Now, the ruins of Takamatsu Castle have become Tamamo Park (tamamo is an old Japanese word which means something like “beautiful algae”.) The range of the park is inside the inner moat and part of the middle moat of the castle. The park has several entrances, but if you drive to the ruins of the park, you can park in front of the main gate called Asahi-mon. From the parking lot, you will see a great view of the remaining three-story turret called Ushitora-Yagura with the background of some modern buildings. The turret was actually moved from the Eastern Enclosure to the present position in 1967.
The aerial photo around the castle
Ushitora-Yagura Turret that can be seen from the parking lot
You can enter the gate after walking on the Asahi-bashi Bridge over the middle moat. You will also go through a square space surrounded by large stone walls called Masugata, which was built for defense.
Entering the Main Gate after crossing the Asahi-bashi BridgeThe Masugata space in the gate
Going Third, Second Enclosures, and Main Tower Base in Main Enclosure
The inside of the gate is the riding ground enclosure or Sakura-no-Baba which is now planted with lots of cherry trees. Then, you go across the earthen bridge to enter the ruins of the Sakura-mon Gate and the third enclosure. However, as of February 2022, the gate is under construction and scheduled to be restored by the spring of 2022, so you will have to use the temporary path.
The riding ground enclosureThe earthen bridge to the Third EnclosureThe Sakura-mon Gate under the restorationThe temporary path
The third enclosure still has a traditional hall, called Hiunkaku, which is not original to the castle, but was built as the house for the former lord, the Matsudaira Clan, in modern times. It is now owned by Takamatsu City and used for ceremonies and events. The enclosure also has a Japanese garden you can enjoy looking around.
The Hiunkaku HallThe Japanese garden in the Third Enclosure
You can go further from the third enclosure to the second enclosure and the main enclosure with the stone wall base for the Main Tower. The only way to get to the main enclosure is by crossing the restored roofed wooden bridge called saya-bashi.
From the Second Enclosure to the Main EnclosureThe Saya-bashi BridgeThe entrance of the bridge
You can also go on the top of the base and see a good city view, and inside of the base which was recently repaired. In fact, the city is considering restoring the main tower.
The stone wall base for the Main TowerThe inside of the base for the Main TowerA view of the sea around from the base
Tsukimi Turret beside Sea in old days
I recommend you also visit the northern side of the park, which was the sea in the past. You will see the other remaining three-story turret called Tsukimi-Yagura with the remaining Mizunote-mon Gate and the Watari-Yagura Turret. The Mizunote-mon Gate was open to the sea and is the only remaining such gate. The Tsukimi-Yagura Turret is also very beautiful with many decorations. You can imagine them standing out beside the sea in the past.
Tsukimi-Yagura Turret, Mizunote-mon Gate and Watari-Yagura TurretThis area in front of the turrets and gate was in the seaThe beautiful Tsukimi-Yagura Turret
この都市は城と一緒に発展してきました。
The city has developed with the castle.
立地と歴史～Location and History
岡山市の起源～The origin of Okayama City
岡山市は中国地方の岡山県の県都です。この市は岡山城を基盤に発展してきました。この城は現在、日本有数の庭園である後楽園と共に旭川に沿った観光地として知られています。しかし実際には多くの市街地がこの城の一部分から派生しているのです。 Okayama City is the capital of Okayama prefecture, Chugoku Region. The city has been developing based around Okayama Castle. The castle is now known for as a tourist spot alongside Asahigawa River with Korakuen, one of the most famous gardens in Japan. Actually, a lot of the city area comes from the part of the castle.
城の位置～The location of the castle
旭川沿いの岡山城（右）と後楽園（左）～Okayama Castle (on the right) and Korakuen Garden (on the left) alongside Asahigawa River
戦国時代、宇喜多氏が最初に旭川のデルタ地帯にあった丘の一つ、石山に城を築きました。宇喜多秀家は石山の東にあったもう一つの丘に城を拡張しました。この丘は岡山と呼ばれており、岡山城と、岡山市という名前両方の起源だったのです。 In the “Sengoku” or Warring States Period, the Ukita clan first built a castle on one of the hills called Ishiyama on the delta of Asahigawa River. Hideie Ukita expanded the castle into another hill in the east of Ishiyama. The hill was called Okayama, the origin of Okayama Castle and the name of the city.
