119.杉山城 その1

先進的防御システムをもった謎の城

立地と歴史

地味なのに有名な城

杉山城は、現在の埼玉県西部にあたる比企郡に築かれた城でした。この城の城跡は、日本の歴史ファンの間で最近有名になっています。この城跡は、それほど大きくもなければ、建物も石垣もありません。基礎は全て土造りです。更には、いつ誰がこの城を築き使ったのかもわかっていません。この城に関する明確な記録がないのです。それでは、なぜこの城は有名になったのでしょうか。それは、この城が地方の小さな城としては、驚くほど巧みな防御システムを持っていたからなのです。

城の位置

「杉山城問題」

歴史家は長い間、杉山城がいつ誰によって築かれたのか解明しようとしてきました。ところが、その結論は、ますます複雑化してしまっています。城跡で発掘調査が行われたのですが、発掘された遺物から多くの研究者は、この城は16世紀初頭に築かれ、そして使われたと考えました。その当時この城の周辺地域では、関東地方を支配していた上杉氏が内紛を起こしていました(山内上杉氏と扇谷上杉氏との間で起こった長享の乱など)。上杉氏がこの城を築いたとしたのです。一方、縄張り研究者たちは、杉山城に見られる複雑な防御システムは、16世紀後半くらいの、もっと後の時代に見られるものだと反論しました。こちらは、上杉氏の後に関東地方を支配した北条氏が、このような先進的な防御システムを築いたに違いないとしたのです。この議論は「杉山城問題」と言われています。この問題が、この城をより一層有名にしたのかもしれません。

上杉家の家紋、上杉笹 (licensed by Mukai via Wikimedia Commons)
16世紀後半の北条氏当主、北条氏康肖像画、小田原城所蔵  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

「築城の教科書」

杉山城は、麓からの高さ42mの丘陵の上に築かれました。城には中心部のものを含め、10個の曲輪がありました。それらの曲輪は、南北と東の三方向に広がっていて、城の中心部の本郭を守るように作られていました。城の西側は急な崖となっていて、崖下に流れる川とともに天然の障壁となっていました。全ての曲輪は、土塁そして空堀に囲まれていて、土橋か木橋によって接続されていました。この城の防御システムの最も重要な特徴は、全ての曲輪の入口が横矢(側面攻撃)によって守られていることでしょう。この仕組みは、巧みな土塁の屈曲と曲輪への導線によって成り立っていました。この城の設計は高いレベルで洗練されていて、現在では度々「築城の教科書」とも呼ばれています。

杉山城跡の模型(嵐山町役場にて展示)

一時的な目的で築城か

発掘の結果によると、杉山城には、館、櫓、門といった常設の建物はありませんでした。恐らく、小屋や柵といった仮設の建物だけがあったと思われます。また、この城は短期間しか使われなかったことがわかっています。火をかけられて破壊されるまで、一度も改修されていないからです。これは、この城が単一の目的か戦いのために作られたからと考えられます。杉山城の周辺には、他にも多くの単一目的で作られたであろう城が存在しました。これらの城には、例えば小倉城のように、それぞれ明確な特徴があるのです。戦国時代の16世紀には、この地域には多くの戦いが起こりました。この地域の戦国大名は、自分たちが住むための城だけでなく、戦いに勝ち抜くために使い捨ての城も築きました。たとえ杉山城が後者のうちの一つであったとしても、驚くほど技巧的な防御システムを持った城であることには変わらないのです。

杉山城跡全景(嵐山町役場説明板より)
小倉城跡、その当時の関東地方の城としては珍しく石垣が築かれています

「杉山城その2」に続きます。

125.Kozukue Castle Part3

The ruins have become popular since the construction of the road.

Features

Parted Barbican

In fact, the ruins were partly destroyed and divided by the Daisan-Keihin Road. You can look at one of the barbicans over the road from the entrance of the Western Enclosure. You will have to go through the tunnel under the road to get there. The top of it is one of Fujizuka Mounds, called Fuji-sengen, made for worshiping Mt. Fuji since the Edo Period. It might had been a turret base before that. When you walk out of the ruins, you will get back to the city area right away.

The map around the castle

The Daisan-Keihin Road parting the ruins
Climbing the stairways after the tunnel
The Fujizuka Mounds on the barbican
you will soon get back to the city area

Later History

After Kozukue Castle was abandoned, the local people have called the ruins Shiroyama or the Castle Mountain. The studies about the castle started as early as in the Edo Period. However, the ruins ironically became popular as a historic site since they were partly destroyed by the construction of the Daisan-keihin Road in 1963. Through that, Yokohama City launched the Kozukue Castle Ruins Forest to preserve them in 1977. People are now interested in what the castle was like in the past.

