Kokokuji Castle was located in what is now Numazu City, Shizuoka Prefecture. The area of the city was in Suruga Province (now central part of Shizuoka Pref.) which many warlords tried to take over in the 16 Century during the Sengoku Period.
The location of the castle and the range of Suruga Province
The castle was on the southern edge of the hilly terrain of Ashitaka-yama Mountain. There was a marshland to the south, east and west of the castle which was as natural hazard that helped to protect the castle. The castle was built using the natural terrain of the mountain and marshland. The castle was also an important point for transportation. A road at the foot of the mountain called the Nekata Road passed beside the castle. In addition, the Takeda Road close to the castle ran from the Nekata Road to the Tokaido Road at the seaside.
A relief map around the castle
The two roads are still connected to the castle ruins
The castle mainly consisted of three enclosures on the hill in a terraced manner. The Main Enclosure was at the highest, and there was a large deep dry moat behind the enclosure to prevent enemies’ attacks from the north. The castle even had ports on both sides for ships on the marsh.
Part of the illustration of Shinkokuji Castle in Suruga Province, exhibited by the National Diet Library (It is supposed to be Kokokuji Castle)
The castle itself might have been simple but is well known for its history. This is because some history books say that Kokokuji Castle was the first castle for a famous warlord, Soun Hojo to govern. He was one of the earliest warlords in the late 15 Century who supported the Imagawa Clan in Suruga Province. He was given the castle by the clan in 1487. His success story starts at this castle, and he went on to capture a part of the Kanto Region. His descendants followed in his footsteps to capture the other parts of the Kanto Region.
The replica of the portrait of Soun Hojo, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
However, there is no other evidence of the castle existing at the same time as Soun. The first appearance of the castle in a public document can only be traced back to 1549. At that time, Yoshimoto Imagawa ordered that the Kokoku-ji Temple be moved to another location to make space for building a new castle there. What is the truth about the matter? A historian gives us an interesting hypothesis that the castle was a temple called Kokoku-ji when Soun owned it. Kokoku-ji is originally a name of temple (“ji” means temple in Japanese). Kokokuji Castle is thought to be named after the Kokoku-ji Temple.
The statue of Yoshimoto Imagawa at Okehazama Battlefield Park (taken by HiC from photoAC)
The historian suggests another speculation about why the castle was built. A period of peace once came to the area around Suruga Province with Imgawa, Hojo, and Takeda Clans when the castle was built. Castles were basically built for battles, but Kokokuji Castle might have been built for the meeting with the three clans or as a symbol of peace. It is said that the three clans had a conference for their alliance at the Zentokuji-Temple. The temple may have been Kokokuji Caste.
The portrait of Shingen Takeda, the lord of the Takeda Clan at that time, owned by Jimyo-in Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Unfortunately, the alliance broke in 1568, while Kokokuji Castle was involved in war. The lords of the castle were rapidly changed several times from the Imagawa Clan to the Hojo, Takeda, Toyotomi, and Tokugawa Clans. As the number of the lords increased, the range of the castle seemed to become larger. In 1601, Yasukage Amano under Tokugawa became the last lord of the castle and the founder of the Kokokuji Domain. He governed the area well, but he ran away from the castle because of trouble between his citizens and others. The castle was finally abandoned when the domain was abolished in 1607.
Yasukage Amano from the Battle of Komaki-Nagakute folding screens (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
駿府城は、徳川家康ゆかりの城としてその姿を取り戻しつつあります。 Sunpu Castle is returning to a castle associated with Ieyasu Tokugawa.
復元された駿府城東御門、背景は静岡県庁舎別館（The restored Higashi-Gomon of Sunpu Castle, the background is the Shizuoka Prefectural Government Office）
Location and History
徳川幕府の創始者である徳川家康は、昔は駿府といった現在の静岡市に３回住んでいました。最初は少年期に、今川氏の人質として過ごしました。２回目は壮年期に東海地方の戦国大名として、最後は熟年期に日本の支配者としてでした。今川氏の館が同じ場所にあったと言われており、そのため家康が人質としてそこに送られたのです。 Ieyasu Tokugawa, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate lived three times in Sunpu which is the old name of Shiuoka City. The first time was in his childhood when he lived there as a hostage under the Imagawa clan. The second one was in his middle age as a warlord in the Tokai region, and the last one was in his old age as the ruler of Japan. It is said that the hall of the Imagawa clan was there, that’s why Tokugawa was sent to the castle as a hostage.
