27.Ueda Castle Part1

Ueda Castle, which was located in the current Ueda City in Nagano Prefecture, is very famous because of the Sanada Clan. When the clan owned the castle, they repelled the invasions from the Tokugawa troops twice. However, the castle was destroyed by the Tokugawa Shogunate after the battles. After that, other clans rebuilt and maintained the castle, but they are not popular for the general people. Therefore, this article will describe not only about the Sanada Clan, but also the other clans (Sengoku and Fujii Matsudaira) regarding the castle.

Location and History

Introduction

Ueda Castle, which was located in the current Ueda City in Nagano Prefecture, is very famous because of the Sanada Clan. When the clan owned the castle, they repelled the invasions from the Tokugawa troops twice. However, the castle was destroyed by the Tokugawa Shogunate after the battles. After that, other clans rebuilt and maintained the castle, but they are not popular for the general people. Therefore, this article will describe not only about the Sanada Clan, but also the other clans (Sengoku and Fujii Matsudaira) regarding the castle.

The current Ueda Castle, the entrance of the main enclosure

From building Ueda Castle to the First Battle of Ueda

Masayuki Sanada, who first built the castle, was born in 1547 as the third son of Yukitaka Sanada. Yukitaka was a lord in Shinano Province (the current Nagano Prefecture) and became a senior vassal of Shingen Takeda, one of the greatest warlords at that time. In his later life, Yukitaka invaded the western area of the Kozuke Province (the current Gunma Prefecture). Masayuki eventually followed the invasion after he became the successor of his father. In 1579, he captured Numata Castle, one of the most important points of the province. Masayuki was still one of the Takeda’s retainers, but he behaved as if he was an independent lord.

The portrait of Masayuki Sanada, privately owned (licensed under Public Domain, via Wikimedia Commons)

In 1582, the Takeda Clan, which was Masayuki’s master, was defeated by Nobunaga Oda, who was soon killed in the Honnoji Incident as well. That meant the large territories, which the Takeda Clan owned, became unoccupied area for other great warlords around. The Tokugawa, Hojo, and Uesugi Clans immediately started to invade the area. However, the area included Masayuki’s territories. He first allied with the Uesugi Clan but later on switched to the Hojo Clan, then finally the Tokugawa Clan in order to maintain his territories.

The portrait of Kagekatsu Uesugi who was the lord of the clan at that time, owned by Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Ujimasa Hojo who was the lord of the clan at that time, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, who was the lord of the clan at that time, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

He lived in Toishi Castle which was built on a mountain at the Ueda area. Ueda Castle would be built on a plain land near the mountain castle when Masayuki was at the Tokugawa’s side. This was because this spot was very important for the intersection of roads and Chikuma River. It was also the border of the Tokugawa and the Uesugi Clans. Therefore, the castle would be the strong frontline of the Tokugawa Clan against the Uesugi Clan. Historians speculate that the construction of the castle was completely supported by the Tokugawa Clan. Kagekatsu Uesugi, who was the lord of the clan, ordered his retainers to halt the construction. The Tokugawa Clan also had to protect it.

The ruins of Toishi Castle; Be careful when climbing the stairs because it’s very steep

Even though the castle was built on a plain, it was protected by natural hazards. For example, it had natural steep cliffs to the south, which were created by a branch of the Chikuma River, called “Amagafuchi”. The builders also used other rivers to protect the castle. The flow of Yadesawa River was changed to build the natural outer moat to the north and the west, which faced the Uesugi’s territories. The original flow was used to make inner moats surrounding the castle. The center of the castle on a hill was turned into several enclosures, such as the main and second enclosures. The east of the castle was still waterlogged; however, it was partially used as residential areas. The construction was done between 1583 and 1585. You can see the drawing of the castle during that time, inside the Ueda City Museum.

The current southern side of the castle; The bottom of the castle wall used to be a river, but it is now dry and  used as a walkway that leads to the park
The current Yadesawa River
The ruins of one of the inner moats, called Hyakken-bori
The drawing of the castle during its first stage, exhibited by the Ueda City Museum

Just after the castle was completed, Masayuki switched sides from the Tokugawa to the Uesugi Clan again. This was because Ieyasu Tokugawa, who was the lord of the clan, promised to give the Hojo Clan Kozuke Province in order to make peace. That meant Masayuki would have to give up his Numata Castle in the province. He couldn’t stand giving up the castle. However, this decision caused him to fight against the two great warlords (the Tokugawa and Hojo Clans) at the same time. The Hojo Clan had been wanting to capture Numata Castle for a long time. Ieyasu was also very angry about Msayuki’s decision. Ieyasu expected Masayuki to give up Numata Castle after he had given him Ueda Castle, but this was not the case. Therefore, Ieyasu ordered his retainers to destroy the Sanada Clan, which triggered the first battle of Ueda.

The ruins of Numata Castle

The number of the Tokugawa troops was about 7,000 while that of the Sanada Clan was only 2,000. In addition, Ueda Castle was more vulnerable to the east which faced the Tokugawa’s territories, compared to the other directions. There were only protective fences facing the eastern direction. Masayuki’s plan was to divide his few soldiers between Ueda Castle and other branch castles. He also ordered them to ignore the important defensive lines to the east, Kangawa River and Someya Castle. That meant the Tokugawa troops could easily attack Ueda Castle, and they actually did it. However, many of the Tokugawa soldiers were inexperienced and overconfident. Once the Tokugawa side reached the second enclosure of the castle, the Sanada troops suddenly counterattacked. The Tokugawa Troops were very confused and withdrew but they were blocked by the fences behind them. Miraculously they managed to get to get back to Kangawa river, but the other remaining Sanada troops attacked them. Many of them were killed, which resulted in the Tokugawa’s lost.

The second enclosure of Ueda Castle, which is the current entrance of the castle park
The Kangawa River

This battle would eventually lead to the independence of the Sanada Clan with their honor. This stunt can only be done by Masayuki.

The Castle is improved under the Toyotomi Government until the 2nd Battle of Ueda

Masayuki’s choice after the 1st battle was to try to serve under Hideyoshi Toyotomi who was the new ruler of Japan. Hideyoshi called Masayuki “a man like the two sides of the same coin” and tried to defeat him. However, for some reason, Hideyoshi accepted Masayuki saying in his letter “I’ll forgive you just this time”. Masayuki had to work under Ieyasu again due to Hideyoshi’s order. Ieyasu also accepted the Sanada Clan by marrying Nobuyuki, Masayuki’s son with his adopted daughter. That meant the two biggest lords recognized the strength and threat of the Sanada Clan. This is how the clan became an independent lord family under the Toyotomi government. Numata Castle, one of the most important castles of the clan, was once given to the Hojo Clan by Hideyoshi’s order. However, the castle was soon returned to the Sanada Clan due to the Battle of Odawara, where the Hojo Clan was defeated.

