89.Saga Castle Part1

The Saga Domain contributed to the modernization of Japan.

Location and History

Nabeshima Clan develops Castle as Home Base

Saga Castle was located in what is now Saga City, the prefectural capital of Saga Prefecture. The castle was originally named Muranaka Castle and built by the Ryuzoji Clan which was a great power in the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. However, the power of the clan decreased after it was defeated by the Shimazu Clan in the Battle of Okita-nawate in 1584. Instead, the Nabeshima Clan, a senior vassal of the Ryuzoji Clan, got the power and was finally assigned as the lord of the Saga Domain by the Tokugawa Shogunate. The Nabeshima Clan improved Muranaka Castle sometime in the early 17th Century, when it was renamed Saga Castle.

The location of the castle

The portrait of Naoshige Nabeshima, the founder of the Saga Domain, owned by Nabeshima Houkoukai  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The castle was built in the riverside area on the Saga Plain. The castle mainly consisted of the Main, Second and Third Enclosures, which were surrounded together by the large Outer Moat. The Main and Second Enclosures were connected directly in the southeastern part of the castle, separated from the Third Enclosure by the Inner Moat. Only the Main Enclosure was surrounded by stone walls, but others were surrounded by earthen walls. The Main Enclosure also consisted of the Main Tower, but its details are uncertain, as most of the castle buildings were burned down by a great fire in 1726. After that, the center of the castle was at the Main Hall on the Second Enclosure. However, it was burned down as well due to another significant fire in 1835.

The illustration of Saga Caste, from the signboard aft the site, adding my comments
The Main Enclosure including the Main Tower and Main Hall, featured in the illustration above

Naomasa Nabeshima modernizes Saga Domain

Much focus was on the Saga Domain and Saga Castle at the end of the Edo Period. The domain had been responsible for the police escort in Nagasaki which was the only official international port in Japan at that time. However, they failed and allowed a British ship, whose crew started a riot in the port in 1808, known as the Phaeton Incident. After that, the domain promoted its modernization led by the 10th lord, Naomasa Nabeshima. He governed the domain from the new Main Hall in the Main Enclosure, rebuilt in 1837. Under his leadership, the domain imported the latest cannons from the West and began to produce their own cannons themselves. Surprisingly, they were successful at it for the first time in Japan, which was before the arrival of Matthew Perry’s fleet from the U.S. in 1853. The Tokugawa Shogunate asked Naomasa to provide the domestic cannons for Shinagawa Batteries in Edo Bay which were prepared for the second arrival of Perry. The domain offered 50 cannons.

The statue of Naomasa Nabeshima at the ruins of Saga Castle
The restored Main Hall of the Main Enclosure
One of the replicas of the imported cannons at the ruins of Saga Castle
The ruins of Shinagawa batteries

Saga Domain was relied on due to their modern military power by both the Tokugawa Shogunate and the New Government during the Meiji Restoration. The domain chose to support the New Government, becoming one of the four powerful domains including the Satsuma, Choshu and Tosa. It is said that one reason that the New Government defeated the shogunate was the strong cannons the Saga Domain imported or made. Naomasa became one of the most important politicians at the beginning of the Meiji Era until he died in 1871. Naomasa also promoted his retainer, Shinpei Eto, to another important position in the government before he retired. Shinpei tried to bring the latest social systems from the West – such as education, justice and the idea of a parliamentary system – to Japan to help modernize the country. He has often been recognized as the father of the modern Japanese judicial system.

A picture drawing a battle between New Government Army and the shogunate  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Shinpei Eto, from a book called “Eto Nanpaku vol.1 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Castle is burned during Saga Rebellion

However, lost power and authority to other politicians from Satsuma and Choshu in the political strife in 1873. He returned to Saga, asking for the launch of the parliament by democratic election to form a government. The government leader from Satsuma, Toshimichi Okubo, did not allow Shinpei’s agenda. It has been even said that he feared and envied Shinpei’s excellent abilities which might have overpowered him. Toshimichi intentionally spread the information as if Shinpei was planning to rebel against the government. He also sent his troops to Saga to force Shinpei along with his supporters to fight, known as the Saga Rebellion in 1874. Shinpei was defeated by the government, and subsequently put to death without judicial proceedings by Toshimichi, who ruled as a dictator. Saga Castle was one of the battle locations of the rebellion; unfortunately, most of the castle was burned down, again due to fire, during the battle.

