Dokan Ota – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

19.Kawagoe Castle Part2

Features

Today, the ruins of Kawagoe Castle are not noticeable among the city area. Only part of the Main Hall remains in the Main Enclosure and some related historical items are preserved or restored around. For example, if you walk or drive from the east of the castle, which was a waterlogged area, to the castle ruins, you may just notice the road is slightly going up. That was a border for dividing the inside and outside of the castle, but all of them have become a city area. Therefore, let us first seek for some of the traces of the castle in the city area before visiting the Main Hall in the center.

Around the eastern edge of the castle in the past

Older Traces of Castle

We will start from the second enclosure, which is the north of the main enclosure and where Kawagoe City Museum is located. This was the eastern edge of the castle in its early stage. You can now walk down to the Shingashi River on the east, which was developed during the Edo Period. Some of the residential areas around originate from new enclosures at that time and some of the roads were moats.

The aerial photo around the castle

If you walk along the river, it will follow the edge of the Musashino Plateau. You will eventually find Taya Weir which was originally the estuary of the Taya River. That means the upstream beyond is older than the downstream.

If you go further, you will see Dokan Bridge which named after the castle’s builder, Dokan Ota’s residence was nearby. You will next see Tomyoji Bridge where the Uesugi Clan’s troops assaulted during the Siege of Kawagoe Castle in 1546. The Tomyoji Temple is near the bridge, where severe battles occurred in the battle.

The stathe of Dokan Ota in front of Kawagoe City Hall

The monument of the Night Battle of Kawagoe in the Tomyoji Temple

From Western Main Gate Ruins to Main Enclosure

Let us nest go to the south around the City Hall of Kawagoe where the western main gate of the castle was built. The route through the gate was protected by a Umadashi system which was a round-shaped small enclosure in front of it. However, it was removed and has become an intersection crowded with many tourists. The current road goes straight to the center of the castle on the east, unlike the former curved road.

The map around the castle

The intersection in front of Kawagoe City Hall

The western main gate (marked by the red circle) in the miniature model exhibited by Kawagoe City Museum

The road curved on the right and hit the moat of Naka-no-mon Gate. Visitors had to turn left to enter the gate. The moat has partially been restored to be open to the public.

The miniature model seen from the north, the western main gate is marked by the red circle. the moat of the Naka-no-mon gate is marked by the blue circle, and another curved point is marked by the green circle

The moat of the Naka-no-mon Gate is on the right

If you go further after passing the moat, you will find a planted round space on the right. This is the trace of another moat overhanging from the left, which meant visitors were not able to go straight again. The former road finally reached the main enclosure after passing the second enclosure.

From Southern Main Gate Ruins to Main Enclosure

Let us check out another original route to the center from the southern main gate. The gate was similar to the western one and also completely removed, so there are no traces at all at the site beside Kawagoe Daiichi Elementary School.

The map around the castle

The miniature model seen from the south, the southern main gate is marked by the red circle and the Fujimi Turret is marked by the blue circle

Around the ruins of the southern main gate

If you walk on the road along the school to the north and turn right at the first intersection, you will go on the original path to the center. The path is paved and surrounded by modern residential areas now, but was surrounded by earthen walls or water moats in the past. You will next see a hill on the left, which is the ruins of Fujimi Yagura (meaning Seeing Mt. Fuji Turret). The turret had three stories, which was the substitute for a Main Tower. It was used as a lookout and defense for the castle.

You can climb to the top of the hill over the dried moat ruins in front. The turret was accessible from the center in the past, since it is currently used as a High School establishment, access is already restricted. You need to go back to the path, turn left to reach the main enclosure.

The top of the hill where the turret was built

The area behind the turret is used as the school

You need to go back to the path to reach the main enclosure

To be continued in “Kawagoe Castle Part3”
Back to “Kawagoe Castle Part1”

19.Kawagoe Castle Part1

Kawagoe Castle was located in modern day Kawagoe City of Saitama Prefecture at the central part of the Kanto Region. Its former castle town is known as the street with many Kura storehouses and named as a little Edo, which attracts many tourists. The castle and town were developed with a deep relationship with Edo City (the current Tokyo), the shogun’s capital.