The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ueda Castle was improved as one of the important castles under the Toyotomi government. Some believe that the castle had the main tower during the improvement. However, it is still uncertain as followed.

Supporting opinions:
The rooftiles with golden leaf and grampus rooftiles at that time were excavated from the moats of the main enclosure. Other important castles nearby, using the same or similar rooftiles, had their main towers, such as Matsumoto, Takashima, and Komoro Castles. An old map of Ueda Castle during the Edo Period says there were the ruins of the main tower. Therefore, Ueda Castle must have had its own main tower.

One of the excavated rooftiles with golden leaf, exhibited by the Ueda City Museum
Matsumoto Castle
Takashima Castle
The main tower base of Komoro Castle
The old map including the ruins of the main tower, supported by Ueda City Multimedia Information Center

Opposing opinions:
In the case of Ueda Castle, rooftiles with golden leaf were also excavated at other enclosures aside from the main enclosure. That means main halls or other turrets might have used them. In addition, no trace of the main tower base was ever found in the main enclosure at all. The main tower of Ueda Castle did not necessarily exist.

So far, we can say the castle at least had luxurious buildings in it with these rooftiles. Historians speculate if the castle had the main tower, it was not so large that it might have only been 3 levels.

The castle was also fortified to make its eastern area more defensive. For example, the third enclosure, including the main gate, was built in the area. The castle town was also built outside the enclosure. Many temples gathered in the town because they would become the positions for soldiers when battles happened.

The ruins of the main gate; This modern-day road used to exhibit a Masugata system (a special design that forced enemies to turn at a right angle in order to attack the castle)
Gessoji Temple, which was built outside the castle

After Hideyoshi died, the decisive battles happened in 1600. The Sanada Clan first tried to join Ieyasu Tokugawa’s troops which would be called the Eastern Allies. They were going to the east to destroy the Uesugi Clan which was against Ieyasu. However, once the clan received the letter of impeachment to Ieyasu from the magistrates of the Western Allies, it made their decision tougher. One order was for Nobuyuki to stay with the Eastern allies,while Masayuki and Nobushige, who was Nobuyuki’s little brother, would join the Western Allies. It is thought that this decision came from Masayuki’s experiences so that some of the clan would survive no matter which allies won.

“Inubushi Mitsudan-zu”, the picture showing the secret meeting before their parting, supported by the Ueda City Museum; On the right is Masayuki, on the left are his sons Nobuyuki and Nobushige

Ieyasu went back to the west to destroy the Western Allies through Tokaido Road along the seaside. He also sent about 38,000 soldiers, led by Hidetada Tokugawa, Ieyasu’s successor, through Nakasendo Road along the mountain areas. He then ordered Hidetada to capture Ueda Castle, which Masayuki and Nobushige were holding, on the way to the west. The second battle of Ueda would occur. The number of the soldiers in the castle was only about 3,000, so the plan of Masayuki this time was to delay the Eastern Army as followed.

The Portrait of Hidetada Tokugawa, owned by Saifukuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The timeline of the 2nd battle of Ueda

September 2nd (according to the lunar calendar): Hidetada arrived at Komoro Castle, about 20 km away from Ueda Castle to the west.
September 3rd: Masayuki made an offer to surrender to Hidetada through Nobuyuki.
September 4th: Hidetada went to battle because Masayuki did not do what he had said.
Nobuyuki’s troops went to Toishi Castle which Nobushige held to capture it.
September 5th: Nobushige went back to Ueda Castle without fighting.

Their first battle was on September 6th, but its details are uncertain. This is because some records say it was a skirmish while others say Masayuki’s troops won like he used to do in the first battle of Ueda. At the very least, what I can say for sure is that Hidetada didn’t do a full-scale attack as followed.

September 8th: Hidetada received a letter from Ieyasu, telling Hidetada to immediately leave to go to the west.
September 11th: Hidetada left Komoro Castle for the battlefield to fight against the Western Allies.

As a result, Hidetada spent about 10 precious days without capturing Ueda Castle and was not able to join the battle of Sekigahara on September 15th. Masayuki’s plan was successful again. However, the Eastern Allies won on that day. Masayuki and Nobushige were eventually placed under house arrest at Kudoyama in Kii Province (the current Wakayama Prefecture). Masayuki died there after 11 years, and but Nobushige managed to escape to became famous during the sieges of Osaka Castle between 1614 and 1615.

The portrait of Nobushige Sanada, owned by Ueda City Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ueda Castle finally belonged to Nobuyuki, but the center of the castle was destroyed by the Tokugawa Shogunate. Its moats were buried, and its enclosures were turned into farms. Nobuyuki stayed in his residence at the third enclosure. You can see the drawing of the castle during that time, inside the Ueda City Museum. He was eventually promoted and moved to Matsushiro Castle in 1622.

The portrait of Nobuyuki Sanada, privately owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Matsushiro Castle
The old map showing the buried moats, and the farm which was the former enclosures, exhibited by the Ueda City Museum

Tadamasa Sengoku reconstructs Ueda Castle

Ueda Castle was mostly abandoned before Tadamasa Sengoku came to the castle as the new lord of the Ueda Domain in 1622. He had been the lord of Komoro Castle, so he joined the second battle of Ueda as well. It was said that when he became the lord of Ueda Castle, Hidetada Tokugawa, who was the shogun at that time, told him as followed. “You may reconstruct Ueda Castle however you like as I will pay for the expenses.” Hidetada was the person who suffered from the castle during the second battle of Ueda earlier on. However, it is still a mystery why he was allowed to reconstruct the castle as well as why he was given money for the castle. The reconstruction started in 1626 after it was formally permitted by the Tokugawa Shogunate.

The portrait of Tadamasa Sengoku, owned by the Ueda City Museum (licensed under Public Domain, via Wikimedia Commons)

Tadamasa gave his detailed instructions to the construction builders. According to the instructions, it seemed like he tried to restore the castle during the Sanada’s period. For example, they say that if the moats of the old castle had distortions, he ordered the build to dig to widen the moats than they were in order to make them straight. That meant the layout of the castle would be similar to the old castle. However, the remaining stone walls you see now at the castle were all built by the Sengoku Clan. Part of them, which look very old, might have been built by the Sanada Clan. If so, the Sengoku Clan might also have rebuilt the stone walls by using the old stones.

