Gassan-Toda castle – 日本200名城バイリンガル (Japan's top 200 castles and ruins)

72.Yoshida-Koriyama Castle Part1

The castle grew as Motonari Mori got more power.

Location and History

Home Base of Generations of Mori Clan

Yoshida-Koriyama Castle was located in Aki Province which is modern day the western part of Hiroshima Prefecture. It was also located in a central mountainous area in the Chugoku Region. It started off as a small mountain castle on one ridge of Koriyama Mountain, which was built by a local lord of the Mori Clan sometime in the Middle Ages. The lord of the clan in the Sengoku Period, Motonari Mori developed the castle covering the whole mountain as he governed almost all the region, he became a great warlord.

The range of Aki Province and the location of the castle

The Mori Clan had been basically a typical local lord which governed Yoshida manor since the 13th Century. As time passed by, their relatives became the clan’s senior vassals such as the Fukuhara and Katsura Clans. Even in the beginning of the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period, the lord of the clan lived in the small Yoshida-Koriyama Castle while the senior vassals lived in their own castles or halls. On the other hand, they had a strong allegiance. This was one of the reasons why they were finally successful in the region.

The relief map around the castle, the home bases of the senior vassals were in different places from the castle

Motonari has many Difficulties

When Motonari first entered Yoshida-Koriyama Castle to become the lord of the clan in 1524, the situation was already bad. The previous lords all died young, as a result, the power of the clan continued to decrease. In addition, the Aki Province was divided by about 30 small local lords like Motonari. Meanwhile, strong warlords were growing in power as the Ouchi Clan in Suo Province, west of Aki, and the Aamago Clan in Izumo Province, north of Aki. The local lords in Aki had to support either clan, otherwise, they would have been defeated. The Mori Clan supported the Amago Clan, however, the clan tried to remove Motonari from being the successor and supported another person whom they can easily control. However, Motonari somehow survived with his senior vassals’ support.

The portrait of Motonari Mori, owned by Mori Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The portrait of Tsunehisa Amago, the lord of the clan at that time, owned by Doukouji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To survive under these difficult situations, Motonari acted like a mediator, not a ruler, in his province. For example, he proposed making a peace treaty with the competitive Shishido Clan in his province by marrying his daughter with the clan’s successor. The clan eventually became another senior vassal of Motonari. He also made alliances with local lords in Aki and Bingo (east of Aki) Provinces with a round-robin contract. A round-robin contract is an equal opportunity for everyone involved with no true leader. He always managed to persuad his three son’s Takamoto, Motoharu and Takakage to be united for the clan’s prosperity (That would create the popular episode, called Three Arrows, sometime later. It refers that Motonari tried to demonstrate the strength of teamwork by using arrows. First, he asked them to break one arrow which was easy. However, when he asked them to break all three arrows at the same time, it was impossible. This was to show his 3 sons that working together was better than working independently.). After that, he sent Motoharu and Takakage as the successors of the Kikkawa and Kobayakawa Clans which also became his relatives. However, he sometimes decided to fight, for instance, when he defeated his senior vassal, the Inoue Clan because they got out of control.

The portrait of Takamoto Mori, owned by Joeiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The portrait of Takamoto Mori, owned by Waseda University Library Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The portrait of Takakage Kobayakawa, owned by Beisanji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

A big crisis came to Yoshida-Koriyama Castle in 1540 after Motonari changed his allegiance from the Amago Clan to the Ouchi Clan. The Amago Clan with about 30 thousand troops surrounded the castle in September. The castle seemed to look small, but Motonari was besieged with about 8 thousand people including warriors and farmers for 4 months, waiting for the reinforcement from the Ouchi Clan. It finally came in December before the Amago troops had to withdraw. This failure of the Amago Clan was said to be the first sign of their destruction which was done in the battle of Gassan-Toda Castle in 1566 by Motonari.

