Iwamura Castle was a large mountain castle which was located in the eastern part of Mino Province (now Gifu Prefecture). The castle has been considered as one of the Three Great Mountain Castles followed by Bicchu-Matsuyama and Takatori Castles. Basically, mountain castles were built during the Sengoku Period when many battles happened. However, during the peaceful Edo Period, most castles were moved or rebuilt on plain land for the governor. The Three Great Mountain Castles were rare examples which remained until the end of the Edo Period. In particular, Iwamura Castle had the highest altitude of 717 meters high among the active castles during that time.
The location of the castle
The relief map around the castle
Female Lord, Otsuya and her Tragedy
It was said that the Toyama Clan first built the castle in the 13th Century, but it is quite uncertain. Records show the clan used the castle as their home base in the first 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. The Toyama Clan was one of the local warlord families residing in the area, which became the head of the local lord group called the Iwamura Group. However, the clan was affected by other larger warlords such as the Takeda and Oda Clans. For example, the clan often worked for the Takeda Clan. They often married their wife who belonged to the Oda Clan. This was to ensure balance between the two clans. In 1571, when a lord of the castle died, Nobunaga Oda sent one of his sons as the next lord of the Toyama Clan. The ex-lord’s wife named Otsuya, who came from Oda and Nobunaga’s aunt, actually governed the castle because the new lord was still very young. She has been known as one of the few female lords in Japan.
The situation became very serious for Otsuya when Shingen Takeda decided to fight against Nobunaga. This was because her territory was the buffer zone between Shingen and Nobunaga, which both clans wanted to own. Shingen sent his retainer, Torashige Akiyama with troops to capture Iwamura Castle in 1572. The castle was surrounded by the troops, but it survived for a while because it had very good defensive structures. Torashige negotiated an arranged marriage with Otsuya in order to be a part of the Takeda Clan. Otsuya accepted it.
However, Nobunaga was very angry to hear about this. Nobunaga decided to send his troops to Iwamura Castle in 1575 after Shingen had died and the power of the Takeda Clan began to decline especially by the defeat in the battle of Nagashino Castle. The castle was besieged again but survived for 5 months because of its own strength. The attackers negotiated that the defenders could be saved if they surrendered. Torashige and Otsuya accepted this, however, the promise was a lie, so they were executed, which became a big tragedy during the Sengoku Period.
Matsudaira Clan modernizes Castle
After that, several different lords governed the castle. In 1601 after the Tokugawa Shogunate was established, Ienori Matsudaira became the lord of the castle and the founder of the Iwamura Domain. Before his entry, the castle was probably a large and simple mountain castle with its buildings like the Main Hall at a high place. However, Ienori moved the Main Hall to the foot of the mountain to make it more convenient for him. He also modernized the mountain part by building stone walls which surrounded the enclosures. For example, the Main Enclosure on the top had two two-level turrets on the stone walls and two gates, but was empty inside during the late Edo Period. It might have been designed for emergencies like battles. In addition, Ienori also developed the castle town, which still has a good atmosphere to visit now.
杉林に囲まれた城跡
The castle ruins surrounded by a cedar forest
立地と歴史~Location and History
大和三城の一つ~One of Three Greatest Castles in Yamato Province
宇陀松山城は奈良県の北西部、宇陀市にありました。宇陀市は、林業と古い町並みで知られています。大阪市から車で約1時間ほどの場所です。宇陀松山城は最初は「城山」という473mの高さの山の上に、秋山氏によって築かれました。 Uda-Matsuyama Castle was located in Uda City in the north east part of Nana Prefecture. Uda City is known for its forest industry and old town. The city is approximately one hour by car from Osaka City. The Uda-Matsuyama Castle was first built on a 473m high mountain called “Shiroyama” by the Akiyama Clan.
