176.Ichinomiya Castle Part1

The largest mountain castle in Awa Province

Location and History

Ichinomiya Clan built it in Period of Northern and Southern Courts

Ichinomiya Caste was the largest mountain castle in Awa Province (what is now Tokushima Prefecture) on Shikoku Island. It is said that The Ichinomiya Clan first built the castle in the 14th Century during the Period of the Northern and Southern Courts. Many battles happened across the county, so warriors started to build mountain castles to protect themselves. After the governance of Awa Province got stable, The Ichinomiya Clan seemed to live in a hall at the foot of the mountain and used the castle in an emergency like other clans used to do.

MarkerMarkerMarker
Ichinomiya Castle
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
The location of the castle

Motochika Chosogabe captured it in Sengoku Period

In the late 16th Century during the Sengoku Period, many battles happened again in Awa Province. Narisuke Ichinomiya, the lord of the Ichinomiya Clan, managed to survive under the Miyoshi Clan, the governor of the province, and partly thanks to Ichinomiya Castle. After that, he changed his mind to support Motochuka Chosogabe. Motochuka who was from Tosa Province in the south, invaded Awa Province in 1582. However, Narisuke was killed by Motochika probably because Motochika doubted Narisuke’s change of mind. Ichhoinomiya Castle was captured by Motochika.

The portrait of Motochika Chosogabe, owned by Hada Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ichinomiya Castle was not only a large mountain castle but also Akui-gawa River flowed in front of the gate as a natural hazard. It also had a fountain and warehouses inside, so it could be besieged for a long time. It was also near the center of the province. For a warlord who aimed to govern Awa Province by power, it was necessary to get such a strong and good-located castle as soon as possible. Motochika sent one of his senior vassals, Tadazumi Tani, to Ichinomiya Castle to maintain it.

The aerial view of Ichinomiya Castle Ruins (from the location map of the park at the site)

Castle once became Capital of Awa Province

In 1585, the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi sent over 100,000 soldiers to Shikoku Island to capture it. Ichinomiya Castle with about 10,000 defenders was besieged by about 40,000 attackers. The siege lasted for nearly one month and the castle was open as Motochika surrendered to Hideyoshi. Hideyoshi also sent one of his retainers, Iemasa Hachisuka as the lord of Awa Province. Iemasa chose Ichinomiya Castle as his home base, that meant the castle finally became the capital of the province. He built stone walls in the Main Enclosure on the top of the mountain though the castle had been all made of soil. He also built his Main Hall in the Main Enclosure and a building with a veranda in another enclosure, which might have been used for sightseeing.

The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The statue of Iemasa Hachisuka at the ruins of Tokushima Castle
The stone walls at the Main Enclosure of Ichinomiya Castle

However, Iemasa moved his home base from Ichinomiya Castle to new Tokushima Castle facing the sea the next year in 1586. It is said this was due to Hideyoshi’s instruction to build the network of sea transportation. The situation rapidly changed after Hideyoshi’s unification of Japan. The peak of Ichinomiya Castle lasted for just one year. After that, the castle was considered one of the branch castles called the Awa Nine Castles while the governance of Awa Province was not stable. The castle was finally abandoned soon after the Law of One Castle per Province by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1615.

To be continued in “Ichinomiya Castle Part2”

55.千早城~Chihaya Castle

典型的な日本の山城の原点
The origin of typical Japanese mountain castles

立地と歴史~Location and History

楠木正成の活躍~Activities of Masashige Kusunoki

楠木正成は14世紀に河内国(現在の大阪府東部)を根拠地とした有力武将でした。彼は最初は、中世に武士のための政権を担った鎌倉幕府に仕えていました。しかし、1331年に後醍醐天皇が幕府に反抗したとき、正成は天皇を助け、赤阪城で幕府と戦いました。ところが、この城は急ごしらえで、敵と戦うには不十分であったこともあり、正成は敗走せざるを得ず、そして姿をくらましました。天皇は幕府に捕らえられ、日本海の隠岐の島に配流されました。
Masashige Kusunoki was a great general based in Kawachi Province (what is now the eastern part of Osaka Prefecture) in the 14th century. He first worked under the Kamakura Shogunate, a government body for warriors in the middle ages, but when Emperor Godaigo was against the Shogunate in 1331, he supported the Emperor fighting with the Shogunate in Akasaka Castle. However, the castle was built in a hurry and wasn’t very strong enough to protect against enemies, so Masashige had to run away and disappear. The Emperor was caught by the Shogunate and brought to Okinoshima Island in Japan Sea.