The portrait of Haruhisa Amago, the lord of the clan at that time, owned by Yamaguchi Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

A distant view of the ruins of Yoshida-Koriyama Castle

*A distant view of Aoyama (on the left) and Mitsuiyama (on the right) Mountains where the Amago troops encamped*

Retainers gather on Whole Mountain

After that, Motonari became a great warlord through many battles, schemes and tricks, such as the Battle of Miyajima against the Sue Clan which followed the Ochi Clan in 1551. During his enterprise, he appointed the his son, Takamoto to be the new leader in 1546, but he still had the power. He moved from the ridge where the castle was first built to the top of the mountain, which would be called the Main Enclosure. Takamoto continued to live in the ridge, which would be called Honjo or the Main Castle, instead of Motonari. However, he eventually moved closer to Motonari by building a new enclosure because it was tough for him to communicate with his father by coming and going. Other retainers also got together on the mountain, as a result, the castle had about 270 enclosures over the mountain as the clan got more power.

The locations of the top and the Main Castle, from the signboard at the site, adding the red letters

“The whole illustration of Koriyama”, *owned by Yamaguchi Prefectural Archives, from the signboard at the site*

Motonari’s grandchild, Terumoto moves to Hiroshima

After the deaths of Takamoto in 1563 and Motonari in 1571, Takamoto’s son, Terumoto Mori followed them. He also improved and modernized the castle by building stone walls, however, he built and moved to his new home base, Hiroshima Castle in 1591. Yoshida-Koriyama Castle was eventually abandoned.

The portrait of Terumoto Mori, owned by the Mori Museum（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）

To be continued in “Yoshida-Koriyama Castle Part2”

174.Ouchi Clan Hall/Konomine Castle Part1

The land of the Ouchi Clan’s prosperity

Location and History

Ouchi Clan builds Town and Hall at Yamaguchi

Ouchi Clan Hall was the homebase of the clan which had great power in western Japan in the Middle Ages. Konomine Castle was a mountain castle near the hall, which the clan built during their last years. The Ouchi Clan was originally an official family of the local government in Suo Province which is modern day part of Yamaguchi Prefecture. The clan got power by supporting the Ashikaga Shogunate in the 14th Century. As a result, the clan became the governors of several provinces in western Japan, including Suo and Nagato as their core, which was equal to Yamaguchi Prefecture. They had a complex relationship with the Shogun. For example, Yoshihiro Ouchi, the lord of the clan in the late 14th Century was given 6 provinces by the Shogun, Yoshimitsu Ashikaga. However, he was beaten and killed by the shogunate in the Oei Rebellion in 1399. That’s because the shogunate wanted to rely on, but sometimes feared the power of the Ouchi Clan.

The range of Suo Province and the location of the castle

The relief map around the castle

The portrait of Yoshimitsu Ashikaga, owned by Rokuonji Temple *(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)*

Ouchi Clan Hall was first built by Yoshihiro’s father, Hiroyo after he set his homebase at Yamaguchi in 1560. Provincial governors often stayed in Kyoto at that time, so they brought the ways of life and cultures from Kyoto when they went back to their homebase. The hall was said to be a typical example of it, being on a square enclosure which was nearly 200m on one side, surrounded by earthen walls and water or dry moats. Not only did it have the Main Hall, but it also had at least three different gardens like a pond garden and a dry landscape or Karesansui, emulating the shogun’s palace. The hall was eventually developed as the clan gained more power, and even a villa was built called Tukiyama Hall in the north. The Yamaguchi town around the hall was also developed and was often called Western Kyoto.

the shogun’s palace drawn on the Folding Screens of Scenes in and around Kyoto (Uesugi Version), owned by Yonezawa City Uesugi Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Part of the Old Map of Yamaguchi, the yellow block in the lower center is Ouchi Clan Hall, and another one above is Tukiyama Hall, exhibited by Yamaguchi City Museum of History and Folklore

The Ouchi Clan continued to grow in power every generation even after they lost the battle in 1399. Norihiro Ouchi, the lord in the middle 15th Century, added Chikuzen Province which had the international Hakata port to his territory. He started to trade with Ming dynasty in China on behalf of the shogun via the port. The Tsukiyama Hall villa was first built as his retreat. Norihiro’s son, Masahiro fought in Kyoto during the Onin War (1467 to 1477) as the main force of the Western Squad for about 10 years. He also stated his clan was a decedent of a prince of Paekche, making their diplomacy and trading smoother and their authority much stronger.

