和人の支配に反発したアイヌの反乱軍は、道南十二館のうち、志苔館を含む10個の館までを占領しました。2つの生き残った館のうち一つは、上ノ国にあった花沢館でした。この館は、安東氏の影響下にあった蠣崎(かきざき)氏が治めていました。彼らは明らかに不利な立場にあったのですが、蠣崎氏の食客であった部将、武田信広がコシャマインを矢によって射殺し、反乱を鎮圧しました。

武田信広肖像画 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

信広は、その当時日本の中心部であった本州の若狭国の出身でした。若狭国と蝦夷は、日本海を通じて盛んに交易を行っていました。例えば、越前焼などの若狭国周辺で作られた焼き物が、蝦夷ではよく使われていました。また若狭国では「若狭昆布」として蝦夷で採れ、若狭で加工された昆布が販売されていました。信広は、この交易ルートに乗って若狭から蝦夷に流れてきたのかもしれません(若狭国守護、武田氏の一族とも言われています)。そして、彼は乱を鎮圧した功績により、蠣崎氏の養子となり跡継ぎに収まっただけでなく、蝦夷における和人のリーダーにも目されたのです。

中世の越前焼の壺、箱根美術館蔵 (licensed by Daderot via Wikimedia Commons)

信広が上ノ国勝山館を築城

やがて信広は1470年に、夷王山(いおうざん)下の丘の上に新しい館を築きました。これが上ノ国勝山舘です。「館」というネーミングは、まさに館、御殿といった感じですが、その規模、建て付けから見ると、それは山城か、もしくは山上の中世都市と言った方がしっくりくるでしょう。信広は、それまでの館がほとんど占領されてしまったという経験から、より強力な館を作ったのだと思われます。館があった丘は両側が深い谷になっており、正面と背面には空堀が掘られました。丘上には多くの住居もあり、全体を柵によって囲まれていました。丘の麓の方には、よく知られた貿易港であった大間港があって、館の領主はこの沿岸沿いで行われる貿易活動をコントロールできるようになっていました。

上ノ国勝山館の模型、勝山館跡ガイダンス施設にて展示

この新しい館の完成後であっても、一部のアイヌ人はなお和人に反抗し、この館を攻撃してきました。信広配下の蠣崎氏は、主にはこの館の強力な防御力のおかげでアイヌの攻撃を撃退することができました。しかし一方では謀略も駆使しており、アイヌの長たちを講和を結ぶと称して宴会に招待し、酔ったところを見計らって、暗殺したりしました(こういったことは松前藩が編纂した「新羅之記録(しんらのきろく)」に堂々と書かれているそうです)。アイヌの人たちは、一度約束したことは決して疑わない性質で、蠣崎のいうことを信じてしまったのです。反面、丘上の館がある中世都市では和人とアイヌが調和して一緒に生活していました。この館跡の墓地では、和人とアイヌ両方の人たちが葬られているのを見ることができます。これらの事実は、和人とアイヌの長く複雑な関係を表していると言えるでしょう。

上ノ国勝山館の正面防御の様子、上記模型より
館周辺のアイヌ人の墳墓群

やがて蠣崎氏はその本拠地を、渡島半島の南端の松前に移しました。貿易を行うにはより便利な土地だったからです。この地で江戸時代に松前藩が成立し、更には(幕末ではありますが)松前城が築かれます。本拠地を移して程なく、蠣崎氏は名乗りを松前氏に変えました。そうするうちに上ノ国勝山舘は、江戸時代の初めには廃城となりました。

松前城

「上ノ国勝山館その2」に続きます。

3.Matsumae Castle Part3

Will the Main Tower be rebuilt or repaired?

Features

Northern and Western parts of Castle

If you have time, you should consider walking around the other sides of the castle ruins. The temple district is beside the Outer Moat Ruins at the northern side of the castle. It had originally been built for the defense of this side when the site had only the hall. However, this side eventually became the weakest point compared with the other sides of the castle. That’s why the former Shogunate Army was able to attack it. You can now enjoy a relaxing walk there seeing some of the temple buildings which were designated as Important Cultural Properties.

The map around the castle

The Outer Moat Ruins at the northern side of the castle
The main gate of Hogenji Temple as an Important Cultural Property
Ryuunin Temple as an Important Cultural Property

The western side is a promenade on the bottom of the former Outer Moat. You can walk on it by looking up at the Main Enclosure. This side is supposed to be more defensive than the northern side.

The promenade on the bottom of the former Outer Moat
You can see how tall the Main Enclosure is
Looking up at the Main Enclosure

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Matsumae Castle was abandoned and only the Main Tower and the gate in the Main Enclosure remained as the ruins. However, the tower was unfortunately burned down by an accidental fire in 1949. It was externally restored in 1961, but since it’s been 60 years, its concrete building looks old. So, Matsumae Town is considering whether the tower should be rebuilt in the original way or repaired including safety measures such anti-earthquake systems. In addition, the castle ruins have been designated as a National Historic Site since 1935.

The Main Tower of Matsumae Castle before being burned down, taken in 1935  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The restored Main Tower
The Main Tower building looks aging when you see its interior

My Impression

I think Matsumae Castle is a very unique one which has a mix of the traditional Japanese style and a newer advanced style which matches the current situation. As a result, it may have been not enough as the castle was defeated twice. However, it must also be preserved as a record of history. In my opinion, the best season for visiting it should be spring with cherry blossoms, but be aware that there will be a huge crowd as well. Cherry Blossom season is a popular time for locals as well as tourists, so expect more people than usual.

The Man Enclosure Gate in the front and the Main Tower in the back
The Man Enclosure Gate on the left and the Main Tower on the right
hydrangea blooming is also good

How to get There

I recommend using a car when you visit the castle ruins because there are only a few buses available.
It is about a 2-hour drive away from Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station or the center of Hakodate City. From Hakodate Airport, it takes about 2.5 hours to get there. There is a parking lot in the castle ruins. It may be a good idea to rent a car at the station or the airport.
To get to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station from Tokyo: Take the Hokkaido Shinkansen super express at Tokyo Station.

That’s all. Thank you.
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