37.一乗谷城 その2

中世都市を想像し、また実際に見ることができます。

特徴、見どころ

どこまでも続く遺跡群

車でも、歩いてでも谷に沿って一乗谷城跡を訪れたなら、道の両側にどこまでも続くような住居跡を目にしてきっと驚かれることでしょう。この地域の278ヘクタールもの範囲が、一乗谷朝倉氏遺跡として国の特別史跡に指定されています。また、この遺跡から発掘された2,300を超える遺物が重要文化財に指定されています。

城周辺の航空写真

谷沿いに広がる遺跡群
城下町の遺跡

遺跡の両端では、城戸跡も見学することができます。下城戸跡には、巨石を使った食い違いの入口が今に残っています。この入口は、まさに城門そのものです。上城戸は、1990年に復元されており、全長105m、高さ5mの土塁となっています。

下城戸跡
巨石を使った食い違い入口
復元された上城戸

戦国時代の町並を復原

発掘の成果により、遺跡の中心部では約200mに渡って当時の町並が復原されています。その町並の通りに立ってみると、本物の中世都市にいるような感じがします。

復原町並

復原された住居の中に入ってみることもできます。例えば、商家の中では、商人のマネキンが陶器のようなものを売っています。

復原された商家の中

武士の館では、男性のマネキンが居間で将棋に興じています(「酔象」と呼ばれる今では使われていない駒があり、「朝倉将棋」と呼ばれています)。また、台所では使用人のマネキンが料理の準備をしています。これらの展示物は、現地で発見された遺物、他の地域に現存している絵画資料や建物をもとに復原されています。

復原された武家屋敷
居間で将棋を指すマネキン
台所の中

中心部にある朝倉氏館跡

復原町並から一乗谷川を挟んだ反対側にある朝倉氏館跡にも行ってみましょう。この館は一乗谷では最大の建物で、朝倉氏の当主が住んでいました。館跡は約120m四方で、現在も土塁と水堀により囲まれています。ここには正面に唐門があります。これは、館が炎上した後、江戸時代になって館跡に建てられた松雲院(しょううんいん)の門が残っているものです。館跡とこの寺の門は、お互いを引き立てているように思います。

土塁と水堀に囲まれた朝倉氏館跡
館跡入口の唐門

館跡の内部では、それぞれの建物があった位置が平面展示されていて(主殿、会所、台所、厩舎など)、かつてどのような建物があったのか理解できるようになっています。

館跡の内部
館跡を後ろ上方から

現役の特別名勝である庭園群

ここには、朝倉氏の一族の館跡もあります。その上に、その館周辺には4つの朝倉氏の庭園があり、1991年以来国の特別名勝に指定されています。16世紀そのままの姿で出てきた庭園が、現在の人々をも魅了しているということであり、驚くべきことです。

一族の御殿の一つ、中の御殿跡

例えば、朝倉氏館跡の上の方にある湯殿跡庭園(ゆどのあとていえん)は、荒々しい岩が組み合わされ作られています。この庭園の雰囲気は、戦国時代さながらだ言われています。

湯殿跡庭園

諏訪館跡庭園はもともと、朝倉義景の妻(小少将)のために築造されたと言われています。巨石を使ったとても美しい池泉庭園です。この庭園で最も大きな石は、日本の池泉庭園の中でも最大のものと言われています。

諏訪館跡
諏訪館跡庭園
巨石を使って作られています

「一乗谷城その3」に続きます。
「一乗谷城その1」に戻ります。

37.Ichijodani Castle Part1

The castle started and ended with the Asakura Clan.

Location and History

Integration of Castle and Castle Town

Ichijodani Castle was located in Echizen Province (now Fukui Prefecture) which the Asakura Clan governed during the Sengoku Period. People usually consider this castle as a fortified city the Asakura Clan built. The city was integrated with a castle and castle town parts. Because of that, people at that time called the castle, just “Ichijodani”. People in the present time call it the Ichijodani Aasakura Clan Ruins.

The location of the castle

The Asakura Clan originally served the Shiba Clan, the family of the governor of Echizen Provence. Takakage Asakura was distinguished in the Onin War in Kyoto in the late 15th Century to support the Ashikaga Shogunate. As a result, the Shogunate assigned him the governor of Echizen Provence instead of the Shiba Clan. After that, the Asakura Clan governed the province over five generations for about 100 years. The clan chose a long narrow valley called Ichijodani as their home base, not the flat area called Fuchu which the Shiba Clan lived. The reason for the Aasakura Clan’s choice is thought that the clan had to continue fighting with the Shiba Clan and others like the Ikkoshu Sect.

The portrait of Takakage Asakura, owned by Shingetsuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The relief map around the castle

The valley was about 3km long from the north to the south, and about 500m wide. It was protected by several mountain castles on the mountains in the eastern and western side of the valley. “Ichijo-dani Castle” was one such castle but provided a limited amount of protection. Both edges of the valley also had fortress entrances built using earthen walls and water moats called the Inbound Fortress Entrance and Outbound Fortress Entrance. The area between the entrances, where Ichijo-dani River flowed, was called the Inside of the Entrances. The castle town was built along the narrow area, including the Asakura Clan Hall, the warriors’ houses, the merchants and craftsmen area, and temples.

