The warriors maintained the castle for a long time.
Features
Umaarai Rock, Second Enclosure and Photo spot
The map around the castle
If you climb down from the top on another route, you can see the biggest rock around, called Umaarai-iwa, just below the Main Tower base, whose perimeter is about 45m. It should make you feel power of nature.
The Uma-arai Rock seen from aboveA side view of the Uma-arai RockThe rock is below the base
The Second Enclosure is far below from the top, where the Main Hall for the lord was in the past. The hall was built hanging out from the enclosure by also using the Kake-zukuri method.
The Second EnclosureThe Second Enclosure is far below from the base
In addition, if you want to take in a great whole view of the ruins, you can take another return route to the photo spot.
You can go the side road to the photo spot, near the soldiers’ barracks ruinsThe photo spot seen from the observation platformA whole view of the ruinsYou can see the base on the top well
Later History
After the Meiji Restoration, Naegi Castle was abandoned and all the buildings of the castle were demolished. The mountain the castle was located on was returning to nature, being covered with trees. However, the ruins of Naegi Castle were designated as a National Historic Site in 1981 because the foundation of the castle ,including its stone walls, remained intact. The ruins recently became popular due to their unique features, such as the combination of natural rocks and stone walls, and great views. Some trees were cut down to see the main portion of the ruins clearly for visitors.
Looking up the baseThe corroboration of the Kake-zukuri columns, stone walls and natural rocks at the base
My Impression
It is said that there were six types of stone walls in Naegi Castle, ranging from the oldest one using natural stones to newer advanced ones. That meant the Naegi Domain continued to build or repair them under the severe living condition for over 250 years in the peaceful Edo Period. I was very impressed by that.
The stone walls piled in a way called Tani-zumi or the Form of a Vally, near the entrance of the ruinsThe stone walls piled in a way called Uchikomi-hagi like piling roughly processed stones, at the Northern Gate Ruins, in the back of the Large Turret RuinsThe stone walls piled in a way called Kirikomi-hagi like piling precisely processed stones, at the Large Turret RuinsThe stone walls piled in a way called Nozura-zumi like piling natural stones, around the starting point to the top
I remember an example of a similar case to Naegi Castle, called Oka Castle in the Kyushu Region. The castle was likewise built on a rocky mountain. It was very defensive but hard to live in, so the warriors immediately disappeared after the Meiji Restoration.
The ruins of Ona Castle
How to get There
I recommend using a car when you visit the castle ruins. It is about a 10-minute drive away from Nakatsugawa IC on the Chuo Expressway. There are several parking lots around the ruins. If you want to use public transportation, you can take the Kita-Ena-Kotsu Bus bound for Tsukechikyo-Kuraya-Onsen or Kashimo-Sogo-jimusho from Nakatsugawa Station and get off at the Naegi bus stop. It takes about 20 minutes on foot from the bus stop to get there. To get to Nakatsugawa Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express and transfer to the Chuo Line at Nagoya Station.
The parking lot of Naegi Toyama Historical MuseumThe parking lot in front of the ruins entrance
武士たちはこの「天空の城」を最後まで守り抜きました。
Warriors protected this “Sky” Castle till the end.
三の丸の高石垣～The high stone walls of Sannomaru
立地と歴史～Location and History
岡城には有名な古の武将、源義経にまつわる伝説があるのですが、定かではありません。南北朝時代になって、大友氏配下の志賀氏が最初にこの城を築いたと言われています。この城は、現在の大分県の「天神山」という岩山にあり、大野川と稲葉川という二つの川に挟まれていて、それらがこの城を難攻不落たらしめていました。事実、戦国時代後半に島津氏の攻撃を三度に渡り撃退しています。
Oka Castle has a legend about its origin of a famous ancient general, Yoshitsune Minamoto. However it is uncertain. It is said that in the period of Northern and Southern Courts, the Shiga clan under Otomo clan first built the castle. The castle was located on a rocky mountain called “Tenjin-Yama” in now Oita Prefcture, sandwiched by two rivers, “Ono-Gawa” and “Inaba-Gawa” making it impregnable. Actually, the castle repelled the Simadu clan’s attacks three times in the late Warring States Period.