楠木正成肖像画、狩野山楽筆、楠枇庵観音寺蔵~The portrait of Masashige Kusunoki, attributed to Sanraku Kano, owned by Nanpian Kannonji Temple(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
後醍醐天皇肖像画、清浄光寺蔵~The portrait of Emperor Godaigo, owned by Shojokoji Temple(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

1333年、正成は雪辱を期し、上赤阪、下赤阪、そして千早といった城のネットワーク作りを開始しました。千早城は、その内で詰めの城の役割でした。この城は、河内と大和国(現在の奈良県)を結ぶ千早街道沿いにあり、日本の山岳修業の流派である修験道の場として知られた金剛山へ向かう途上にありました。そしてこの城は、全面を谷に囲まれた峰の上に位置していました。
In 1333, Masashige wanted to take revenge, so he started making his new network of castles: Kami-Akasaka, Shimo-Akasaka, and Chihaya. Chihaya Castle was the last one of the network. It was located alongside Chihaya Road connecting Kawachi and Yamato (now Nara Prefecture) Provinces, and
on the way to Mt. Kongosan which was known for the training of Shugen-do, i.e., Japanese mountain asceticism. The castle was also on one peak, surrounded by valleys on all sides.

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千早城Chihaya Castle
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors
城の位置~The location of the castle

千早城の模型、千早赤阪村郷土資料館蔵~The miniature model of Chihaya Castle, owned by Chihaya-Akasaka Folk Museum(licensed by Wikiwikiyarou via Wikimedia Commons)

千早城の戦い~Siege of Chihaya

正成と僅か千名の兵士からなる部隊は、千早城に籠城し、幕府の大軍から何回も攻められました。 これは千早城の戦いと呼ばれ、日本で最初の本格的な山城での戦いでした。幕府軍の武士たちはこのような戦いでどう攻撃してよいかわからず、陣地や攻めどころといった戦略や計画もなく、しゃにむに城に突進していきました。正成とその部下たちは、敵と戦うのに大抵は盾や矢を使ったのですが、更には岩、丸太、油と火、煮えた汚物までも使って幕府軍を撃退したのでした。また、夜襲をかけて、敵を更に疲弊させました。この籠城戦は3ヶ月間続きます。
Masashige, with his small army of one thousand soldiers, was besieged in Chihaya Castle, by the massive Shogunate troops several times. It is called Siege of Chihaya, and it is the first big battle to occur in a mountain castle in Japan. The shogunate warriors didn’t know how to attack in such a battle, so they straightaway charged the castle without any strategies or planning, with regards to position or location of attack. Masashige and his army mostly used shields and arrows in order to fight the enemies. In addition, they also used rocks, logs, oil and fire, and even boiled filth to repel the Shogunate. They also delivered night attacks to further tire the enemies. The siege lasted for three months.

千早城合戦図、歌川芳員筆、江戸時代、湊川神社蔵~The illustration of Siege of Chihaya, attributed to Yoshikazu Utagawa, in the Edo Period, owned by Minatogawa Shraine(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

籠城戦の間、後醍醐天皇は島を脱出し、幕府の配下を含む全ての武士たちに協力を求めました。そして足利尊氏や新田義貞といった幕府の有力な部将たちが天皇方についたのです。千早城を攻撃していた軍勢はそれを聞き、撤退していきました。ついに正成は勝利し、幕府は千早城の籠城戦が終わってからわずか12日後に滅びました。
During the siege, Emperor Godaigo escaped from the island, and requested all the warriors, even those that backed Shogunate, to support him. Some influential retainer of the Shogunate, such as Takauji Ashikaga and Yoshisada Nitta, took sides with the Emperor. The troops attacking Chihaya heard about it and withdrew. Finally, Masashige won and the Shogunate was destroyed in just 12 days after the Siege of Chihaya ended.

