earthen wall – ページ 10 – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

135.Masuyama Castle Part3

Tonami City develops the ruins very well.

Features

Second Enclosure, Center of Castle

You will finally reach the Second Enclosure which had the only stone walls in the castle. They are more difficult to see now with the signpost saying the ruins of the stone walls.

The enclosure is the largest and the highest positioned enclosure in the castle, and it is surrounded by the thick earthen walls. For these reasons, historians have often speculated that this enclosure was the main one of the castle, though it is traditionally called “The Second Enclosure”.

The map around the Second Enclosure (from the location map at the site)

The earthen walls surrounding *the Second Enclosure*

The enclosure also has a mound called Shorodo or the ruins of the Bell Tower where a miniature version of the bell is built now. A turret was most likely there. You can see the next enclosure called the Ajichi Residence over the large deep dry moat form the mound.

The Ajichi Residence that can been seen over the large deep dry moat

Later History

After Masuyama Castle was abandoned, the Kaga Domain owned the ruins of the castle and planted cedar trees during the Edo Period. The cedar trees have been known as the Masuyama Sedars. Tonami City which now owns the ruins started to investigate them in 1987 and excavated them between 1997 and 2003. As a result, the ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 2009. The city has been developing the ruins as a historical site so that visitors can visit them more easily.

The miniature model of the castle ruins, exhibited by Tonami City **History and Folklore Museum**

My Impression

I think that the ruins of Masuyama Castle are very good study materials for visitors to learn more about what mountain castles were. If ruins of a mountain castle were left alone, it would return to its natural form. Trees and bushes would grow thick and the structures of the castle would collapse. That means visitors are often not sure what the mountain castle looked like or visiting the ruins can be dangerous. However, in the case of Masuyama Castle, Tonami City has developed the ruins to make it easier for visitors to learn more information. For example, bushes are always cut alongside the route. Simple wooden fences and the signboard are built at each enclosure. Therefore, visitors can understand what the layout of the castle would have been and how the defenders would have protect themselves. That’s why I recommend visiting the ruins.

The wooden fences built in the F Enclosure

Looking down the F Enclosure from the Umanosego Enclosure

How to get There

I recommend using a car when you visit the ruins.
It is about 20 minutes away from Tonami IC on the Hokuriku Expressway.
You can park at the information center (Masuyama Jinya).
If you want to use public transportation, you can take a taxi from Tonami Station.
To get to Tonami Station from Tokyo: Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen super express and transfer at Shin-Takanoka Station to the Johana Line.

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Masuyama Castle Part1”
Back to “Masuyama Castle Part2”

4.Hirosaki Castle Part2

The castle remains in nearly its original range.

Features

From Outer Moat to Third Enclosure

Surprisingly, almost all the range of Hirosaki Castle remains as Hirosaki Park.

The aerial photo around the castle, it looks almost the same as the old illustration of the castle below.

Part of the illustration of Hirosaki Castle in Tsugaru District, in the Edo Period, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan

If you visit the park from the south such as Hirosaki Station, you will enter the Main Gate at the Third Enclosure surrounded by the earthen walls and the Outer Moat. You will also find huge amount of cherry trees planted on the earthen walls and can imagine beautiful cherry blossoms even if it is not spring.

Around the Outer Moat with cherry trees planted

The gate is one of the two remaining gate buildings at the enclosure. You may also find the gate turning to the other side not facing you. This is because other castles built in the same period as Hirosaki Castle usually have a gateway with two gate buildings. The first one is facing the visitors and the second one is turning to other the side. The two buildings form a square space with other walls to protect the castle, called “Masugata”. In the case of Hirosaki Castle, the first one was omitted, which has a very unique style.

An example of the Masugata style from the restored Yamanote-mon Gate of Kofu Castle

There is an Information Center in the enclosure.

Second Enclosure still has all its Gates and turrets

The aerial photo of around the Second Enclosure

You will walk inside, then see the Second Enclosure surrounded by the earthen walls and the Central Moat. It is also amazing that the two gates and three Three-Story Turrets of the enclosure all remain now. These turrets have cooper plate roof tiles, which make them look thin. The combination of the turrets and the earthen walls also look very good. There is an Information Center in the enclosure.

The remaining Second Enclosure South Gate

The remaining Second Enclosure Tatsumi Turret

The remaining Second Enclosure Hitsuji-saru Turret

Main Enclosure where Main Tower was once moved

The aerial photo around the Main Enclosure

You will soon reach the Main Enclosure with the remaining Main Tower inside the Inner Moat. In fact, the stone walls on the eastern side of the enclosure are being repaired (as of Sep 2021). This is because the surface of the stone walls are inflated that might collapse if there’s an earthquake.

