198.Chiran Castle Part2

You can experience a castle on the Shirasu Plateau.

Features

Walking down to Maintain Castle

Today, the ruins of Chiran Castle are accessible either from the Chiran Samurai Residences side at the foot the plateau or from the former Chiran Airport (where Chiran Peace Museum for Kamikaze Pilots is located) side on the plateau. If you choose the latter route, you may get an interesting experience.

The map around the castle, the blue broken line is the route from Chiran Samurai Residences to the castle, and the red broken line is the route from the former Chiran Airport to the castle

When you want to go to a mountain (or hill) castle, you will usually go up or at least go on flat ground close to the castle. However, in the case of the route from the plateau to Chiran Castle, you will go down towards the castle and eventually reach the bottom of the deep dry moats. This is because of the special location and the construction method of this castle on the edge of the plateau. You will also look up at the tall enclosures looking like mountains from the ruins’ entrance which is actually the moat’s bottom.

Chiran Peace Museum for Kamikaze Pilots
The route goes down from around there
The route is going down
Arriving at the past bottom of the moat, the plateau in on the right
The enclosures on the plateau look very tall

Walking on Bottom of Deep Dry Moat

The dry moat is still about 20m deep which was filled in naturally by the collapsing volcanic ash since the period of the castle being active. Visitors first need to walk on the bottom of the moat which was also used as a path in the past. If you walk on the bottom from the entrance, two of the four primary enclosures, the Main and Kuranjo Enclosures are on the right, and the other two enclosures, Imanjo and Yunbajo Enclosures are on the left, as the signposts at the site show.

The map around the castle including the four primary enclosures

The bottom of the dry moat (licensed by PIXTA)
the signpost for Imanjo and Yunbajo Enclosures at the site (licensed by PIXTA)

Protected Route to Enclosure

For example, if you want to go to the Imanjo Enclosure, you need to turn left and go up the path to it. However, the path doesn’t go directly to its entrance. Attackers first need to reach the wall of the enclosure and go along the side to reach it. That means the defenders of the castle would attack enemies from above before they reach the entrance. The entrance also had the defensive Masugata system. The inside of the enclosure is a flat square which has no buildings now, but you can see the earthen square shape of Masugata and earthen walls around.

The layout drawing of Chiran Castle, quoted by Minami-Kyushu City, the route to Imanjo Enclosure (the red arrow) and the counterattack from the enclosure (the blue arrow)

To be continued in “Chiran Castle Part3”
Back to “Chiran Castle Part1”

198.知覧城 その2

シラス台地の城を体感

特徴、見どころ

山城に行くのに下っていく

現在知覧城跡は、台地の麓にある知覧武家屋敷群の側からも、台地上の旧知覧飛行場(現在は知覧特攻平和会館がある所)の側からも行くことができます。もし後者の方を選択した場合には、面白い体験ができるかと思います。

城周辺の地図、青破線は武家屋敷から城へのルート、赤破線は旧知覧飛行場から城へのルート

一般的に山城(丘城)に行く場合には、通常は登って行くか、少なくとも城に近づくまでは平らなところを進んでいきます。ところが、台地から知覧城までにいくルートにおいては、城に向かっていくにつれ道が下っていき、いつの間にか深い空堀の底に到達するのです。これは、この城が台地の端に築かれたという特殊な立地と、築城法によるものです。また、城跡の入口で堀底にあたるところからは、正に山のようにそびえる曲輪群を見上げることになります。

知覧特攻平和会館
ここから下りになります
どんどん下っていきます
かつての堀の底に到着、右側が台地
曲輪がある台地は見上げるような高さです

深い空堀の底を歩く

堀の深さは今でも約20mありますが、城が現役だった時代からは崩れた火山灰により自然に埋められてきてしまっています。ビジターはまず、堀底を歩いていく必要がありますが、過去においても通路として使われていました。入口から堀底を進んでいくと、4つの主要曲輪のうちの2つ、本丸と蔵ノ城(くらんじょう)が右側に、残りの2つ、今城(いまんじょう)と弓場城(ゆんばじょう)が左側に見えてきます。現地にもそのように書いてある案内板があります。

城周辺の地図、4つの主要曲輪

空堀の底 (licensed by PIXTA)
今城、弓場城への案内板 (licensed by PIXTA)