One of the stone walls which the Sengoku Clan originally built
One of the old stone walls which the Sanada Clan might have originally built

Although the main tower was not built in the main enclosure, the enclosure had seven turrets and two gates along its perimeter. However, it had no buildings in the center, like the main hall. That meant the purpose of the castle was only for reconstruction. Tadamasa planned to construct other buildings in the second enclosure, but it was canceled because of his death in 1628. The structure of the castle, built by Tadamasa, was maintained by the following lords of the Ueda Domain until the end of the Edo Period. You can see the illustration of the castle after the reconstruction, exhibited by National Archives of Japan. So, what did Tadamasa think about Ueda Castle? He might have admired the castle because of the activities of the Sanada Clan.

Part of the illustration of Ueda Castle in Shinano Province, exhibited by National Archives of Japan

The Government under the Fujii Matsudaira Clan

In 1706, Tadachika Matsudaira became the lord of the Ueda Domain in place of the Sengoku Clan. His clan was sometimes referred to as the Fujii Matsudaira Clan in order to classify many Matsudaira Clans. It is one of the 18 Matsudaira which had been the relatives of the shoguns before Ieyasu Tokugawa was born. (In fact, Ieyasu himself was one of them.) The reason for the replacement would be that Tadachika was a close vassal of the 5th shogun, Tsunayoshi Tokugawa. He may have been given a closer territory than that he had had in the Izushi Domain (in the current Hyogo Province) by the shogun. The clan also maintained Ueda Castle and the government which the other clans had made.

The armor Tadachika had, exhibited by the Ueda City Museum

However, the most serious problems for the castle were caused by natural disasters, such as floods, earthquakes, and fires. In 1732 during Tadachika’s son, Tadazane’s period, a heavy flood from Chikuma River destroyed the cliffs of the southern side of the castle. Tadazane had to rebuild stone walls on the cliffs to protect them from the river for the next 4 years. We can still see the stone walls on the cliffs now. The clan also had to repair and maintain other stone walls of the castle many times due to harsh weathers and deteriorations.

The stone walls on the cliffs

Let me introduce Tadakata Matsudaira, the 6th lord of the Fujii-Matsudaira Clan during the end of the Edo Period. He was less popular than other politicians at that time like Masahiro Abe, Masayoshi Hotta and Naosuke Ii. However, he was one of the politicians who devoted themselves to opening the country to other western countries. When he became the lord of the Ueda Domain, the domain often suffered from famines because of the cold weathers. Therefore, he encouraged people to boost the sericultural industry (the process of breeding silkworms in order to produce silk fabrics) which was more stable. These experiences may have led his policy towards opening the country to the western countries. When the U.S. fleet led by Matthew Perry arrived at Japan in 1853, he was a member of the shogun’s council of elders. He insisted that Japan should open the country as well as allow trading with other countries. Masahiro Abe, who was the head of the members, decided to finally open the country. Ater that, Masayoshi Hotta and he negotiated with the U.S. consul, Townsend Harris about the trade treaty. Tadataka insisted again that Japan would immediately conclude the treaty despite not having the proper permission by the emperor, against Masayoshi and Naosuke Ii’s advice who thought they would need the permission. Tadataka strongly believed that the trade with foreign countries must have resulted in the national interests. After he quit the post of the members, he began selling the silk fabrics from his domain by exporting them to the countries.

The armor Tadakata had, exhibited by the Ueda City Museum

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Ueda Castle was eventually abandoned, and its lands and buildings were sold. As a result, the lands became farms. A rich merchant, named Heihachiro Maruyama appeared under such a situation. He earned his money by selling wooden materials and silk, maybe thanks to the policies of Tadakata Matsudaira. He bought the land of the main enclosure and donated it for the shrine which would worship the Fujii- Matsudaira Clan, the former lord family of the castle. The shrine became the current Sanada Shrine in the enclosure, which now worships the Sanada, Sengoku, and Matsudaira Clans. Then, in the second enclosure, there was once a prison and an isolation hospital before Ueda City bought the land back. The city turned the main and second enclosures into Ueda Castle Ruins Park. The park was also designated as a National Historic Site in 1934. As for the castle’s buildings, there was once the only remaining building as the western turret at the site. Other turret buildings, called the northern and southern turrets, were used in the pleasure district of Ueda. When these buildings were going to be sold again, the citizens in Ueda were worried about it. Therefore, they decided to bay the buildings and restored them back to the original positions in 1949. The gate between the turret buildings was restored as well in 1994. The city is now considering restoring the other 4 turret buildings in order to complete the 7 turrets which Tadamasa Sengoku had built for the castle.

The Sanada Shrine; Even though this shrine is called Sanada Shrine, the Sengoku and Matsudaira are worshipped in the same shrine
The remaining western turret
The remaining southern and northern turrets and restored gate
The miniature model of the main enclosure with the 7 turrets

To be continued in “Ueda Castle Part2”

27.上田城 その1

上田城を築いた真田昌幸は、真田幸隆の三男として生まれました。昌幸は、当初信玄に近臣として仕え、信玄・幸隆が亡くなり、長篠の戦いで兄たちが討たれると、真田家を継ぎました。

立地と歴史

上田城築城と第一次上田合戦

上田城を築いた真田昌幸(生年:1547年〜没年:1611年)は、真田幸隆(幸綱)の三男として生まれました。父親の幸隆は、信濃国真田郷の小豪族でしたが、武田信玄に仕え、重臣の一人となりました。特に調略を得意とし、後半生は武田氏の西上野での領土拡大に貢献しました(岩櫃城など)。昌幸は、当初信玄に近臣(武藤喜兵衛と名乗っていた)として仕え、信玄・幸隆が亡くなり、長篠の戦いで兄たち(信綱・昌輝)が討たれると、真田家を継ぎました。昌幸は、西上野の攻略を進め、1579年(天正7年)には沼田城を落としました。この城が、後の真田氏による領土経営のキースポットになります。彼は武田氏の一部将でしたが、一定程度の領土経営権を与えられていたと言われています。

真田昌幸像、個人蔵 (licensed under Public Domain, via Wikimedia Commons)