城の位置~The location of the castle
1585年、豊臣秀長が大和国(現在の奈良県)の統治を始めたとき、彼自身は大和郡山城を居城としていました。一方で、彼は家臣を、支城である高取城と宇陀松山城に派遣しました。その家臣のうち、主には多賀秀種が宇陀松山城を拡張しました。秀種は大和国の東部に領地を持っていて、東にある伊勢国との国境の防衛のため、城を用いていました。 In 1585, when Hidenaga Toyotomi started to govern Yamato Province (what is now Nana Prefecture), he lived in Yamato-Koriyama Castle, while he sent his retainers to Takatori and Uda Matsuyama Castles as his branch castles. Among the retainers was Hidetane Taga, who mainly developed the Uda Matsuyama Castle. Hidetane was granted the eastern part of the province with the intention to use the castle to prepare for the defense of the border between Yamato and Ise Province from the east.
多賀秀種が城を改修~Hidetane Taga improves Castle
秀種は、この城を近世的なスタイルに変えました。城はいくつかの部分に分けられていました。御殿があった「本丸」と天守があった「天守郭」が山頂にありました。天守は、郭の大きさからすると2階か3階建てだったと考えられています。郭周辺の土壌から発掘により多賀氏の家紋が入った瓦が発見されています。 Hidetane changed the castle to an early modern style. The castle was divided into several sections: the Main Enclosure or “Honmaru” with the Main Hall, and Tenshu Enclosure with the Main Tower or “Tenshu” on the top of the mountain. The Main Tower is thought to be two or three stories based on the scale of the enclosure. The roof tiles with Taga Clan’s family crest were found by the excavation of the land around the enclosure.
「二の丸」や「帯郭」などの他の郭は、城の中心を取り囲んでいました。城の主要部の基礎部分は全て石垣造りで、多くの櫓が立ち並んでいました。城の出入り口である「虎口」は、櫓門や屈曲した通路によって厳重に守られていました。 Other enclosures such as the Second Enclosure or “Ninomaru” and the Belt Enclosure or “Obi-kuruwa” surrounded the center of the castle. The foundation of this main portion was all made of stone walls where a lot of turrets stood. The entrances to the castle called “Koguchi” were guarded strictly by turret gates and zigzagged routes.
城は破壊された~Castle is Destroyed
1600年、広島城を治めていた有名な福島正則の弟、福島高晴が、多賀秀種の代わりとして、徳川幕府により宇陀松山城に送られてきました。彼は城を改修するとともに、城下町を整備しました。ところが、1615年に彼は幕府により、幕府に反抗していた豊臣氏を支援した疑いから改易となってしまいます。 In 1600, Takaharu Fukushima, the little brother of the famous lord, Masanori Fukusima who governed Hiroshima Castle, was sent to Uda Matsuyama Castle instead of Hidetane Taga by the Tokugawa Shogunate. He also improved the castle and the castle town, however, in 1615, he was fired by the Shogunate due to suspicions about his support of the Toyotomi Clan who was against the Shogunate.
その結果、城は完全に破壊されることになり、建物と石垣は撤去され、通路は埋められました。執行者の一人、小堀政一の手紙が残っていて、作業は進んでいるものの、作業者が足りないということが書かれています。 As a result, the castle was completely destroyed removing the buildings and stone walls and burying the routes. A letter written by one of the executors, Masakazu Kobori, remains and says that he was destroying the castle, but lacked enough workers.
特徴~Features
杉林の中を進む~Going through Cedar Forest
以前観光客は宇陀松山城跡へは、市街地にある城の正門であった春日門跡から行くことができました。ところが、2018年の豪雨災害により「大手道」が閉鎖されており、通ることができません(2021年4月現在)。代わりに、まちづくりセンター「千軒舎」の脇道を通って行くことができます。もしかすると、城跡に向かっているのか疑問に思うかもしれません。美しく、よく手入れが行き届いた杉林が見えてくるからです。 Previously, visitors could visit the ruins of Uda-Matsuyama Castle from the Kasuga Gate Ruins in the town area which was the front gate of the castle. However, visitors can no longer do so because the Main Route or “Ote-michi” to the castle is closed (as of January 2021) due to a storm disaster in 2018. Instead, visitors can go through the side road beside the Town Planning Center called “Sengensha”. You may not be sure you are going to the ruins of a castle, as you will see a beautiful, well-maintained cedar forest.
