23.Odawara Castle Part1

Odawara was supposed to be the capital of five generations of the Hojo Clan. The city is now supposed to be a popular tourist spot near Hakone hot spring. Odawara Castle first started as a small one in a new post town. The castle eventually grew under the rules of the Hojo Clan to one of the greatest castles during the Sengoku Period. It was finally turned into an important castle at the western edge of the Kanto Region during the Edo Period. The castle was located at the same place through all its life while it changed a lot, which is a very rare case. This article will focus on the history of the castle until the Sengoku Period.

Odawara was supposed to be the main castle for the five generations of the Hojo Clan. The city is now supposed to be a popular tourist spot near Hakone hot spring. Odawara Castle first started as a small one in a new transportation hub. The castle eventually grew under the rules of the Hojo Clan to one of the greatest castles during the Sengoku Period. It was finally turned into an important castle at the western edge of the Kanto Region during the Edo Period. The castle was located at the same place through all its life while it changed a lot, which is a very rare case. This article will focus on the history of the castle until the demise of The Hojo Clan during the Sengoku Period.

The current Odawara Castle, this main tower was rebuilt according to that during the Edo Period

Location and History (until Sengoku Period)

Beginning of the Castle and the Appearance of Sozui Ise

In the ancient time, passengers, who went to the Kanto Region from western Japan, didn’t often use the Hakone Route, but used the Ashigara Route instead. However, they eventually used the Hakone Route when some shrines near the route became more popular. Odawara was first formed as a transportation hub for the passengers not later than the 14th Century. On the other hand, Odawara Castle was thought to be built in the middle of the 15th Century. The Omori Clan, the first lord of the castle, built it in order to collect taxes from the passengers. For this reason, the castle was still small during its early stage.

The location of the castle

As for the location of the castle, it was said that it was first situated at Hachimanyama old enclosure, which is the north of the current Odawara Castle, and further away from the transportation hub. Considering the purpose of the castle, it may have been at the same place as the current one, or at Tenjinyama Hill, closer to the town.

The Hachimanyama old enclosure
The current Tenjinyama Hill

In the beginning of the Sengoku Period, a man named Sozui Ise, became one of the biggest heroes at that time, and later would become a legend. According to the legend, he started only as a Ronin, but eventually became a great warlord, through his own excellent talent. This has been recognized as a big success story of “Gekokujo” which means “giant killer”. However, in recent studies, it was discovered that he was originally a shogunal military guard called Moritoki Ise. He went to Sunpu, which is the current Shizuoka City, to help his sister who was in a dispute about the succession. She was the wife of the Imagawa Clan’s previous lord and wanted her son to be the successor but had to compete with another candidate.

A copy of the portrait of Sozui Ise, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Sozui (Moritoki) succeeded in the son’s victory. He got Kokokuji Castle as an award of his contribution, which was the beginning of his real success story. The legend also says that Sozui drove the Omori Clan, which was the lord family of Odawara Castle, out from the castle, by tactics known as “Kagyu-no-kei”. Kagyu-no-kei refers to attacking enemies’ bases by using cows with lit torches on their horns. It was said that the statics had been done since the start of ancient China. However, the recent studies argue that it’s not that simple. According to a historical record, Sozui’s brother and the Omori Clan were actually on the same side at Odawara Castle and were defeated by the Uesugi Clan. Historians speculate that Sozui got Odawara Castle when they became enemies, or the castle was damaged because of a huge earthquake around 1500. Sozui was probably not only a hero, but also a practical man and a good negotiator. The castle was still a branch castle even after Sozui got it.

