196.Sadowara Castle Part2

Visiting the castle ruins might be lucky to you.

Features

Limited Opening Days and Routes to Top

Today, the ruins of Sadowara Castle consist of two parts, the restored Main Hall in the Second Enclosure at the foot and the remaining foundations on the mountain including the Main Enclosure. The Main Hall is used as a museum called Kakushokan or the Crane and Pine Hall, where you can learn about the history of the castle and see restored or excavated items. However, as of May 2023, please make sure it is basically open only on weekends and public holidays probably for its operational purposes.

Kakushokan, the restored Main Hall at the foot
The interior of the hall

In addition, the routes to the mountain part is not always open as well because of occasional damages caused by natural disasters. For example, there are two routes to the top, however, only one route is available as of May 2023. This is because the harsh weather from Typhoon No.14 in 2022 caused landslides to the mountain that made all the routes impossible to be used. Officials have been restoring the routes and just opened one of them back in January 2023. Such a situation has often been happening to the mountain, so the officials even now struggle to maintain the mountain part. That may also have been the reason why the Sadowara Domain closed the part when they built the Main Hall at the foot.

The relief map around the castle

Going on Middle Route to Top

The only open route to the top is called Nakanomichi or the Middle Route, which was considered the back route. The top is only 40m above from the foot, not far from it, however, it is not easy to access, which meant it had a very defensive design in the past. The Middle Route goes on a valley between ridges of the mountain. It is very steep and is unstable on the feet, so if it rains a lot, it could be dangerous. The ridges have enclosures and their sides are cut vertically by processing the soil of the Shirasu plateau. If you were an enemy, you would have been attacked from above of both sides.

The map around the castle

The entrance of the Middle Route
Climbing the steep route on the valley
The route is sandwiched by enclosures on both sides
The sides of the enclosures are cut vertically

Slightly remaining Main Tower Base in Main Enclosure

You will eventually reach a fork in the route at he top area, which surrounds the Main Enclosure. The enclosure also has steep cliffs on its side, which was probably cut vertically by the builders. If you take the route on the right, you will arrive at the back entrance of the enclosure.

The fork on the mountain
Looking up at the Main Enclosure
The route around the Main Enclosure
The back entrance of the enclosure

While if you take the left one, you will enter the main entrance of it.

The route on the left from the fork
A small enclosure in front of the main entrance of the Main Enclosure
The main entrance

The Main Enclosure now looks like two connected squares and the ruins of the Main Tower base is in the back one. The base ruins have only the foundational stones lining up on the ground. Their upper part was probably destroyed intentionally by the lord of the castle when they closed the mountain part. That makes it difficult to find out who and when the base was first built.

The Main Enclosure (the front square)
The ruins of the Main Tower base (in the back square)
The foundational stones of the base

To be continued in “Sadowara Castle Part3”
Back to “Sadowara Castle Part1”

196.佐土原城 その2

この城跡に行けること自体が幸運かもしれません。

特徴、見どころ

限られている見学日時とルート

現在、佐土原城跡は2つの部分から構成されています。山麓の二の丸に復元された御殿と、本丸を含む山上に残っている城の基礎部分です。復元された御殿は、鶴松館(かくしょうかん)という名で博物館として運営されていて、城の歴史を学んだり、復元されたり発掘された文物を見学することができます。ただし、2023年の5月時点では、運営上の都合で週末と祝日しか開いていません。

復元された山麓の御殿「鶴松館」
鶴松館の内部

更には、山上部分へのルートも自然災害により常に通れるとは限りません。例えば、山頂へは2つのルートがあるのですが、2023年の5月時点では1つのルートしか通れなくなっていました。それは、2022年の台風14号の暴風雨により土砂崩れが発生し、全てのルートが使用不能になってしまったからです。当局はそれ以来ルートの復旧に努め、2023年1月に1つのルートを復旧させたのです。このような状況はしばしばこの山に発生していて、現代の行政にとっても山上部分の城跡を維持するのは大変なことなのです。このような事情で、かつての佐土原藩も山上部分を廃し、山麓に御殿を建設したのではないでしょうか。

城周辺の起伏地図

中の道を通って山上へ

唯一通ることができる山上へのルートは中の道(なかのみち)と呼ばれていて、城の搦手道とされています。山頂は山麓からわずか40mの高さなのですが、たどり着くには多少困難が伴います。過去においては、それが城の防御力につながっていました。中の道は峰の間の谷間を通っていて、とても急で足元は不安定です。そのため、もし大雨が降った場合は危険を伴います。谷を挟む両峰には曲輪があり、その側面はシラス台地の土壌を垂直に削られていています。もし敵がこのルートを攻めてきても、両側の頭上から攻撃を受けたことでしょう。

城周辺の地図

中の道入口
急な谷間を登っていきます
両側を曲輪に挟まれています
曲輪の側面は垂直に削られています

本丸にわずかに残る天守台

山上に至るとルートは分かれ道になっていて、それが本丸を囲んでいます。本丸の側面も急な崖となっていて、恐らく築城されたときに垂直に削られたと思われます。分かれ道を右の方に行った場合は本丸の裏手口に至ります。

山上の分かれ道
本丸を見上げています
本丸を囲む通路
本丸の裏手口

一方、左の方に行った場合には正面の虎口に至ります。

分かれ道を左の方に行ったときの通路
正面口の手前にある小曲輪
本丸の正面虎口

現在の本丸は、2つの広場がつながっているように見えますが、天守台跡は奥の方の中にあります。天守台跡には地面に並んだ基礎部分の石列しか残っておらず、上の部分は恐らくかつての城主が山城を廃したときに破壊されたのではないかと思われます。このため、この天守台をいつ誰が最初に築いたのかが判別し難くなっています。

本丸(手前の広場)
天守台跡(奥の方の広場にあります)
わずかに残る石列

「佐土原城その3」に続きます。
「佐土原城その1」に戻ります。

196.Sadowara Castle Part1

The castle symbolized the Ito Clan’s success and failure.