The entrance to “Ichijo-dani Castle” as a mountain castle
The Inbound Fortress Entrance
The Outbound Fortress Entrance
The miniature model of the castle town, exhibited by the Restored Town area

One of Largest City in Sengoku Period

Ichijodani greatly prospered. Echizen Province was basically wealthy and the Asakura Clan earned lots of profits from trading by ships. The clan also united with their relatives and retainers to prevent enemies, like the Ikkoshu Sect, from invading their territory. These made the people in Ichijodani rich. The hall of the clan was very similar to that of the shogun’s deputy in Kyoto and had a gorgeous Japanese garden. The clan accommodated many nobles, high priests, and intellectuals from Kyoto, which was devastated after the Onin War. Warriors played Japanese chess inside their houses and priests enjoyed tea ceremonies. Trading and production were actively done in the town. The population of Ichijo-dani was said to reach about 10,000. The city became one of the largest cities in Japan, sometimes called a Little Kyoto.

The miniature model of the Asakura Clan Hall, from the signboard at the site
The gate of the Asakura Clan Hall Ruins

Destroyed by Nobunaga Oda

In 1567, Yoshiaki Ashikaga, who would be the last shogun of the Ashikaga Shogunate, visited Yoshikage Asakura, the last lord of the clan, in Ichijodani. Yoshiaki asked Yoshikage to take Yoshiaki to Kyoto and defeat his enemies. Yoshikage rejected it, so Yoshiaki left Ichijodani and visited Nobunaga Oda in Owari Province (now part of Aichi Pref.). Nobunaga went to Kyoto with Yoshiaki who became the shogun in 1568. They ordered Yoshikage to go to Kyoto and serve them. Yoshikage rejected it again and finally became an enemy of the shogun in 1570. Nobunaga and Yoshikage fought against each other for three years. The unity of the Asakura Clan collapsed after the long battle. Yoshikage had to escape from Ichijo-dani and was defeated in the end. Nobunaga’s soldiers attacked Ichijodani without its master. The city burned for three days and ended its history in 1573. The castle was destroyed.

The seated statue of Yoshiaki Ashikaga, owned by Tojiin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Yoshikage Asakura, owned by Shingetsuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Ichijodani Castle Part2”

138.Echizen-Ohno Castle Part3

Will you be able to see the castle in the sky?

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, all the buildings of Echizen-Ohno Castle were demolished. The mountain of the castle was turned into Kameyama Park. After World War II, some castle buildings including Tenshu were rebuilt.

The rebuilt Main Tower on the stone walls at Kameyama Park

Ohno City, which now owns the castle, promotes it as “Castle in the Sky” like Takeda Castle. The meaning of Castle in the Sky is when clouds spread below the mountain, the castle on the mountain looks like its floating in the sky. If this happens while you are at Echizen-Ohno Castle, you can take a photo of the castle in the sky from Inuyama Mountain where you can see the whole view of the castle. The city also says this situation is most likely to occur in October and November. However, according to the records, the chance to see the castle in the sky happens about 10 days per a year.

The “Castle in the Sky” can be seen at Echizen-Ohno Castle (licensed by Keisuke MAEDA via Wikimedia Commons)
The “Castle in the Sky” can be seen at Takeda Castle (licensed by abok via Wikimedia Commons)

My Impression

I visited Echizen-Ohno Castle to see the castle in the sky on a day in November. The castle was open from early in the morning during the month to make it possible for visitors to see if the castle in the sky situation happens.

The entrance of the Southern Route in the early morning

When I looked up from the top floor of the Tenshu building, the sky around the castle was very clear. Inuyama Mountain, from which you could see the castle in the sky, was rather cloudy. I realized that staying just one night is not enough. Even if the weather conditions for the castle in the sky are ideal, you cannot always see it. You may need to spend several days to see it.

The sky around the castle was very clear
Inuyama Mountain was rather cloudy

If you stay for only one night in the town, you can at least take a beautiful photo of the illuminated Echizen-Ohno Castle.

The illuminated Echizen-Ohno Castle

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car:
It is about 30 minutes away from Fukui IC on Hokuriku Expressway.
There is a parking lot near the entrance of the Southern Route to the castle.
By public transportation, it takes about 40 minutes walking from JR Echizen-Ohno Station.
To get to Echizen-Ohno Station from Tokyo: Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen super express, transfer to the limited express on the Hokuriku Line at Kanazawa Station, and transfer to the Kuzuryu Line at Fukui Station.
From Osaka: Take the Thunderbird limited express and transfer to the Kuzuryu Line at Fukui Station.

Links and References

Echizen Ohno Castle Official Site

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Echizen-Ohno Castle Part1”
Back to “Echizen-Ohno Castle Part2”