城周辺の地図～The normal map around the castle
城周辺の起伏地図～The relief map around the castle
豊臣氏の支配下、中川秀茂が城主として派遣されました。城の範囲は山の全域に広がりました。彼はまた、天守、高石垣、そして大手門、近戸門、下原門という三つの門を作りました。そして城の西の方に、「竹田」という新しい城下町も作りました。
Under the Toyotomi clan’s governance, Hideshige Nakagawa was sent as the lord of the castle. The range of the castle was spread to the entire mountain. He also built the Tenshu keep, high stone walls and three entrance gates – Ote-Mon, Chikado-Mon, and Shimobaru-Mon”. He created the new castle town called “Taketa” in the west.
中川秀茂肖像画、碧雲寺蔵～The portrait of Hideshige Nakagawa, owned by Hekiunji Temple（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
彼の子孫は、城と城下町を江戸時代を通して統治しました。そして戦いの準備のため、きびしい決まりを維持したのです。例えば、彼らは山の上の不便な住居に暮らし続けました。訪問者は門で厳密にチェックされ、入城を許されても藩士が常に付いて回りました。城内の畳は、籠城のときの食料とするため甘芋蔓によって作られました。岡城は山の上にあるため、頻繁な修繕を必要とします。更には火事や地震にも度々襲われました。その結果年貢は重くなり、百姓は「四原一揆」として知られる一揆を起こしたりしました。
His descendants continued to govern the castle and the town all through the Edo Period. They kept their strict rules to prepare for a battle. For example, they were living in inconvenient residences on the mountain. Visitors were checked very strictly at the gates, even if permitted to enter, clansmen always attended to them. Tatami mats were made from sweet-potato vines for food in case of a siege. Because Oka Castle was on the mountain it needed frequent maintenance. It often suffered from disasters like fires and earthquakes. Because of this taxes were high. The farmers rioted in an incident known as “Yoharu Ikki”
豊後国直入郡岡城絵図、江戸時代～The illustration of Oka Castle in Naoiri District, Bungo Province, in the Edo Period（出典：国立公文書館）
特徴～Features
現在、岡城の城跡には建物は残されていません。でも独特の雰囲気が漂っています。通常は遺跡の正門である「大手門」から入ります。石造りの曲がりくねった坂道が門の跡に通じています。
Presently, the ruins of Oka Castle have no buildings, but have a unique atmosphere. Visitors usually enter from the ruins of the main gate “Otemon”. A zigzagged slope made of stones leads you to the gate ruins.
岡城の正面入り口～The main entrance of Oka Castle
道の石造りの手すりは丸みを帯びていて「かまぼこ石」と呼ばれています。それはまた苔むしていて、とても美しく見えます。 Its stone fences are round-shaped and called semicylindrical stone “Kamaboko-Ishi”. They are also mossy and look very beautiful.
「かまぼこ石」と呼ばれる手すり～The stone fences called “Kamaboko-Ishi”苔生した石垣と手すり～The mody stone walls and fences
門を過ぎると、「西の丸」と呼ばれた比較的広い場所があり、江戸時代には藩主の住む御殿がここにありました。 Passing through the gate, there is a relatively wide place called “Nishi-no-Maru” where the main hall for the lord was in the late Edo Period.
大手門跡～The ruins of Ote-Mon西の丸跡～The ruins of Nishi-no-Maru
城跡の真ん中辺り、山が狭くなっている所が城の中心部分で高石垣に囲まれています。特に「三の丸」にある高石垣が観光客の間で有名です。でも、写真を撮るときは足元に十分気を付けてください。
In the center, you can see the main part of the ruins on a narrow hill surrounded by high stone walls. In particular, the ones in “San-no-Maru” are very popular among tourists. However, watch your step when taking pictures.