わずかに残る遺跡~Few remaining Ruins
約10分間登っていくと、城跡の入口に着きます。そこから山道をあと数分を登らねばなりませんが、そうするうちに空堀と櫓門跡が見えてきます。この門は「雀門」と呼ばれ、「桝形」という四角い空間がありました。桝形は、典型的な防御構造で、その四角い空間は櫓や石垣に囲まれていました。敵は、強力な防御の下を屈曲した通路をくぐり抜けねばなりません。 After about a 10-minute climb, you will reach the entrance of the ruins. You have to climb another trail for a few minutes, then you will see the ruins of a dry moat and one of the turret gates. This gate was called “Suzume-mon” which had a square space called “Masugata”. Masugata refers to a typical defensive structure where the square space is surrounded by turrets and stone walls. Enemies have to survive through a zigzagged route under the strong defense.
城の中心部分~Center of Castle
この城跡は、杉林によって隠されていて、少し変わった雰囲気があります。門を過ぎた後は、本丸に至るジグザグの道をまた進んでいきます。その道上にまた虎口郭門がありましたが、現在は何の痕跡もありません。本丸は、この城では最も広い郭です。ここには5つの棟を持つ御殿があり、また櫓や石垣に囲まれていました。 These ruins have a bit of a unique atmosphere, hidden from view by the cedar forest. After passing through the gate, you also have to go on another zigzagged route to reach the Main Enclosure. There was also the Entrance Enclosure Gate on the route, but there is no trace of it now. The Main Enclosure is the largest enclosure of the castle. It had the Main Hall with five houses and was also surrounded by turrets and stone walls.
城周辺の航空写真~The aerial photo around the castle
天守郭は、本丸の隣りにあります。ここは山の頂点であり、天守がかつて立っていた天守台石垣の一部分がまだ残っています。頂上からは、杉林に囲まれた他の郭や、遥か彼方の他の山々が見えます。 Tenshu Enclosure is next to the Main Enclosure. It is the highest spot of the mountain and parts of the base of the stone walls still remains where the Main Tower once was. You can now see other enclosures surrounded by the cedar forest and other mountains far away from the top.
その後~Later History
宇陀松山城が破壊された後、織田氏がこの地域を治めましたが、城下町の辺りの館に住んでいました。また、春日門跡を修繕して館の門として使用しました。幕府は最終的には織田氏を他の所に移し、直接この地域を統治します。城下町は、商業の町として繁栄を続けました。 After the Uda-Matsuyama Castle was destroyed, the Oda Clan governed this area, but the clan lived in the hall around the castle town. They also repaired and used the Kasuga Gate Ruins as their hall’s gate. The Shogunate lastly governed the area after it transferred the Oda Clan to another place. The castle town continued to prosper as a commercial town.
1995年、宇陀市は城跡の発掘と研究を始めました。その結果、城には山の上に石垣を使った豪華な建物があったことがわかったのです。発掘の成果により、城跡は2006年に国の史跡に指定されました。 Uda City started to excavate and study the ruins of the castle in 1995. It found out that the castle was built using stone walls and had luxurious buildings on the mountain. The ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 2006 due to the achievement of the excavation.
私の感想~My Impression
発掘や研究の方法は年々進化しています。現在建物がなくても城の建物がどのようなものであったか推測できるのです。今回の訪問と宇陀松山城についての研究により、私は過去にこのような立派な城があったことに本当に驚きました。 The methods of excavation and study have been improving. They have made it possible to speculate what buildings in a castle looked like even if there are no buildings now. From my visit and research about the Uda-Matsuyma Castle, I was actually surprised to learn that there was such a great castle in the past
更には、ある城が残るかどうかは、ほんの小さなことで違ってきてしまうことも知りました。宇陀松山城の場合、高晴がもう少し長く持ちこたえていれば、城跡は高取城のように少なくとも石垣くらいはまともに残っていたと思うのです。 In addition, I also learned that whether something of a castle can remain or not is sometimes based on very small things. In the case of the Uda-Matsuyama Castle, if Takaharu survived a little longer, the ruins of the castle would include at least with decent stone walls like Takatori Castle.
