The castle ruins and modern tourist spot could be seen on the mountain.
Features
Going to Top by Cable Car
Today, visitors usually get to the ruins of Hachimanyama Castle by boarding the cable car from the foot of the mountain. The platform of the car at the foot is near the Himure Hachimangu Shrine which was moved there when the castle was built. The Hachimanbori Moats and the old town atmosphere also remain around as a popular tourist spot.
The map around the castle
The platform of the cable carThe Worship Hall of the Himure Hachimangu Shrine (licensed by 663highland via Wikimedia Commons)The Hachimanbori Moats and the old town atmosphere
The cable car will bring you to the platform on the mountain in few minutes. The platform is below the Second Enclosure where the observation platform faces the city area in the southeast. Many people enjoy a good view while you can also see some remaining old stone walls of the enclosure.
A view from the cable carThe observation platform at the Second EnclosureA view from the Second EnclosureThe stone walls around the Second Enclosure
Zuiryuji Temple in Main Enclosure
The Main Enclosure, the center of the castle, is now used as the Zuiryuji Temple which Hidetsugu’s mother, Tomo established. In fact, the temple was moved there from Kyoto in 1961 of the present time, however, it is absolute suitable for this castle. The entrance of the temple consists of a defensive square space surrounded by stone walls, called Masugata. That’s because it was also the original entrance of the enclosure. The temple uses the Imperial chrysanthemum crest because Emperor Go-Yozei helped Tomo first build it and some members of the Imperial family became its chief priest.
The aerial photo around the castle
The Zuiryuji Temple at the Main EnclosureThe doors use the Imperial chrysanthemum crestsThe defensive square space inside the doors
View Spots in Northern and Western Enclosures
You can go to other enclosures by passing the Belt Enclosure as the route around the Main Enclosure. The high stone walls surrounding the Main Enclosure look old, wild but so great like those of Azuchi Castle. Historians are still not sure if these stone walls were completed by Hidetsugu or the Kyogoku Clan following him. A corner of them becomes round vertically, and it is not uncertain if the condition is original or it was from deterioration.
The stone walls around the Main EnclosureThe vertically round corner of stone walls
If you go to the Northern Enclosure which is another good viewing spot, you can see a view of the mountains with the ruins of Azuchi and Kannnonji Castles in the north.
The Northern EnclosureA view from the Northern EnclosureThe ruins of Azuchi and Kannonji Castles
You can also go to the Western Enclosure with a view of Lake Biwa in the west.
The Western EnclosureA view from the Western Enclosure
My recommended Barbican Enclosure
I recommend you go to the Barbikan Enclosure or Demaru because it was recently re-developed. The trees and bushes around the enclosure were cut down for a better view. You can get there by going down along the trail from the Western Enclosure. You will see a panorama view of the city area and you can imagine this enclosure should have been a good lookout.
The Barbican EnclosureA view from the Barbican EnclosureYou can see the Barbican Enclosure from the city area (inside the red mark)
You can also walk around the stone walls of the enclosure close by, which is about 4m high. However, please watch your step as its foundation is on the steep and rough slope.
The stone walls of the Barbican Enclosure and a view form itThe corner of the stone walls (its round shape is rare)The stone walls are illuminated at night
The castle of Hidetsugu Toyotomi, the tragic Kanpaku
Location and History
Twisted Life by his uncle, Ruler Hideyoshi
Hachimanyama Castle was located beside Lake Biwa in Omi Province which is now Shiga Prefecture. The castle was built by Hidetsugu Toyotomi, the tragic Kanpaku ( the chief adviser to the Emperor). He was a nephew of Hideyoshi Toyotomi who was the ruler of Japan in the late 15th Century. His mother was Hideyoshi’s older sister called Tomo. He was twisted around Hideyoshi’s little finger throughout his life, but left this castle and its castle town which is now Omi-Hachiman City.