The ruins of Kokokuji Castle
The statue of Sozui at Odawara Station, attacking by Kagyu-no-kei

Improvement of the Castle by Ujitsuna and Ujiyasu Hojo

Sozui’s successor was his son, Ujitsuna Hojo, who was the second generation of the Hojo Clan. However, Ujitsuna was the person who changed his family name from Ise to Hojo. Therefore, Sozui Ise’s well-known alternate name Soun Hojo did not exist while he was alive. Soun was his Dharma name (this is the name given after the person dies). The reason for the change of the family name would be to go against the authority of the Uesugi Clan, the Hojo’s enemy. The Uesugi Clan looked down on the Hojo Clan because they were outlaws from another province. The Hojo Clan needed to improve their own authority in order to attract the local lords by using their new family name. “Hojo” had been the family name of the vice-Shoguns during the Kamakura Shogunate. Ujitsuna also moved his clan’s home to Odawara Castle.

The portrait of Ujitsuna Hojo, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ujitsuna’s son, Ujiyasu Hojo was the third generation of the clan. He managed to increase the clan’s territories in the southern Kanto Region, particularly after the victory of the battle of Kawagoe Castle against the Uesugi Clan in 1546. Odawara Castle and its town were becoming the center of the region. The original small transportation hub was turned into the castle town, being as large as that during the Edo Period. The Odawara Water Supply System was installed in the castle and the town. It is said to be one of the earliest water supply systems in Japan. As for the castle itself, the main portion of the castle was built, such as the current main and second enclosures. A priest, who visited Odawara Castle in 1551, recorded that there was a large pond surrounding the castle in three different directions. Part of the pond remains as the moat of the current second enclosure.

A copy of the portrait of Ujiyasu Hojo, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The current Odawara Water Supply System
The moat of the current second enclosure

The first big crisis happened to Odawara Castle in 1561. Kenshin Uesugi invaded the Kanto Region from his home of Echigo Province, which is currently Nigata Prefecture, in order to revive his clan. Kenshin sieged Odawara Castle with his allies and over 100 thousand soldiers the following February (according to the luna calendar). However, the attackers withdrew soon as they did not prepare for a long siege. Ujiyasu Hojo, who was the lord of the clan, avoided fighting against Kenshin but waited patiently for the withdrawal. After Kenshin went back to his home, Ujiyasu got the territories and the retainers in the region back to the same side.

The portrait of Kenshin Uesugi, owned by the Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The second crisis occurred in October 1569 (according to the luna calendar). Shingen Takeda from Kai Province, which is currently Yamanashi Prefecture, invaded the Hojo’s territories and reached Odawara Castle on the 1st of October. Shingen first attacked the main gate, called Hasuike-mon (which means lotus-pond gate), and set the castle town on fire. Shingen’s troops also torched the hall of Ujimasa Hojo, Ujiyasu’s successor. Shingen stayed at Odawara for only five days and returned to his home. However, these two crises had a big impact on the Hojo Clan, especially on Ujimasa. When he followed his father’s position, he started to fortify Odawara Castle more and more. He probably thought that if he could build a castle that could withstand a long siege, no enemies would ever destroy it.

The portrait of Shingen Takeda, owned by Jimyo-in, in the 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Ujimasa Hojo, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Goyomai Enclosure, where Ujimasa’s hall was built

Completion of the Castle by Ujimasa and Ujinao Hojo

The Hojo Clan reached its peak in the period of Ujimasa and his successor, Ujinao. This was because Kenshin died in 1578 and the power of the Takeda Clan decreased. The Hojo ruled most of the Kanto Region and built the network of their branch castles to maintain their government. Odawara Castle became the center of it. Ujimasa also fortified the castle. For example, the third enclosure was built on a plain land around the second enclosure. After that, the outer third enclosure was also built on a hill behind the main portion of the castle. They were constructed to protect the castle from potential enemies attacking it from the front and from the back. Furthermore, a large ditch was built to separate the highest hill around the castle, called Komine-Okane-no-dai, next to the outer third enclosure. All of them were made using soil. It was dug to create very steep moats and was mounded to make high earthen walls. The soil around the area came from volcanic ash, which is called Kanto loam layer. It’s naturally slimy, which made enemies slipped when they walk on the surface. The bottoms of the moats were also partitioned forming many square partitions, called Shoji-bori (which means sliding paper door-moat) and Une-bori (which means hilling-moat). If enemies fell to the bottom, they would be trapped and would never be able to escape from it.