ここに行くには~How to get There
車で行かれる場合は、南阪奈道路の葛城ICから約40分かかります。まちづくりセンターに駐車場があります。 電車の場合は、近鉄大阪線の榛原駅から大宇陀行きのバスに乗って、終点で降りてください。 If you wish to visit there by car, it takes about 40 minutes from the Katsuragi IC on Minami-Hanna Road. There is a parking lot at the Town Planning Center. When using the train, take the bus for Ouda from Haibara Station on Kintetsu Osaka Line, and get off at the last stop.
リンク、参考情報~Links and References
・宇陀松山城跡、宇陀市(Uda City Official Website) ・鬼面百相、史跡宇陀松山城出土資料展パンフレット(Japanese Pamphlet) ・「日本の城改訂版第120号」デアゴスティーニジャパン(Japanese Book)
山の上にこれでもかというくらいの石垣
The endless stone walls on the mountain
立地と歴史~Location and History
三大山城の一つ~One of Three Greatest Mountain Castles
中世には、日本では山城が主流でした。戦いには好都合だったからです。ところが、天下統一の後には、ほとんどのこれらの城は廃されるか、取り壊されてしまいました。政治を行う場所としては不向きだからです。更には、将来の戦の根を断つため、徳川幕府は、大名たちにその居住する城を除き、全ての城を廃止するよう命じました。高取城は、江戸時代末期まで生き延びた数少ない山城の一つなのです。そのため、この城は日本三大山城の一つに挙げられています。 In the Middle Ages, mountain castes had been popular in Japan, because they were convenient for battle. However, after the unification of the whole country, most of these castles were abandoned or destroyed, as they were inconvenient for governance. Furthermore, to reduce the threat of future attacks, the Tokugawa Shogunate ordered the lords to destroy all castles other than the ones in which they lived. Takatori Castle was one of the few remaining mountain castles that survived until the end of the Edo Period. That’s why this castle is known as one of the three greatest mountain castles in Japan.
城の位置~The location of the castle
江戸時代末まで生き延びる~It survives until End of Edo Period
高取城は、中世に越智氏により、大和国(現在の奈良県)にある標高583mの高取山に築かれましたが、その詳細の実態はわかっていません。1585年、天下人の豊臣秀吉の弟、秀長がこの国の統治を始めたとき、この城はその支城として、詰めの城(他の城が占領されてしまったとき最後に立てこもるところ)として改良されました。秀長の部下、本多氏が大小の天守と、27基もの櫓を石垣の上に築き、この城は壮大な規模となりました。 Takatori Castle was first built on 583m high Mt. Takatori in Yamato Province (what is now Nara Prefecture) by the Ochi clan in the Middle Ages, but the exact details are unclear. After Hidenaga Toyotomi, younger brother of the ruler Hideyoshi, started to govern the province in 1585, the castle was improved as his branch and last castle (i.e., in case all his other castles were captured, he would go there). Hidenaga’s retainer, the Honda clan built the Large and Small Main Towers, and as many as 27 turrets on the stone walls, that made the castle huge.
秀長の息子、秀保が亡くなった後、本多氏は独立した領主となりました。本多氏はまた、1600年の関ヶ原の戦いで徳川幕府の創始者、徳川家康を支持して生き残ります。結果として、本多俊政が高取藩の初代藩主となりました。1640年、植村氏が本多氏を引き継ぎ、江戸時代の間ずっと藩を支配していきました。 The Honda clan became the independent owner of this castle, after Hidenaga’s son, Hideyasu died. The clan also survived the battle of Sekigahara in 1600 while supporting Ieyasu Tokugawa, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate. As a result, Toshimasa Honda became the first lord of the Takatori Domain. In 1640, the Uemura clan followed the Honda clan, and continued to govern the domain through the Edo Period.