防御が施された曲輪への通路

例えば、今城の方に行く場合には、左の方に曲がり、その曲輪に向かう通路を辿っていきます。しかしその通路は曲輪の入口に単純にダイレクトには通じていません。この曲輪を攻撃すると想定した場合、通路は曲輪の壁部分にぶつかり、壁に沿って回り込んで入口に到達します。つまり、城の守備兵は攻撃側が入口に着く前に頭上から反撃できるわけです。入口にはまた、防御力が強い桝形構造になっていました。曲輪の中は現在では建物がなく、広場になっていますが、土造りの桝形の形や、曲輪を囲む土塁を見学することができます。

南九州市ホームページの知覧城縄張り図に、今城への攻撃想定ルート(赤矢印)と反撃想定方向(青矢印)を追記

「知覧城その3」に続きます。
「知覧城その1」に戻ります。

198.Chiran Castle Part1

This castle was built using features of the Shirasu Plateau

Location and History

Many attractions of Chiran

Chiran area of Minami-Kyushu City in Kagoshima Prefecture has many attractions. First, it is known for Chiran tea leaves, which is planted on Shirasu Plateau enriched with ashes of the volcanic zone in the southern Kyushu Region, largely covering the area. The city recently became the largest producer of Japanese tea in the nation in 2017.

A tea plantation at Minami-Kyushu City   (licensed by Ray_go via Wikimedia Commons)

Second, the area also became popular with its history of the Kamikaze corps of Chiran Airport. The history is kind of a tragedy, however, because it was on a plateau with good wind direction, the area was suitable for building the airport. It had originally been used for the normal Japanese Army air corps practices, but was eventually turned into a base for Kamikaze due to the crucial situation of the final stage of WWII.

The Triangle Barrack of Chiran Airport for Kamikaze pilots

Thirdly, people often visit Chiran Samurai Residences which are located in the plains at the foot of the plateau. The residences have a traditional atmosphere with many gardens and some remaining buildings. Their main street still looks like the original one in the Edo Period. They were originally built in the 17th Century by the Sata Clan which was a relative of the Shimazu Clan, the lord of Satsuma Province including the Chiran area. The Satsuma Domain led by the Shimazu Clan was based in Kagoshima Castle far from Chiran. Other domains at that time usually brought their retainers together in their home base. However, the Satsuma Domain had a unique system called Tojo or the Outer Castles. It refers to the domain sending many of its retainers to their own sites and letting them govern and protect it by themselves. Chiran Samurai Residences were one of the Outer Castles, which was also called Chiran Roku.

The main street of Chiran Samurai Residences  (licensed by Naokijp via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Kagoshima Castle
The miniature model of Izumi Outer Castle, a representative one in the Satsuma Domain, exhibited by the Kagoshima Prefectural Center for Historical Material

Castle is built using Shirasu Plataeu

Finally, Chiran Castle may be less popular than the three attractions above, but the Sata Clan had originally lived in the castle before they were moved to the residences at the foot of the plateau. It was a kind of mountain castle which was a common way to live and protect themselves as warriors until the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. However, the castle was built with a very unique method using the special conditions the Chiran area had. It was located on the edge of the Shirasu Plateau which looks like a cove. A plateau made of volcanic ash is fragile so that its edge can become a cliff. Soil of the plateau is also easy to process, that way, the builders of Chiran Castle made high walls and deep moats easily. As a result, the enclosures of the castle looked like several huge columns at the edge.

The location of the castle

The aerial photo of Chiran Castle Ruins, quoted from the website of Minami-Kyushu City

Chiran Castle had four primary enclosures such as the Main Enclosure in the center and several sub enclosures around. Each enclosure was independent, surrounded by dry moats which were over 25m deep. If enemies wanted to attack the castle even from the plateau which was the same level as the top of the castle, they were prevented by the deep dry moats from attacking directly. They were eventually also counterattacked by the defenders from over 25m above. Some primary enclosures also had artificial defense system for their entrances , called Masugata. It refers to a square space at the entrance, where the route to the inside of the enclosure is not straight intentionally.

The relief map arountd the castle

The layout of Chiran Castle, quoted from the website of Minami-Kyushu City

History of Castle

The castle is said to be first built by the Sata Clan in the 14th Century. After that, the Ijuin Clan took the Chiran area including this castle from the Sata Clan in the 15th Century, but their master, the Shimazu Clan gave it back to the Sata Clan. In 1591, the clan was punished due to being against the Act to Ban Piracy and was banished from the castle again, but came back to the castle in 1610. Finally, the castle was burned down by an accidental fire in the same period and the clan moved to the residences at the foot of the plateau following the domain’s policy. The castle was eventually abandoned. However, the clan seemed to maintain the castle ruins in some ways because ceramic-ware in the Edo Period after the abandonment was found by the excavation team.

The ruins of Chiran Castle

To be continued in “Chiran Castle Part2”