The portrait of Ujinao Hojo, owned by Hounji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The outer third enclosure
The large ditch at Komine-Okane-no-dai Hill
The Shoji-bori system in Yamanaka Castle

The development of the castle was related to the situation of the whole country and the diplomatic relations with other warlords. When Nobunaga Oda defeated the Takeda Clan in 1582, the Hojo was forced to be subordinate to Nobunaga. However, Nobunaga was killed during the Honnoji Incident in the same year. The Hojo, Tokugawa, Uesugi Clans battled each other in order to get the former territory of the Takeda Clan. A retainer of the Takeda Clan, the Sanada Clan gained power in order to be an independent lord by interrupting them. As time passed, Hideyoshi Toyotomi became the next ruler, ordering all the lords to stop fighting for themselves. Ujimasa ignored this new movement while other lords followed Hideyoshi by 1587. Ujimasa started a negotiation to serve the Hideyoshi side as well as the following year. One of the problems for the negotiation was about the Numata territory. There has been a dispute as to who was the true owner of the territory, between The Hojo Clan and Sanda Clan. Ujimasa asked Hideyoshi to resolve it. Hideyoshi’s decision was to give two thirds of the territory to the Hojo Clan and the other third to the Sanada Clan.

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Masayuki Sanada, privately owned (licensed under Public Domain, via Wikimedia Commons)
The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

On the other hand, Ujimasa continued to fortify Odawara Castle in case the negotiations broke down. The highlight of it was to surround the entire area of Odawara including the castle, the town and the hills behind them. This was done by building moats and earthen walls, whose perimeter was about 9km long. This structure is generally called So-gamae (which means outermost enclosure). Ujimasa probably thought that enemies would never enter Odawara, because of this long perimeter, called So-gamae structure.

The red line shows the estimated line of So-gamae structure

The imaginary drawing of the So-gamae structure, from the signboard at the site

In October of 1589 (according to the luna calendar), an incident happened at the Numata territory. The Sanada Clan argued to Hideyoshi that the Hojo Clan forcibly got Nagurumi Castle on the Sanada’s side. This angered Hideyoshi and he finally decided to destroy the Hojo Clan completely. However, there are several questionable points about the incident. Some historians point out that It might have come from a deception of Hideyoshi and the Sanada Clan. Anyway, the battle between them may have been necessary. Hideyoshi wanted more territories to give to his retainers while Ujimasa didn’t want to surrender to Hideyoshi so easily. The So-gamae structure was eventually completed after the two-year constructions before the battle would happen.

The ruins of Nagurumi Castle

Battle of Odawara

In March of 1590 (according to the luna calendar), about 220,000 of soldiers, led by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, rushed into the Hojo’s territories. The number of the Hojo’s defenders was said to be about 80,000. About 50,000 of them were in Odawara Castle. The Hojo Clan probably expected that their enemies would be weakened by the network of the Hojo’s branch castles before they reached Odawara Castle. If they sieged the castle in poor conditions, the Hojo Clan could make peace with them in better conditions. However, most of the Hojo’s soldiers were drafted farmers, nor were they experienced, nor were they trained, and nor were they motivated. The battles occurred on the 28th of March at Matsuida Castle in Kozuke Province (which is currently Gunma Prefecture), and on the 29th at Yamanaka and Nirayama Castles near Odawara. Surprisingly, Yamanaka Castle, which had strong defensive systems like Shoji-bori, was captured in less than one day by the overwhelmingly powerful military force of the Toyotomi side. After that, the castles’ network of the Hojo side eventually collapsed. As a result, only 5 out of tens of the branch castles survived at the end of May. That was the first miscalculation for the Hojo Clan.