The ruins of Kozukue Castle and Daisan-Keihin Road

My Impression

I think Kozukue Castle is a good example of how to protect a castle with few defenders. I guess if a battle happened at Kozukue Castle when Hideyoshi invaded, this castle could survive at least over one night unlike Yamanaka Castle and Hachioji Castle.

The large dry moat in front of the Western Enclosure

How to get There

I recommend using a train when you visit the ruins because the park has no parking lot.
It takes about 15 minutes on foot from JR Kozukue Station on the Yokohama Line.

Kozukue Station
The castle ruins seen from the platform of Kozukue Station

The Yokohama-Kamiasao Road (Kanagawa Prefectural Road 12) goes near the station, so turn right at the Kozukue Station Intersection and go along the street. Then, turn right at the Kozukuetsuji Intersection.

Turn right at the Kozukuetsuji Intersection

Go along the street again, cross the railway and turn left at the first intersection.

Cross the railway
Turn left right away

Go along the street in the residential area, and when you find the signpost for the ruins on the utility pole on the right, turn right. You will eventually arrive at the entrance of the ruins.

Turn right when you find the signpost on the utility pole (inside the red circle)
The entrance of the ruins

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Kozukue Castle Part1”
Back to “Kozukue Castle Part2”

125.Kozukue Castle Part2

Another world in Yokohama City

Features

Ruins planted with Bamboo Forest

Today, the ruins of Kozukue Castle are preserved by Yokohama City as a park called the Kozukue Castle Ruins Forest. Yokohama City has the largest population among the cities in Japan except for Tokyo Special Ward, with about 3.8 million citizens. Even the hilly area around the ruins is covered with lots of modern facilities, office buildings and residences. However, once you walk into the ruins, you may feel like you are in another world. The hill for the ruins is basically planted with a beautiful and well-maintained bamboo forest. The foundation of the castle also remains under the forest.

The bamboo forest on the ruins
The location map at the site

The map around the castle

You can climb up on the well-developed trail from the foot of the hill called Nekoya.

The foot of the hill
Climbing on the trail

Large-scale Dry Moat

You will soon reach the top of the outer earthen walls and see the large-scale dry moat in front of the enclosures. This dry moat is still about 13m in width and about 12m in depth. It must have been much deeper in the past. When the excavation team recently dug the bottom of another dry moat in the castle at over 2m, they still could not find its original bottom.

The large dry moat
Looking at the bottom of the moat

The trail goes on the outer earthen walls at the same level as the top of the moat, but you can also go down to the bottom from some points where the slope of the moat is gentle. If you stand at the bottom looking up, you might find another perspective of the castle.

The trail going on the outer earthen walls
One of the points where you can go down to the bottom of the moat
The bottom of the dry moat

Eastern Enclosure under Excavation

If you walk around the outer earthen walls to the right, you will reach the Eastern Enclosure which is also called the Second Enclosure at the site. The excavation is also ongoing at the center of the enclosure, where some buildings were built in the past.

The center of the Eastern Enclosure
The excavation site

You can also climb up to the high turret earthen base at the edge of the enclosure, where you can look down the dry moat around it from the top.

Climbing up to the turret base
A view of the dry moat around the enclosure from the base

The trail around the enclosure goes to the bottom of the moat. You will find the beautiful bamboo forest around the enclosure again when you walk on the trail.

The trail on the bottom of the moat
The wonderful bamboo forest

Western Enclosure used as Sports Square

If you walk around the outer earthen walls to the left or walk over the Connecting Enclosure from the Eastern Enclosure, you will reach the Western Enclosure which is also called the Main Enclosure at the site. The inside of it is a flat square, so it is used for sports like baseball now. An altered gate called Kabuki-mon was built at the entrance of it to look like the Main Enclosure. However, in fact, historians have been arguing for over 150 years if this enclosure was really the main one. Some of them think the Eastern Enclosure was main. The excavation may find the correct answer in the future.

You can go there by turning left at the first intersection
Or walking over the Connecting Enclosure from the Second Enclosure
The Western Enclosure
The altered gate

To be continued in “Kozukue Castle Part3”
Back to “Kozukue Castle Part1”

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