やがて主君の武田氏が滅亡し、武田氏を滅ぼした織田信長が本能寺の変で討たれると、旧武田領(甲斐・信濃・西上野)は空白地帯となり、周辺有力大名(徳川・北条・上杉)による争奪戦が起こります(1982年(天正10年)の天正壬午の乱)。上田周辺から沼田までの一帯を勢力圏としていた昌幸は、有利な条件(領土維持)を求め、上杉→北条→徳川と、次々に傘下となる大名を変えていきます。

上杉景勝肖像画、上杉神社蔵、江戸時代 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
北条氏政肖像画、小田原城蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
徳川家康肖像画、加納探幽筆、大阪城天守閣蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

当時、昌幸は山城の砥石城(またはその周辺の館)を本拠にしていたと考えられますが、徳川傘下にいたときに築いたのが上田城でした。上田の地は、徳川・上杉勢力圏の境目にあたり、街道(上州街道・北国街道)と千曲川が交わる地点で、徳川方として確保が必要な場所でした。つまりこの城は、徳川方が上杉方に対抗するために築かれたのです。従って、築城にあたっては、徳川方の全面支援があったと考えられています。平地での築城なので、上杉方からの妨害も受けやすく、築城時の安全確保の必要もありました(下記補足1)。

(補足1)海津よりの注進の如くんば、真田、海士淵(あまがふち)取り立つるの由に候条、追い払ふべきの由、何れへも申し遣はし候(天正十一年四月十三日島津左京亮宛上杉景勝書状「上杉年譜」)

戸石城跡

平地の城であっても、自然の要害を生かして築かれました。城の南側は、千曲川の支流が流れ「尼ヶ淵」と呼ばれていて、切り立った崖になっていました。北や西から攻めてくる上杉方に対して、後ろ堅固の城であったと言えます。その北側と西側は、川(矢出沢川・蛭沢川)の流路を変え、元の流路を堀に活用し、新流路を惣堀として、備えとしました。城の中心部分は、かつて他の豪族(小泉氏)の城館として使われていた微高地を利用し、西から小泉曲輪・本丸・二の丸を並べました(梯郭式)。更に東側は沼沢地でしたが、その合間に昌幸や一族の屋敷地(中屋敷、常田屋敷、玄三屋敷)が作られました。築城は、1583年(天正11年)に始まり、2年後に完成したとされています。その頃の城の姿を表すとされる絵図(「天正年間上田古図」)が残されています。

城の南側の崖部分(かつての尼ヶ淵)
惣堀として使われた現在の矢出沢川
堀の一つ、百間堀跡
「天正年間上田古図」、上田市立博物館にて展示

ところが、昌幸は城が完成した時期に、徳川方から上杉方に鞍替えをします。これは、徳川家康が北条氏との和睦の条件として、上野国を北条の領国として認めたことによります。これは真田が沼田を失うことを意味していました。替地も明確でなかったようです(諸説あり)。昌幸はこれを拒否しました(下記補足2)。並みの地方領主だったら飲んだのでしょうが、昌幸は自分が切り取った領土にこだわったのです。上杉の支援があるとはいえ、北条(沼田への攻撃)・徳川双方を敵に回す決断でした。(ただし、上杉のバックにいた豊臣秀吉の存在を考慮したという指摘もあります)家康は激怒し、真田討伐を命じました(下記補足3)。これが第一次上田合戦です(天正13年7月〜11月)。

(補足2)
三河物語
ぬまた(沼田)を小田原(北条)へ渡せと仰せになったところ、さなだ(真田昌幸)は、ぬまたの城は上様よりいただいたものではなく、我らの手柄で取り立取った城なので筋違いの話です(訳:代替案のための弁証法的空間)

(補足3)敵幸ひの所へ引き出し候はば、この度根切り緊要に候(八月二十日徳川家康書状、「宮下家文書」)

沼田城跡

鳥居元忠、大久保忠世らに率いられた約7千の徳川勢に対し、真田勢はわずか約2000人でした。しかも、上田城は対上杉用に築かれた城なので、東側(甲斐)から攻めてくる敵(徳川勢)は想定外でした。そのとき昌幸がとった戦術は、少ない兵を更に分散させて配置することでした。昌幸本人は上田城に、長男の信之(当時は「信幸」)は砥石城に、残りを他の城や伏兵として布陣したのです。そして、敵の正面(東側)に対する防御(神川・染谷城)を事実上放棄し、わざと攻めやすくさせたのです。徳川勢は、数は多いが寄せ集めで、真田勢を見下していたとも言われています。城の東側の神川を越え、中間の沼沢地や障害物(千鳥掛け柵)を通り、一気に二の丸まで攻め寄せました。勢いで敵の統制が緩む隙をついて、真田勢は反撃に移り、砥石城の部隊も加わりました。徳川勢は退却しますが、真田勢の追撃を受け、神川付近で多くの兵士を失いました(1300人、下記補足4)。その後、徳川勢は攻め口を変えますが、戦線が膠着し、ついには撤退しました。この戦いは、真田の独立大名として道を開くとともに、その名を天下に知らしめました。昌幸だからこそできた離れ業と言えるでしょう。

(補足4)
沼田城重臣宛信幸返書
芳札披見、仍従遠州出張候間、去二日於国分寺遂一戦
千三百余討捕備存分に候、然者南衆(北条方)其表可相働候、
於然堅固之備憑入候 恐々謹言
閏八月十二日    真田源三郎  信幸 判
 下豊(下沼田豊前守)、恩伊(恩田伊賀守)、木甚、恩越、發参
去る二日国分寺において一戦を遂げ、千三百余り討ち取り、備へ存分に任せ候
芳しい書状を拝見した 遠州より徳川勢が攻めて来たが、去る2日国分寺に於いて一戦し、1300人余り討ち取り備えは十分である。そこで、北条方がそちらに攻めて来るに違いないので、堅固の備えを頼み入る(「恩田家文書」、訳:おぎはらの洋ラン日記)

上田城二の丸
神川

豊臣大名の城に、そして第二次上田合戦

その後、昌幸が選んだ道は、豊臣秀吉への服従でした。秀吉は昌幸を「表裏比興の者(表と裏を使い分けるくせもの)」と呼び、一時討伐を決意しましたが許しました(下記補足5)。昌幸は、家康の与力大名となりますが、家康もまた、信幸を重臣の本多忠勝の娘(小松姫、形式上は家康の養女)の婿としたのです。こうして真田は豊臣政権下の大名となったのです。秀吉の天下統一の過程で、一時沼田城は北条のものとなりますが、小田原合戦の結果、真田の下に戻ってきました。

