133.Samegao Castle Part1

The final place of the Otate Rebellion and Kagetora Uesugi

Location and History

Branch of Kasugayama Castle

Samegao Castle was located on a mountain in the western part of Echigo Province which is now Nigata Prefecture. It is uncertain when the castle was first built, but in the late 16th Century, it was one of the satellite castles of Kasugayama Castle, the home base of Kenshin Uesugi. Kenshin was one of the greatest warlords at that time in Japan, who built the network of castles to protect his home base. Samegao Castle is, in fact, rather well-known as the final battlefield of the Otate Rebellion and the place of Kagetora Uesugi’s death, who was defeated in the rebellion.

The location of the castle

The portrait of Kenshin Uesugi, owned by the Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The network of the branch castles around Kasugayama Castle exhibited by Joetsu City Buried Cultural Property Center, Samegao Castle is marked by the red circle

Kagetora is adopted from Hojo to Uesugi

Kagetora Uesugi was an adopted child of Kenshin, but had been born as a family member of the Hojo Clan, which fought with Kenshin over the Kanto Region. The reason why Kagetora came to Uesugi was that Uesugi and the Hojo made peace temporarily in 1569 against the Takeda Clan. The Takeda clan broke the alliance of the three clans (Takeda, Imagawa and Hojo) by invading Imagawa territory. The Hojo clan was very angry about it. However, the new alliance between Uesugi and the Hojo lasted for only two years because the Hojo quit and reforged the alliance with the Takeda in 1571. Ordinarily, Kagetora could have been returned to the Hojo, but Kenshin let Kagetora stay as a part of the Uesugi clan for some reason. It is said that Kenshin personally liked Kagetora. Even though no portraits of Kagetora remain, records say he was attractive and looked beautiful.

The imaginary portrait of Kagetora Uesugi, from the signboard at the site

Two adopted sons are against each other after Kenshin’s death

With the cessation of the alliance with the Hojo, Kenshin adopted another son from his relatives, called Kagekatsu Uesugi. Kenshin seemed to hope that Kagetora would support Kagekatsu and they would cooperate with each other. Many historians also say Kenshin had not clearly decided his successor before his sudden death in March 1578. In fact, these two adopted sons lived in the same Kasugayama Castle as if Kagekatsu was the master for a while after their father’s death. However, the situation didn’t allow them to make peace. The trusted vassals of Kagekatsu, who were the core members of the government, supported him. Other local lords in Echigo Province and some warlords outside the province supported Kagetora because he had come from the outside. Kagetora’s parents’ home, the Hojo and its ally, the Takeda especially wanted him to be the successor. That made the two successor candidates battle each other starting in May 1578, which was called the Otate Rebellion.

The portrait of Kagekatsu Uesugi, owned by Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Otate or the Palace, was originally the residence for Norimasa Uesugi, who was a former shogunate deputy for the Kanto Region and Kenshin’s foster father. Kagetora escaped from Kasugayama Castle to the residence, about 5km from the castle. It became his home base during the battle for nearly one year. At the beginning of the battle, Kagetora was superior in terms of support to Kagekatsu until the lord of the Takeda, Katsuyori Takeda came to Echigo Province with his troops to support Kagetora in June. However, Kagekatsu let Katsuyori return to his home by giving a lot of money and promising to cede some territories. After that, the situation reversed as Kagekatsu had many native loyal retainers while Kagetora had few because of his career. Kagekatsu finally made a full-scale attack on the Otate Residence before it fell in March 1579. Kagetora escaped and tried to get to Odawara, his parental familial home base, Odawara Castle. He stopped by a castle of his supporter, Munechika Horie, which would be the place of his death. This place was called Samegao Castle.

The Portrait of Katsuyori Takeda, owned by Koyasan Jimyoin (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The imaginary scene of the Otate Residence’s fall, exhibited by the Hida Historical Village Information Center

Kagetora dies in Samegao Castle

Samegao Castle was a satellite castle, but had a large scale because it was on the way to Shinao Province (now Nagano Pref.), south of Echigo, where Kenshin and Shingen Takeda, who was Katsuyori’s father, often battled each other. It was a typical mountain castle at that time, using natural terrain to make it defensive. Many enclosures made of soil were built on the ridges. They were divided by artificial ditches and connected by narrow paths cut vertically on both sides. The routes through the valleys were zigzagged so that enemies could not attack the castle easily.