駿府城公園の徳川家康像（The statue of Ieyasu Tokugawa in Sunpu Castle Park）taken by 松波庄九郎 from photo AC
家康は、駿府が首府であった駿河国を手に入れた後、１５８９年に最初の天守とともに新しく駿府城を建設しました。しかし、ほどなく豊臣氏の命により関東地方に移されてしまいました。代わりに豊臣配下の中村一氏が駿府城に入り、家康の天守を別のものに置き替え、家康への対抗姿勢を示しました。 Tokugawa built a new Sunpu Castle with the first “Tenshu” keep in 1589 after he took over Suruga Province where Sunpu was the capital. But he was soon transferred to the Kanto region by the Toyotomi clan. Instead, the Kazuuji Nakamura under Toyoyomi came to the castle and replaced Tokugawa’s Tenshu with another one against Tokugawa.
中村一氏像、東京大学史料編纂所蔵（The portrait of Kazuuji Nakamura, owned by Tokyo University）licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons
最終的には家康は再び駿府に戻り、１６０７年に城の大改修を行います。最盛期には、駿府城は三重の堀に囲まれていました。三代目の天守は、日本で最大の天守台の上にありました。そして数多くの櫓や門が、西の豊臣氏との戦いに備えて築かれました。家康は、１６１５年に豊臣氏を滅ぼし、１６１６年にこの城で亡くなります。その後、幕府は長年にわたって駿府とこの城を支配しました。 Finally, Tokugawa returned to Sunpu again, and renovated the castle in 1607. At its peak, it was surrounded by triple moats. The third Tenshu keep had the largest stone base in Japan, and many turrets and gates prepared for fighting with Toyotomi clan in the west direction. Tokugawa died at this castle in 1616 after he had beaten Toyotomi clan in 1615. After that, the Shogunate directly governed Sunpu and the castle for many years.
駿州府中之城図家康公縄張、岡崎市立図書館蔵（The layout of Sunpu Castle by Ieyasu Tokugawa, owned by Okazaki City Library）licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons
不幸にして１６３５年に大火が起こり、城を焼いてしまいました。火事の後、「東御門」「巽櫓」「坤櫓」といった施設は再建されましたが、天守は再建されず、天守台だけが残りました。 Unfortunately there was a big fire in 1635 which burned the castle down. After the fire, facilities such as the East Gate “Higashi Gomon”, the South-East turret “Tatusmi Yagura” and the South-West turret “Hitsuji-Saru Yagura” were rebuilt, but Tenshu was not rebuilt, only its base remained.
現在復元された巽櫓（左）と東御門（右）、大火の後再建された建物を元にしている（The current restored Tatsumi-Yagura(left) and Higashi-Gomon(right), based on the buildings rebuilt after the fire）
江戸時代末期になって、駿府城は東西対立の中で再度重要な存在となりました。この城は新政府軍の本陣となり、ここから幕府との間で江戸城と将軍の扱いについて交渉が行われました。 At the end of the Edo Period, Sunpu Castle regained its importance in the East-West confrontation. The castle became the stronghold of the New Government Military which negotiated the treatment of Edo Castle and the Shogun with the Shogunate.
駿府城近くにある西郷隆盛・山岡鉄舟会見の地跡（The site of the meeting between Takamori Saigo and Tesshu Yamaoka near Sunpu Castle）licensed by Halowand via Wikimedeia Commons
Features
現在、静岡市当局はこの城跡を史跡として再生することに取り組んでいます。最近になって城跡の名前が、元の駿府公園から駿府城公園に変更されました。更には東御門、巽櫓、そして坤櫓が残っている詳細図面や発掘の成果から、オリジナルの木造建築により復元されました。 Now, Shizuoka City officials are trying to recreate the castle ruins as a historic site. They have renamed the ruins from the former name Sunpu Park to the Sunpu-Castle Park recently. They have also restored Higashi Gomon, Tatsumi Yagura and Hitsuji-Saru Yagura in the original wooden style based on their remaining detailed drawing and excavation.
