133.Samegao Castle Part1

The final place of the Otate Rebellion and Kagetora Uesugi

Location and History

Branch of Kasugayama Castle

Samegao Castle was located on a mountain in the western part of Echigo Province which is now Nigata Prefecture. It is uncertain when the castle was first built, but in the late 16th Century, it was one of the satellite castles of Kasugayama Castle, the home base of Kenshin Uesugi. Kenshin was one of the greatest warlords at that time in Japan, who built the network of castles to protect his home base. Samegao Castle is, in fact, rather well-known as the final battlefield of the Otate Rebellion and the place of Kagetora Uesugi’s death, who was defeated in the rebellion.

The location of the castle

The portrait of Kenshin Uesugi, owned by the Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The network of the branch castles around Kasugayama Castle exhibited by Joetsu City Buried Cultural Property Center, Samegao Castle is marked by the red circle

Kagetora is adopted from Hojo to Uesugi

Kagetora Uesugi was an adopted child of Kenshin, but had been born as a family member of the Hojo Clan, which fought with Kenshin over the Kanto Region. The reason why Kagetora came to Uesugi was that Uesugi and the Hojo made peace temporarily in 1569 against the Takeda Clan. The Takeda clan broke the alliance of the three clans (Takeda, Imagawa and Hojo) by invading Imagawa territory. The Hojo clan was very angry about it. However, the new alliance between Uesugi and the Hojo lasted for only two years because the Hojo quit and reforged the alliance with the Takeda in 1571. Ordinarily, Kagetora could have been returned to the Hojo, but Kenshin let Kagetora stay as a part of the Uesugi clan for some reason. It is said that Kenshin personally liked Kagetora. Even though no portraits of Kagetora remain, records say he was attractive and looked beautiful.

The imaginary portrait of Kagetora Uesugi, from the signboard at the site

Two adopted sons are against each other after Kenshin’s death

With the cessation of the alliance with the Hojo, Kenshin adopted another son from his relatives, called Kagekatsu Uesugi. Kenshin seemed to hope that Kagetora would support Kagekatsu and they would cooperate with each other. Many historians also say Kenshin had not clearly decided his successor before his sudden death in March 1578. In fact, these two adopted sons lived in the same Kasugayama Castle as if Kagekatsu was the master for a while after their father’s death. However, the situation didn’t allow them to make peace. The trusted vassals of Kagekatsu, who were the core members of the government, supported him. Other local lords in Echigo Province and some warlords outside the province supported Kagetora because he had come from the outside. Kagetora’s parents’ home, the Hojo and its ally, the Takeda especially wanted him to be the successor. That made the two successor candidates battle each other starting in May 1578, which was called the Otate Rebellion.

The portrait of Kagekatsu Uesugi, owned by Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Otate or the Palace, was originally the residence for Norimasa Uesugi, who was a former shogunate deputy for the Kanto Region and Kenshin’s foster father. Kagetora escaped from Kasugayama Castle to the residence, about 5km from the castle. It became his home base during the battle for nearly one year. At the beginning of the battle, Kagetora was superior in terms of support to Kagekatsu until the lord of the Takeda, Katsuyori Takeda came to Echigo Province with his troops to support Kagetora in June. However, Kagekatsu let Katsuyori return to his home by giving a lot of money and promising to cede some territories. After that, the situation reversed as Kagekatsu had many native loyal retainers while Kagetora had few because of his career. Kagekatsu finally made a full-scale attack on the Otate Residence before it fell in March 1579. Kagetora escaped and tried to get to Odawara, his parental familial home base, Odawara Castle. He stopped by a castle of his supporter, Munechika Horie, which would be the place of his death. This place was called Samegao Castle.