(補足5)
真田の事、先度この方において仰せ出し候如く、表裏比興の者に候間、成敗を加へらるべき旨仰せ出され候間、定めて家康人数相動くべく候条、その方より一切に見続等これあるまじきの由に候。(八月三日上杉景勝宛増田長盛・石田三成書状「上杉家記」)

天正十四年(一五八六)十一月二十一日付 真田昌幸宛羽柴秀吉書状(真田宝物館蔵)其の方事、家康存分これ有りと雖(いえど)も、此方(こなた)に於いて直(じき)に仰せ聞けられ候。殿下も曲事に思し召し候と雖も、此の度の儀は相免ぜられ候条、其の意を成し、早々罷り上るべく候。猶、様子仰せ含めらるべく候。委細尾藤左衛門尉申すべく候也。
   十一月二十一日(朱印)(羽柴秀吉)
     真田安房守とのへ
家康がお前を恨んでいる件については、自分から直接言い聞かせてやった、自分もけしからぬことだとは思うが、今度だけは許してやるので上洛するように(訳:秀吉と真田)

豊臣秀吉肖像画、加納光信筆、高台寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

上田城は豊臣大名の城として、改修が進められました。第一次上田合戦のときには「殿守(天守)も無き小城」であったとされていますが、この改修で天守が建てられたのではないかとも言われています。現在の本丸堀などから、金箔瓦や鯱瓦が発掘されています。近隣で同様のものが使われた松本城高島城小諸城には天守がありました。また、江戸時代に作られた城の絵図(「上田城構之図」)には「御天守跡」という記載があります。一方で、金箔瓦は本丸以外(二の丸や小泉曲輪)でも発見されているので、天守以外で使われていたともいえます。また、天守があった可能性がある本丸北西隅には、天守台石垣の痕跡がないことから、否定する向きもあります。天守があったとしても、三層程度だったであろうという意見もあります。いずれにせよ、初期とは全く違う豪華な櫓や門を備えた城になっていたとは言えるでしょう。

発掘された金箔瓦の一つ、上田市立博物館にて展示
松本城
高島城
小諸城跡の天守台石垣
「御天守跡」の記載がある古地図「上田城構之図」部分、協力:上田市マルチメディア情報センター

また、弱点だった東側については、三の丸や大手門が整備され、城下町に寺町を作り、防御を固めたと考えられています。

三の丸の大手門跡
集められた寺の一つ、月窓寺

そして秀吉が亡くなると、運命の天下分け目の戦い(1600年(慶長5年))を迎えます。真田勢は当初、家康の上杉征伐に加わるべく行動していましたが、西軍奉行からの家康弾劾の書状(下記補足6)を受け取り、昌幸・次男の信繁(幸村)は西軍に、信幸は東軍に味方(下記補足7)することにしたのです(犬伏の別れ)。これは、個々の立場に基づくものとも言えますが、昌幸がこれまで見てきた大名家の存亡から、真田家を残すための決断であったと思われます。

(補足6)
慶長五年(一六〇〇)七月十七日付 真田昌幸宛長束正家等連署状
 急度(きっと)申し入れ候。今度景勝発向の儀、内府公上巻の誓紙并びに大閤様御置目に背かれ、秀頼様見捨てられ出馬候間、各(おのおの)申し談じ、楯鉾(たてほこ)に及び候。内府公(家康)御違ひの条々別紙に相見え候。此の旨尤もと思し召し、大閤様御恩賞を相忘られず候はば、秀頼様へ御忠節有るべく候。恐々謹言。
   七月十七日 長大(長束大蔵大輔)正家(花押)
         増右(増田右衛門尉)長盛(花押)
         徳善(前田徳善院) 玄以(黒印)
     真田安房守殿 御宿所

(補足7)
慶長五年(一六〇〇)七月二十四日 真田信幸宛徳川家康書状(真田宝物館蔵)
今度安房守(あわのかみ)(昌幸)罷り帰られ候処、日比(ひごろ)の儀を相違(たが)へず、立たれ候事寄特千万に候。猶本多佐渡守(正信)申すべく候間、具(つぶさ)にする能はず候。恐々謹言。
   七月二十四日 家康(花押)
     真田伊豆守殿

「犬伏密談図」、協力:上田市立博物館

石田三成らの西軍決起を知った家康以下東軍は、上杉征伐から引き返し、西に向かいました。その内、家康の跡継ぎ・秀忠率いる3万8千の徳川本体は、中山道を進みました(下記補足8)。その途上で、昌幸のこもる上田城を攻略することにしました。周辺で唯一西軍に組している有力大名だったからです。3千名程度といわれる上田勢は、今度は時間稼ぎの戦術に出ました。

(補足8)いよいよ真田安房守敵対申す由、中納言(秀忠)追々進発せしめ候。その方落ち度無き様、取り合ひの儀頼み入り候。もし大敵に及び候はば、この方へ注進これあるべく候。出馬、即時に踏みつぶし申すべく候(八月十三日仙石久秀宛徳川家康書状、「改撰仙石家譜」)

(慶長5年)
9月2日:秀忠、小諸城に到着(「但馬出石仙石家譜」)
9月3日:昌幸、信幸を通して秀忠に助命を嘆願(「佐竹家文書」)
9月4日:昌幸が降参しないので、秀忠が染屋台に本陣を進め、信幸の軍が、信繁が籠る砥石城に攻撃に向かう
9月5日:信繁が上田城に撤収、昌幸は降伏勧告に応じず
9月6日:徳川軍が稲の刈り取りをしようとしたところ、阻止する城兵と戦闘となり、大手門まで追うが、命令により撤収
     (「寛永諸家家系図伝」など徳川方史料)
9月8日:秀忠に、家康からの上洛命令が届く(下記補足9)
9月11日:秀忠、小諸城から出発(下記補足10)

(補足9)
わざわざ使者を以って申し入れ候、よって内府より急ぎ上洛せしむべき由申し越され候間、先ず先ず明日小諸まで罷り越し候。
その表万事油断なきの様、いよいよ仰せ付けられるべきの儀、肝要に存じ候。
なほ口上に申し含め候の条、詳にする能わず候。
恐々謹言。
         江戸中納言 秀忠御判
九月八日 羽柴右近殿 御陣所
(森家先代実録、信濃史料巻十八、長野県立歴史館アーカイブより)

