The castle with a defensive system that is still obvious
Features
You can see Castle from Station
If you visit the ruins of Akashi Castle by train, you will see evidence of what was a very sturdy castle from your first step on the platform of Akashi Station. You will see the two remaining three-story turrets called Hitsujisaru Turret (on the left) and Tatsumi Turret (on the right) connected by the plaster wall on the hill. How wonderful they are!
The castle that can be seen from the platform of Akashi Station
The aerial photo around the castle
Around the Main Gate
The ruins of the castle have been developed as part of Akashi Park, inclusive of the inside of the Middle Moat. The front entrance of the park was the Main Gate of the castle. Its stone walls remain forming the square space inside called “Masugata”. The plain area is used as a relaxing zone and facilities such as the stadium which was once the Main Hall for the lord.
The entrance of Akashi ParkThe Masugata part of the Main Gate
Defense to protect Main Enclosure
Hitsujisaru Turret of the Main Enclosure stands on the high stone walls in front of you. You can walk up on the stairways towards the turret and reach under the turret and the stone wall base for the Main Tower. However, you can’t enter the enclosure directly. You have to enter it from the back side by going through the Inari Enclosure under it. Enemies would be counterattacked from the Main Enclosure before reaching it.
The standing out Hitsujisaru TurretThe stairway to the Main EnclosureThe blocking stone wall base for the Main TowerThe entrance of the Main Enclosure at the back side
Inside of Main Enclosure
Inside the Main Enclosure, you can see the two remaining turrets close by. They are two out of the twelve remaining three-story turrets in the castles of Japan. The plaster wall between the turrets was restored recently. You can also see a great city view from the observation platform at the middle of the wall. The Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge can also be seen over Tatsumi Turret.
Hitsujisaru Turret you can see close byThe restored plaster wallA view from the Main EnclosureYou can also see Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge
Second and East Enclosures to support Main Enclosure
The Second Enclosure is the other connecting point to the Main Enclosure. It now has no buildings, but its stone walls and its entrance surrounded by the walls remain in good condition. You can see the good looking Tatsumi Turret in the Main Enclosure from the Second Enclosure. The East Enclosure is next to the Second Enclosure and another entrance of the park.
The entrance the Main Enclosure from the Second EnclosureTatsumi Turret that can be seen from the Second EnclosureThe stone walls and stairways of the Second EnclosureThe East Enclosure
Nagoya Castle, which is located in Nagoya City, is very popular. Its Main Tower with the Golden Grampuses on the top is one of the most famous symbols of the city. The Main Tower is not original but was apparently restored in 1959. The original one was burned down due to the Bombing of Nagoya in 1945 during World War II.
The location of the castle
Takashi Kawamura, the mayor of Nagoya City has been suggesting the construction of a wooden Main Tower which would have the same design as the original one. The present Main Tower is over 60 years old and was found to have poor earthquake resistance. He stresses it is a good opportunity for replacing the present concrete Main Tower with an almost original wooden one. He also says the city can do this as it has a lot of pictures, drawings, and other records of the original one before it was burned down. He tells the citizens a wooden Main Tower gives great power to the city and boosts tourism. Many of the citizens support him, but it is not that simple.
A picture of the original Main Tower (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Claim of Agency for Cultural Affairs
Kawamura needs the approval of the Agency for Cultural Affairs before the launch of the replacement, because the castle has been designated as a Special National Historic Site. The agency claims that Nagoya City should investigate and repair the stone wall base for the Main Tower before the replacement. The base is original but has been left damaged from the fire of the bombing. It is more important for the agency to repair the base than to restore a wooden Main Tower.
The stone wall base for the Main TowerThe part damaged from the fire of the bombing
The present Main Tower is actually a modern building used as a museum with an elevator. If the building is replaced with a wooden building using the original design, this will not be able to have the elevator. Some groups of disabled people argue that the building must be accessable. In addition, the government will also not allow such a building to be used as the museum, even though the wooden building would have sprinklers to avoid fires, and reinforced woods to protect from earthquakes. It will also have regulations for visitors, such as an admission limit.
The present Main Tower has elevators outside and inside.
Other Opinions
Others suggest that the design of the wooden Main Tower should be changed even if it is different from the original one. It can have the elevator and emergency facilities. Some of the officials agree with it, but Kawamura says a new Main Tower must be built in the original design. Few people say that a wooden Main Tower is not needed, instead, the present Main Tower should be renovated for the anti-earthquake construction and the renewal of the museum. A wooden Main Tower will cost nearly 500 million US$, while the renovation would need about 65 million US$ (in the actual case of Osaka Castle). The present Main Tower itself can also be a cultural property. Indeed, the present concrete Main Tower of Osaka Castle became a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property recently and is 90 years old now.
The Main Tower of Osaka Castle which is a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property
この城には２つの天守が並び立っていました。
Two main towers stood in a row at the castle.
