164.洲本城 その1

淡路島にある素晴らしい城

立地と歴史

独立した淡路国に築かれた城

洲本城は、日本の本州と四国、そして2つの細い海峡(明石海峡と鳴門海峡)に挟まれた淡路島にありました。また、淡路島は播磨灘、大阪湾、紀伊海峡にも囲まれています。この島は、日本の中心とされた京都にも近く、近代以前には、特に海上交通をコントロールしたり監視したりするための重要な拠点と見なされていました。その結果、淡路島は、淡路国として独立した国となっていました(現在では兵庫県の一部となっています)。

MarkerMarker
洲本城
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
城の位置

戦国時代の16世紀、三好氏の配下であった安宅(あたぎ)氏が最初に洲本城を築き、水軍を率いました。しかし、安宅氏は1581年に天下人の豊臣秀吉に降伏しました。秀吉は(一旦仙石久秀にこの城を与えますが)最終的には1585年に、部下の脇坂安治(わきざかやすはる)を洲本城に送り込みます。安治は、大洲城に転封となる1609年までの24年間、洲本藩の藩主としてこの城を統治しました。

脇坂安治肖像画、龍野神社蔵 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

脇坂安治が大幅に強化

洲本城は、もともと土造りの単純な山城であり、三熊山の上に築かれました。その頂からは、周辺の海域(東側の大阪湾と南側の紀伊水道)を見渡すことができます。安治は、洲本城を大幅に改修し、山の上に石垣や天守を含む多くの櫓を築きました。こういった城の構造は、秀吉やその部下たちによって成された典型的な築城方法でした。この築城方法は、秀吉の天下統一事業の間、日本中に広まりました。城をより強化することで、人々に権威を誇示していたのです。安治はまた、山麓に御殿を築き、城下町を開設しました。彼は最後に、登り石垣と呼ばれる階段状の石垣を、山麓と山頂をつなぐ直通ルートとして建設しました。登り石垣は、安治を含む数名の大名が、朝鮮侵攻の際、連絡あるいは防衛のために開発したものです。洲本城にあるものは、現存する数少ない登り石垣の一つです。安治は、日本に戻った後、登り石垣を洲本城に応用したのです。これにより、洲本城は完成したとされています。

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洲本城
Leaflet|国土地理院
城周辺の起伏地図

本丸の石垣
登り石垣

一時は廃城に

ところが、安治が転封となった後、洲本城は他の大名たち(池田氏、蜂須賀氏)によって使用されませんでした。これは、淡路国がその大名たちの所領の一部になったこと(池田氏は播磨国、蜂須賀氏は阿波国が本拠)、淡路国では他の城を支城として使ったこと(岩屋城や由良城)がその理由です。更には、洲本城は、1615年に徳川幕府により発せられた一国一城令により一時廃城となってしまいます。山上の全ての建物は、当時淡路国と阿波国(現在の徳島県)を治めていた蜂須賀氏によって撤去されました。一説によると、洲本城が廃城となる前に、その天守が脇坂安治により大洲城に移設されたとのことです。大洲城の天守の形式が、安治が洲本城にいた時に一般的であった天守の形式の一つに該当するそうです。

MarkerMarkerMarker
洲本城
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
淡路島にあった支城群の位置

大洲城

蜂須賀氏の支城として石垣を維持

1631年、蜂須賀氏は、何らかの理由で洲本城を淡路国の支城として復旧しました(交通の便のためとも言われています。それまで使っていた、大阪湾入口近くにあった由良城は廃城となりました)。蜂須賀氏は、家老の稲田氏を城代として城に派遣しました。しかし、城の中心部は山の麓に設定され、城主の御殿が再建されました(御殿は城主である蜂須賀氏のためであり、稲田氏は別の屋敷に住んでいました)。山の部分は基本的には脇坂氏が築いた石垣のみが維持され、新しい門がいくつか添えられただけでした。これは恐らく、蜂須賀氏にとって、本拠地の徳島城とは違い、洲本城はあくまで支城の一つであり、山上は非常時にのみ必要な場所だったからでしょう。この城の珍しい形態は、19世紀半ばの江戸時代末期まで維持されました。

淡路国(洲)本城下之絵図、江戸時代(出展:国立国会図書館)山上部分は既に石垣のみとなっています
山麓部分の城跡 (licensed by Reggaeman via Wikimedia Commons)

「洲本城その2」に続きます。

77.Takamatsu Castle Part3

Will the Main Tower be restored?

Features

Remaining Stone Walls in City Area

If you have more time, how about visiting the eastern area of the park, the former Eastern Enclosure? The area was turned into a city area, but part of the original stone walls remain among modern buildings. The remaining Ushitora-Yagura Turret was originally built in this area.

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Ushitora Turret Ruins
Leaflet|国土地理院
The aerial photo around the castle

The remaining stone walls among modern buildings
The Ushitora-Yagura Turret was built on these stone walls

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Takamatsu Castle was abandoned, most of its buildings including the Main Tower were demolished, and many parts of it were turned into the city area. However, the former lords of the castle, the Matsudaira Clan bought the remaining primary part of the castle and lived in it. The part finally became the public Tamamo Park in 1955. The remaining turrets and gate were also designated as Important Cultural Properties in 1950.