(補足10)一書令啓上候、然者、黄門様(秀忠)十一日ニ小諸を御出、
九月廿三日 青常陸介 内修理亮 酒右京太夫
石田様
(堀文書、信濃史料巻十八、長野県立歴史館アーカイブより)

9月6日に戦闘がありましたが、小競り合いだったという説や、徳川方がまた大損害を受けたという説もあり、はっきりしません。
明確に言えるのは、
・秀忠軍は約10日間を費やしたが、上田城を攻略できなかった。
・総攻撃を行わず、家康の指示により関ヶ原に向かった。
・結果的に9月15日の関ヶ原の戦いに間に合わなかった。

徳川秀忠肖像画、西福寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

昌幸は、秀忠軍の足止めに成功したのです。しかし、関ヶ原ではわずか一日の戦いで東軍が西軍に勝利し、まもなく上田城は接収されました。信幸などによる助命嘆願の結果、昌幸・信繁は、一命を取り留め、紀伊国九度山に配流となります。昌幸は、いつか罪を許されることを期待していましたが、11年後に亡くなりました。信繁がその後、大坂の陣で活躍することは余りにも有名です。

真田信繫肖像画、上田市立博物館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

上田は信幸の領地となりましたが、城は破却され、中心部は埋められました。信幸は、三の丸の屋敷で政務を執っていたのです。大坂の陣後の1622年(元和8年)には、松代城へ加増転封になりました。

真田信之肖像画、個人蔵 (licensed under Public Domain, via Wikimedia Commons)
松代譲
「元和年間上田城図」、上田市立博物館にて展示

仙石忠政による上田城復興

廃城同然となっていた上田城を復興したのは、真田信之に代わって藩主となった、仙石忠政(生年:1578年〜没年:1628年)でした。彼はそれまで小諸藩主で、第二次上田合戦のときには父親の仙石久秀とともに参陣していました。久秀は、信長・秀吉に仕えた武将で、家紋は信長より拝領したものと言われています。忠政は久秀の三男でしたが、長男(久忠)は検校(盲目)、次男(久範)は関ヶ原で西軍に加わったため、跡継ぎとなりました。忠政は1622年(元和8年)に藩主となり、1626年(寛永3年)から幕府の許可を得て、上田城の復興に取りかかります。このときの将軍は家光でしたが、秀忠も大御所として健在でした。忠政を移したときに将軍だった秀忠は、修理料として銀子を与えたと言われています(補足11)。自らを含め二度も徳川軍を退けた上田城を、どのように見ていたのでしょうか。

(補足11)上田城は先年破却せしままなれば、修理の料として銀子二百貫目を賜うべし、心のままに修理すべき旨、懇の命(「改撰仙石家譜」)

仙石忠政肖像画、上田市立博物館蔵 (licensed under Public Domain, via Wikimedia Commons)

忠政は、家臣に復興工事に関する細かい指示書を出していて、復興への熱意を感じさせます。それによると、真田時代の城の姿の復元を目指していたことが伺えます(下記補足12)。埋められた堀を、掘り返していることから、少なくともレイアウトは真田時代を踏襲したと考えられます。現在、門や櫓のところに残る石垣は、そのときに築かれましたが、一部の古い形式の石垣は、真田時代のものか、その時代の石を転用した可能性があります。

(補足12)なわばりの時、古城の堀にゆがみがあるときには堀の両側を掘って直にせよ(「寛永三年仙石忠政築城覚書」、訳は「信濃上田城」による)

忠政が築造した二の丸北虎口石垣
真田時代に遡る可能性がある本丸西虎口土橋下南石垣

そして本丸には、天守はないものの、七つの櫓と、二つの櫓門を建設しました(内部の御殿はなし)。二の丸などにも建物を建てる計画でしたが、工事開始から2年後に忠政が亡くなり中断されました。以後、基本的な城の構造は、忠政が復興したものが引き継がれました。復興後の姿が、信州上田城絵図(正保城絵図)として残されています。現在の残る城跡の基にもなっています。中断したとはいえ、わずか2年で城を復興した忠政にとって、上田城はどういう存在だったのでしょうか。

「信濃国上田城絵図」部分、出展:国立公文書館

仙石氏は3代84年間、上田を統治しました。

藤井松平氏による統治

1706年(宝永3年)但馬出石藩主の松平忠周(ただちか)が、仙石氏と交代で上田藩主になりました。この家系は藤井松平氏と呼ばれていて、家康以前からの松平一族でした(いわゆる「十八松平」の一つ)。忠周は当時、将軍徳川綱吉に側用人として仕えていました。幕府中枢にいたため、より江戸に近い領地に転封になったと見られています。彼は、徳川吉宗政権でも老中を務めました。藤井松平氏は基本的に、仙石氏が復興した上田城や藩の仕組みを維持しました。

松平忠周所用具足、上田市立博物館にて展示

しかし、この時代の上田城の敵は天災(洪水、地震、大火)でした。特に、忠周の子の忠愛(ただざね)の代には、1732年(享保17年)の千曲川洪水により、城の南の崖が大きく崩壊しました。その後4年をかけて、石垣の修築・造成が行われました。主にこの時に築かれた崖を覆う石垣は、現在目にすることができます。以降、経年劣化や大雨により破損した石垣の修理が幕末まで6回行われました(幕府への届出記録による)。

尼ヶ淵に面する石垣

藤井松平家の藩主の中から、幕末に活躍した松平忠固(ただかた)を紹介したいと思います(生年:1812年~没年:1859年)。幕末の政治家の中では有名な方ではありませんが、日本の開国に尽くした人物の一人です。藩主になったとき(1830年)上田で凶作が続き、対策として養蚕を奨励したのが後の開国政策につながったのかもしれません。ペリーが来航した時老中になっていた忠固は、当初より開国だけでなく、通商開始も主張し、徳川斉昭と渡り合いました。また、アメリカの総領事ハリスと通商条約の交渉を行ったときに、忠固は、堀田正睦に次ぐ次席の老中でした(正睦が首相兼外務大臣とすれば、忠固は財務大臣)。条約調印のときも、勅許が必要とする正睦や井伊直弼に対し、必要なしと主張していました。彼には開国・通商が日本の国益になると確信していたのです(補足13)。条約が調印されると、直弼により、正睦とともに罷免されてしまいますが(1858年)、翌年に亡くなるまで上田の物産(生糸など)輸出の準備のために働いていました。

(補足13)交易は世界の通道なり、決して忌むべきの事にあらず、寧ろ之を盛んにするを要す、即ち皇国の前途亦宜しく交易に依りて大に隆盛を図るべきなり。(忠固の言葉とされるもの、「日本を開国させた男、松平忠固」より)