Location and History

Kawagoe Castle was located in modern day Kawagoe City of Saitama Prefecture at the central part of the Kanto Region. The city is known as the street with many Kura storehouses and named as a little Edo, which attracts many tourists. In fact, the streets were mostly rebuilt after Kawagoe Great Fire in 1893 of the Meiji Era, not during the Edo Period. However, the city area originates from the castle town of Kawagoe Castle. In addition, the castle and town were developed with a deep relationship with Edo City (the current Tokyo), the shogun’s capital.

The range of Kawagoe City and the location of the castle

The Osawa Clan’s residence, the originator of the Kura storehouses, which survived the great fire and was followed by the others

Toki-no-kane (time bell tower) of Kawagoe

Dokan Ota builds Castle

The Kawagoe area is surrounded by curved Iruma River in three directions, the north, east and west. That’s why the city’s name may come from the place you need to go over (Goe) the river (Kawa). The first lord family of the area is said to be the Kawagoe Clan which lived in the western riverside of the Iruma River between the 12th and 14th Centuries. The clan’s residence was still not located in the later Kawagoe Castle. The castle was first built in 1457 by Dokan Ota who was a senior vassal of the Ogigayatsu Uesugi Clan. The clan had been fighting against the Ashikaga Clan since 1455, together with the relative Yamanouchi Uesugi Clan. They confronted at Tone River, the largest river in the Kanto Region. The Uesugi Clans took their positions at the western side of the river, that’s why they needed several new castles behind the river. Kawagoe Castle was one of the three major ones, followed by Edo and Iwatsuki Castles.

The map around the castle

The ruins of the Kawagoe Clan’s residence

The copy of the sitting statue of Dokan Ota, exhibited by Kawagoe City Museum

Part of “View of Edo” left screen. pair of six-panel folding screens, in the 17th century, owned by National Museum of Japanese History (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Stage of Night Battle of Kawagoe

Kawagoe Castle eventually became the home of the Ogikayatsu Uesugi Clan. When the clan had an internal conflict with the Yamanouchi Uesugi Clan during the beginning of the 16th Century, the castle became the frontline of the battle. This was because the Yamanouchi Uesugi Clan reused the former Kawagoe Clan’s residence as its encampment across the Iruma River. During their internal fighting, the Hojo Clan invaded the Kanto Region and finally captured Kawagoe Castle in 1537. Both Uesugi Clans noticed their crisis and made peace with each other to get the castle back. The clans’ large troops surrounded the castle which was owned by Tsunanari Hojo in October of 1545.

The ruins of the moats the Yamanouchi-Uesugi Clan built at the former Kawagoe Clan’s residence

The castle was still small at that time and located at the edge of Musashino Plateau with few enclosures made of soil. However, it was protected by natural waterlogged areas around the Iruma River in three directions, the north, south and east. It was thought that artificial ditches and moats were built in the other direction and around the castle. In April of 1546, Ujiyasu Hojo, the lord of the clan reinforced the castle. He announced that he and the castle would surrender to the Uesugi Clans, which threw them off their guard. On 20th of April, Ujiyasu started a night attack against the Uesugi Clans, which was called the Night Battle of Kawagoe. A severe battle happened at Tomyoji Temple, just about 800m away from the center of the castle. That resulted in the Hojo’s hegemony and the Uesugi’s destruction in the region.

The relief map around the castle, the slight elevation around Shingashi RIver is the Musashino Plateau

Isanuma Marsh, located in the east of the castle ruins, around the castle may have been like this in the past

The portrait of Ujityasu Hojo, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Place to Stay for Shoguns

The region was owned by the Tokugawa Clan at the end of the 16th Century and the Tokugawa Shogunate was established in 1603. Edo Castle became the shogun’s home, so Kawagoe Castle became an important defense for Edo Castle to the north. That’s why the Sakai Clan, which was trusted by the shoguns, became the lords of Kawagoe Castle. Oher than that, the 1st shogun (Ieyasu) and the 3rd shogun (Iemitsu) often stayed in Kawagoe Castle when they went hunting. There was an episode which indicated their relationship with Kawagoe as following. The Kitain Temple in Kawagoe was re-established by Priest Tenkai who was also trusted by the shoguns in 1599. However, it was burned down by a great fire in 1638. The shogun, Iemitsu ordered to immediately restore the temple, offering some Edo Castle’s buildings including his birth room and his foster mother, Lady Kasuga’s make-up room. They are remaining in the temple.