The portrait of Toshimichi Okubo  (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
 The Ukiyoe painting drawing the Saga Rebellion (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Saga Castle Part2”

137.Fukui Castle Part1

The center of Echizen Province

Location and History

It starts as Kitanosho Castle

Fukui Castle was located in what is now Fukui City, the prefectural capital of Fukui Prefecture. The name of the city originates from this castle. However, the castle was originally named Kitanosho Castle (Kitanosho means like the Northern Manor). Katsuie Shibata under a great warlord, Nobunaga Oda, first built the castle in 1575 when they conquered Echizen Province (now part of Fukui Prefecture).

The location of the castle

The portrait of Katsuie Shibata, from the signboard at the site

When Hideyoshi Hashiba, who would become the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attacked the castle in 1583, he wrote in his letter that the castle had a nine-leveled Main Tower. It’s quite uncertain if the castle really had the nine-leveled Main Tower because the word nine-leveled also means just “have many levels” in Japanese. Katsuie was unfortunately defeated by Hideyoshi, while Kitanosho Castle was burned and destroyed.

The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple, licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons
The imaginary drawing of the first Kitanosho Castle, from the signboard at the site

Hideyasu Yuki rebuilds it as Lord of large domain

In 1601, Hideyasu Yuki, the son of the final ruler, Ieyasu Tokugawa, rebuilt Kitanosho Castle as the founder of the Kitanosho Domain. Hideyasu was a big brother of Ieyasu’s successor, Hidetada Tokugawa, but he was sent to Hideyoshi, and the Yuki Clan later to be adopted. It could be because he was not loved by his father, Ieyasu. However, Hideyasu was distinguished in the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600 before his father became the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate. Ieyasu finally accepted Hideyasu and allowed him to have a large role in the shogunate. Hideyasu became a lord who had the second largest territory excluding the shogun in Japan with 750,000 kokus of rice. He was also allowed to use the family name “Matsudaira” which means the relatives of the shogun. Echizen Province was very important spot for the shogunate to be near Kyoto, the capital of Japan, and next to the owners of the largest territory, the Maeda Clan.

The statue of Hideyasu Yuki at the ruins of Fukui Castle
The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum, licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons

It is said that Hideyasu’s father, Ieyasu designed part of the layout of Kitanosho castle. The Main Enclosure was the center of the castle, which had the four-leveled Main Tower and the Main Hall and was surrounded by the stone walls and the Inner Moat. The Second Enclosure, the Third Enclosure, and the Outbound Enclosure were built around the center concentrically. These enclosures were divided by the water moats. As a result, the castle was surrounded by quadruple or quintuple water moats. The castle had over 10 turrets and 40 gates. The size of the castle reached about 2km square.

The imaginary drawing of the Main Enclosure of Fukui Castle, from the signboard at the site
The range of Fukui Castle in the Edo Period shown on the present map, from the signboard at the site

Echizen-Matsudaira Clan prospers

The castle was completed in 1606 after Hideyasu died in 1604. The Matsudaira Clan, renamed from the Yuki Clan governed the castle and domain until the end of the Edo Period, while the name of the castle and domain were changed from Kitanosho to Fukui by the third lord, Tadamasa. The Main Tower was unfortunately burned down by a fire in 1669 and not restored. The 14th lord, Shungaku Matsudaira was active in the central government during the end of the Edo Period and the Meiji Restoration.

The portrait of Tadamasa Matsudaira, exhibited by Fukui City History Museum, licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons
The photo of Shungaku Matsudaira, owned by Fukui City History Museum, licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons

In addition, Hideyasu’s descendants prospered greatly. The branch families which started from Hideyasu’s sons became the lords of several castles by the end of the Edo Period, such as Tsuyama Castle, Matsue Castle, Maebashi Castle and Akashi Castle. They are often called the Echizen-Matsudaira Clan including the lord of Fukui Castle. We can say Hideyasu’s efforts were rewarded good enough.