三の丸高石垣をもう一枚～Another shot of Sannomaru high stone walls
阿蘇山といった周りの景色の眺めも素晴らしいです。
You can also enjoy the surrounding landscape such as Mt.Aso.
城跡から見た阿蘇山の眺め～A view of Mt. Aso from the ruins of the castle大野川に沿った道路を見下ろす～Overlooking the road along Ono River
城跡の裏側には「下原門」があります。この門は、志賀氏がいた時代には正面口として使われていました。
The back of the ruins are the gate “Shimobaru-Mon”. The gate was used as the main entrance in the Shiga clan’s Era.
下原門跡～The ruins of Shimobaru-Mon
反対側に戻ったら、通用門として使われた「近戸門」から外に出てみてはいかがでしょう。通用門といっても石組は精巧に作られています。「七曲り」と呼ばれた外に続くつづら折りは、石垣と石畳によりすごく見栄えがします。 Going back to the opposite, why not come out of the ruins of the gate “Chikado-Mon” which was used for the side gate, but its stone base has been elaborated. The outside winding road called “Nana-Magari” is good looking with stone walls and stone pavement.
近戸門跡～The ruins of Chikado-Mon近戸門につながる道～The road connecting Chikado-Mon近戸門下のつづら折り～The winding road under Chikado-Mon
Later Life
明治維新後、城を維持する必要はなくなりました。武士だった人たちは皆この不便な住居から町の方に移っていきました。城は荒廃しました。全ての建物は二束三文で売られていきました。若き作曲家、滝廉太郎はこの城跡を見て、有名な「荒城の月」を作りました。二の丸の地に彼の銅像があります。
After the Meiji Restoration, there was no need for keeping the castle. Former warriors all moved to town from this inconvenient residence. The castle ran to ruin. All the buildings in it were sold at a low price. A young composer, Rentaro Taki created a famous song called “Moon over the Ruined Castle” “Kojo-no-Tsuki” after looking at the ruins. You can see his statue at Ni-no-Maru.
二の丸跡にある滝廉太郎像～The statue of Rentaro Taki in the ruins of Ninomaru（licensed by As6673 via Wikipedia Commons）
地元の人たちは、１８８６年に最初に記念碑をこの地に建てました。１９３６年には、城跡は国の史跡に指定されます。現在、ここは桜の名所としても有名です。 Local people built the first monument in the ruins in 1886. They were designated as a National Historic Site in 1936. Now, they are known for cherry blossoms as well.
岡城跡の桜～The cherry blossoms in the ruins of Oka Castle（taken by kotoM from photoAC）
私の感想～My Impression
３００年近くもの間、平和な江戸時代の間でさえ武士たちが岡城に住み続けたことにとても驚きました。彼らは長い間いつ起こるかわからない戦争のために備えていたのです。城を離れなければいけなくなったとき、武士たちがどう思ったのか知りたいところです。
I was surprised to know that warriors had been living in Oka Castle for nearly 300 years, even in the peaceful Edo Period. They were prepared for an unexpected war for a long time. I wish I was able to know how they felt when they had to leave the castle.
岡城の断崖～The cliff of Oka Castle
ここに行くには～How to get There
ＪＲ豊後竹田駅から歩いて３０分近くかかります。 大分空港から臼杵駅まで： 大分駅行き空港アクセスバス（エアライナー）に乗り、大分駅でＪＲ豊肥本線に乗り換えてください。 車で行く場合：大分自動車道大分光吉ＩＣから約６０分、または九州自動車道熊本ＩＣから約９０分。城跡には大きな駐車場があります。 It takes nearly 30 minutes From JR Bungo-Taketa station to get there on foot. From Oita Airport to Bungo-Taketa st.: Take the Airpor Eepress Airliner bus to Oita station, and transfer at the station for JR Houhi line. If you want to go there by car: It takes about 60 minutes from the Oita-Mitsuyoshi IC on Oita Expressway, or about 90minutes from the Kumamoto IC on Kyushu Expressway. The ruins offers a large parking lot.