立地と歴史～Location and History
海に面した城～A castle facing the sea
米子市は、中国地方の鳥取県西部にあり、ゆったりした雰囲気を感じる所です。戦国時代には中国地方のほとんどを毛利氏が支配していました。その一族である吉川広家は、天下人の豊臣秀吉に海の近くに新しい城を築くよう命じられ、それは１５９２年の秀吉の朝鮮侵攻の補給基地の役割がありました。この辺りは朝鮮に近かったからです。それが米子城でした。 Yonago City has a relaxed atmosphere, located in the western part of Tottori Prefecture, Chugoku Region. In the “Sengoku”, or Warring States Period, the Mori clan governed most of this region. Its relative Hiroie Kikkawa was ordered to build a new castle near the sea by the ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi as a supply base for Hideyoshi’s invasion of Korea in 1592. Because the area is close to Korea. That was Yonago Castle.
城の位置～The location of the castle
この城は、湊山と呼ばれる９０ｍの高さの山の上に築かれました。城の背後はちょうど中海に面しており、港として使われていました。初期の城に関する詳細は不明なのですが、頂上には４階の天守がありました。 The castle was built on a 90 m mountain called Minato-yama. The back of the castle just faced Nakaumi Lake, and was used as a port. The details regardomg the first castle are uncertain, but there was a four-story main tower or Tenshu on the top.
城周辺の航空写真～The aerial photo of around the castle
２つの天守が並ぶ～Two Main towers stands
徳川幕府が設立された後は、１６００年に米子城と米子藩の領主として、中村一忠が配置されました。一忠は城と城下町の拡張を続け、完成させました。彼はまた、新しく元あった天守より大きな５階の天守を築きました。その当時、大きな天守を築くことが大名たちの間でブームとなっていました。民衆に権威を示すためです。既に古い天守があった場合には、大抵は置き換えられました。 After the Tokugawa Shogunate was established, they placed Kazutada Nakamura as the lord of Yonago Castle and the Yonago feudal Domain in 1600. He continued to improve and complete the castle along with the castle town. He also built a new five-story Tenshu that was larger than the old one. At that time, building large Tenshu was a boom for lords, as they tried to show their authority to people. If there was already an old Tenshu, it was often replaced with the new one.
中村一忠の彫像、観應寺蔵～The statue of Kazutada Nakamura, owned by Kannouji Temple（licensed by Reggaeman via Wikimedia Commons）
しかし、米子城の場合は、元あった４階の天守は残され、単に名前が副天守または四階櫓と変えられただけでした。つまりそれ以来、２つの天守が並び立っていたのです。何と勇壮な姿だったことでしょう。 However, in the case of Yonago Castle, the old four-story Tenshu remained and was just renamed the Sub Main Tower or the Four-Story Turret. That meant two Tenshu were standing in a row since then. They must have looked so great!
米子市立山陰歴史館にあるツイン天守の模型～A miniature model of twin main towers at Yonago municipal historical museum
鳥取藩の所有となる～Tottori feudal Domain owns
１６０９年、一忠は若くして亡くなり、彼には後継ぎとなる子どもがいなかったため、改易となってしまいました。最終的には米子は池田氏による鳥取藩に属することになります。池田氏は一時、当時の本拠地である鳥取城から、米子城に移り、ここを新本拠地にすることを検討しました。それだけ米子城が魅力的だったのですが、結局は中止になりました。結果、鳥取藩の家老である荒尾氏が米子城とその城下町を江戸時代いっぱい統治しました。 In 1609, Kazutada died young, then his clan was disbanded because he didn’t have children or successors. Lastly the Yonago area belonged to the Tottori feudal Domain owned by the Ikeda clan. The clan once considered Yonago Castle as their new home base by moving from their current home base, Tottori Castle. Yonago Castle was attractive to them, but the plan was canceled. Finally, the Arao clan, chief retainer of Tottori Domain governed Yonago Castle and the castle town until the end of the Edo Period.
米子城古図、鳥取県立博物館蔵～The old map of Yonago Castle, owned by Tottori Prefectural Museum（米子市 Website より引用）
特徴～Features
城周辺の地図～The map aroud the castle
頂上へ上る～Climbing up to the top
現在、米子城の城跡は湊山公園として残っています。基礎の上に石垣がありますが、現存する建物はありません。城を訪れる人は通常は城の正門であった大手門跡から頂上の方に上っていきます。他にもいくつか登り口があります。 Now, the ruins of Yonago Castle remain as Minato-yama Park. There are stone walls on their foundation, but with no remaining buildings. Visitors can usually climb up to the top from the ruins of the Main Gate or Ote-mon which was the front entrance of the castle. There are also several trails to climb.
大手門跡～The ruins of the Main Gate向こうに見える長屋門は他から移されてきました～The long house style gate over there was moved from another place.
山はそれ程高くありませんので、１５分か２０分くらいあれば頂にある城の中心地に到達できます。 The mountain is not so high, so you can reach the center of the castle at the peak in around 15 to 20 minutes.