Tsuyama Castle
Matsue Castle
Akashi Castle

To be continued in “Fukui Castle Part2”

138.Echizen-Ohno Castle Part1

Nagachika Kanamori built the unique Tenshu and the castle town.

Location and History

Nagachika Kanamori, retainer of Nobunaga Oda, builds Castle

Echizen-Ohno Caste was located in Ohno Basin in the eastern part of Echizen Province, what is now Fukui Prefecture. The Asakura Clan governed the province until 1573 during the Sengoku Period when the clan was defeated by Nobunaga Oda. The Ikkoshu Sect once took over the province, but Nobunaga defeated them again in 1575. Nobunaga gave the area around Ohno Basin to his retainer, Nagachika Kanamori, who was distinguished in the battle. This area connected the western, seaside part of the province and Hida Province inland. It was an important area for warlords to govern Echizen Province.

The location of the castle

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century {licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Nagachika Kanamori, owned by Ryogenin Temple {licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Nagachika first lived in Inuyama Castle, a mountain castle beside the basin, which the Asakura Clan used. However, Nagachika decided to build a new castle and its castle town in the basin in 1576 to make his governance stable. He seemed to build both the castle and castle town using advanced methods. These methods were similar to ones used for the historical home bases Komakiyama and Gifu Castles, which were built by his mater, Nobunaga Oda. For example, the new castle called Echizen-Ohno Castle was built with stone walls and the Tenshu building on a hill called Kame-yama in the basin.

Tue ruins of Komakiyama Castle
The present Gifu Castle
The present Echizen-Ohno Castle

Unique Tenshu and Advanced Castle Town

Tenshu basically means the Main Tower in the center of a castle. However, the Tenshu of Echizen-Ohono Castle did not look like a Main Tower. Instead, it looked like three combined halls. This was because the construction of Echizen-Ohno Castle started before the completion of Azuchi Castle in 1579, Nobunaga’s last home base. Azuchi Castle had the first Tenshu building which looked like the Main Tower in Japan. Before that, Tenshu had just meant the center building of a castle. Echizen-Ohno Castle was completed in 1580 and its Tenshu building remained for a long time. However, the Tenshu was unfortunately burned down in 1795 and not restored. If the castle survived, it would be considered quite a unique part of Japanese History and heritage.

The illustration of Echizen-Ohno Castle’s Tenshu, quoted from the leaflet of an exhibition of Ohno City
The miniature model of Azuchi Castle’s Tehshu, exhibited by Azuchi Castle Museum

Nagachika created the castle town in an advanced way as well. The town was divided orderly to accommodate warriors, merchants, craftsmen, and temples separately. Such a way to develop castle towns is commonly seen in those in the next century. His master, Nobunaga Oda created the castle town of Komakiyama from the ground up. Nagachika might have followed his master’s method. However, the Komakiyama castle town was abolished by Nobunaga. The people were forced to move with Nobunaga to his next home base, Gifu Castle. By contrast, the Echizen-Ohno castle town remains today as the city area of Ohno City. Nagachika also created Takayama Castle and Takayama town after he was transferred to Hida Province in 1586. The traditional town has now become a world-class tourist destination.

The miniature model of the castle town distribution at the ruins of Komakiyama Castle
The remaining Echizen-Ohno Castle Town
The streets and residences of Takayama City   (licensed by 663highland via Wikimedia Commons)

Doi Clan governs from Second Enclosure Main Hall

After Nagachika, the lord of the castle changed several times. The Doi Clan governed the castle and the area as the Ohno Domain throughout the Edo Period since 1682. In peaceful times, the lord of the castle lived in the Main Hall in the Second Enclosure at the foot of the mountain. The enclosure was surrounded by a long water moat called Hyakken-bori. The lords rarely used the facilities including the Tenshu on the mountain, called the Main Enclosure, because of the inconvenience of the location. In addition, it would be difficult for officials to govern. That may be why the Tenshu wasn’t restored after the fire.

The introspection model of the Second Enclosure Main Hall, exhibited by the present Echizen-Ohno Castle
The illustration of Echizen-Ohno Castle , exhibited by the present Echizen-Ohno Castle

To be continued in “Echizen-Ohno Castle Part2”