復元された東御門と巽櫓（The restored Higashi-Gomon and Tatsumi-Yagura）復元された坤櫓（The restored Hitsujisaru-Yagura）taken by アド・ミラー from photo AC
市は、どのように公園を再構成し、また天守を再建すべきか、歴史家や専門家に諮問しています。現時点の答申は、まず最初に天守台を復元すること、そしてしばらく様子を見るというものでした。それは、天守の詳細が不明であり、再建には莫大な予算が必要だからです。現在、天守台の再建に向けて行われている発掘現場を見ることができます。そこでは二代目の中村氏の天守と、三代目の徳川氏の天守の遺跡が混在しています。大変興味深いものです。 They are consulting with historians and specialists about how they should reorganize the park and rebuild the Tenshu keep. Their answer right now is that they should restore the base of Tenshu first, and wait for a while. That’s because the details of it are unclear, and rebuilding it requires a huge budget. You can now see the excavation site of Tenshu prepared for the rebuilding of the base. There are mixed stone ruins both from the second Nakamura and the third Tokugawa periods. That’s fascinating.
天守の発掘現場（The excavation saite of Tehchu）こちら側が徳川の石、向こう側が中村の石（The near side is Tokugawa’s stones, the other is Nakamura’s）
Later Life
明治維新後、城の全ての建物が撤去され、静岡市は城跡を公園として使いました。しかし、市は明治中期に至り、公園を軍用地として提供する決断をしました。そして陸軍歩兵第３４連隊が１８９７年から１９４５年の間、基地として使用しました。結果として、残っていた天守台は完全に破壊され、多くの堀がその残土により埋められました。この一帯は、二重、三重目を囲む堀と石垣を除き、平地になってしまいました。 After the Meiji Restoration, all the buildings of the castle were demolished, and Shizuoka City used the ruins as a park. But the city decided to offer the park for the ground for a military base in mid Meiji. The 34th infantry regiment used the base between 1897 and 1945. As a result, the remaining Tenshu base was completely destroyed and many moats were filled with waste. The area became plain-looking without part of the second and third concentric moats and their stone walls
現在の駿府城の航空写真（An aerial photo of the present Sunpu Castle）
内堀もわずかですが復元されています。（A few inner moats are restored）
第二次世界大戦後、城跡は再び公園となり「駿府公園」と名付けられました。現在静岡市は市民との絆を深めるため、家康を新たなシンボルとして模索しているようです。 After the World War II, the ruins of the castle became a park again called “Sunpu Park”. The city seems to be looking for a new symbol of Tokugawa to strengthen ties with its citizens.
堀から発見された家康時代の鯱（The grampus in Ieyasu’s era which was discovered from a moat）
My Impression
市民や観光客のために歴史公園を増やしたい気持ちはわかります。当方としても元通りの城の建物を本当に見てみたいです。しかし、一体どこまでやればよいのでしょう。市のシンボルとして天守を再建することが本当に必要でしょうか。過ぎたるは及ばざるがごとし。答えは一つではないのですが、過去に起こった軍用地の一件の中に潜んでいるような気もします。 I can see why they want to increase the number of historical parks for citizens and tourists. I am really pleased to see the buildings of castles restored like the original ones. But, how far will they go with that? Is it really necessary to rebuild the Tenshu as the city symbol? More than enough is too much. Though there is not one answer, it might be an answer in the case of the military base in the past.
再建された巽櫓の内部（The inside of the restored Tatsumi-Yagura）
How to get There
ＪＲ静岡駅から歩いて約１５分です。 東京から静岡駅まで：東海道新幹線に乗って、直接静岡駅に到着します。 It takes about 15 minutes on foot from the JR Shizuoka station. From Tokyo to the station: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express direct to Shizuoka st.