現在の石山の地点～The present spot of “Ishiyama”石山から見た城の中心部～The center of the castle from Ishiyama
古い形式の天守～Old type Main Tower
秀家は天下人の豊臣秀吉に気に入られ、五大老の一人になり、大きな天守の建造を許されました。この天守は第二次世界大戦まで残っており、五階建てで、古い型である「望楼型」と呼ばれるものでした。入母屋造りの屋根を持った大きな櫓の上に、小さな望楼がありました。その石垣の基礎とその上の一階は、丘の形に沿って建造されました。これらは最も初期の天守の形式を残していると言われ、日本最初の本格的天守を持った安土城とも比較できるものです。 Hideie who was trusted by the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi, became one of the five chief ministers, and was allowed to build a large Main Tower or “Tenshu”. The Tenshu remained until World War II. It was a five story building in an old style called “boro-gata” or look-out tower style. It had a small look-out tower on a large scale turret with hip-and-gable roofs. Its base stone walls and the first story above were constructed along the shape of the hill. They are said to remain the very first Tenshu style compared with that of Azuchi Castle, the first typical Tenshu in Japan.
宇喜多秀家肖像画、岡山城蔵～The Portrait of Hideie Ukita, owned by Okayama Castle （licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）第二次世界大戦前の岡山城の古写真～An old photo of Okayama Castle before World War II（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
岡山城の完成～Completion of Okayama Castle
この城の城主は、秀家が１６００年の関ヶ原の戦いで敗れた後変わります。江戸時代には、小早川氏、そして池田氏が城と城下町の拡張を続けました。旭川は、自然の障壁として城のデルタ地帯の北から南東へ流れています。結果として城は西の方角へ広がりました。水堀はその方角に向かって五重にも掘られました。 The lords of the castle were changed after Hideie was defeated in the battle of Sekigahara in 1600. The Kobayakawa clan, then the Ikeda clan continued to improv the castle and the castle town in the Edo Period. Asahigawa River flows along the delta of the castle from the north to the southeast being a natural hazard. As a result the castle was expanded into the west direction. They made water moats quintupled towards the direction.
備前国岡山城絵図部分、江戸時代～Part of the illustration of Okayama Castle in Bizen Province, in the Edo Period（出典：国立公文書館）
城を守るため、多くの門や櫓も建てられました。１７００年、後楽園が川向かいの城とは反対側に作られました。その頃には既に平和な時代になっていたのです。 They also built many turrets and gates to protect the castle. In 1700, Korakuen garden was made in the opposite of the castle across the river. It shows it had already been in peace at that time.
後楽園の風景～A view of Korakuen Garden（taken by grandstream from photoAC）
特徴～Features
街中の遺跡～Ruins in City Area
城周辺の航空写真～The aerial photo of around the castle
現在、岡山城の中心部である本丸は、烏城（カラスの城という意味）公園として整備されています。この名前は天守が黒く塗られていたことによります。公園は岡山駅から２ｋｍのところにあります。城はかつてはその中間辺りまで広がっていました。そのため、公園の外にもいくつか城の遺跡があります。例えば、以前は西の丸で現在の市街地に残っている西手櫓です。この櫓は重要文化財に指定されています。でもビルに囲まれてさみしそうに見えます。 Now, the center of Okayama Castle, Honmaru enclosure has been developed as Ujo Park (Ujo means Crow Castle). The name comes from the Tenshu being painted black. The park is about 2 km from Okayama Station. The castle once spread to half of the way in the past, so there are some ruins of the castle outside the park. For example, Nishite Turret on the former Nishinomaru enclosure remains in the city area. It is designated as an Important Cultural Property, but it looks lonely among modern buildings.
西手櫓 ～Nishite Turret
石山曲輪跡は公園の近くにあります。ここは城の最初の中心地でした。現在は駐車場として使われています。曲輪を覆う石垣は江戸時代に作られたようです。 The ruins of Ishiyama enclosure is near the park. It was the first center of the castle, and is now used as a parking lot. The stone walls covering the enclosure seem to be built in the Edo Period.