The Hiunkaku Hall where the Matsudaira Clan lived after the Meiji Restoration
The remaining Ushitora-Yagura Turret

In addition, Takamatsu City is collecting records to restore the Main Tower. The tower had three-layers and four-stories. Its appearance was very rare, with the first and forth floors overhanging, called Nanban-zukuri or the Western Style. The city has confirmed its external appearance while its interior is still largely unknown. It is asking the citizens to offer old pictures and documents, even offering rewards.

The present stone wall base for the Main Tower
The old photo of the Main Tower, from the signboard at the site
The external view of the restored Main Tower, from the signboard at the site

My Impression

I’m very interested in the plan to restore the Main Tower of Takamatsu Castle. If the restoration is done, the castle may look like a floating castle on the waves again. However, the essential value of castle ruins belongs to the remaining items. In the case of Takamatsu Castle, I like the remaining Tsukimi-Yagura Turret the best, but it doesn’t stand out like it used to. I hope the officials also think about how the turret looked in the past.

The remaining Tsukimi-Yagura Turret
The reclaimed land in front of the Tsukimi Turret

How to get There

If you want to visit by car:
It is about 20 minutes away from Takamatsu IC on the Takamatsu Expressway.
You can park at Tamamo Park.
By train, it is few minutes away from JR Takamatsu Station on foot.
To get to Takamatsu Station from Tokyo or Osaka: Take the Tokaido or Sanyo Shinkansen super express and transfer at Okayama Station to the Seto-Ohashi Line. Take a train called the Marine Liner bound for Takamatsu.

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Takamatsu Castle Part1”
Back to “Takamatsu Castle Part2”

77.Takamatsu Castle Part2

A glimpse of Sea Castle remains.

Features

To Inside of Castle with seeing Ushitora Turret

Now, the ruins of Takamatsu Castle have become Tamamo Park (tamamo is an old Japanese word which means something like “beautiful algae”.) The range of the park is inside the inner moat and part of the middle moat of the castle. The park has several entrances, but if you drive to the ruins of the park, you can park in front of the main gate called Asahi-mon. From the parking lot, you will see a great view of the remaining three-story turret called Ushitora-Yagura with the background of some modern buildings. The turret was actually moved from the Eastern Enclosure to the present position in 1967.

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Main Gate
Leaflet|国土地理院
The aerial photo around the castle

Ushitora-Yagura Turret that can be seen from the parking lot

You can enter the gate after walking on the Asahi-bashi Bridge over the middle moat. You will also go through a square space surrounded by large stone walls called Masugata, which was built for defense.

Entering the Main Gate after crossing the Asahi-bashi Bridge
The Masugata space in the gate

Going Third, Second Enclosures, and Main Tower Base in Main Enclosure

The inside of the gate is the riding ground enclosure or Sakura-no-Baba which is now planted with lots of cherry trees. Then, you go across the earthen bridge to enter the ruins of the Sakura-mon Gate and the third enclosure. However, as of February 2022, the gate is under construction and scheduled to be restored by the spring of 2022, so you will have to use the temporary path.

The riding ground enclosure
The earthen bridge to the Third Enclosure
The Sakura-mon Gate under the restoration
The temporary path

The third enclosure still has a traditional hall, called Hiunkaku, which is not original to the castle, but was built as the house for the former lord, the Matsudaira Clan, in modern times. It is now owned by Takamatsu City and used for ceremonies and events. The enclosure also has a Japanese garden you can enjoy looking around.

The Hiunkaku Hall
The Japanese garden in the Third Enclosure

You can go further from the third enclosure to the second enclosure and the main enclosure with the stone wall base for the Main Tower. The only way to get to the main enclosure is by crossing the restored roofed wooden bridge called saya-bashi.

From the Second Enclosure to the Main Enclosure
The Saya-bashi Bridge
The entrance of the bridge

You can also go on the top of the base and see a good city view, and inside of the base which was recently repaired. In fact, the city is considering restoring the main tower.

The stone wall base for the Main Tower
The inside of the base for the Main Tower
A view of the sea around from the base

Tsukimi Turret beside Sea in old days

I recommend you also visit the northern side of the park, which was the sea in the past. You will see the other remaining three-story turret called Tsukimi-Yagura with the remaining Mizunote-mon Gate and the Watari-Yagura Turret. The Mizunote-mon Gate was open to the sea and is the only remaining such gate. The Tsukimi-Yagura Turret is also very beautiful with many decorations. You can imagine them standing out beside the sea in the past.

Tsukimi-Yagura Turret, Mizunote-mon Gate and Watari-Yagura Turret
This area in front of the turrets and gate was in the sea
The beautiful Tsukimi-Yagura Turret

To be continued in “Takamatsu Castle Part3”
Back to “Takamatsu Castle Part1”