ところが、高い山の上にそのような建物を維持することは困難でした。そのため、植村氏は幕府からいつでも城を修繕できるという許可を取っていました。他の大名たちは通常どんな修理でも幕府の承認が必要でした。一方では、藩の領主は山の麓に御殿を築き、そこに住んでいました。もちろんそれは、居住と統治の利便性のためでした。 However, keeping such buildings on the high mountain was difficult, so the clan was allowed by the Shogunate to repair the castle at anytime, while other lords usually had to take approvals for any fixing. On the other hand, the lord built the Main Hall on the foot of the mountain, and lived there. Of course, it was because of convenience of living and governance.
2度の戦い~Two Battles
記録によると、この城では2回戦いが起こっています。最初は1600年の戦いが起こったときでした。家康に反抗した石田三成が城に軍勢を送りましたが、撃退されました。もう一回は1863年に天誅組の変が起こったときでした。この変は、明治維新に至る動きの先駆けであったとされています。吉村寅太郎率いる千人以上の兵士が高取城を占領しようとしましたが、城下町があった山麓で反撃を受け失敗しました。高取藩の藩士たちは、そのときは山麓に住んでおり、且つよく訓練されていたからでした。 According to reports, two battles took place at the castle. The first one was when the 1600 battle occurred. Mitsunari Ishida against Ieyasu sent his troops to the castle, but were repelled. The last one was when Tenchu-gumi Incident happened in 1863. This incident is marked as the start of the Meiji Restoration process. Over 1,000 soldiers, led by Torataro Yoshimura, tried to capture Takatori Castle, but they are counterattacked and failed at the foot of the mountain, where the castle town was located. This was because the warriors of the Takatori Domain usually lived on the foot at that time and were well trained.
特徴~Features
城への3つのルート~Three Routes to Castle
高取城の入口である「大手門」へのルートは3つありました。ルートのうちの1つは「大手道」で今でもハイカーがここを登ってきます。もう一つは壷阪道で、主には車で来る人たちが通るところです。最後の3番目のルートはもはや使われていません。3つの道筋は全て同じところ、すなわち大手門に集まっていました。 There have been three routes to the entrance of Takatori Castle, which is also called “Ote-mon” or the Main Gate. One of the routes is “Ote-michi” or the Main route even now used by hikers. Another one is called Tsubosaka Route that is used mainly by people who come in car. Finally, there is a third route but it is no longer in use. Even though there were three separate routes they all met at the same point, i.e., at the Main Gate.
城周辺の地図~The map around the castle
二の丸に入る~Entering Second Enclosure
大手門跡には現在でも食い違いの石垣が残っていて、敵が簡単に城内に入れないようになっていました。この門は「二の丸」の入口でもあり、更に「十三間多聞」も経ていかなけばなりませんでした。実際、現在でも二の丸に入るには、その石垣を通らなければなりません。二の丸には最初御殿がありましたが、やがて山麓の方に移っていきました。 The ruins of the gate still have alternate stone walls to prevent enemies from entering the castle easily. The gate was the entrance of “Ninomaru” or the Second Enclosure as well, and everyone had to use another gate called “Jusanken-Tamon” to enter it. In fact, even now if you want to enter the Second enclosure you have to pass through its stone walls. The Second Enclosure had the former Main Hall before it had been moved to the foot of the mountain.
城内の地図~The map inside the castle
すごい防御力~Great Defense
二の丸から石垣が見えるのですが、それが「本丸」かと思われるかもしれません。ところが、それはただ本丸を守護する櫓群のための石垣だったのです。櫓群は、「太鼓櫓」「新櫓」「十五間多聞」から構成されていました。現在でさえ、残っている石垣をぬって進んでいかねばなりません。なんという防御力でしょう! You may think the stone walls that you see from the Second Enclosure is “Honmaru” or the Main Enclosure. However, they were those just for the groups of turrets that protected the Main Enclosure. The group consisted of “Taiko Yagura” or the Drum Turret, “Shin Yagura” or the New Turret, and “Jugoken-Tamon” Gate. Even now, you have to go over their remaining stone walls. You might be amazed at how protective this castle was!