石山曲輪～Ishiyama enclosure
本丸の遺跡～Ruins in Honmaru
本丸周辺の航空写真～The aerial photo of around Honmaru
以前の本丸であった公園には二つの入口があります。その一つは内堀の上の目安橋を渡っていくルートです。これは本丸に至る大手道でした。もう一つは川沿いにある廊下門を通るもので、本丸の裏門に当たります。ここからは川にたたずむ城の姿が望めます。 The park, the former Honmaru, has two entrances. One of them is the route crossing Meyasu-bashi Bridge over the inner moat. It was the Main Route or “Ote-Michi” to Honmaru. The other is going through Roka-mon Gate beside the river, the back gate of Honmaru. You can have a good view of the castle with the river.
目安橋～Meyasu-bashi Bridge廊下門～Roka-mon Gate
本丸は三段に分かれています。低い段は「下の段」と呼ばれ、門の周辺を指します。真ん中の段は「表向」と呼ばれ、居住や統治のための御殿がありました。ここには重要文化財である月見櫓が残っています。この櫓は、本末の外側からも素晴らしい石垣とともに鑑賞できます。上の段は、「本段」と呼ばれ、最も古い箇所です。不明門がその入り口にあります。ここには創建以来の天守と、藩主の御殿がありました。 Honmaru has three levels of the ground. The lower level called Genodan is the area around the gates. The middle level called Omotemuki is where the hall for official residence and governance was. Tsukimi Turret remains there as an Important Cultural Property. It can also be seen with excellent stone walls from outside Honnmaru. The upper level called Hondan is the oldest part. Akazuno-mon Gate is its entrance. It had the original Tenshu and the main hall for a lord.
現在の天守は、外観復元され、博物館として使われています。本段を囲む石垣は元々秀家により築かれました。とても古風に見えます。 The present Tenshu has been apparently restored and used as a museum. The stone walls surrounding Hondan were originally built by Hideie. They look very old.
外観復元された天守～The apparently restored Tenshu本段を囲む石垣～The stone walls surrounding the upper level
その後～Later History
明治維新後、岡山城は廃城となり、ほとんどの建物は撤去されました。本丸であった場所は学校の敷地として使われました。他の場所は市街地に変わっていき、堀は埋められました。元からあった天守は国宝として残りました。しかしながら、残念なことに１９４５年の岡山空襲で焼け落ちてしまいました。第二次世界大戦後、本丸は烏城公園として整備されました。１９６６年に天守は外観復元されまます。廊下門と不明門の２つの門も同時に外観復元されました。 After the Meiji Restoration, Okayama Castle was abandoned and almost all of its buildings were demolished. The Honmaru area was used as the ground for a school. The other areas of the castle were turned into the city area with their water moats being filled. The original Tenshu remained as a National Treasure. However, it was unfortunately burned down by the Okayama Air Raid in 1945. After World War II, the Honmaru area was been developed as Ujo Park. Tenshu was apparently restored in 1966. The two gates, Roka-mon and Akazuno-mon , were also restored apparently at the same time.
岡山城の鯱～A golden grampus of Okayama Castle
私の感想～My Impression
今は烏城公園と名付けられた岡山城に是非行っていただきたいです。後楽園と一緒に見学すればとてもよい思い出になります。願わくば、元の天守を見て、中に入ってみたかったです。あと、岡山市にはもっと市民に、岡山城が市の起源であることを知らせてもらいたいです。例えば、現存して街中に残る西手櫓はもっと知られるべきと思います。 Okayama Castle which is now named Ujo Park is a good place to visit. You can have great views and experience together with Korakuen Garden. I wish I could see and enter the original Tenshu. I also hope that officials will let people know the castle is the origin of Okayama City. For example, the remaining Nishite Turret among the city area should be known more to people.