足利尊氏肖像画、浄土寺蔵~The portrait of Takauji Ashikaga, owned by Jodo-ji Temple(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

正成と城の最期~End of Masashige and Castle

後醍醐天皇は建武の新政を始めますが、朝廷はすぐに後醍醐の南朝と、尊氏が別の天皇を立てて設立した北朝に分裂します。正成は最後まで後醍醐に仕えました。しかし、残念なことに1336年の摂津国(現在の兵庫県の一部)での湊川の戦いで尊氏に敗れてしまいます。千早城は正成の子孫により継承されますが、ついには1392年の北朝方の攻撃により落城しました。
Emperor Godaigo started Kenmu Restoration, but the kingdom was soon divided into his Southern Court and the Northern Court that Takauji established with another Emperor. Masashige followed Godaigo till the end, but was unfortunately defeated by Takauji in the Battle of Minatogawa, 1336 in Settsu Province (now part of Hyogo Prefecture). Chihaya Castle was kept by Masashige’s descendants, but eventually fell due to the attack of the Northern Court in 1392.

河内千破城図、湊川神社蔵~The illustration of Chihaya Castle, owned by Minatogawa Shrine(licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

特徴~Features

急坂を登る~Climbing Steep Slope

現在、千早城跡への入口は、いまだに金剛山への玄関口になっています。ここから急坂に沿った500段以上の石段を登っていかねばなりません。石段は元はなかったのですが、神社が建設されたときに一緒に作られました。山道は所々曲がりくねっていて、過去は敵を防げるようになっていました。
Now, the entrance to the ruins of Chihaya Castle is still the gateway for Mt. Kongosan. You have to climb up over 500 steps of stones along the steep slope. The steps were not there originally, instead they were developed when a shrine was constructed . The trail is partly zigzagged to prevent enemies in the past.

千早城跡入口~The entrance of Chihaya Castle Ruins
石段の急坂~The steep stone steps
曲がりくねっている山道~The zigzagged trail

城の中心部は神社に~Center of Castle becomes Shrine

20分程かけて150mの高さを登っていくと、この城では最も広い郭である第四郭にたどり着きます。そこから更に山の鞍部を通る通路を通って第三郭に至ります。この郭には神社の社務所や、城の記念碑があります。
After about 20 minutes of 150m high climbing, you will reach the Fourth Enclosure which is the roomiest space in the castle. You can go further the route on a saddle of the mountain to the Third Enclosure. The enclosure has the shrine office and the monument of the castle.

第四郭~The Fourth Enclosure
山の鞍部~The saddle part of the mountain
第三郭~The Third Enclosure
城の記念碑~The monument of the castle

第三郭の後は第二郭となり、正成を祀る千早神社が鎮座しています。第一郭がまた第二郭の背後にありますが、聖地として一般の立ち入りは禁止されています。第一郭にはかつては見張り台のような建物があったと考えられています。
Chihaya Shrine that worships Masashige is on the Second Enclosure in at the back of the Third Enclosure. The First Enclosure is also at the back of the Second Enclosure, but it is closed to visitors of the shrine as it is considered the sanctuary. It is thought that a building, like a watchtower, stood on the First Enclosure in the past.

千早神社~Chihaya Shrine
第一郭は立ち入り禁止~The First Enclosure is closed

残っているものはあるか?~Does something original remain?

神社からは脇道が分かれ出ています。その道から見下ろすと、何か腰曲輪のようなものがあります。これらは元からあったものなのでしょうか。第三郭と第四郭の間の鞍部に戻ると、神社への脇参道を使って、山から下りることができます。谷底の一つは林道になっていて、そこから見ると坂道がとても急になっていて、この城がいかに自然の地形をうまく活用しているかがわかります。
The side tail goes from the shrine. From the trail, you can look down at something like bounded enclosures. I wonder if they are original or not. If you go back to the saddle between the Third and Fourth Enclosures, you can go down from the mountain using the side pathway to the shrine. One of the valleys’ bottoms has become a forest road. When you look up at the mountain from the road, you can see how steep the slope is, and how well the castle used natural terrain.

腰曲輪のように見えます~They can look like bounded enclosures
自然の断崖~The natural cliff

その後~Later History

千早城は長い間放置されてきました。ところが、明治維新後、状況は劇的に変化しました。北朝の子孫である明治天皇がどういうわけか南朝が正統と決めたのです。正成は、歴史家の間では優れた戦略家として知られてきましたが、突然日本史上最も有名な人物に祭り上げられてしまったのです。第二次世界大戦まで、彼の戦略とイデオロギーは全ての国民を忠良な臣民として教育するために利用されたのです。その結果、1879年に千早神社が城跡の上に建設されました。
Chihaya Castle had been abandoned for a long time. However, after the Meiji Restoration, the situation dramatically changed. Emperor Meiji who was a descendant of the Northern Court decided that the Southern Court was orthodox for some reasons. Masashige, who had been recognized as a great strategist only popular among historians, suddenly transformed into the most famous historical figure. His strategies and ideologies were used to educate all the nations in Japan, which was to be loyal subjects, until World War ll. As a result, Chihaya Shrine was built on the castle ruins in 1879.

