144.Ogaki Castle Part2

The Main Tower remained, but was burned down, then restored.

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Ogaki Castle was abandoned and almost all the buildings of the castle were demolished. A lot of moats were also reclaimed except the Outer Moat called Suimon-gawa River. They were turned into the city area.

Suimon-gawa River, the former Outer Moat

Only the Main Tower and two turrets at the Main Enclosure remained. Especially, the external design of the Main Tower was used when the Main Tower of Gujo-Hachiman Castle was rebuilt in 1933.

The old photo of the original Main Tower, from the signboard at the site
The rebuilt Main Tower of Gujo-Hachiman Castle

However, those of Ogaki Castle were unfortunately burned down by the Ogaki Air Raid in 1945. After World War II, they were externally restored in 1967 using the design of the original ones and Gujo-Hachiman Castle instead.

The externally restored Main Tower of Ogaki Castle

Features

Around Main Tower as Ogaki Park

The map around the castle

Today, only around the Main and Second Enclosures remained as the Ogaki Park. Part around the Second Enclosure is a normal park and the Main Enclosure has a historical atmosphere. No moats unfortunately remained around the enclosure while the roads around it are probably the former moats.

Ogaki Park
A road around, probably the former moat

It has two gates, the Western Gate was built in the present time, and the Eastern Gate is the original, but was moved from another place which was once called Yanagikuchi-mon Gate. There are also the externally restored Inui and Ushitorra Turrets alongside the gates.

The Western Gate built in the present time
The Eastern Gate, moved from the Yanagikuchi-mon Gate
The externally restored Inui Turret
The externally restored Ushitora Turret

The restored four-level Main Tower is inside the enclosure, which is actually a modern building and used as a historical museum.

The inside of the Main Enclosure
The remaining stone walls of the Main Enclosure

To be continued in “Ogaki Castle Part3”
Back to “Ogaki Castle Part1”

144.大垣城 その2

天守は残っていましたが、焼け落ち、また再建されました。

その後

明治維新後、大垣城は廃城となり、城のほとんどの建物は撤去されました。水門川と呼ばれた外堀を除いては、多くの堀も埋められていきました。市街地となっていったのです。

元外堀であった水門川

本丸にあった天守と2基の櫓だけが残されました。特に天守については、1933年に郡上八幡城の天守が再建された際、大垣城天守が外観の設計に採用されました。

残されていた天守の古写真、現地説明板より
再建された郡上八幡城天守

ところが大垣城の残存建物は、残念ながら1945年の大垣空襲により焼け落ちてしまったのです。第二次世界大戦後の1967年に、これらの建物は外観復元されましたが、オリジナルの建物の設計を使いながらも、今度は逆に、郡上八幡城の外観が参考にされました。

外観復元された現在の大垣城天守

特徴、見どころ

大垣公園となっている天守周辺

城周辺の地図

現在、本丸と二の丸周辺のみが大垣公園として残されています。二の丸周辺の部分はごく普通の公園となっているため、本丸の方が歴史的な雰囲気があります。残念ながら曲輪の周りに堀は残っておらず、周りをめぐっている道路が恐らく以前の堀だったのでしょう。

大垣公園
元は堀であったと思われる周りの道

本丸には2つの門がありますが、西門は現代になって建てられたものです。東門は現存する建物ですが、柳口門として他の場所にあったものがここに移されました。門に並んで、外観復元された戌亥(いぬい)櫓と艮(うしとら)櫓もあります。

現代に建てられた西門
柳口門から移築された東門
外観復元された戌亥櫓
外観復元された艮櫓

本丸の中の方には、復元された4階建ての天守があり、実際には近代的ビルであるため、歴史博物館として使われています。

本丸内部
本丸に残る石垣

「大垣城その3」に続きます。
「大垣城その1」に戻ります。

144.Ogaki Castle Part1

A castle which might have been a crucial battle field

Location and History

Battlefield of Crucial Event

The Battle of Sekigahara have been one of the most crucial events in the Japanese History. The East squad led by Ieyasu Tokugawa and the West squad led by Mitsunari Ishida battled each other at Sekigahara Field in 1600 before the Tokugawa Shogunate was established. Most Japanese people know about Skigahara, but what about Ogaki Castle? In fact, the castle might have become the battle field of the crucial event if the situation changed (if Mitsunari decided to stay in that castle).