松平忠固所用具足、上田市立博物館にて展示

その後

明治維新後、上田城は廃城となり、城の建物と土地は競売にかけられました。その結果、城地の多くは桑園や麦畑になったそうです。そこに現れたのが地元の豪商・丸山平八郎でした。彼は材木・生糸などで富を築いていて、本丸部分を買い上げ、最後の城主だった松平氏を祀る松平神社の用地として寄付しました。その後この神社には、真田氏や仙石氏も合祀され、現在の真田神社になっています。また二の丸部分には、刑務所や伝染病院があった時期がありましたが、上田市が買い上げ、城跡全体が公園として活用され、国史跡にも指定されました(1934年、昭和9年)。建物については、城に唯一残っていたが西櫓でした。他の櫓のうち、北櫓・南櫓は遊郭で使われていましたが、転売されそうになり、それを憂えた地元の人たちが買い戻し、原位置に移築復元しました(1949年、昭和24年)。両櫓をつなぐ本丸東虎口櫓門は1994年(平成6「年)に復元されました。現在上田市では、本丸にあった7つの櫓全てを元通りに再建することを目指して活動しています。

真田神社
現存する西櫓
現存する南櫓・北櫓と、その間の復元された本丸東虎口櫓門
7つの櫓が揃った上田城本丸の模型、上田市立博物館にて展示

「上田城その2」に続きます。

今回の内容を趣向を変えて、Youtube にも投稿しました。よろしかったらご覧ください。

205.Matsuoyama Castle Part2

This article will describe how we visit the ruins of the encampments for the battle of Sekigahara (mainly of the Western Allies). We will finally go to the ruins of Matsuoyama Castle where Hideaki Kobayakawa was positioned.

Features

Introduction

This article will describe how we visit the ruins of the encampments for the battle of Sekigahara (mainly of the Western Allies). We will finally go to the ruins of Matsuoyama Castle where Hideaki Kobayakawa was positioned. In addition, as for the encampments of the Western Allies, we will visit them not only based on the defacto theory but also based on the new theories. Ogaki Castle may be a good starting point because the battle happened just after Mitsunari Ishida left the castle. You can see some exhibitions of him and the Sekigahara Battle in its restored main tower which has become a historical museum. Sekigahara Station is just few minutes from Ogaki Station.

The current Ogaki Castle
An example of its exhibitions inside
Sekigahara Station

Tour to Encampments of Western Allies based on Defacto Theory

It will be easy for visitors to visit the encampments based on the defacto theory because there are lots of information boards (also written in English). “Sekigahara Historical Landmark Tour” map, provided by the Sekigahara tourist association secretariat, will also help you. The following link is available in English.
(https://www.sekigahara1600.com/download/file/20200109155151.pdf)
So, let us first go to the encampment of Mitsunari Ishida on Sasaoyama Mountain, based on the defacto theory.

An example of the information boards

It may be better to go towards the Battle Site Memorial before reaching the mountain because you can find it easily. You can see the mountain where the flag of Mitsunari’s encampment stands.

The Battle Site Memorial, The flag on the right is Ieyasu’s family crest, while the flag on the left is Mitsunari’s family crest
Sasaoyama Mountain seen from the Battle Site Memorial, Notice the tiny white flags on the mountain

If you reach the foot of the mountain, you will eventually see that it was the encampment of Shima Sakon who was Mitsunari’s senior vassal. In fact, there is no evidence which proves that the mountain was certainly their encampments. The current historical sites were designated by the officials during the Meiji Era, probably based on the local traditions of the Edo Period. However, the top of the mountain looks suitable for the stronghold. You can see a panoramic view from the top, including Nangusan Mountain on the left, where Hiroie Kikkawa was positioned, and Matsuoyama Mountain on the right, where Hideaki was positioned. If Mitsunari would have been on the top, he would have been able to see any suspicious actions by the lord.

The encampment of Shima Sakon
The entrance to Mitsnari’s encampment
The stone monument of Mitsnari’s encampment
The view from the mountain, The mountain on left is Nangusan and the mountain on the right is Matsouyama

Our next target will be the grave site of Yoshitsugu Otani, after passing the encampments of other lords of the Western Allies, such as Yoshihiro Shimazu, Yukinaga Konishi, and Hideie Ukita. You need to walk for few kilometers to reach the target. However, some soldiers who joined the battle testified that the lords were positioned together in the range of only few hundreds of meters. This is another mystery that his often debated by historians and experts.

The encampment of Yoshihiro Shimazu
The encampment of Yukinaga Konishi
The encampment of Hideie Ukita

You will eventually enter the Yamanaka area (which directly means “mountain area”), not like the Sekigahara field. There are actually some ruins of encampments, made by soil, which Yoshitsugu might have built. His grave is in the area, which is said that his retainer originally buried his head there. Takatora Todo, who had been his enemy, heard about it and developed the grave as we can see now. There are always offerings (such as flowers) in front of the grave, from his fans. This is probably because of his episodes in the battle. Yoshitsugu joined the Western Allies because of his friendship with Mitsunari but was defeated by the betrayal of Hideaki (according to the defacto theory).

The grave site of Yoshitsugu Otani

Tour to the Encampments of the Western Allies based on New Theories

Let us next go to the encampment of Yoshitsugu Otani from his grave nearby.
His encampment has been designated based on the defacto theory while a new theory says it was, in fact, that of the Shimazu troops. By the way, there is the view spot of Matsuoyama Mountain near the encampment as well. You can see the flag of Hideaki’s encampment from that spot. I think the view is one of the reasons why Yoshitsugu’s encampment was designated nearby in the defacto theory. The theory says Yoshitsugu was positioned in order to better monitor the betrayal of Hideaki. On the other hand, in the new theory, Yoshitsugu was actually in the Sekigahara field, so another lord was expected to use the encampment instead of him.

The encampment of Yoshitsugu Otani
The view spot of Matsuoyama Mountain
The flag of the encampment of Hideaki Kobayakawa on Matsuoyama Mountain, seen from the view spot

We will next go to the encampment of Mitsunari Ishida, based on the new theory, after climbing down the mountain area. If you walk on the Old Nakasendo Road, you will eventually see a hill up ahead, which is the encampment, called “Jigai-ga-oka”. The hill is also a historical site of Jinshin War during the Ancient Time, called “Jigai-mine-no-sanbon-sugi” which means “The three cedars on Suicide Hill”. A tradition says as followed:
Prince Otomo was defeated by Prince Oama during the war and killed himself in another place. People around the hill, who loved him, got his head and buried in the hill. The three cedars are said to be the mark, which you can visit and see.