The Portrait of Katsuyori Takeda, owned by Koyasan Jimyoin (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The imaginary scene of the Otate Residence’s fall, exhibited by the Hida Historical Village Information Center

Kagetora dies in Samegao Castle

Samegao Castle was a satellite castle, but had a large scale because it was on the way to Shinao Province (now Nagano Pref.), south of Echigo, where Kenshin and Shingen Takeda, who was Katsuyori’s father, often battled each other. It was a typical mountain castle at that time, using natural terrain to make it defensive. Many enclosures made of soil were built on the ridges. They were divided by artificial ditches and connected by narrow paths cut vertically on both sides. The routes through the valleys were zigzagged so that enemies could not attack the castle easily.

The statues of Shingen Takeda (on the left) and Kenshin Uesugi (on the right) at the Kawanakajima Battlefield in Nagano Prefecture
The illustration of Samegao Castle Ruins, from the signboard at the site

Even staying in the strong castle, Kagetora was not able to survive without reinforcement from the outside. He was attacked by Kagekatsu’s pursuing troops right away. Some records say Munechika Horie, the lord of the castle also betrayed Kagetora. Kagetora finally committed Harakiri (ritual suicide) at the age of 26 after the castle buildings were burned by the troops.

The ruins of Samegao Castle

To be continued in “Samegao Castle Part2”

132.Takada Castle Part1

A castle protected by earthen walls and water moats

Location and History

Tadateru Matsudaira built it shortly

Takada Castle was located in Echigo Province (what is now Nigata Province). The Uesgi Clan at Ksugayama Castle owned the province in the late 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. After the clan was transferred to another province, the province was divided by several lords at the beginning of the 17th Century. One of them was the Hori Clan which owned the western part of the province and lived in Fukushima Cstle. However, Hori Clan was fired by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1610. Instead, Tadateru Matsudaira, a son of Ieyasu Tokugawa, the founder of the Shogunate was sent to the castle. He and the Shogunate felt they required a stronger castle, because the tension between the Shogunate and the Toyoyomi Clan got higher. They needed to monitor non-hereditary feudal lords who possibly supported the Toyotomi Clan. The new castle would be called Takada Castle.

The location of the castle

The portrait of Tadateru Matsudaira, owned by the Joetsu City History Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The construction for the castle began in March 1614, and was almost completed in just four months, before the battle between the Shogunate and the Toyotomi Clan happened in October. The Shogunate mobilized thirteen lords including Tadateru’s father-in-law, Masamune Date for the construction. Maybe for the short construction period, Takada Castle had several features. The foundation of the castle was completely made of soil, not using stone walls which were common for building castles at that time. A Main Tower, which was also popular for castles, was not built, the Three-story Turret was built instead.

The remaining earthen walls at the Main Enclosure
The rebuilt Three Story Turret

Protected by Wide Water Moats and High Earthen Walls

However, there was no shortcuts in the construction. The wide and long water moats were built using the flow of several rivers. As a result, the castle was surrounded by the Inner Moat, the Outer Moat, and the opposite flowing rivers. The Third Enclosure was in the Outer Moat, the Second Enclosure was inside the Outer Moat, and The Main Enclosure was inside the Inner Moat. Visitors from the Main Gate outside the Third Enclosure had to go across three bridges to reach the Main Enclosure. Even the clay walls were as high as10m, so the castle had sufficient defense.

The miniature model of Takada Castle (the Joetsu City History Museum)
The earthen walls are still surrounding the Main Enclosure

Lords of Castle were changed several times

Tadateru was one of the 10 lords who had the largest territories in Japan at that
time, however, he was fired by the Shogunate in 1616 for unknown reasons, after the Shogunate eliminated the Toyotomi Clan in 1615. Though it is said that he was rude to his father, it may be due to an internal trouble in the Shogunate. He was exiled at Takashima Castle until he died at the age of 92 in 1683.

Takashima Castle

After some years, Mitsunaga Matsudaira governed the castle for 57 years. He improved farming and business while developing the castle town and transportation. The castle town had become the city area of Joetsu City. However, he was fired by the Shogunate as well in 1681 due to the internal trouble for his successor.