西手櫓 ～Nishite Turret
ここに行くには～How to get There
車で行く場合：山陽自動車道の岡山ＩＣから約２０分かかります。公園に駐車場があります。 岡山駅から行く場合：駅の東口の岡山駅前電停から路面電車に乗って、城下電停で降りてください。岡山駅から歩いた場合、約２０～３０分かかります。 If you want to go there by car: It takes about 20 minutes from the Okayama IC on the Sanyo Expressway. The park offers a parking lot. From Okayama Station: Take the tram from the Okayama-ekimae stop in front of the east exit of the station, and get off at the Joka stop. Or It takes about 20 to 30 minutes on foot from the station.
松本城、特にその天守は現在の長野県松本市において際立った存在です。しかし、現在までの道のりは平坦ではありませんでした。１６世紀に小笠原氏が最初にこの地に城を築き、しばらくして松本城と名付けました。１５９０年、石川氏がここに移され、城の拡張に手をつけ、そして天守を建てました。何度か改築の後、松平氏によって１６３３年に現在と同じ姿に至りました。 The Matsumoto castle, particularly its keep “Tenshu” is outstanding now in Matsumoto city, Nagano prefecture. But the road to present has not been smooth. In the 16th century, the Ogasawara clan first built the castle in this area. After a while, they named it Matsumoto castle. In 1590, the Ishikawa clan were transferred to the area and started to spread the castle and they also built the Tenshu. It was modified several times and reached the same appearance as now in 1633 by the Matsudaira clan.
松本城航空写真（The aerial photo of Matsumoto Castle）
Features
城の歴史は長いですが、城のシンボルはとにかく天守に尽きます。天守は「大天守」「乾小天守」２つの櫓「辰巳附櫓」「月見櫓」から成っていて、互いにつながっている構造です。大天守は、東日本で唯一の現存５層天守であり、黒く輝いている姿を見ることができるのは、下見板（板壁）に毎年特別な漆が塗られているからなのです。 In spite of its long history, the symbol of the castle is just the Tenshu. It consists of the large keep “Dai-Tenshu”, the Inui small keep “Sho-Tenshu”, and two turrets (Tatsumi-Tsuke Yagura and Tsukimi Yagura) which are connected to each other. Daitenshu is the only one remaining and its five-story castle keep in the east Japan. It has a brilliant black colored look coming from wooden side walls painted with special Japanese lacquer, annually.
天守西面、左から乾小天守、大天守（The west side of Tenshu. Inui Sho-Tenshu, Dai-Tenshu from the left）天守南面、左から大天守、辰巳附櫓、月見櫓（The south side of Tenshu. Dai-Tenshu, Tatsumi-Tsuke-Yagura, Tsukimi-Yagura from the left）
松本城は、同じく５層の大天守を持つ姫路城とよく比較されるのですが、姫路城の方は西日本にあって白亜に塗られており、とても対照的です。松本城の天守はまた、国宝に指定されている現存５天守の１つとなっています（他は、姫路、彦根、犬山、松江）。 It is often compared with the Himegi castle’s equally five-story Dai-Tenshu painted in white clearly in the west Japan by contrast. Matsumoto castle’s Tenshu is also designated as one of the 5 remaining keeps of Japan’s national treasures (the others are Himeji, Hikone, Inuyama and Matsue).
「白い」姫路城天守（The “white” Himeji castle keep）
そもそも城の装備、例えば石落としや狭間などは正に戦いのために作られているのですが、それに加えてよくデザインされ、各層の屋根ともよくマッチしています。 Basically its devices such as machicolations and loopholes were built just for battles, they were also well designed and match each story’s roof.
松本城の石落とし（One of Matsumoto castle’s machicolations）takeen by あけび from photo AC
この城の美しく調和が取れた姿は、歴史ファンだけでなく、写真家、芸術家、一般の観光客を魅了しています。一例として、日本アルプスを背景にした松本城は、ともよい写真の主題になると思います。 Its beautiful total balance of the castle has been attracting not only history fans but also photographers, artists and everyday visitors. For example, Matsumoto castle with the background of the Japan Alps could be a very good photo subject.