The statues of Shingen Takeda (on the left) and Kenshin Uesugi (on the right) at the Kawanakajima Battlefield in Nagano Prefecture
The illustration of Samegao Castle Ruins, from the signboard at the site

Even staying in the strong castle, Kagetora was not able to survive without reinforcement from the outside. He was attacked by Kagekatsu’s pursuing troops right away. Some records say Munechika Horie, the lord of the castle also betrayed Kagetora. Kagetora finally committed Harakiri (ritual suicide) at the age of 26 after the castle buildings were burned by the troops.

The ruins of Samegao Castle

To be continued in “Samegao Castle Part2”

133.鮫ヶ尾城 その1

御館の乱と上杉景虎の終焉の地

立地と歴史

春日山城の支城

鮫ヶ尾城は、現在は新潟県である越後国の西部にあった山城でした。この城が最初にいつ築かれたのかは分かっていませんが、16世紀後半には上杉謙信の本拠地である春日山城の支城の一つとなっていました。謙信は、その当時の日本では最も有力な戦国大名の一人であり、その本拠地を守るために城のネットワークを構築したのです。鮫ヶ尾城は、実のところ、支城としてよりも御館(おたて)の乱の最終決戦地として、そしてその乱で敗者となった上杉景勝の終焉の地として有名となっています。

城の位置

上杉謙信肖像画、上杉神社蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
春日山城を中心とした支城ネットワーク、上越市埋蔵文化財センターにて展示、鮫ヶ尾城は赤丸内

景虎、北条氏から上杉氏の養子となる

上杉景虎は謙信の養子でしたが、もとは謙信と関東地方をめぐって戦っていた北条氏の一族として生まれました。景虎が上杉家に来ることになった理由は、1569年に武田氏に対抗して上杉と北条が一時的に講和を結ぶことになったからです。武田氏(武田信玄)は、武田・今川・北条による三国同盟を今川氏の両国に攻め込むことで破っていたのです。北条氏(北条氏康)はこれに大いに怒っていました。ところが、上杉と北条の新しい同盟はたった2年しか続かず、北条は上杉との同盟を止めて1571年に再び武田と同盟を結びました(北条が氏康から氏政に代替わりしたことが大きな要因でした)。通常であれば、ここで景虎は北条に返されるはずでした。ところが謙信はなぜか景虎を上杉の一員として留めたのです。一説として謙信が景虎を個人的に気に入っていたと言われています。景虎の肖像画は残っていないのですが、記録によれば、彼は魅力的でかつ眉目秀麗だったとされています。

上杉景虎の想像画、現地説明板より

謙信の死後、2人の養子が対立

北条との同盟が手切れになったことで、謙信は親族よりもう一人の養子を迎えます。それが上杉景勝でした。謙信は、景虎が景勝を支え、お互いに協力していくことを願ったようです。また多くの歴史家は、謙信は1578年3月の突然の彼の死までに、明確に後継者を決めていなかったと言います。実際には、二人の養子は養父の死後しばらくは、景勝が当主であるかのごとく同じ春日山城で暮らしていました。ところが周りの状況が二人の平穏を許してくれなかったのです。景勝の古くからの家臣は、上杉家の中枢として当然景勝を支持しました。越後国の地方領主や他国の戦国大名は景虎を支持しました。彼が外部出身者だからです。特に景虎の実家である北条氏とその同盟者である武田氏は、景虎が後継者となることを望みました。このことにより二人の候補者は1578年5月に戦うことになってしまったのです。この戦いは御館の乱と呼ばれています。

上杉景勝肖像画、上杉神社蔵、江戸時代 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

御館はもともと、元関東管領で、謙信の養父でもあった上杉憲政の屋敷でした。景虎は春日山城から約5km離れた御館に避難していたのです。この場所は乱の間、1年近く彼の本拠となりました。この戦いの初期の段階では景虎の方が他からの支援を受けられることで、景勝より優位な立場にありました。6月には武田勝頼が軍勢を率いて景虎を支持するために越後国に達していたのです。ところが景勝は、多額の金銭贈与と領土の割譲を約束することで、勝頼を引き返させてしまったのです。その結果、状況は逆転しました。景勝は多くの忠誠を誓う家臣がいる一方、景虎はその出自のせいで頼りになる家臣は少なかったのです。景勝はついに御館の屋敷に対して総攻撃をかけ、1579年3月に御館は陥落しました。景虎はそこから逃れ、彼の実家である北条氏の本拠地である小田原城に至ろうとしたのです。そして、彼を支援する堀江宗親(ほりえむねちか)の城に立ち寄りました。そして、そこが彼の最後の地となったのです。それが鮫ヶ尾城でした。