The location of the castle
Hidetsugu was born in 1568 during the Sengoku Period when his uncle, Hideyoshi worked under a great warlord, Nobunaga Oda. In 1572 when he was 4 years old, he was adopted by Hideyoshi to the Miyabe Clan in Omi Province, which Hideyoshi wanted to gain over to Nobunaga’s side. It was common for warriors at that time to ally with others, but in the case of Hideyoshi, he had to send his nephew because he had no children. After that, Hidetsugu was adopted again to the Miyoshi Clan in Shikoku Island where Nobunaga and Hideyoshi aimed to invade. However, the situation changed after Nobunaga died in the Honnoji Incident in 1582. Hideyoshi intended to be the ruler, so he wanted Hidetsugu to be one of his commanding officer. Hidetsugu fought hard for his uncle in many battles although he failed in one of them called the Battle of Nagakute in 1584. In 1585 when Hideyoshi was appointed Kanpaku as the ruler, Hidetsuku was given a large territory in Omi Province. Hidetsugu built a new castle as his home base with instructions from Hideyoshi, called Hachimanyama Castle.
The portrait of Hidetsugu Toyotomi, owned by Zuisenji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
He develops new Castle, Castle Town, and Waterways
The mountain, which the castle was built, had originally been often called Hachimanyama or Hachiman Mountain, because the Himure-Hachimangu Shrine had been on the top of the mountain. The first thing to do for building the castle was to move the shrine to the foot. The mountain was 294m high and 180m above from the foot. Its slopes were very steep, which was good for protecting the castle. The Main Enclosure was built on the top where it is said the Main Tower and Main Hall were built. The Second, the Northern and the Western Enclosures were also built on the ridges spread from the top. These enclosures were all surrounded by stone walls. The Barbican Enclosure was also built below the Western Enclosure. In addition, the luxury residence for Hidetsugu was built at the foot because the top was not convenient for living. The long and straight Main Route like Azuchi Castle was also built in front of it.
The imaginary drawing of Hachimanyama Castle, from the signboard at the site, adding the red letters in EnglishThe Main Route of Azuchi Castle
Hidetsugu also developed the castle town beside the mountain by moving the merchants in the castle town of the abandoned Azuchi Castle to the new developed area. The city area was built in a grid pattern like modern cities to improve business and living. Hidetsugu built the Hachiman-bori Moat, connected to Lake Biwa, between the castle and town. The moat was basically for defense, but it was also used for water transportation to boost commerce. The town has been prospering even after the castle was abandoned.
The illustration of Hachimanyama Castle and Town, exhibited by Omi Hachiman City Archives Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The present Hachiman-bori Moat
Short Glory before his Harakiri Incident
Hidetsugu moved to a much larger territory and finally became Kanpaku as the successor of Hideyoshi in 1590 . This was because Hideyoshi’s real or adopted male children all died young. Hidetsugu communicated well with many nobles and lords to be the next ruler after Hideyoshi. However, the situation changed again when Hideyoshi had his last son, Hideyori in 1583. In 1585, Hidetsugu was suddenly summoned by Hideyoshi’s officers due to the suspicion of his rebellion against Hideyoshi. He was sent to Mt. Koyasan, without any meeting with Hideyoshi, and He was forced to commit Harakiri. (ritual suicide by disembowelment with a sword.). Hideyoshi also ordered to execute almost all of Hidetsugu’s wives and children as offenders. Many relative nobles and lords were also punished. Hidetsugu’s mother, Tomo who was Hideyoshi’s sister felt deep sorrow, then established the Zuiryuji Temple alone in Kyoto to pray for Hidetsugu and his family.
The picture of Hidetsugu Toyotomi at Mt. Koyasan, attributed to Yoshitoshi Tsukioka (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The present Zuiryuji Temple at Hachimanyama Castle Ruins
However, no evidence for Hidetsugu’s rebellion was found. Some people said the incident happened for that he was called the Killer Kanpaku, which meant he liked killing, but it was also quite uncertain. After all, it seemed that Hidetaugu was a victim of Hideyoshi who finally became a crazy dictator and initiated a conflict between officers and lords. Hideyoshi even ordered to destroy Hachimanyama Castle followed by the Kyogoku Clan after Hidetsugu. The clan had to move to another castle, called Otsu Castle. There is an interesting story about Hikone Castle, whose Main Tower was moved from Otsu Castle. Toyotomi-style roof tiles covered with golden leaf were found at Hikone Castle which the Tokugawa Shogunate built. Some people think it was impossible as because they were against each other. Some historians speculate that the Main Tower or other buildings Hidetsugu built might have been moved or used to build Otsu Castle by Kyogoku Clan and finally brought to Hikone Castle.
The Main Tower of Hikone Castle, which was originally moved from Otsu Castle
この城が、典型的な日本の城スタイルの始祖なのです。
This castle is the origin of typical Japanese castles.