A tea jar excavated at Ouchi Clan Hall Ruins, exhibited by Yamaguchi City Museum of History and Folklore

The whole view of Tukiyama Hall Ruins, exhibited by Yamaguchi City Museum of History and Folklore

Ouchi Clan helps Shogun as Great Warlord

During the Sengoku Period after the Onin War, the Ouchi Clan became one of the greatest warlords. The shogun’s power decreased however, and he could not survive without help from a great warlord. For example, the 10th Ashikaga Shogun Yoshitane was banished by the Hosokawa Clan from Kyoto. The banished shogun went to Yamaguchi in 1500, where Masahiro’s son, Yoshioki governed. Yoshioki invited Yoshitane to the Ouchi Clan Hall for dinner. It was called one of the greatest dinners in the Middle Ages, with 32 courses and over 110 dishes. Yoshitane spent 14 hours (from 2pm to 4am) enjoying the dinner that day. In 1508, Yoshioki went to Kyoto with Yoshitane with large troops so that Yoshitane came back to the shogun. The shogun rewarded Yoshioki by giving him Yamashiro Province including Kyoto and a Court noble rank.

The portrait of Yoshioki Ouchi, owned by Yamaguchi Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The portrait of Yoshitane Ashikaga, owned by Tokyo National Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Replicas of a dinner served at Ouchi Clan Hall, exhibited by Yamaguchi City Museum of History and Folklore

The power of the Ouchi Clan reached its peak when Yoshioki’s son, Yoshitaka became the lord. They managed to govern 4 provinces (Nagato, Suo, Chikuzen, and Buzen) and was invading 3 provinces at the same time (Iwami, Aki, and Bingo). Yamaguchi town prospered more while Kyoto continued to be devastated as the power of the shogunate continued to decrease. Many nobles, high priests, and intellectuals managed to escape from Kyoto and Yamaguchi accommodated them. Even, a famous missionary of the Society of Jesus, Francisco Xavier visited the town twice. He gave a tribute to Yoshitaka instead of the Emperor of Kyoto so that he would be allowed to take Christianity to Japan. He seemed to consider Yoshitaka as the king of the country.

The portrait of Yoshitaka Ouchi, owned by Ryufukuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The portrait of Francisco Xavier, owned by Kobe City Museum *(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)*

Ouchi Clan builds Konomine Castle, but declines

However, a bad sign came to Yoshitaka in 1543. He failed to capture Gassan-Toda Castle, the homebase of the Amago Clan in Izumo Province. There were also internal conflicts between the senior vassals, officers and dependent people from the outside, which Yoshitaka didn’t notice. In 1551, a senior vassal, Takafusa Tou rebelled against Yoshitaka. Yoshitaka managed to escape from Ouchi Clan Hall, tried to board a ship, but failed, and finally he committed Harakiri.

After that, the situation changed significantly. Takafusa helped Yoshitaka’s relative, Yoshinaga being the new lord of the Ouchi Clan, but he was unfortunately defeated in 1555 by Motonari Mori, the lord of Yoshida Koriyama Castle in Aki Province. Yoshinaga built Konomine Castle on a mountain near the hall to protect themselves when he noticed that the Mori Clan could invade his territory. The clan actually did it in 1557, so Yoshinaga stayed in the castle. The castle was good defensively, but could not survive without reinforcement and supply. He managed to escape to another site, but could not do anything to counter, and finally he committed Harakiri like Yoshitaka, which meant the destruction of the Ouchi Clan. It was unknown when the Ouchi Clan Hall was burned down. Konomine Castle was used by the Mori Clan until it was abandoned in 1615 due to the One Castle per Province Law by the Tokugawa Shogunate.

The red solid model of Konomine Castle, exhibited by Yamaguchi City Museum of History and Folklore

To be continued in “Ouchi Clan Hall/Konomine Castle Part2”

65.月山富田城～Gassan-Toda Castle

この大きな山城は、過酷な籠城戦を戦い抜きました。
This large mountain castle fought severe sieges.

月山富田城の中心部～The center of Gassan-Toda Castle

立地と歴史～Location and History

山陰地方は現在、どちらかというと地味なイメージがあります。しかしながら、近代以前、この地方は人口面でも経済面でも繁栄していました。かつては沿岸航海が主要な交通手段でした。この地方の都市はこの経路に沿っていました。ここには石見銀山もあり、世界遺産になっています。戦国時代には、この鉱山からの銀は世界の３分の１のシェアがあったと言われています。山陰には鉄鉱山とその関連産業まであって、武器製造に生かされました。
San-in region now has a comparatively quiet image. However, before the Modern Ages, the region flourished in both population and economy. Sailing along the coast was a major way of transportation. The cities in the region were among the route. It also had Iwami Silver Mine, which has become a World Heritage Site. It is said that the silver from the mine was shared with one third of the world in the Warring States Period. San-in even had iron mines and relative industries which could produce weapons.