The network system of the Hojo’s castles, from the signboard at the site

The Toyotomi’s troops reached Odawara Castle as early as in the beginning of April, surrounding the castle with about 180,000 soldiers. Hideyoshi launched the construction of his new stronghold, which would be called Ishigakiyama Castle, within the month. However, even with huge troops, they were not able to enter the castle, because they were blocked by the So-gamae structure. The structure was 30m wide at max and over 10m deep, with its slope at over 50 degrees. On the other hand, the Hojo side also miscalculated the features of the Toyotomi’s troops. Many of them were professionals and were equipped with enough supply systems. That meant they could survive in their battlefield for a very long time. They reached a much higher level in the combat than those of the Uesugi and Takeda Clans earlier on. As a result, the attackers and the defenders faced each other across the So-gamae structure in April and May.

The war map of Odawara Castle, from the signboard at the site

On the 5th of June, Masamune Date, who was the greatest warlord of the Tohoku Region, arrived at Odawara to serve Hideyoshi. That made the Hojo Clan know that no supporters would help them. The negotiation between the Toyotomi and Hojo sides started behind the scenes. Ujimasa’s successor, Ujinao Hojo was in charge of it. In Japanese, there is a figurative expression called “Odawara Hyojo” which means an inconclusive long conference. People generally think the Hojo didn’t know what to do during the siege. The fact might have been different from it. As time passed, four of the five surviving branch castles were captured in June. Only Oshi Castle was bearing being sieged by the Toyotomi troops like Odawara Castle. Ishigakiyama Castle, which had great stone walls, was completed on the 26th of June as Hideyoshi’s stronghold. Its appearance may have threatened the defenders of Odawara Castle, just a few kilometers away from it.

The portrait of Masamune Date owned by Sendai City Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Ishigakiyama Caslte

Ujinao finally surrendered to Hideyoshi on the 5th of July. It was said that the negotiation may have included a few territories reserved for the Hojo Clan. However, the decision of Hideyoshi, who completed his unification of Japan, was too strict to allow it. The four leaders of the Hojo side, including Ujimasa, were forced to do Harakiri. Even Ujinao, who made peace with Hideyoshi, was eventually expelled to Koyasan Temple. The Hojo Clan lost everything they had had. Some say that the decision had been planned from the beginning. The territorial allocation after the Battle of Odawara was as followed. Ieyasu Tokugawa moved from around the current Shizuoka Prefecture to the Kanto Region the Hojo Clan had had. Nobukatsu Oda, who was Nobunaga’s son but followed Hideyoshi, was also fired by Hideyoshi due to his rejection to move to Ieaysu’s previous territory. Hideyoshi gave the large vacant territories to his successor, Hidetsugu and his retainers. The satisfied retainers would monitor the actions of Ieyasu who was a potential enemy for Hideyoshi, killing two birds with one stone. In addition, the Sanada Clan got all of the Numata territory after the battle. Were they all coincidental?

The grave of Ujimasa Hojo, near Odawara Station

The Hojo Clan declined but Odawara Castle with the So-gamae structure was very effective against the attackers. For example, it was recorded that Kazuuji Nakamura, who owned Sunpu Castle, built So-gamae structure for his castle, too. In fact, Hideyoshi Toyotomi also built very long earthen walls to surround Kyoto, called O-doi, whose perimeter was about 23 km long. It was recently discovered that the walls had the Shoji-bori system. Hideyoshi also improved his home, Osaka Castle by building So-gamae structure from 1594. Some other lords, who joined the Battle of Odawara, built their own So-gamae as well, probably influenced by Odawara Castle.

The current Sunpu Castle
The restored stone walls of Osaka Castle, used in its So-gamae structure

To be continued in “Odawara Castle Part2”

145.Kokokuji Castle Part3

A good place to visit in Numazu City

Later History

After Kokokuji Castle was abandoned, the area was turned into farm. In 1857, people founded the Homi Shrine at the ruins for prosperity after a large earthquake and famine. Numazu City has been investigating and excavating the ruins since 1982. The ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 1995. The city is thinking about developing the ruins as a historical park with restored water moats.