Jigai-ga-oka Hill
The three cedars on Suicide Hill, The two remaining cedar trees are not accessible however, because they have a chain fence around them

There is one more spot regarding both the Sekigahara Battle and the Jinshin War, after going on the road over Fujikogawa River. You can find Fuwanoseki Museum, which are the ruins of Fuwanoseki (which means Fuwa Gateway). The new theory says this spot was the encampment of Yoshitsugu Otani. In the Jinshin War, the gateway was the border between the forces of Otomo (the west) and Oama (the east). In the Sekigahara Battle, Sekigahara (which directly means “gateway field”) was that of the Western and Eastern Allies.

Fujikogawa River in the front and Fuwanoseki Museum on the hill in the back
The Fuwanoseki Museum as the ruins of Fuwa Gateway, which might have also been the encampment of Yoshitsugu Otani, The white flag says “Fuwa Gate” while the red flag says “Jinshin War”

We will get closer to Matsuoyama Mountain. There are lots of flags of the Kobayakawa Clan at its entrance. It has a nice atmosphere.

The entrance to Matsuoyama Mountain as the encampment of Hideaki Kobayakawa, The yellow flags show the family crest of Kobayakawa. The 4 flags on the left show two sickles crossing each other.

Going to Matsuoyama Mountain

Matsuoyama Mountain is 293m above sea level and about 200m above the foot of the mountain. If you drive your car, you can park it at the foot. The trail to the top is part of Tokai Natural Trail, which has been well developed. The number of Hideaki’s troops were said to be about 8,000 to 15,000. They were probably stationed from the foot all the way to the top. If the Toi-deppo story is true, the soldiers at the foot would have been able to hear it.

The starting point of the trail, Notice the basket of sticks which is free for visitors to use.  Make sure you return it to the original basket after using it
The trail at the foot

Matsuoyama Castle is often called the encampment of Hideaki Kobayakawa, in fact, it was a full-scale castle. It had the main enclosure on the top and several other enclosures on its ridges. They were surrounded by earthen walls one by one and were divided by dry moats from each other. It also had ditches on the ridges and vertical moats on the slopes in order to prevent enemies from invading it. The castle was mostly fortified by the Western Allies just before the Sekigahara Battle. It was done using natural terrain and construction with soil.

The diorama of Matsuoyama Castle, exhibited by Sekigahara Town History
& Folklore Museum

The trail looks like a well-developed forest road before turning into a fork. There is a sign which says 850m to the top. As you get close to the top, the trail goes beside a ridge which was the eastern enclosure of the castle. If you were an enemy back then, you would have been attacked by the defenders above.

Turn right, at the flag, Notice the drain on the road.  When it rains, the water flows down the mountain, and goes to the drains
850m to the top
The trail goes beside the eastern enclosure

You will eventually see several flags standing on the main enclosure of the top above. One of them is that of Hideaki Kobayakawa’s encampment, which you saw from the view spot of Matsuoyama Mountain. The view from the top is so nice that you will be encouraged to stop and stare for a while. It would have been the view of Kobayakawa according to the defacto theory.

The top will be soon
The main enclosure on the top
The flag of the encampment of Hideaki Kobayakawa
The view of the Sekigahara field from the top of Matsuoyama Mountain, It would have been great if the town decided to cut the trees so that viewers could get a better view of Sekigahara Field

Is it a Castle or is it an Encampment?

Let us check out if Matsuoyama Castle is worth for a full-scale castle at the site. In fact, the opposite side of the trail we climbed looks more fortified, according to the pamphlet of Matsuoyama Castle. (unfortunately, the pamphlet is only available in Japanese)
We will enter the castle from the side.

The layout of the castle (from the pamphlet of Matsuoyama Castle), we first came from above

The path of the entrance gets narrower by being cut by the ditches on both sides. You will next pass an enclosure like a position, which is called the enclosure like Umadashi (the position which sticks out from the gate).

The narrow entrance
The enclosure like Umadashi

The path gets narrower again and wind towards the main enclosure. The entrance of the main enclosure is a square, surrounded by earthen walls, which is generally called Masugata. The route you walked on right now may be the front of the castle, where Hideaki might have also been at.

The path becomes narrow again
The path goes close to the main enclosure, Notice the wooden steps that were added later on by the town
The Masugata system at the entrance of the enclosure

You can also walk down to the dry moats surrounding the main enclosure, from the front of the Masugata system. You will see the vertical cliffs on the slopes of the enclosure, which were artificially cut for defense, on the way to the moats. The bottom of the moats looks spacious tough it is covered with trees and grass now. Historians speculate that it was used as passages or stations for soldiers. The moats also have earthen walls like normal enclosures have.

Going down to the dry moats
The vertical cliffs, Notice the narrow road partially covered in plants.  On the right, is the artificially cut soil, in order ot make the slope steeper for the enemies
The bottom of the moat
The earthen walls on the moat, Notice the sign in Japanese saying “altered earthen walls”

Finally, we will climb another enclosure on a hill, the opposite of the main enclosure. The top of the enclosure is leveled, probably in order to accommodate soldiers in the past. Overall, Matsuoyama Castle must have been a large basement for the Sekigahara Battle. I have confirmed that it was not only a simple encampment but also a full-scale castle.

Climbing the slope to another enclosure
The top of the enclosure

My Impression

After visiting the Sekigahara area, I think it still has a mysterious vibe and can accept adventurous spirits with many theories. In addition, I also learned that the area has a long history including the gateway and battle between eastern and western Japan since the ancient time. In fact, the battle between them still continues today in the category of noodles. You can buy two types of instant noodles for eastern and western Japan there at the souvenir shop. Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum is a very popular spot for visitors where you can learn about the battle and buy other souvenirs. You can also get Goshuin stamps (you can stamp a piece of paper to commemorate your experience) of the encampments you visited there; However, you will need to show the pictures to the counter staff as evidence.

The Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum
The two types of instant noodles for eastern and western Japan, The left is the “western type” while the one on the right is the “eastern type”.
The Goshuin stamps for three encampments, The left is the grave of Otani, the center represents Matsuoyama Mountain, and finally the one the right is Sasaoyama

That’s all. Thank you.

Back to “Matsuoyama Castle Part1”

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