The main enclosure of Kawagoe Castle drawn in “View of Edo”, the buildings inside seem to have been the shogun’s loggings, exhibited by National Museum of Japanese Histories

The portrait of Iemitsu Tokugawa, owned by Kinzanji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Kitain Temple (its multi-treasure pagoda)

The buildings of the former Edo Castle Main Hall, remaining in the temple

Important Defense and Satellite City for Edo

The castle and the area around were followed by several other hereditary vassals of the shoguns as the Kawagoe Domain. Some of them became members of the shogun’s council of elders in the central government. One of them, Nobutsuna Matsudaira improved the castle. He doubled the castle’s range by building new enclosures, turrets and gates. However, the castle was still basically made of soil without the Main Tower, which looked like a group of halls. To prevent enemies from invading, complex routes were built with earthen walls, mud walls, and water moats, instead of high stone walls and turrets in other castles. The castle town was also developed with Kawagoe Road, Shingashi River as waterways, and agricultural land. As a result, the town prospered by providing their products, such as Somen noodles, silk goods, and Kawagoe sweet potatoes which is still popular, to Edo City which was already one of the largest cities in the world.

The miniature model of Kawagoe Castle after the improvement, the Kitain Temple is over there, exhibited by Kawagoe City Museum

The center of the castle was the Main Hall in the second enclosure. While the main enclosure had been used as the loggings for the shoguns it was abandoned for sometime. After the Main Hall was burned down in 1846, the Kawagoe Domain decided to rebuild the hall in the main enclosure. Although the domain was facing huge financial problems due to being in charge of the coast guard of Edo Bay against possible invasions form the Western ships, the hall was completed in 1848 thanks to lots of additional taxes and donations from locals.

The second enclosure of Kawagoe Castle drawn in “View of Edo”, exhibited by National Museum of Japanese Histories

The remaininng Main Hall of Kawagoe Castle

To be continued in “Kawagoe Castle Part2”

18.Hachigata Castle Part1

Hachigata Castle was located in modern day Yorii Town in the northern part of Saitama Prefecture. The castle was prominent both when the Sengoku Period of the Kanto Region started and ended.

Location and History

Hachigata Castle was located in modern day Yorii Town in the northern part of Saitama Prefecture. The castle was prominent both when the Sengoku Period of the Kanto Region started and ended.

Beginning of Sengoku Period in Kanto Region

The location of the castle

The region ran into the unquiet Sengoku Period in 1455 when the Kyotoku War began. The Ashikaga Clan, the shogunate head for the Kanto Region and the Uesugi Clan, the shogunate deputy for the region opposed and confronted each other at the Tone River, the largest river in the region. The Uesugi Clan constructed Ikkako Encampment at the western riverside and used it for over 20 years. The clan actually consisted of two branch clans, the Yamanouchi and the Ogigayatsu Clans. Each branch clan also had a main retainer to control many warriors and matters from the Nagao Clan for the Yamanouchi and the Ota Clan for the Ogigayatsu. One of the main retainers, Kagenobu Nagao died in 1473 before his position was assigned by his boss, Akisada Yamanouchi to his little brother, Tadakage.

The yellow area was influenced by the Uesugi Clan and the purple area was influenced by the Ashikaga Clan at that time, from the signboard at the site

Kageharu Nagao builds Castle

This was a reasonable decision, because Tadakage was considered as a senior and experienced person. However, Kagenobu’s son, Kageharu thought otherwise, as the position was inherited by his grandfather and father. Kageharu left the encampment, built Hachigata Castle in 1475, and started a rebellion in 1476. The castle was built on a high cliff at the meeting point of Arakawa River, another large river in the region, and Fukasawagawa River, a peninsula affording natural defense. Though the details of the first stage of the castle are unknown, it would have been easy for Kageharu to attack the Ikkako Encampment which had no guard on its southern side (which faced the castle). Many other retainers, who worried about their own positions in the new power hierarchy, supported Kageharu. The encampment finally collapsed in 1477.