安土城の大手道～The Main Street of Azuchi Castle
立地と歴史～Location and History
高くそびえる天守、高石垣の上には多くの櫓と漆喰の壁、大きな門構え、そして周りには水堀をたたえる・・・これらが我々の持つ日本の城の直感的なイメージですが、これらは安土城から始まっているのです。それぞれのパーツは以前の城にもありましたが、有力な戦国大名、織田信長がそれらを統合し、彼の城として表現したのでした。そして日本の城の歴史に決定的なインパクトを与えました。
A tall standing Tenshu keep, many turrets and plaster walls on high stone walls, large entrance gates, and water moats around… These are our intuitive images of Japanese castles come from Azuchi Castle. Though each part can be found in castles earlier than that, the great warlord Nobunaga Oda integrated and expressed them as his castle. It has definitely had a huge impact on the history of Japanese castles.
織田信長肖像画、狩野宗秀作、長興寺蔵、１６世紀後半～The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
信長は、日本の統一事業を進めていく中で、自らの本拠地を尾張国（現愛知県）から西の方へ最初は岐阜（現岐阜県）、そして安土（現滋賀県）に移していきました。
As Nobunaga increased his work of unifying Japan, he moved his home base from Owari Province (now Aichi Pref.) to the west, at first Gifu (now Gifu Pref.), and Azuchi (now Shiga Pref.).
信長の根拠地移動ルート～Nobunaga’s route for his home base
この地は中山道に沿って、琵琶湖に面しており水上交通に便利でした。安土は大体京都と岐阜の中間点に当たり、信長は緊急時には両方に駆け付けられました。
The site was along the Nakasendo Road and faced Biwa Lake which was useful for water transportation. Azuchi is around the middle point of Kyoto and Gifu, so Nobunaga could rush to both cities in emergency.
城周辺の航空写真～The aerial photo around the castle
江州安土古城図、国立国会図書館蔵、城の周りは湖と堀です～The map of old Azuchi Castle in Omi Province, owned by National Diet Library, Around the castle is the lake and the moat（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedeia Commons）
信長は１５７６年に、部下に対して高さ１９８ｍの安土山に城を築くよう命じました。彼は１５７９年５月から天主に住み始めました。実は、信長は普段から天主に住んでいた最初で最後の人物だと言われています。そこは彼にとって崇高で且つ権威そのものを表す場所だったようで、天主の中には滅多に他人を入れませんでした。信長はまた城下町を作り、人々に自由に商売と往来をさせ、これは「楽市楽座」と言われました。人々は大歓迎でこれを受け入れました。この当時はそれぞれの戦国大名がそれぞれの場所で高い税金をかけていたからです。 Nobunaga ordered his men to construct the castle on Mt. Azuchiyama which is 198m height, in 1576. He started to live in the Tenshu keep on May 1579. In fact, he is said to be the first and last person who usually lived in the Tenshu. It seemed to be spiritual and an authorization for him, so he rarely invited others to the inside of Tenshu. He also created the castle town below the castle and made people free to do business and transportation called “Rakuichi-Rakuza”. People welcomed it because each warlord charged high taxes on both of them in each place at that time.
安土山～Mt. Azuchiyama三重県伊勢市にある安土城の模擬天主～The imitation of Azuchi Castle Tenshu in Ise City, Mie Pref.（licensed by D-one via Wikimedia Commons）
ところが、この城は短命に終わりました。１５８２年、完成からわずか３年後、信長が京都で本能寺で殺されたとき、原因不明の火事で天主が焼け落ちます。その後、織田の一族がしばらくこの城を使いましたが、１５８５年に近くに八幡山城が新しくできたことで廃城となりました。 However, the castle had a short life. In 1582, just after three years from the completion, An unidentified fire burned the Tenshu when Nobunaga was killed at Honnoji Temple in Kyoto. After that, Oda’s relatives used the castle for a while, it was abandoned in 1585, as Hachimanyama Castle was newly built nearby.
安土城図、大阪城天守閣蔵～The illustration of Azuchi Castle, owned by Osaka Castle Museum（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedeia Commons）
特徴～Features
現在、城跡は国の特別史跡に指定されています。この場所は総見寺が所有しています。入り口から広くまっすぐな「大手道」が山の上の方に伸びています。ここは最近発掘され復元されました。また、このような道の作り方は明らかに防御には不利なので、他の山城とは随分異なっています。
Now, the ruins of the castle are designated as a National Special Historic Site. The site belongs to Sokenji Temple. From the entrance, the wide and straight Main Street “Ote-Michi” leads up to the mountain. It was excavated and restored recently. It is also different from other mountain castles, because such a road is clearly a disadvantage for defenders.
