62.Wakayama Castle Part1

The castle was completed after three periods.

Location and History

Wakayama was one of largest cities in Japan

Wakayama Castle has been located in Wakayama City, the capital of Wakayama Prefecture which was called Kii Province. Now Wakayama may seem to be a local city which is far from the main artery of Japan between Tokyo, Osaka and Fukuoka. However, it was one of the ten largest cities in Japan until the Edo Period when the castle was on active service. This is because Wakayama area was once on the main route of water transportation between eastern and western Japan. As a result, the castle finally became the home base of the Tokugawa Clan, one of the three branches of the Tokugawa Family. In addition, the clan produced two Shoguns, Yoshimune and Iemochi Tokugawa, as the successors of the head family.

The range of Kii Province and the location of the castle

The portrait of Yoshimune Tokugawa, owned by Tokugawa Memorial Foundation (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Iemochi Tokugawa, owned by Tokugawa Memorial Foundation (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Period of Kuwayama Clan

In the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period, a group of the local lords, Saika-shu governed the area by themselves and often sent soldiers for other warlords. However, Hideyoshi Toyotomi, the ruler of Japan, conquered the area by destroying them in 1585. Hideyoshi then chose a hill and ordered his younger brother Hidenaga to build a new castle on it, that would be Wakayama Castle. Takatora Todo, one of Hidenaga’s retainers who would later become a master of castle construction, was responsible for it. After its completion, another retainer, the Kuwayama Clan lived in it. The history of Wakayama Castle is divided into three periods, one of which was done by the Kuwayama Clan. What the castle was like in the period is uncertain, but its range was roughly around the hill. This is because the old stones of Greenschist are still piled around the hill, which look very different from the other stone walls of the castle. The reason why the stones were first used was that they could easily get the stones from the hill itself or around.

The portrait of Hidenaga Toyotomi, owned by Shungakuin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Takatora Todo, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The stone walls surrounding the hill of Wakayama Castle

Period of Asano Clan

In 1600, the Asano Clan became the lord of the Kii Province, based in Wakayama Castle, while the Kuwayama Clan was transferred to another. The Asano Clan had a much larger territory than the Kuwayama Clan, so they improved the castle according to its structure. They built the Main Tower on the hill and the residences and tea-ceremony houses on new enclosures at the northern foot. These enclosures were surrounded by stone walls which were piled mainly using roughly processed sandstones. These stones were carried from the places some distance away such as Tomogashima Island, because they were easy to process. The Inner Moat also surrounded the enclosures in the north and east. The southern and western sides were protected by a natural sand dune in front of the sea. In addition, the Main Gate was moved from the south to north, because the castle town, the later Wakayama city area, was also developed in this direction. It is said that the basic structure of the castle was done by the Asano Clan.

The imaginary CG image of the Main Enclosure Main Hall in the Edo Period, from the signboard at the site
The illustration of Wakayama Castle, in the Edo Period, exhibited by Historical Wakayama Castle
The stone walls of the Sand Enclosure, built using sandstones

Period of Tokugawa Clan

In 1619, Yorinobu Tokugawa came to the castle, while the Asano Clan was transferred to Hiroshima Castle. The castle was improved by him as the home base of one of the three branches of the Tokugawa Family. To make the castle stronger, he built more enclosures on the sand dune such as Sunanomaru or the Sand Enclosure. These enclosures had high stone walls which were basically piled in the same way as the Asano Clan. Some of them would be later piled using more precisely processed granite porphyry stones called the Kumano Stone. Yorinobu built the Third Enclosure for warriors’ houses outside the Inner Moat in the north. He tried to develop the castle more by building the Outer Moat, but had to stop it, as the Tokugawa Shogunate including the head family was against it.

The portrait of Yorinobu Tokugawa, owned by Wakayama Prefectural Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The stone walls of the Nakagomon Gate Ruins, built using granite porphyry stones

In the peaceful time during the Edo Period, the center of the castle moved from the hill to the foot of it, for convenience of the government. The Second Enclosure at the northern foot had the Main Hall dividing Omote, Nakaoku, O-oku like the government office, official residence, and private residence. The hall looked like that of the Shogun, the head family in Edo Castle. The neighboring Western Enclosure was the cultural center of the castle. It had a Noh stage, a water garden, and a tea ceremony room, where the lord enjoyed and sometimes invited people. A roofed bridge called Ohashi-Roka or the Passage Bridge was built over the Inner Moat connecting the two enclosures, which only the lord and his relatives could use.

The illustration of the Second Enclosure (in the right) and Western Enclosure (in the left)
The water garden in the Western Enclosure and the Passage Bridge (in the back)

However, the Main Tower got burned down by the fire due to a lightning strike in 1846 but it was rebuilt in 1850. In 1945 during World War II, it got burdened down again due to an air raid, but was rebuilt with the same appearance in 1958. It is uncertain if the tower that got burned down was the one that the Asano clan built.

The miniature model of Wakayama Castle, exhibited by Historical Wakayama Castle
The present Main Tower of Wakayama Castle

To be continued in “Wakayama Castle Part2”

25.Kofu Castle Part1

A very important strongpoint for the Tokugawa Shogunate

Location and History

Mitsuyasu Kato might have developed it greatly

Kofu Castle was located in Kai Province (what is now Yamanashi Prefecture). Kai Province was owned by the Takeda Clan for a long time until 1582 when the clan was defeated by Nobunaga Oda. Since then the Oda clan governed the province but immediately followed by the Tokugawa, Toyotomi, and the Tokugawa clan again. Kofu City, which is the prefectural capital of the prefecture, had already been the castle town for the Takeda Clan Hall. It is said that the Tokugawa Clan first built Kofu Castle at the south of the town in 1583 of their first governance, but it is uncertain. In 1590, Toyotomi’s servant, Mitsuyasu Kato was given Kai Province. He improved Kofu Castle greatly, probably with building the large scale stone walls. This is because Toyotomi had the craftsmen who were able to build stone walls called Ano-shu, which Tokugawa didn’t have. It is thought that the basic structure of the castle was completed at the same time.