広い本丸~Large Main Enclosure
ついに本丸の石垣が、巨大な木の背後に見えてきます。この本丸は山城のものとしては、かなり大きなものです。ここに入るのにも曲がりくねった入口を通る必要があります。大天守と小天守が石垣に沿い、多聞櫓によって連結されて立っていました。発掘の成果によれば、石垣のいくつかは古代の古墳から持ってこられたとのことです。 You can finally see the stone walls of the Main Enclosure behind a big tree. The enclosure is very large for a mountain castle. You have to go through the zigzagged entrance again to enter it. The Large Main Tower and the Small Main Tower stood connected by Tamon Turret alongside the stone walls. An excavation found out that some stones were brought from those for ancient tombs.
高取城跡には建物は残っていませんが、その土台や石垣がまだそこにあり、この城がかつて大変強力だったことを想像するのは十分可能だと思います。 The ruins of Takatori Castle have no buildings, but their foundation and stone walls still stand and it is enough for us to enjoy and imagine that the castle was once so strong.
その後~Later History
明治維新後、1873年に高取城は廃城となりました。城にあった建物は売られるか、撤去されるか、自然に崩壊していきました。建物は全て失われたものの、石垣と共にある土台はかつてあったように残っています。高い山の上に位置していたからです。そのため、私たちは今広大な城跡を見ることができるのです。城跡は1953年に国の史跡に指定されました。 After the Meiji Restoration, Takatori Castle was abandoned in 1873. The buildings of castle were either sold, demolished, or collapsed naturally. The buildings have been all lost, but the foundation with stone walls remain as it once was, because they were (situated) on the high mountain. That’s why we can now see the huge ruins of the castle. The ruins were lastly designated as a National Historic Site in 1953.
私の感想~My Impression
高取城のすばらしい遺跡を目にすることができるもう一つの理由は、本多氏が独立した領主となり、また植村氏が長期間城を維持してきたからだと思います。そうでなければ、城はもっと早く廃城となり、私たちは城跡を見て楽しめるむこともなかったでしょう。それは奇跡的所業であり、先人に感謝すべきでしょう。 I think another reason why we can see the great ruins of Takatori Castle is that the Honda clan became an independent owner, and the Uemura clan maintained the castle for a long time. Otherwise, the castle might would have been abandoned much earlier, then we (wouldn’t) have been able to enjoy the ruins. That was a miraculous achievement, so we should thank our ancestors.
今回私は城跡に車で行きました。そのため、壷阪口しか通っていません。大手道沿いにはまた、もっと多くの見所があるといいます。ですので、いつかこの道を通って城跡に再び行ってみたいです。 This time, I visited the ruins by car, so I only went through Tsubosaka Route. There are also many more attractions along the Main Route, so I would like to walk through the route, and visit the castle ruins again someday.
ここに行くには~How to get There
車で行く場合は、南阪奈道路の葛城ICから約30分かかります。八幡登山口にはとても狭い駐車スペースしかありません。そこから城跡まで更に歩いて約20分かかります。途中にある壷阪寺に駐車することもできますが、城跡までは歩いて約1時間です。 If you want to go there by car: It takes over 30 minutes from the Katsuragi IC on Minami-Hanna Road. There is very little space to park at the Hachiman starting point. You have to walk from there to the ruins for about another 20 minutes. You can also park at Tsubosaka-dera Temple on the way and walk to the ruins for about an hour. 電車の場合は、近鉄吉野線の壷阪山駅から歩いて約2時間の道のりです。かなり長い歩きとなりますが、観光シーズンには、多くのハイカーが歩きながら自然やくつろいだ雰囲気、そして城跡を楽しんでいます。 By train, It takes about two hours from Tsubosakayama Station on Kintetsu Yoshino line to the castle ruins on foot. It may be a long walk, but many hikers walk along the route and enjoy nature, a good atmosphere and the ruins in the tourist season.
リンク、参考情報~Links and References
・高取城、高取町観光ガイド(Takatori Town Official Website) ・「よみがえる日本の城1」学研(Japanese Book) ・「日本の城改訂版第105号」デアゴスティーニジャパン(Japanese Book) ・「幕末維新の城/一坂太郎著」中公新書(Japanese Book)