The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Mitsunari Ishida、 owned by Hajime Sugiyama (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ogaki Castle as Important Point

Ogaki Castle was located in the western part of Mino Province (now Gifu Prefecture) connecting to western Japan trough Sekigahara. It is uncertain when the castle was first built, but it became important as the country had been unified in the late 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. The ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi said “Ogaki Castle is an important point” and actually sent his relatives to the castle as its lords. The castle was built on a plain land, but surrounded by several moats and rivers, which looked like a Water Castle.

The location of the castle

After Hideyoshi died in 1598, a political conflict began between Ieyasu Tokugawa and Mitsunari Ishida. Mitsunari doubted Ieyasu would take over the power of Hideyoshi’s young son, Hideyori who was still the ruler of Japan. Ieyasu went to eastern Japan to conquer the Uesugi Clan who were against Ieyasu in June 1600. Mitsunari raised an army to defeat Ieyasu in July in western Japan. The East and West squads were expected to fight in central Japan including Ogaki Castle and Sekigahara. Mitsunari stayed in Ogaki Castle as his stronghold and built several battle castles, such as Nangusan Castle, on the mountains behind Ogaki Castle for his allies to stay. He was waiting for Ieyasu’s attack at the castle doing as best as he could. He also built large mountain castles such as Matsuoyama Castle around Sekigahara Field to call for a great warlord, Terumoto Mori and his master, Hideyori to support him. If his plans came true, Ieyasu might have been defeated because Hideyori was still Ieyasu’s master as well.

The portrait of Hideyori Toyotomi, owned by Yogenin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Why did Mitsunari leave Castle?

However, on September 15th, Mitsunari suddenly got away from the castle, fought against Ieyasu at Sekigahara Field, and defeated in a day. Why did Mitsunari cancel his own plan and choose the field battle he probably dislike but Ieyasu was more familiar with? The long-accepted theory says Mitsunari noticed Ieyasu tried to skip Ogaki Castle and attack western Japan directly. Mitsunari and his allies were one jump ahead of Ieyasu, and took up their positions at the field. They fought well in the first part, but finally got defeated by the betrayal of Hideaki Kobayakawa, one of their allies, during the battle. This story is dramatic, so Japanese people believed it for a long time. However, it was first seen in war chronicles in the Edo Period, about 60 years later than the actual battle. I also think the reason above is too weak for Mitsunari to leave the castle.

The portrait of Hideaki Kobayakawa, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Some new studies may tell us the real reasons why Mitsuhide left Ogaki Castle. According to these studies, Hideaki Kobayakawa was expected to support the East quad earlier than what the previous theory says. Hideaki occupied Matsuoyama Castle and moved to Sekigahara Field before the battle against Mitsunari’s plan. If he stayed, he could have been attacked on both sides. Mitsunari might have noticed Hideaki’s movement, so this may be why he quickly moved to Sekigahara to avoid the worst situation. One theory says Mitsunari tried to get to another mountain castle, called Tama Castle, to fight against Ieyasu and Hideaki, but was unfortunately defeated around Sekigahara Field. After the battle, some Mitunari’s retainers still stayed in Ogaki Castle, however, they were outnumbered. They surrendered after being besieged by the East squad for about a week.

The folding screens of the Sekigahara Battle, owned by Sekigahara Town History and Folklore Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ogaki as City of Water

After the Battle of Sekigahara, Ogaki Castle was still recognized as an important point connecting eastern and western Japan. Several different lords governed and improved the castle. For example, the Ishikawa Clan completed the Outer Moat and the Matsudaira Clan renovated the four-level Main Tower. The tower was in the Main Enclosure which is connected with the Second Enclosure where the Main Hall for the lord was. Both enclosures were surrounded by the Inner Moat. Overall, the tripled moats surrounded the castle. In addition, the castle town was consolidated with the castle by waterways and rivers. That’s why Ogaki City has been called The city of water. Since 1635, the Toda Clan governed the castle and the area was called the Ogaki Domain until the end of the Edo Period.

The four-level Main Tower of Ogaki Castle, from the signboard at the site
Part of the illustration of Ogaki Castle in Mino Province, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan
The center of Ogaki Castle, from the illustration above
The statue of Ujikane Toda, the founder of the clan in the Ogaki Domain

To be continued in “Ogaki Castle Part2”