The family crest of the Nagao Clan, called Kuyou-Tomoe (meaning the nine comma-shaped figures)

The relief map around the castle

The Arakawa River and the cliffs behind, where the castle was built

What Kageharu really wanted was unclear, but he tried to get many territories with his supporters and the Ashikaga Clan with whom Kageharu took sides. Kageharu was an excellent general. However, the other main retainer for the Ogigayatsu, Dokan Ota was superior to him. Dokan, who is known for building Edo Castle, which would become the center of the government during the Edo Period , and is now the Imperial Palace, was also a great strategist and politician. Dokan captured the Kageharu supporters’ castles, such as Kozukue Castle, one by one. He also made brokered a fragile peace with the Ashikaga Clan, which drove Kageharu back to his home base, Hachigata Castle. Dokan finally attacked and captured the castle in 1478, so Kageharu was forced to flee. Dokan became the greatest lord in the Kanto Region, however, he was killed in 1485 by his master, Sadamasa Ogigayatsu who feared his power. The region became unstable again and Kageharu continued to fight against his masters, the Yamanouchi, throughout his life as a soldier of fortune. He finally settled down under Sozui Ise, the founder of the Hojo Clan, until his death in 1514.

The portrait of Dokan Ota, owned by Daijiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The ruins of Edo Castle (the current Imperial Palace)

The replica of the portrait of Soun Hojo, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle becomes Hojo’s Branch

Hachigata Castle was occupied by the Yamanouchi for a while, but eventually abandoned. The power of the Uesugi Clans (Yamanouchi and Ogigayatsu) decreased while the Hojo Clan invaded the Kanto Region during the 16th Century. The Hojo Clan was based in Odawara Castle in Sagami Province (now Kanagawa Pref.) and they set several important branch castles where the Hojo’s relatives were sent to govern the region’s stability. Hachigata Castle was chosen as one of the castles as its location was at the northern edge of their territory. Ujikuni Hojo became the lord of the castle in 1568 and struggled to keep. For example, when the Hojo Clan allied with Kenshin Uesugi who was the successor of the Yamanouchi and one of the strongest warlords, Ujikuni was charged with negotiating with him. However, once the alliance was broken, Kenshin attacked Hachigata Castle, set fire to its castle town, and withdrew.

The family crest of the Hojo Clan, called Hojo-Uroko (meaning the squames of the Hojo)

The portrait of Kenshin Uesugi, owned by the Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ujikuni Hojo, Last Lord of Castle

To survive under these severe conditions, Ujikuni greatly improved the castle. The castle’s defenses were naturally strong, having been built on a tall cliff, sandwiched by the two rivers to the north, the east, and the west. It also had many enclosures made of soil, mainly including the Main, Second and Third Enclosures in a line from north to south. Therefore, enemies would have to attack the Third Enclosure first from the south. To prevent attack, these enclosures were divided by deep dry moats and surrounded by high, thick earthen walls. Part of the walls were supported by stone mounds looking like stone walls. The entrances of the enclosures were protected by a set of gates and the Umadashi system. The Umadashi system refers to a connected smaller enclosure in front of the gate, connected by a narrow path to the larger enclosures. The position could be used to both protect the enclosure and attack from it.

The diorama of the castle at the site, viewed from the north

The history of the castle suddenly ended in 1590 when the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi invaded the Kanto Region as the Hojo’s territory to complete his unification of Japan. He went there with over 200,000 soldiers and about 35,000 of which, attacked Hachigata Castle in May, led by Toshiie Maeda. Ujikuni, along with about 3,000 defenders, was besieged for a month. The attackers didn’t assaulted the castle, directly, instead, it is said that they fired large guns from Kuruma-yama Mountain, about 1 km away from the Main Gate of the castle to the south. Ujiie finally surrendered and opened the castle in June, perhaps because there was no hope for reinforcements, or due to the damage from the guns. The castle passed to the Tokugawa Clan, who now ran the region instead of the Hojo Clan, however, it was eventually abandoned at the end of the Sengoku Period.

The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The Kuruma-yama Mountain seen from the Outer Enclosure

To be continued in “Hachigata Castle Part2”