城跡の入り口、かつてはこの周辺に水堀がありました～The entrance of the castle ruins, there were water moats around in the past大手道～The Main Street
歴史家の中には、信長はこの道を彼の都の大通りとしていたと推測する人もいますし、単にこの城の権威を示すものだという人もいます。いずれにしろ、天主はこの道から見えたはずですし、周りを信長の家臣の屋敷が取り囲んでいました。 Some historians speculate Nobunaga regarded it as the central street of his capital. Others argue it just showed the authority of the castle. Anyway, the Tenshu should have been seen from the street, with the halls of Nobunaga’s retainers along it.
安土城大手道周辺の想像図～The imaginary drawing of around the Main Street at Azuchi Castle（岐阜城展示室）
道は、山の中腹から曲がりくねり、「七曲り」と呼ばれます。そして城の主要部に向かっていきます。
The street gets zigzagged, called “Nana-Magari”, from the midslope of the mountain towards the main part of the castle.
道の七曲り部分～The zigzaged part of the street
主要部は黒金門から始まりますが、この門は巨石を使い、権威を見せつけています。
The main part starts from “Kurogane” Gate ruins which was made using huge stones for showing authority.
黒金門跡、The ruins of Kurogane Gate
次に来るのは二の丸跡で、信長の廟所があります。ここは元々一族の御殿があったかもしれない所です。 Next comes Ninomaru ruins where Nobunaga’s mausoleum remains, where his inner palace might have originally been.
二の丸にある信長の廟所～The mausoleum of Nobunaga Oda at Ninomaru
本丸は城の中心です。当時は多くの建物がひしめいていました。その一つは特に天皇のための宮殿だったと言われています。貴族の日記に天皇がこの城に行幸する予定があったと書いてあります。信長は天皇をそこに住まわせ、天主から見下ろし、自身の影響下におきたかったとも、そうではなくただの訪問だとも言われています。
Honmaru is the center of the castle. Many buildings were packed at that time. One of them is particularly said to be the palace for the Emperor. A noble’s diary says there was a plan of the Emperor’s visit to the castle. Some speculate Nobunaga tried to make the Emperor live in the palace and be under control ,looking down from Tenshu. Others say it was just a visit.
本丸跡～The ruins of Honmaru
天主は本丸のとなりに立っていました。天主台とその内側に礎石が残っています。 Tenshu stood next to Honmaru. The base remains where you can see cornerstones inside.
天主台の石垣～The stone walls of the Tenshu base天主台内の礎石～The cornerstones inside the Tenshu base天主台からの眺め、かつては琵琶湖が見えたはずです～A view from the base, it should be Biwa Lake in the past
帰りの道は「諸々橋」口と呼ばれていて、信長が設立した総見寺の元の敷地を通り過ぎます。この寺は江戸時代に火災に遭いましたが、三重塔などいつくか建物が残っています。ポルトガルからの宣教師ルイス・フロイスは、信長はこの寺を自身を崇拝させるために建立したと言いました。これもまた謎めいています。 On the return route called “Dodobashi” Route, you will pass the ruins of original Sokenji Temple that Nobunaga founded. The temple suffered a fire in the Edo Period, but several buildings like the three-story pagoda still remain. A missionary from Portugal, Luis Frois said Nobunaga created it to celebrate himself. That is also controversal.
現存している総見寺三重塔～The remaining three-story pagoda of Sokenji Temple（licensed by Haruno Akiha via Wikimedia Commons）
安土城郭資料館では、安土城天主の２０分の１スケールの模型を見ることができます。これは古文書、図面、発掘の成果から製作されました。この模型では、天主は５層の外観で、地階を含めて７階建てです。それぞれの階は違う形と色をしています。５階は赤色の八角形で内側は仏画が描かれ、最上階の６階は金色の四角形で古代中国の聖人が描かれています。 You can see the one-twentieth scale model of Azuchi Castle’s Tenshu keep at Azuchi Castle Museum. It was created based on old documents, drawings and excavation. According to this model, it had a five-layer appearance, and seven floors including the basement. Each floor had a different shape and color. The 5th floor was octagonal of red with Buddhist wall paintings inside, and the top 6th floor was square of gold with paintings of ancient legendary Chinese saints.