山陰地方の関連史跡の位置～The location of relative historic sites in San-in region

尼子氏はこの３つの重要資源を握っていて、有力な戦国大名となりました。月山富田城はもっと以前からあったのですが、尼子経久が１５世紀後半にこの城を拡張しました。
The Amago clan had three important resources, then became great warlords. Though Gassan-Toda Castle was founded in earlier times, Tsunehisa Amago improved the castle in the late 15th century.

尼子経久肖像画、洞光寺蔵～The portrait of Tsunehisa Amago, owned by Doukouji Temple（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）

城は、靴のような形の月山の上に築かれました。そこには約５００の曲輪があり、城下町の民衆を収容できるようになっていました。靴の形の甲の部分にあたる、城の中心である山中御殿に至るには３つのルートがありました。詰め城である本丸、二の丸、三の丸の各曲輪は、靴の形の頂点の部分にあり、御殿とは「七曲り」と呼ばれるたった一本の曲がりくねった山道でつながっていました。尼子は支城のネットワークも作り、本拠地の月山富田城を支えていました。
It was on Mt. Gassan, which looks like a shoe. It had about five hundred enclosures and could accommodate people in the castle town. There were three routes to reach Sanchu hall, the center of the castle, which was located on the upper part of the shoe shape. The last area of the castle, Honmaru, Ninomaru and Sannonaru enclosures were on the top part of the shoe shape, connected with the hall by only one zigzagged trail called “Nana-magari”. Amago made a network of branch castles as well to support the home base Gassan-Toda.

月山～Mt. Gassan（licensed by 安来市政策秘書課 via Wikimedia Commons）

月山富田城絵図（模写）、安来市立歴史資料館蔵～GassanｰToda Castle old map (replica), owned by Yasugi City History Museum（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）

大内氏がこの城を１５４３年に攻撃しましたが、失敗し撤退しました。このことで大内氏の影響力が低下し、１５５１年の滅亡につながりました。大内氏の後継である毛利氏はより慎重に準備しました。毛利はあらかじめ尼子から石見銀山と支城を奪いました。毛利元就は、１５６５年に約３万の軍勢をもってこの城を攻撃しました。この攻撃は、尼子義久と約１万の守兵により再び退けられました。元就は戦術を変え、城を包囲し、多くの砦を築きました。この包囲戦は１年７ヶ月続きます。元就は尼子に内輪揉めを仕掛け、兵糧も尽きたため、義久はついに降伏しました。
The Ouchi clan attacked the castle in 1543, but failed and withdrew. It reduced their influence, and led to the destruction of the clan in 1551. The Mori clan following Ouchi, prepared more carefully. Mori took Iwami Mine and the branch castles away from Amago in advance. Motonari Mori with about 30,000 soldiers attacked the castle in 1565. This attack was repelled by Yoshihisa Amago with 10,000 defenders as well. Motonari changed his tactic, and surrounded the castle, building many fortresses. The siege lasted for one year and seven months. In the end, Yoshihisa surrendered after Motonari caused internal trouble in Amago, and supplies ran out.

毛利元就肖像画、毛利博物館蔵～The portrait of Motonari Mori, owned by Mori Museum（*licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）*

尼子の遺臣である山中鹿之助は１５６９年に尼子の仇を討とうとしました。彼は６千の同志とともにこの城を攻撃しましたが、そのときにはたった３００名の守兵しかいませんでした。ところが城は持ちこたえ、毛利からの援軍が到着したことで鹿之助は撤退せざるを得なくなります。
The surviving retainer of Amago, Shikanosuke Yamanaka tried to avenge his clan in 1569. He attacked the castle with 6,000 supporters, while just 300 defenders were in the castle. However, the castle withstood the attack. Shikanosuke had to give up when reinforcements for Mori arrived.

