197.Shibushi Castle part3

Wonderful molding using natural terrain

Features

Nakanokuo, Pivot of Defense

Over the dry moat, the other major enclosures of Nakanokuo (the enclosure No.4 & 5) and Onokuo (the enclosure No.6 & 15) follow and are all divided by other dry moats crosswise. In particular, you should check out Nakanokuo (the enclosure No.5), over Nakanokuo (the enclosure No.4). To reach the enclosure, you need to go out of the Main Enclosure, go through the right lengthwise dry moat from the front, and enter the second crosswise dry moat. The bottom of the moat is not flat, but has two tiers, so you also need to climb to the upper tier.

The map around Uchijo portion, the red broken line is the route from the Main Enclosure to Nakaokuo (the enclosure No.5)

The right lengthwise dry moat
This is the second crosswise dry moat
The second crosswise dry moat has two tiers

Then, you will face huge vertically cut cliff of the enclosure like a thick column and need to walk around to enter. If you were an enemy, you must have been attacked by the defenders from above until then. The entrance path is altered by thick earthen walls as well, just like a palace gate made of soil. This enclosure might have been pivotal to the defense in the castle.

The vertical cliff of Nakanokuo (the enclosure No.5) ‘s side
The entrance of the enclosure
The earthen walls surrounding the enclosure
The inside of the enclosure
Looking down the bottom of the moat from the enclosure
The part of Nakaokuo (the enclosure No.5) of the miniature model exhibited in Shibushi City Center for Archaeological operations

Amazing Dry Moats

Both the lengthwise dry moats outside the plateau are amazing. The dry moat on the left side from the front (the western side) is called O-Horikiri or the Large Ditch. It is about 17m deep and was about 7m deeper than now according to the excavation. The collapsing volcanic ash has been filling the bottom of the moat naturally. However, it is still enough for us to understand how great the warrior’s work for the moat was.

The Large Ditch
The part of the Large Ditch of the miniature model

The dry moat on the right side is also surprising. The cut section of the outside enclosure is still vivid making us understand how hard their work was!

The cut section of the enclosure’s side

The Back Route of the castle goes beside the cut section and very narrow like the Main Route. It must have been made very defensive like the Main Route.

The narrow Back Route
The entrance of the Back Route
The part of the Back Route of the miniature model

Later History

After Shibushi Castle was abandoned, the foot of the mountain was used as the warriors’ residences called Shibushi Fumoto. Fumoto refers to a residence area for a unique defense system of the Satsuma Domain led by the Shimazu Clan, called Tojo or the Outer Castles, during the Edo Period. Unlike other domains letting their retainers live together in their home base, the Satsuma Domain sent many of its retainers to their local sites to protect the frontiers of its territory. Shibushi Fumoto was one of the most important among over 100 Fumoto of the domain. You can also walk around the Fumoto area at the same time as visiting Shibushi Castle Ruins. As for the castle ruins, they have been excavated and researched since 2003. As a result, they were designated as a National Historic Site in 2005.

The area around still has an atmosphere of Shibushi Fumoto

My Impression

I have never seen such a large and precise miniature model of a mountain castle like the one of Shibushi Castle (Uchijo portion) in Shibushi City Center for Archaeological operations before. I have certainly seen large and precise miniature models of more modern castles like Himeji Castle because they often had or still have many buildings such as the Main Tower, turrets and gates, and great structures such as stone walls. They would be easy to be copied for a model and the model can be popular with people. On the other hand, making models of a mountain castle should be difficult and may be less popular, so it could be rare, especially realistic ones. However, the miniature model of Shubushi Castle is one of the rarely seen models, worth to see by itself, and helps visitors understand what the real castle was very well.

The miniature model of Uchijo, exhibited by Shibushi City Center for Archaeological operations

How to get There

If you want to visit the castle ruins by car, it is about a 15 minute drive away from Shibushi IC on the Miyakonojo-Shibushi Road. There is a parking lot for visitors near the ruins. In addition, Shibushi City Center for Archaeological operations is about 3km away from the ruins and it also has a parking lot.
If you want to use public transportation, it takes about 20 minutes on foot to get there form JR Shibushi Station.
For visitors from Tokyo or Osaka: It may be a good idea to rent a car at Kagoshima or Miyazaki Airports after using a plane.