Homi Shrine
The dry moat
The development plan of Numazu City on the signboard at the site

My Impression

I thought that Kokokuji Castle was just the castle for Soun Hojo to make his first career. However, the castle had the history of over 100 years after him. That was because the castle was at a very important area and had a good location. I think that the ruins of Kokokuji Castle are a good place to visit in Numazu City. If the weather is fine, you can also see the top of Mt. Fuji from the ruins.

The remaining stone walls
The Main Enclosure surrounded by the earthen walls
You can also see the top of Mt. Fuji

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car:
It is about 20 minutes away from Numazu IC on Tomei Expressway.
There is a parking lot in the ruins.
By public transportation, it takes about 30 minutes on foot from Hara Station. Or take the Fujikyu City Bus bound for Higashi-Hiranuma or Fuji-eki from Numazu Station, and get off at the Higashi-Nekoya Bus Stop.
To get Hara Station or Numazu Station from Tokyo: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen Super Express, and transfer to the Tokaido Line at Mishima Station.

Links and References

Kokokuji Castle Ruins (Numazu City Official Web Site)

That’s all.
Back to “Kokokuji Castle Part1”
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145.Kokokuji Castle Part2

The earthen walls and the dry moats are outstanding.

Features

Going to Main Enclosure from Third Enclosure

Now, the marshland around Kokokuji Castle has been turned into the city area. Only the ruins of the castle remain. The modern Nekata Road goes through the ruins. If you visit the ruins by car, you can park at a parking lot in the Third Enclosure, the lowest one out of the three main enclosures. You can walk up from the parking lot to the top Main Enclosure along a gentle slope. The middle tier is the Second Enclosure which looks flat and empty, but it had a round-shaped moat in the past.

The aerial photo around the castle

The entrance of the castle ruins
The Third Enclosure with a parking lot
The Second Enclosure which had a moat

Main Enclosure and its Earthen Walls

The Main Enclosure is still surrounded by large high horseshoe-shaped earthen walls. It’s a fine sight. Inside of the enclosure, there are the monuments of Soun Hojo and Yasukage Amano, and the Homi Shrine which was founded in the Edo Period. The earthen walls on the back of the enclosure are 6m high, and you can walk up to the top by the steps. You can also see the stone walls partly built under the top. There are also foundation stones on the top which are considered the ruins of the base for the Main Tower, but it is thought that a kind of turret was there. You can see a view of the town area with Izu Pninsula on the south from the top.

The earthen walls surrounded by the horseshoe-shaped earthen walls
The monuments of Soun Hojo and Yasukage Amano
The Homi Shrine
The stone walls under the top
The stone foundation for “the base for the Main Tower” on the top
A view from the top

The Dry Moat of Main Enclosure and Northern Part

The large deep dry moat also remains behind the Main Enclosure. You can walk down from the top to the bottom of the moat by the steps as well. It is 18m deep where you can look up the top. You may wonder about the several earthen holes in the walls which were built as air-raid shelters during World War II. The edge of the moat leads to the side of the ruin of the castle which was part of the marshland in the past.

The dry moat behind the Main Enclosure
The air-raid shelters built during World War II
The western side of the ruins

There is also the North Enclosure over the dry moat on the north. Another round-shaped moat was over there, and it was turned into the railway track of Tokaido Shinkansen Super Express. Historians speculate that the set of the round-shaped moats were built by the Takeda Clan or the Tokugawa Clan who used to build similar systems in other castles.

The Main Enclosure seen from the North Enclosure
The railway track of Tokaido Shinkansen Super Express which was a moat

To be continued in “Kokokuji Castle Part3”
Back to “Kokokuji Castle Part1”