The draft map of Takada Castle, drawn in 1737 (Joetsu City Buried Cultural Property Center)

The aerial photo around the castle and the city area

After that, several clans governed the castle and the area around the Takada Domain. This area has been known for a city having heavy snow, so some people from other areas seemed to have trouble living and communicating. The last lord of the castle was the Sakakibara Clan which owned it from the mid 18th Century to the Meiji Restoration in the late 19th Century.

The present city area covered with snow (taken by v-pro from photoAC)
The Sakaki Shrine which worships Yasumasa Sakakibara, the founder of the Sakakibara Clan

To be continued in “Takada Castle Part2”

32.Kasugayama Castle Part1

The castle of Kenshin Uesugi, the strongest warlord

Location and History

Kenshin Uesugi, Warlord who respected Justice

Kasugayama Caste was located in Echigo Province (what is now Nigata Prefecture), facing the Japan Sea. The castle is well known for one of its lords, Kenshin Uesugi. Kenshin is said to be the strongest warlord in the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. While he fought over 70 battles during his 49-year life, he suffered no obvious defeat.

The location of the castle

The portrait of Kenshin Uesugi, owned by the Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Kenshin also had very unique perspectives which other warlords never had. He never fought to invade other provinces by himself. He only fought with the help of others who were defeated by another warlord. As a result, he fought with a great warlord, Shingen Takeda 5 times on the south of his province. He also went over the mountains to the Kanto Region facing the Pacific Ocean to fight with the Hojo Clan as many as 17 times. Kenshin was a devout Buddhist, remained single all his life, and prayed for victory at the Bishamon-do Hall several days before his battles. He once escaped from the castle and tried to become a Buddhist priest, but his retainers urged him to go back to the castle until he gave up trying to become a priest.

The statues of Shingen Takeda (on the left) and Kenshin Uesugi (on the right) at the Kawanakajima Battlefield (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The restored Bishamon-do Hall

Despite Kenshin’s strength, he was not able to become a ruler. Every time he withdrew from a province after his win, his enemies got their territories back. He is sometimes criticized by historians. However, many history fans still love him as a warlord who respected justice.

The flag of Kenshin Uesugi (taken by 松波庄九郎 from photoAC)

Castle covered with Enclosures and Buildings.

Kasugayama Castle was built using earthworks on an 189m high mountain beside the Kubiki Plain, the western part of Nigata Pref. It is uncertain when the castle was first built, but Tamekage Nagao, Kenshin’s father, improved the castle. The scale of the castle became larger in Kenshin’s period, and the mountain was covered with uncountable enclosures and buildings.

The old drawing of Kasugayama Castle  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The castle consisted of three parts at that time. The main portion of the castle was on the top of the mountain with the front facing the plain on the east. It included the Main Enclosure, the Bisyamon-do Hall, a senior vassal Naoe’s Hall, and Halls for Kenshin’s two adopted sons, Kagekatsu and Kagetora. Next, the Main Route went up from the southeast foot of the mountain to the top. It was a long detour around the mountain, passing the guard house and other senior vassals’ halls such as Kakizaki. Lastly, the Back Route also went up from the northeast foot to Naoe’s Hall. It passed through the Kurogane-mon Gate, the Hall for the Lord, the Sengan-mon Gate and the alternate entrance called Koguchi.

The georama of Kasugayama Castle at Joetsu City Buried Cultural Property Center

The castle might not have had complex defense systems, but it had the network of the branch castles, such as Samegao Castle, to work together when a battle happened.

The network of the branch castles around Kasugayama Castle (Joetsu City Buried Cultural Property Center)

Abandoned at Peaceful Time

After Kenshin died in 1578, an internal battle unfortunately happened in the castle between Kagekatsu and Kagetora. Kagekatsu finally won, but he was transferred to Wakamatsu Castle by the ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi in 1598. After that, the Hori Clan governed the castle, building the outer earthen walls called So-gamae to make the castle the largest. However, the clan moved to Fukushima Castle on the plain for convenience of governance in 1607. Kasugayama Castle was abandoned at the same time.

The portrait of Kagekatsu Uesugi, owned by Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The restored outer earthen walls

To be continued in “Kasugayama Castle Part2”