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Shibushi Castle Part1”
Back to “Shibushi Castle Part2”

197.志布志城 その3

自然の地形を生かした見事な造形

特徴、見どころ

防衛の要所、中野久尾

その空堀の向こうには、「中野久尾(なかのくび)(曲輪4)」「中野久尾(曲輪5)」「大野久尾(おおのくび)(曲輪6)」「大野久尾(曲輪15)」といった主要曲輪が、横方向の空堀に区切られて続いています。特に、「中尾久尾(曲輪4)」の向こう側の「中尾久尾(曲輪5)」は注目です。この曲輪に着くためには本丸を出て、城跡入口正面から見て右側の縦方向の空堀を進み、2番目の横方向の空堀に入っていきます。その空堀の底は平らではなく2段になっています。よって、また上段の方に登って行かなければなりません。

内城周辺の地図、赤破線は本丸から中野久尾(曲輪5)までのルート

縦方向右側の空堀
これは本丸から出て最初の横方向の空堀
2番目の横方向の空堀は2段構成になっています

そうすると、太い柱のような、巨大な垂直に削られた曲輪の崖に突き当たり、曲輪に入るにはその崖を回り込む必要があります。もし敵であったなら、入口にたどり着く前に上方から守備兵に攻撃されてしまうでしょう。また、入口の通路も、分厚い食い違い状の土塁によって曲げられています。まるで土造りの宮殿の門のようです。この曲輪は城防衛の要の場所だったのかもしれません。

中野久尾(曲輪5)の側面の垂直な崖
曲輪の入口
曲輪を囲む土塁
曲輪の内部
曲輪から見た空堀の底
志布志市埋蔵文化財センターにある模型の中野久尾(曲輪5)部分

見事な空堀

台地の両外側に刻まれた空堀は見事なものです。城跡の入口から見て左側(西側)の縦方向の空堀は、大堀切と呼ばれています。現在でも17mの深さがあり、発掘調査によると過去には更に7m深かったとのことです。火山灰の土壌が自然に崩れて堀の底を埋めていっているのです。しかしそれでもこの堀を作った大変な作業は今でも十分に想像できます。

大堀切
上記模型の大堀切部分

右側の空堀もまた驚きに値します。外側の曲輪の切断面はいまだに生々しく、これもまた大変な仕事であったろうと感嘆します。

曲輪側面の切断面

城の搦手道は、その切断面の脇を通っていて、大手道のようにとても狭くなっています。ここもまた大手道と同じような防御の仕組みが施されていたのです。

狭くなっている搦手道
搦手道入口
上記模型の搦手道部分

その後

志布志城が廃城となった後、城があった山の麓は「麓(ふもと)」と呼ばれる武家屋敷群として使われました。麓とは、島津氏による薩摩藩が江戸時代の間採用した独特の防御システム(「外城(とじょう)」と呼ばれました)により設定された居住区域のことを言います。本拠地に藩士を集住させた他の藩とは違い、薩摩藩は多くの藩士を周辺地に送り込み、領地の辺境地帯の防衛に当たらせました。志布志麓は、100以上もある麓の中でも最も重要なものの一つでした。志布志城跡を巡るのと同時に、その麓地区を歩いて回ることができます。城跡に関しては、2003年以来発掘調査が行われていて、その結果、2005年には国の史跡に指定されています。

志布志麓の雰囲気を残す街並み

私の感想

私は、志布志市埋蔵文化財センターにある志布志城(内城部分)の模型ほど大きく且つ精巧な山城の模型を、かつて見たことがありませんでした。確かに、姫路城のようなもっと近代的な城の、大きくて精巧な模型であれば見たことはあります。そのような城には、天守、櫓、門のような建物や、石垣のような立派な構造物が現在に残っている場合がよくあるからです。それであれば、その模型を作ることは比較的簡単であり、人々の注目も浴びやすいでしょう。一方、山城の模型を作ることは難しい面があり、人気もでないでしょう。だから稀であり、本物そっくりという訳にもなかなかいきません。ところが、この志布志城の模型はその稀な例の一つであり、これを見るだけでも行くに値します。そして本物の城がどのようであったのかビジターが理解する手助けになります。

志布志城(内城)のすばらしい模型

ここに行くには

車で行く場合:都城志布志道路の志布志ICから約15分かかります。城跡の近くにビジター向け駐車場があります。また、志布志市埋蔵文化財センターは城跡から約3km離れたところにあり、ここにも駐車場があります。
公共交通機関を使う場合は、JR志布志駅から歩いて約20分かかります。
東京または大阪からくる場合:飛行機で鹿児島空港か宮崎空港にいき、そこからレンタカーを借りるのがよいと思います。

リンク、参考情報

志布志城跡、志布志市公式ホームページ
・「日本の城改訂版第105号」デアゴスティーニジャパン
・「志布志市埋蔵文化財センター 志布志城跡リーフレット紹介(城主編)

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「志布志城その1」に戻ります。
「志布志城その2」に戻ります。

197.Shibushi Castle part2

You can experience a castle on the Shirasu Plateau well after looking at a great miniature model.