山頂への山道～A trail to the top
２つの天守台～The two stone wall bases for Tenshu
そこには２つの天守のための天守台石垣があります。新しい天守用の方は古い石を使い、三段積みの形式となっています。 There are stone wall bases for two Tenshu. The one for the new Tenshu has a three-layer style using older stones.
２つの天守台～The two stone wall bases for Tenshu新しい天守用の三段積み石垣～The three-layer style stone walls for the new Tenshu
一方、古い天守（副天守）用には新しい石を使い、一層積みとなっています。これは、江戸時代後期に古い天守が大改装されたからです。この時、天守台が置き換えられたと言います。 On the other hand, the one for the old Tenshu (Sub Main Tower) has a single-layer style using newer stones. This is because the old Tenshu was renovated in the late Edo Period. It is said its base was replaced then.
古い天守用の一層積み石垣～The single layer style stone walls for the old Tenshu
本丸とその他の曲輪～Main and other enclosures
鉄門と呼ばれる正門跡を通り過ぎると、本丸に入っていきます。 Going through the front gate ruins called Kurogane-mon, you will enter the Main enclosure or “Honmaru”.
鉄門跡～The front gate ruins
この曲輪からは、城を囲む市街地、海そして山の素晴らしい景色を堪能できます。但し、周りに柵がありませんので、足元お気を付けてください。 From the enclosure, you can get a great view of the surrounding area such as the city, the sea and mountains, but watch your steps, because there are no fences.
本丸の眺め～A view of the Honmaru本丸からの眺め～A view from the Honmaru足元にお気をつけください～Watch your step
本丸には水手門という裏門もあり、かつては港につながっていました。 Honmaru also has the back gate ruins called Mizunote-mon which led to the port in the past.
水手門跡～The back gate ruinsかつて港だった場所～There was the port in the past
城には、他にも山麓に二の丸があり、内膳丸というのもありました。内膳丸は山の中腹なり、見張りや連絡のために使われました。最近の発掘調査により、かつてはこの曲輪から本丸にまっすぐ通じる石垣でできた通路があり、登り石垣と呼ばれました。歴史家は、朝鮮侵攻のときに日本軍が似たような仕組みを作ったことから、これは吉川氏がその時の経験を基に作ったのではないかと考えています。 The castle had other enclosures like the Second enclosure or “Ninomaru” on the foot and “Naizen-maru” enclosure. Naizen-maru is on the midslope and was used for observation and connection. A recent excavation found that this was the direct route made with stone walls called Nobori-Ishigaki from this enclosure to Honmaru in the past. Historians say it might have been built by Kikkawa from the experience of the invasion of Korea where Japanese warriors built similar systems.
内膳丸～Naizen-maru enclosure内膳丸から本丸を見上げる～Looking up Honmaru from Naizen-maru
その後～Later History
明治維新後、米子城は廃城となり、元藩士に無償で譲渡されました。しかしながら、城をそのまま維持するは大変困難でした。すべての城の建物は、廃材として売られていきました。１９３３年、米子市が城跡を取得し、しばらくして湊山公園として整備しました。２００６年に城跡は国の史跡に指定されました。それ以来、発掘調査が進められています。 After the Meiji Restoration, Yonago Castle was abolished and assigned to former warriors for free. However, it was too difficult for them to keep the castle as it had been. They had to sell all of the buildings in the castle as waste materials. In 1933, Yonago City owned the castle ruins, then developed them as Minato-yama Park after a whole. The ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 2006. Since then, excavation and investigations have been ongoing.
登り石垣跡～The ruins of Nobori-Ishigaki（licensed by Saigen Jiro via Wikimedia Commons）
私の感想～My Impression
もし藩士たちが少しでも城の建物を残していてくれたらと思います。そうであったなら現在の松江城のようになっていたでしょう。どちらにしろ米子城跡に訪れる価値はあります。とてもゆったりできますし、観光客も市民も歴史を学ぶ場になります。 I wish the warriors could have kept some of the castle buildings so I could see them today like Matsue Castle. In any case, the ruins of Yonago Castle are still attractive. Visiting the ruins can be relaxing, an exercise and an opportunity to learn history for tourists and citizens.
２つの天守台を町から見上げる～Looking up the two Tenshu bases from the town
ここに行くには～How to get There
車で行く場合：山陰自動車道米子西ＩＣから約４ｋｍです。公園に駐車場があります。 電車では、ＪＲ米子駅から歩いて約２０分です。 米子空港から米子駅まで：米子空港駅から境線に乗るか、空港連絡バスに乗ってください。 If you want to go there by car: It is about 4 km from the Yonago-Nishi IC on San-in Expressway. The park offers a parking lot. By train, it takes about 20 minutes on foot from JR Yonago station. From Yonago Airport to Yonago station :Take the Sakai line from Yonago-Kuko station, or take the connecting bus for Yonago station.
米子駅～Yonago Station
リンク、参考情報～Links and References
・国史跡 米子城跡（Yonago City Official Website） ・「歴史群像１５０号、戦国の城／伯耆米子城」学研（Japanese Magazine） ・「よみがえる日本の城６」学研（Japanese Book）