Location and History

Ito Clan from eastern Japan builds Castle

Miyazaki Prefecture is located in the eastern part of the Kyushu Region, which is known for its agriculture. Because of its long from the north to the south and its face is the direction of sunrise, therefore, it’s suitable for farming. Almost all the area of the prefecture was called Hyuga Province, which means the province facing the sun. It is easy to see the province had been fertile since the Ancient Times. There has actually been the popular Saitobaru Burial Mounds which were built between the 4th and 7th Centuries in the central part of the prefecture. The province also had the legend of the first Emperor Jinmu coming from there, going to the east, in order to establish Yamato Imperial Court.

Saitobaru Burial Mounds

The range of Miyazaki Prefecture and the location of the castles

Sadowara Castle was the one which once became the center of Hyuga Province and the home base of the Ito Clan. The clan originated from the Kudo Clan and called themselves a land name of Ito when they settled in Ito, the eastern part of Izu Peninsula, eastern Japan in the 12th Century. Since the Kamakura Shogunate was established at the end of the century, some of the warriors were sent by the shogunate to local areas to govern them. A branch of the Ito Clan, which was sent to Hyuga Province, was one of them. The Tajima-Ito Clan, which was named after the settlement, was said to have first built the castle in the 14th Century.

The range of Izu Peninsula (inside the blue line) and the location of Sadowara Castle

Top of Ito 48 Castles

Meanwhile, another person from the core family of the Ito Clan was also sent by the Ashikaga Shogunate to Hyuga Province in the same century to govern the area during the Northern and Southern Courts period. Both Ito Clans were eventually unified and became a strong warlord based in Sadowara Castle. During the Sengoku Period between the 15th and 16th Centuries, the clan often fought against the Shimazu Clan from the south over Hyuga Province. The lord of the clan at that time, Yoshisuke Ito was so aggressive that he was able to capture Obi Castle, a major one in the southern Hyuga Province in 1569. He was just at his peak, having owned 48 castles in the province, in which Sadowara Castle was at the top. Its castle town prospered like the provincial capital and it was called Little Kyoto in Kyushu.

The portrait of Yoshisuke Ito, from the Sakai City History Volume 1 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Obi Castle

Sadowara Castle is basically considered one of the Southern Kyushu type castles which were built on the Shirasu Plateau looking like a mountain or a hill in the area. The plateau has been made from volcanic ash caused by ancient eruptions. Its soil is fragile and can easily collapse to form cliffs. Warriors in the area often used this nature to build their castles because it was easy for them to process natural terrain for strong defensive systems. For example, they built deep dry moats, high walls under enclosures, and narrow defensive gates by cutting the soil. Some popular examples of them were Chiran, Obi and Sadowara Castles.

The Main Route of Sadowara Castle
The dry moat of Chiran Castle (licensed by PIXTA)

Castle is captured by Shimazu Clan due to Collapse of Ito

Yoshisuke Ito’s glory didn’t last long, however. He was losing the Ito 48 Castles one by one, triggered by the lost of the Battle of Kizakihara against the Shimazu Clan in 1573. The Shimazu’s force and the Ito’s deterioration also made his retainers alienate him more and more. He wondered if he could be besieged in Sadowara Castle, but the situation didn’t allow him to do so, but he was forced to leave the castle. He escaped from Hyuga Province with his family and few vassals to Bungo Province in the north, where his ally, Sorin Otomo governed. This was called the Collapse of Ito. They had finally lost all that they had and eventually became wanderers. Yoshisuke died while drifting in 1585 before his son, Suketake returned to Obi Castle in Hyuga Province in 1588 by serving his new master, the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi.

The portrait of Sorin Otomo, owned by Zuihoin (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Suketake Ito, owned by the board of education of Nichinan City (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Sadowara Castle was eventually owned by the Shimazu Clan. The clan might have improved the castle by building the Main Tower on the top, but It has not been confirmed yet. The Main Tower is said to be the one which was located in the southernmost place in Japan. After the lord of the castle, Toyohisa Shimazu was killed in the battle of Sekigahara in 1600, the castle was followed by the Tokugawa Shogunate and Mochihisa Shimazu whose successors governed it until the end of the Edo Period as the Sadowara Domain. Mochihisa’s son, Tadaoki abandoned the castle on the mountain and moved it to the foot where the Main Hall was built. This was because maintaining the castle on the Shirasu Plateau was too difficult and the hall on the plain land was convenient for the government during the peaceful Edo Period.

The ruins of the Main Tower base of Sadowara Castle
The portrait of Mochihisa Shimazu, from the database of Historiographical Institute The University of Tokyo (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The restored Main Hall at the foot as an historical museum

To be continued in “Sadowara Castle Part2”