武田勝頼肖像画、高野山持明院蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
炎上する御館の想像図、斐太歴史の里総合案内所にて展示

景虎敗れ、鮫ヶ尾城で自刃

鮫ヶ尾城は一支城でしたが、規模は大きく、それは謙信と勝頼の父である武田信玄が何度も戦った信濃国(現在の長野県で越後国の南方)の途上にある場所だったからです。この城は当時の典型的な山城であり、自然の地形を利用して防御を固めていました。土造りの多くの曲輪が山の峰上に築かれていました。これらの曲輪は人工的な堀切によって区切られ、両側を垂直にカットされた細い通路によってつながっていました。谷を通る通路は曲がりくねって作られ、敵が城を容易に攻撃できないようになっていました。

川中島古戦場にある武田信玄(左)と上杉謙信(右)の銅像
鮫ヶ尾城跡図、現地説明板より

いくら強力な城に滞在しているとは言え、景虎は他からの援軍がなければ生き残ることはできません。彼は、景勝は発した景虎追討軍にすぐに追いつかれ攻撃されました。ある記録によれば、城主である堀江宗親まで景虎を裏切ったと言われています。景虎はついに、景勝の軍勢により火をかけられた城内で自刃しました。享年26歳でした。

鮫ヶ尾城跡

「鮫ヶ尾城その2」に続きます。

128.Yogaiyama Castle Part3

More needs to be done to improve this historical site

Features

Strong defense in Back side

If you have time, you should check out the back side of the castle. This is because the ridge on the back is very narrow, so original trail and the ruins along it seem to remain as it was. The Main Enclosure and the enclosure behind it are divided by an artificial ditch to prevent enemies from attacking form the back. The ditch is partly supported by stone walls to avoid collapsing, which is rare in Japanese castles.

The ditch using stone walls divides the Main Enclosure and the back

The map around the castle

Moreover, two earthen lookout platforms are in line on the ridge at the back of these enclosures. They are also partly supported by stone walls or stone mound, which are also uncertain who built or improved it.

One of the lookout platforms
The stone walls supporting the platform
The trail gets thin between the platforms

The trail goes beside the platforms and between them, which was made thin cut by vertical moats both sides. That meant the defenders on the platforms would see and counterattack enemies easily.

The trail between the platforms
Looking up the platform from the thin trail
Overlooking the trail from the platform

Later History

In the Edo Period, a stone statue of the Takeda Fudoson or Acala, which worshiped Shingen Takeda, was built in an enclosure between the Gate Ruins No.2 and No.3. It has since been called the Fudo Enclosure. After the Meiji Restoration, the castle site continued to deteriorate, so local people built the stone monument of the birthplace of Shingen Takeda in 1929 to preserve them. The title of the monument was written by Heihachiro Togo, a famous admiral of the Japanese Imperial Navy. The castle ruins have been designated as a National Historic Site since 1991.

the Takeda Acala
The stone monument for the birthplace of Shingen Takeda at the Main Enclosure

My Impression

I recommend visiting both ruins of Yogaiyama Castle and Takeda Clan Hall at the same time because you will be able to see how the Takeda Clan protected their home base. They must have been like one castle or a set. On the other hand, let me ask one thing to Kofu City. In the ruins of Takeda Clan Hall, excavations and studies are often being done in recent years. However, why have the ruins of Yogaiyama Castle not been developed? More explanations is needed for historical fans at the site. Some parts of the ruins are covered with bushes. I hope in the future that the city will develop this mountain castle ruins as a set with Takeda Clan Hall.

The ruins of Takeda Clan Hall
A Masugata entrance of Takeda Clan Hall (The northern entrance of the Western Enclosure)
Excavations are ongoing at Takeda Clan Hall Ruins
A situation of Yogaiyama Castle Ruins

How to get There

I recommend using a car when you visit the castle ruins because there are few buses to visit them.
It is about a 20-minute drive away from Kofu-minami IC on the Chuo Expressway. There is a parking lot in front of the trail entrance to the castle ruins.
If you want to use public transportation, you can take the Yamanashi-Kotsu Bus bound for Sekisuiji Temple from JR Kofu Station and ride to the end. It takes about 15 minutes on foot from the bus stop to get the entrance.
To get to Kofu Station from Tokyo: Take the limited express Azusa or Kaiji at Shinjuku Station.

The parking lot in front of the trail entrance

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Yogaiyama Castle Part1”
Back to “Yogaiyama Castle Part2”