安土城天主のミニチュアモデル～The miniature model for Tenshu of Azuchi Castle（安土城郭資料館～Azuchi Castle Museum）
この両方の階の実寸大のレプリカが、信長の館で展示されています。 Both floors have been restored as the full scale replica at the House of Nobunaga.
信長の館にある天主５・６階のレプリカ～The replica of the 5th and 6th floors of Tenshu at the House of Nobunaga（taken by あけび from photoAC）
天主の地階から３階までは吹き抜けになっていて、地面には仏塔が設置してあったようです。これらは、信長の天主がとても象徴的かつ宗教的な存在であったことを示しています。 There was the stairwell inside Tenshu through BF to 3F, where the pagoda seemed to be set on the ground. These suggestions show Nobunaga’s Tenshu was very symbolic and religious.
ミニチュアモデルの吹き抜け部分～The stairwell part of the miniature modelミニチュアモデル内の仏塔～The pagoda in the miniature model
その後～Later Life
城跡の領域は、江戸時代の間ずっと総見寺に所有されていました。火事があった後、寺の建物は現在の大手道周辺に再建されました。そして寺の石垣がこの道を覆って築かれました。時が過ぎるにつれ、人々はその石垣が安土城のものと思うようになります。１９８９年に安土城の調査整備事業が開始され、２０年間続きました。その中で、寺の石垣の下にこのような広く長い通り道が発見され人々を驚かせたのです。総見寺は寺の石垣を撤去し、元の通りを復元することに協力しました。 The domain of the castle ruins was owned by Sokenji Temple all through the Edo Period. After the fire, the temple buildings were rebuilt around what is now Ote-michi street. They made their own stone walls across the street. As time has passed by, people got used to thinking the stone walls might come from Azuchi Castle. The investigation and development project for Azuchi Castle Ruins started in 1989. It lasted for 20 years. People were surprised to see that such a wide, long street was discovered under the stone walls. The temple cooperated to remove their stone walls and restore the original street.
発見された大手道～The discovered Main Street
安土城考古博物館では、この事業の成果を見ることができます。 Azuchi Castle Archaeological Museum shows the achievement of the project.
安土城考古博物館～Azuchi Castle Archaeological Museum（licensed by 663highland via Wikimedia Commons）
私の感想～My Impression
安土城は、私の最も好きな日本の城の一つです。この城は信長の考え方を直接表していると思うからです。信長はときに過酷と言われますが、彼は当時の常識に対して自らの信念を貫いたと思うのです。しかし、彼の思想は歴史家の議論を経てもなお謎のままです。ですので、ここに来て、何かを感じ、自分で考えてみることが大事です。 Azuchi Castle is one of my most favorite castles in Japan, because the castle must directly show Nobunaga’s way of thinking. While Nobunaga is sometimes said to be cruel, I think he kept his faith against the common sense of that time. However, his basic idea is still mysterious after historians’ discussions. So it is important to come there , feel something, and think by yourself.
天主ミニチュアモデルの上部～The top of the Tenshu miniature model（安土城郭資料館～Azuchi Castle Museum）
ここに行くには～How to get There
車で行く場合は、名神自動車道の八日市ＩＣか竜王ＩＣから約３０分かかります。先程ご紹介した城跡と博物館に駐車場があります。 電車の場合は、レンタル自転車を使うことをお勧めします。城跡と博物館が点在しているからです。ＪＲ安土駅の前に２件のレンタル店があります。そこに荷物を預けることもできます。 東京から安土駅まで：東海道新幹線で米原駅まで行き、ＪＲ琵琶湖線に乗り換えてください。 大阪から安土駅まで：大阪か新大阪駅からＪＲ京都線に乗ってください。 If you want to go there by car, it takes about 30 minutes from the Yokaichi IC or the Ryuo IC on Meishin Expressway. The ruins and the museums mentioned above offer a parking lot. When using train, I recommend you to use a rental bicycle, because the ruins and the museums are spread out. There are two rental bicycle shops in front of JR Azuchi Station. You can also leave your baggage there. From Tokyo to Azuchi st.: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen superexpress to Maibara station, and transfer for JR Biwako line. From Osaka to Azuchi st.: Take the train on JR Kyoto line from Osaka or Shin-Osaka station.