The location of the castle

The portrait of Mitsuyasu Kato, private owned (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Protected by High Stone Walls and Tripled Moats

The castle consisted of three parts. The main portion is called Uchi-shiro, it includes the Main Enclosure, the base for the Main Tower and other enclosures. It was surrounded by stone walls and the Inner Moat. It was also on a hill called Ichijo-koyama, and had three entrances – the Main Gate on the south, the Yamanote-mon Gate on the north, and the Yanagi-mon Gate on the west. The eastern part of the main portion is protected strictly by the high stone walls. Secondly, the ground for the warriors’ houses called Naikaku was around the main portion, surrounded by the Second Moat. Lastly, the ground for the castle town was around Naikaku, also surrounded by the Third Moat.

The old map of Kofu Castle, from a book “Rakushido-nenroku” by Yoshiyasu Yanagisawa, owned by The Yanagisawa Library (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The miniature model of the main portion of Kofu Castle, the front of the photo is the high stone walls on the east (an exhibition in the Inari Turret)

Important Strongpoint for protecting Edo

In the Edo Period from the 17th Century, Kofu Castle became a very important spot. The Tokugawa Shogunate set the Five Major Roads including the Kofu Road passing through Kofu town. Kofu was regarded as the western strongpoint to protect Edo (what is now Tokyo), the Shogun’s home base. For this reason, the Shogunate basically governed the castle directly. For example, the Shogun’s relative Tsunatoyo Tokugawa lived in the castle, who became the sixth Shogun Ienobu later. Yoshiyasu Yanagisawa was the first lord of the castle out of non-Shogun’s relatives in 1705, who was a senior vassal of the Shogunate. His son, Yoshiyasu was transferred to Yamato-Koriyama Castle in 1724, then Kofu Castle was Shogunate-owned again.

The positional relation between Kofu and Edo

The portrait of Yoshiyasu Yanagisawa, owned by Ichiren-ji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

In 1868 during the Meiji Restoration, the battle between the New Government and the Shogunate happened. Taisuke Itagaki, one of the leaders of the New Government Army thought they needed to capture Kofu Castle faster than the Shogunate. The Shogunate also sent the famous warrior party called the Shinsen-gumi led by Isami Kondo to Kofu Castle. Itagaki rushed and succeeded to enter the castle by a narrow margin, so that he could defeat the Shinsen-gumi.

The picture of Taisuke Itagaki, published by the Eastern Culture Association (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The picture of Isami Kondo, owned by the National Diet Library (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

To be continued in “Kofu Castle Part2”

145.Kokokuji Castle Part2

The earthen walls and the dry moats are outstanding.

Features

Going to Main Enclosure from Third Enclosure

Now, the marshland around Kokokuji Castle has been turned into the city area. Only the ruins of the castle remain. The modern Nekata Road goes through the ruins. If you visit the ruins by car, you can park at a parking lot in the Third Enclosure, the lowest one out of the three main enclosures. You can walk up from the parking lot to the top Main Enclosure along a gentle slope. The middle tier is the Second Enclosure which looks flat and empty, but it had a round-shaped moat in the past.

The aerial photo around the castle

The entrance of the castle ruins
The Third Enclosure with a parking lot
The Second Enclosure which had a moat

Main Enclosure and its Earthen Walls

The Main Enclosure is still surrounded by large high horseshoe-shaped earthen walls. It’s a fine sight. Inside of the enclosure, there are the monuments of Soun Hojo and Yasukage Amano, and the Homi Shrine which was founded in the Edo Period. The earthen walls on the back of the enclosure are 6m high, and you can walk up to the top by the steps. You can also see the stone walls partly built under the top. There are also foundation stones on the top which are considered the ruins of the base for the Main Tower, but it is thought that a kind of turret was there. You can see a view of the town area with Izu Pninsula on the south from the top.

The earthen walls surrounded by the horseshoe-shaped earthen walls
The monuments of Soun Hojo and Yasukage Amano
The Homi Shrine
The stone walls under the top
The stone foundation for “the base for the Main Tower” on the top
A view from the top

The Dry Moat of Main Enclosure and Northern Part

The large deep dry moat also remains behind the Main Enclosure. You can walk down from the top to the bottom of the moat by the steps as well. It is 18m deep where you can look up the top. You may wonder about the several earthen holes in the walls which were built as air-raid shelters during World War II. The edge of the moat leads to the side of the ruin of the castle which was part of the marshland in the past.

The dry moat behind the Main Enclosure
The air-raid shelters built during World War II
The western side of the ruins

There is also the North Enclosure over the dry moat on the north. Another round-shaped moat was over there, and it was turned into the railway track of Tokaido Shinkansen Super Express. Historians speculate that the set of the round-shaped moats were built by the Takeda Clan or the Tokugawa Clan who used to build similar systems in other castles.

The Main Enclosure seen from the North Enclosure
The railway track of Tokaido Shinkansen Super Express which was a moat

To be continued in “Kokokuji Castle Part3”
Back to “Kokokuji Castle Part1”