Features

Great miniature model of Castle Ruins

Today, only the main portion of the ruins of Shibushi Castle called Uchijo has been developed for general visitors. The ruins had been reclaimed by nature after its abandonment, so the officials installed wooden footpaths and guide signboards so that visitors can walk safely and not to lose their way.

The map around the castle

A wooden path installed in the castle ruins
A guide signboard installed in the castle ruins

In addition, I recommend visiting Shibushi City Center for Archaeological operations to see the great miniature model of the Uchijo portion before visiting the real Uchijo. It is a 1/200 scale model which is about 2m long and 1.25m wide, very large for a miniature model, but it is also precisely crafted. You can see how deeply and vertically the dry moats are cut and how the many enclosures equipped with buildings and fences are built by looking at it. If you also check the point of the Main Route and the Back Route of the model, you will understand how they worked well when you visit the real site.

The miniature model of the Uchijo, exhibited in Shibushi City Center for Archaeological operations

Going beside outstanding Turret Place to Main Route

The ruins of Uchijo are on the mountain behind Shibushi Primary School. If you drive to the ruins, you can park at a parking lot for visitors on the opposite side of the school. From the parking lot, go straight on the street beside it, if you want to visit the Main Route of the ruins. Otherwise, if you turn left at the intersection in front of the parking lot, you will reach the Back Route. The signpost leads you to the very narrow path to the Main Route between the school and old houses.

The parking lot for visitors
Going to the Main Route
Going on the narrow path

The ruins has 6 major and many other small enclosures and the first major one called Yaguraba or the Turret Place stands out with its vertical cliff on your right side before the Main Route entrance. Even today’s visitors may be scared to see it. There is no telling how enemies in the past felt.

The map around the Uchijo portion, the red broken line is the route from the parking lot to the Main Route, and the blue broken line is the route to the Back Route

The Turret Place on the right
The vertical cliff of the Turret Place
the ruins of buildings on the Turret Place
The Turret Place part of the miniature model

Main Route on Bottom of Moat

The Main Route climbs up the zigzagged path on the bottom of a deep dry moat to the center of the castle. The path is always surrounded by several high enclosures where the defenders would have attacked enemies. All the enclosures have a similar vertical cliff and defensive entrance called Koguchi to which you need to climb another very steep, unstable and zigzagging path. If you get out of the path, you will be stuck in the rough slope with bushes and the fragile soil made of the volcanic ash. These structures were all created artificially by processing the natural Shirasu plateau.

The entrance of the Main Route
The zigzagging Main Route
The entrance of the Enclosure No.2 on the right of the Main Route
The inside of the Enclosure No.2
The Main Route goes on the bottom of the moat
the Main Route part of the miniature model

Main Enclosure with view of Shibushi Port

After walking in the dry moat for a while, you can enter the Main Enclosure on your left. The enclosure has two tiers which are squares with no buildings but surrounded by earthen walls, same as the others. The front lower tier seemed to be used as a lookout, so it is thought to have had a tall turret. You can still actually see a view of Shibushi Port with the Sunflower ferry anchored. This may also prove the relation of the castle and the trading at the port in the past.

The entrance of the Main Enclosure
The lower tier of the Main Enclosure
A view of Shibushi Port from the enclosure
The Main Enclosure part of the miniature model
Looking down at the Main Route from the enclosure

The upper tier is the highest in the castle, where a large building like a residence was built. It might have been used for the lord of the castle when a battle happened or other cases. There is only a small shrine in the back of the enclosure, with a huge deep dry moat behind it.

The upper tier of the Main Enclosure
The earthen walls surrounding the Main Enclosure
The small shrine in the back of the enclosure
The deep dry moat behind the shrine

To be continued in “Shibushi Castle Part3”
Back to “Shibushi Castle Part1”