The stone walls of the Main Enclosure which are being restored

For this reason, the Main Tower was once moved from the stone wall base at the southeast corner to the center of the enclosure. Therefore, you can see the Main Tower close by. The two sides of the tower that faces the outside are much decorated. On the other hand, the other sides facing the inner part are very simple. It might be for that the tower was at first built as a substitute, anyway it’s so interesting.

The present stone wall for the Main Tower without it

The sides of the Main Tower which are decorated

The sides of the Main Tower which are very simple

You can also see the large stone base for the first five-layer Main Tower at the southwest corner in the enclosure. If the weather is fine, you can see a great view of Iwaki-san Mountain from there.

The stone wall base for the first Main Tower

The view could be like this if the weather is fine (taken by u**m from photoAC)

To be continued in “Hirosaki Castle Part3”
Back to “Hirosaki Castle Part1”

4.Hirosaki Castle Part1

A castle which the Tsugaru Clan built and maintained.

Location and History

Tamenobu Tsugaru built Castle with his independence

Hirosaki Castle was located in what is now Hirosaki City in Aomori Prefecture. The castle was actually the origin of the city since the founder of the Hirosaki Domain, Tamenobu Tsugaru built the castle. His former name was Tamenobu Oura and he was one of the relatives of the Nanbu Clan, the greatest warlord in the northern Tohoku Region in the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. However, he aimed to be independent from the Nanbu Clan.

The portrait of Tamenobu Tsugaru, owned by Hirosaki Castle Tower *(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons*)

When the ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi was processing his unification of Japan, Tamenobu met Hideyoshi in 1590, and succeeded to be approved by Hideyoshi as an independent lord. He took advantage of his freedom, and he changed his family name to Tsugaru. After that, he maintained his territory around Tsugaru District (what is now the western part of Aomori Pref.) to support the Tokugawa Shogunate. Finally, he started to build a new castle in the Tsugaru Plain as his new home base in 1603, called Hirosaki Castle.

The location of the castle

Hirosaki Castle was built on a hill on the plain sandwiched by two rivers, Iwaki-gawa and Tsuchibuchi-gawa. Though Tamenobu unfortunately died soon after the launch of the construction, his son, Nobuhira completed it in 1611.

The portrait of Nobuhira Tsugaru, from the database of Historiographical Institute The University of Tokyo (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Tsuchibuchi-gawa River which flows in the city area now

Combination of Modern and Traditional parts

The castle had the Iwaki-gawa River on the back in the west side, and several enclosures spread towards the north, the east and the south, divided by water moats. The Main Enclosure was the center of the castle having the five-layer Main Tower and the Main Hall for the lord. The enclosure was all surrounded by stone walls, so was the most modernized place in the castle.

The Main Enclosure of Hirosaki Castle from the illustration of Hirosaki Castle in Tsugaru District, exhibited by the National Archives of Japan

The Western Moat which originates from a branch of Iwaki-gawa River

The Second Enclosure was outside the Main Enclosure in the south and the east, where the halls for the senior vassals were built. The enclosure was surrounded by earthen walls which were the common method for castles in eastern Japan. It also had two gates and three three-story turrets to protect it. The Third Enclosure was the outermost and the largest one is in the castle. It had warriors’ residences and was also surrounded by earthen walls with two gates. One of the gates was the Main Gate in the south. The North Enclosure and the Forth Enclosure were next to the Main Enclosure to protect the north of the castle.

The earthen walls and moat of the Second Enclosure

Main Tower was rebuilt and Castle survived in Meiji Restoration

In 1627, there was an explosion in the Main Tower caused by lightning and an ignition of gunpowder. There had been no main tower for nearly 200 years, but the Hirosaki Domain was allowed by the Shogunate to renovate a three-story turret as the substitute for the Main Tower in1811. This is the present Main Tower we can see today. In 1868 during the Meiji Restoration, the Boshin War between the New Government and the domains supporting Tokugawa Shogunate in the Tohoku Region happened. Many domains fought with the New Government and defeated. However, the Tsugaru Domain supported the New Government from the beginning. That’s why Hirosaki Castle remained intact.

Tsuguakira Tsugaru, the last lord of the Hirosaki Domain (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Hirosaki Castle Part2”