山中鹿之助肖像画部分*、安来市立歴史資料館蔵*～Part of the portrait of Shikanosuke Yamanaka, owned by Yasugi City History Museum（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）

徳川氏の統治となって、１６００年に堀尾氏がこの城に移されてきました。彼らは本拠地を新しい城、松江城に移すことにしました。月山富田城は１６１１年に廃城となります。
During the Tokugawa clan’s governance, the Horio clan was transferred to the castle in 1600. They decided to move their base to a new one called Matsue Castle. Gassan-Toda castle was abandoned in 1611.

月山富田城の遺跡～The ruins of Gassan-Toda Castle

特徴～Features

現在、観光客の人たちは通常、道の駅「広瀬・富田城」近くの、三つの登り口の一つ、菅谷口から登り始めます。山中御殿跡までたどり着くのに、いくつもの曲がりくねった道、曲輪、堀、そして関門を超えていかねばなりません。
Now, visitors usually start to climb up from Sugatani Route, one of three routes to the castle, near the roadside station “Hirose-Todajo”. You have to climb over several winding roads, enclosures, moats and gates to reach Sanchu hall ruins

城周辺の航空写真～The aerial photo around the castle

道の駅「広瀬・富田城」を見下ろします～Looking down the roadside station “Hirose-Todajo”

その途中には鹿之助の銅像もあります。
You can see the statue of Shikanosuke on the way.

山中鹿之助銅像～The statue of Shikanosuke Yamanaka

山中御殿の前には、花の壇曲輪の上に復元された木造建物があります。
There are also restored wooden buildings on Hananodan enclosure in front of Sanchu hall.

花の壇曲輪に向かいます～going to Hananodan enclosure

花の壇にある復元された木造建築物～The restored wooden buildings on Hananodan

城の主は通常は御殿の方に住んでいました。
The lords of the castle usually lived in the hall.

花の壇から見た城の中心部～The center of the castle from Hananodan

城で戦いが起こったときには、七曲りの山道を通って頂上の方に移動しました。尼子と毛利は、この山道を巡って戦ったと言われています。
When a battle happened there, they moved to the top area through Nanamagari trail. It is said that Aamago and Mori fought each other along the trail.

頂上の区域は、手前から奥に向かって三の丸、二の丸、本丸となっています。想像していたよりずっと広かったです。それで尼子は長い間持ちこたえられたのでしょう。
The top area includes Sannomaru, Ninomaru and Honmaru from the front to the back. The area is larger than I expected. That might make Amago keep the castle for a long time.

手前が二の丸、奥が本丸～The front is Ninomaru, the back is Honmaru

本丸から二の丸を見ています～Looking at Ninomaru from Honmaru

頂上からは海まで広がる地域一帯を見渡せます。尼子もまたここから自らの領地を見下ろしたことでしょう。
You can see a great view of the area below to the sea, from the top. Amago must have looked over this territory, too.

城の前部と町を見下ろします～Looking over the front of the castle and the town

その後～Later Life

城跡は１９３４年に国の史跡に指定されました。また自治体も歴史公園として整備を行ったことで、気軽に訪れることができるうようになっています。
The castle ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1934. In more recent years, they were also developed as a historical park by officials. We can easily visit them.

七曲りの道も舗装されています～Even Nanamagari trail is paved

私の感想～My Impression

御籠り口と呼ばれるもう１つの城への登り口は車で通行可能です。今日では、山中御殿の近くにある駐車場まで車で行くことができます。でもお時間があれば、是非全部の行程を歩いて、城の大きさを実感していただきたいです。
Another route for the castle called Okomori Route is available for cars. Today, you can reach the parking lot near Sanchu hall by car. But, I recommend you to walk all the way on foot and feel how large the castle was, if you have time.

山中御殿跡近くの駐車場～The parking lot near Sanchu Hall Ruins

ここに行くには～How to get There

ここに行くには車がお勧めです。山陰自動車道安来ＩＣから約２０分、ＪＲ安来駅から約２０分かかります。安来駅には米子空港から米子駅経由の電車で１時間前後かかります。
I recommend using a car to get there. It takes about 20 minutes from the Yasugi IC on Sanin Expressway, or about 20 minutes from JR Yasugi Station. The station is around one hour from Yonago Airport by train via Yonago Station.

リンク、参考情報～Links and References

・安来観光協会、月山富田城跡～Yasugi City Official Travel Guide
・「尼子氏の城郭と合戦」寺井毅著、戒光祥出版（Japanese Book）