日本アルプスを背景にした松本城（Matsumoto Castle with the background of the Japan Alps）
天守の中に入ることもできます。実は内部は６階建てです。ほとんど木材によりながら、こんなにも頑丈に作られていることに驚かれることでしょう。但し、内部はどちらかといえば暗く狭く、階段は急です。ですので動きやすい服装で登閣されることをおすすめします。 You can also get in the inside of the Tenshu which in fact consists of 6 floors. You may be surprised to see how strong it is built by using mainly wooden materials. But the inside is relatively dark and narrow, and stairways are steep. So it is recommended to wear comfortable clothes.
松本城天守の内部（A view of the inside of Matsumoto castle’s Tenshu）taken by あけび from photo AC
Later Life
その後の松本城はとてもシビアでした。まず江戸時代、本丸御殿が焼け落ちたとき、松本藩の藩士たちは必死に働き、天守に火が及ぶのを防ぎました。明治維新の後、他の建物が皆撤去されていき、ついには天守も売られてしまい、廃材として解体されるところでした。ここで社会運動家の市川量造が登場し、買主に待ってもらうよう頼み、その間に資金を集め、ついには買い戻しに成功しました。 The later life of Matsumoto castle was very severe. In the Edo period, when the Honmaru main hall was burned down, warriors of the feudal domain of Matsumoto worked their hardest to prevent Tenshu from burning. After the Meiji restoration, all of the other buildings were removed, and finally Tenshu was sold to possibly be for waste material. Ryozo Ichikawa, a social campaigner came out, then asked the buyer to suspend, after that he collected money to get it back, and was successful in the end.
明治時代の天守写真、松本城管理事務所蔵（The picture of Tenshu in the Meiji Era, owned by Matsumoto Castle Management Bureau）licensed under public domain via Wikimedia Commons
しかしながら、それだけでは不十分でした。このような大きく古い建物の維持には、継続的なメンテナンスが必要なのです。明治中期には、天守は柱の腐りから６度傾いてしまい、中にはコウモリが住む有様でした。ここでもう一人の救世主、学校の校長であった小林有也が登場し、城の修復に尽力しました。そしてついには松本城は国宝に指定されたのです。更には最近では、天守の周りに過去にあった門、黒門そして太鼓門が再建されています。 However, that was not enough for the castle. Such a large and old building is needed to do continuous maintenance to keep. In the middle Meiji era, Tenshu got to lean at about six degrees due to central pillars decayed, and bats lived in it. Another savior, school head Unari Kobayashi worked hard to repair the castle. At last the castle was designated as a national treasure. In addition, other traditional gates around Tenshu such as Kuromon and Taikomon has been rebuilt these days.
太鼓門（The Taikomon）
My Impression
もし天守に入りたいのであれば、十分な時間を確保していただいた方がよいと思います。恐らく天守に入る人たちの列に並ばなければならず、１時間近くは待つことになるでしょう。ここ数年有名どころの城巡りがブームになっているからです。 I would like to say that you would better have enough time to spend if you want to get in Tenshu, as there might be a long line. It may take nearly 1 hour in line because visiting famous castles has become more popular over the last few years.
天守南西面（The southwest side of the Tenshu）
そして、もう一つお願いとしては、この城を守ることに尽力した２人の功労者に敬意を表していただきたいのです。黒門の内側に、２人の顕彰碑があるので是非ご覧ください。 And my another suggestion is to show respect to two saviors who kept the castle intact, by looking at the plaque of them that is placed inside the gate of Kuromon.
黒門（The Kuromon) taken by あけび from photo AC
How to get There
松本駅またはバスターミナルから歩いて約１５分。車の場合は、城の周辺にいくつか駐車場があります。 東京から：北陸新幹線で長野駅まで行き、篠ノ井線の普通列車に乗り換えてください（電車の場合）。または新宿バスターミナルから直行高速バスに乗ってください（バスの場合）。 It takes about 15 minutes on foot from the Matsumoto train station or bus terminal. When using a car, there are few parking lots around the castle. From Tokyo: Go to Nagano on Hokuriku shinkansen super express, transfer local train on Shinonoi line (train). Or take a direct highway bus at the Shinjuku bus terminal (bus)
