58.Akashi Castle Part1

The castle made the Shogunate governance stable.

Location and History

Node of Land and Sea Transportation

Akashi City is located in the southern part of Hyogo Prefecture alongside Seto Island Sea. The city is connected to Kinki and Chugoku Regions, as an important point for land transport. The area is also close to Awaji and Shikoku Islands, where people got on board ships to the islands in the past. People can go across the Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge to get to the islands now.

The location of the castle

The Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge (licensed by Tysto via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle to monitor Lords in western Japan

In 1615, Tokugawa Shogunate defeated the largest rival, Toyotomi Clan. It also ordered other lords to have no other castles than one castle where they lived (Law of One Castle per Province).
Its governance got stable, but it was never satisfied with that. The Shogun, Hidetada Tokugawa told one of the hereditary feudal lords, Tadazane Ogasawara to build a new castle around the Akashi area.

The portrait of Hidetada Tokugawa, owned by Saifuku-ji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Tadazane Ogasawara, owned by Fukuju-ji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The purpose of the castle was to monitor the non-hereditary feudal lords in western Japan, who would be against the Shogunate. Himeji Castle was already being used for that purpose, but the Shogunate thought it was not enough. The new castle was named “Akashi Castle”. Akashi Castle was built using natural terrain such as the edge of the hill and the plain areas. The hilly area in the north had the main portion of the castle such as the Main Enclosure and the Second Enclosure, which provided much defense. The area originally had a natural pond called Ko-no-ike which was also used as a moat. The plain area in the south had the Main Hall for the lord and the houses for the retainers. The area was guarded by gates such as the Main Gate, and the water moats surrounding the area tripled.

The relief map around the castle

Part of the illustration of Akashi Castle in Harina Province, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan

Castle was built by Rush work

The construction for the castle was rapidly completed within one year in 1619. This was due to the construction using moved buildings and waste materials from abandoned castles by the Law of One Castle per Province. Four three-story turrets were built in each corner of the Main Enclosure. These turrets were connected by the plaster walls which surrounded the enclosure. The large stone wall base for a Main Tower was also built, but the Main Tower itself was never built. The main portion of the castle including the Main Enclosure was covered by the high stone walls.

The two out of the four three-story turrets remain

After the completion of the castle, Tadazane was promoted to be the lord of Kokura Castle in 1632, getting more earnings than when he was at Akashi Castle. For about 50 years after that, several lords governed the castle before the Matsudaira Clan came to the castle in 1682. The clan governed the castle until the end of the Edo Period. No war happened during that time, but they often had to repair the buildings which were not new ones when the castle was first built.

To be continued in “Akashi Castle Part2”

58.明石城 その1

幕府統治安定のための城

立地と歴史

陸上海上交通の結節点

明石市は、瀬戸内海に沿った兵庫県南部にあります。近畿地方と中国地方を結ぶ、陸上交通の重要地点です。この地域はまた淡路島と四国に近く、過去には人々はここから船に乗って島の方に渡っていきました。現在では明石海峡大橋を渡って行くことができます。

城の位置

明石海峡大橋 (licensed by Tysto via Wikimedia Commons)

西日本の大名を監視するために築城

1615年、徳川幕府は最大の敵対者であった豊臣氏を滅ぼしました。また、他の大名にはその大名が住んでいる一つの城しか持ってはいけない旨を命令しました(一国一城令)。幕府の統治は安定しましたが、決して満足しませんでした。将軍である徳川秀忠は、譜代大名の一人、小笠原忠真に明石地域周辺に新しい城を築くよう命じました。

徳川秀忠肖像画、西福寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
小笠原忠真肖像画、福聚寺蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

その城の目的は、幕府に反抗するかもしれない西日本の外様大名を監視することでした。姫路城が既にその目的のために存在していましたが、幕府はそれだけでは不十分と考えたのです。その新しい城は「明石城」と名付けられました。明石城は、丘陵地帯の端や平坦地といった自然の地形を生かして築かれました。北側の丘陵地帯には、本丸や二の丸といった城の中心部が置かれ、防御が強化されました。この一帯にはもともと剛ノ池という自然の池があり、これも堀として使われました。南側の平坦地は大手門のような門によって守られ、三重の堀が辺りを囲んでいました。

城周辺の起伏地図

播磨国明石城絵図、部分(出展:国立公文書館)

突貫工事により完成

この城の工事は、1619年に始まりその年のうちに突貫で完成しました。これは一国一城令により廃城となった他の城から建物を移築したり、廃材を活用したことによります。本丸の隅には4基の三重櫓が建てられました。それらの櫓は漆喰壁によって連結され、本丸を囲んでいました。大きな天守台も作られたのですが、天守そのももが建てられることはありませんでした。本丸を含む城の主要部分は高石垣により覆われていました。

4つの三重櫓のうち、2つが現存しています

城の完成後、1632年に忠真は、明石城にいたときよりも多くの石高で小倉城主として栄転しました。その後約50年間は、城主の氏族は何回も変わりました。1682年に松平氏がこの城に来て以来、幕末まで統治することになります。この間、戦は起こりませんでしたが、建物は頻繁に修理が必要でした。城を最初に作ったときでもその建物は新築でなかったからです。

「明石城その2」に続きます。

59.Himeji Castle Part4

Castles are trying to survive into the future.

Features (West Enclosure)

The West Enclosure is located on Sagiyama mountain, the southwest of the Main Towers. It was lastly improved by Tadamasa Honda, when he was married to Senhime, the daughter of Ieyasu Tokugawa, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate. The enclosure has large space and the Roofed Passage Turret where you can enter. You can also see equipment for battles such as machicolations as well as rooms for women who might have served Senhime. The view of the Main Towers from this enclosure looks very elegant.

The map around the castle

The Roofed Passage Turret on the West Enclosure
The Main Tower can be seen from the West Enclosure

My Impression

I think Himeji Castle looks much better with surrounded by natural terrain. For example, the Main Tower buildings are beautiful by themselves, but the buildings could be more beautiful with the mountain and the natural materials from which the towers were originally built.

The picture of only the Main Tower building
A beautiful scenery of the combination of the Main Tower and nature materials

In addition, when I visited the castle in 2013, I had a unique experience. The castle was undergoing repairs under The Heisei Great Repairs. The Large Main Tower was hidden behind construction covering. However, visitors could enter the construction site to see the tower close-up. I saw the roof top of the tower being painted with thick plaster among the roof tiles. The thickness of the plaster at the castle is 3cm, which is thicker than the past. This is to protect against the harsh weather. Even now, castles are trying to survive into the future.

The construction covering of the Heisei Great Repairs
The roof top of the tower that can be seen close-up

How to get There

If you want to visit by car: It takes about 15 minutes from the Hanada IC or Tohori Ramp on the Bantan renraku Road. The are several parking lots around the castle.
From Himeji Station: Take the Himeji Castle Loop Bus from the Himeji-ekimae stop in front of the north exit of the station and get off at the Himeji-jo Otemon-mae stop. Or it takes about 20 minutes on foot from the station.

Links and References

Himeji Castle Official Website

That’s all.
Back to “Himeji Castle Part1”
Back to “Himeji Castle Part3”