皇居外苑にある楠木正成の銅像~The statue of Masashige Kusunoki at Outer Gardens of the Imperial Palace(licensed by David Moore via Wikimedia Commons)

現在でさえ、多くの年配の日本人は正成は単に忠臣だと思っています。一方で、若者の間では彼の名前さえ知らない人もいます。最近では歴史家たちは彼個人について一部研究が進んでいますが、いまだに謎のままです。この地は1934年から国の史跡に指定されています。
Even now, many old people in Japan think Masashige is just a loyal retainer. On the other hand, some young people even don’t know his name. Historians are recently studying about him as some parts of his personality still remain a mystery. The site has been designated as a National Historic Site since 1934.

私の感想~My Impression

私は千早城は日本の典型的な山城の先駆けだと思うのです。なぜなら敵から守るために、自然の障壁を最大限活用していたからです。その後の武士たちはこの城とここでの戦いから多くを学んだに違いありません。神社がよく整備され、正成の名が不朽なものとして残るのはよいことですが、せめて第一郭に立ち入らせてもらえないでしょうか。自治体の方にも城跡を史跡として整備し、もっと本当の正成を人々に知ってもらうようにすることを望みます。
I think that Chihaya Castle is the forerunner of typical mountain castles in Japan, because it used natural hazard at maximum to protect from enemies. Later warriors must have learned a lot from the castle and the battle on it. I am pleased to see that the shrine are is well maintained and Masashige’s name is kept intact .I hope that the shrine will allow visitors to enter the First Enclosure, and that the local government will preserve the ruins really like a historic site to let so that people know more about real Masashige more.

第一郭を見上げる~Looking up the First Enclosure

ここに行くには~How to get There

車の場合、阪和自動車道美原南ICから約30分かかります。城跡の入口周辺にいくつか駐車場があります。
バスの場合、近鉄長野線富田林駅から、金剛バス千早線の千早ロープウェイ前または金剛登山口行きに乗るか、
南海高野線か近鉄長野線の河内長野駅から、南海バス窪田線の金剛山ロープウェイ前行きに乗ってください。
どちらのケースでも、金剛登山口バス停で降りてください。
By car, it takes about 30 minutes away from the Mihara-Mnami IC on Hanwa Expressway. There are several parking lots around the entrance of the castle ruins.
By bus, you can take the Kongo Bus on Chihaya Line bound for Chihaya-Ropeway-Mae or Kongo-Tozanguchi from Tondabayashi Station on Kintetsu Nagano Line, or take the Nankai Bus on Kobuka Line bound for Kongosan-Ropeway-Mae from Kawachi-Nagano Station on Nankai Koya Line or Kintetsu Nagano Line. Get off at the Kongo-Tozanguchi bus stop in both cases.

リンク、参考情報~Links and References

千早城 千早神社、千早赤阪村観光協会(Chihaya-Akasaka Village Tourism Association)
・「日本の城改訂版第103号」デアゴスティーニジャパン(Japanese Book)
・「日本の攻城戦55/柘植久慶」PHP文庫(Japanese Book)

27.上田城(Ueda Castle)

Location and History

上田城は、長野県上田市の最も有名なシンボルの一つです。この城は真田氏によって築城されました。城に向かう道すがら、真田の旗印である「六文銭」(三途の川の渡し賃の意味)がたくさん目に入ってきます。
The Ueda castle is one of the most famous symbols of Ueda city in Nagano prefecture. The castle was founded by the Sanada clan. You can see a lot of Sanada’s flag of “Rokumonsen” (six one-mon coins), which is the fee for crossing the Styx, which is beside the castle.

「六文銭」旗印と上田城(The flag of “Rokumonsen” and Ueda Castle)taken by 松波庄九郎 from photo AC

戦国時代後期の大名、真田昌幸が1583年に最初に上田城を築きました。彼は、真田一族の独立を意図し、後に幕府を開くことになる徳川氏に反抗しました。徳川は2回この真田の城を攻めたのですが、真田は負けませんでした。特に、1600年の天下分け目の合戦の中で行われた2回目の戦いがよく知られています。それ以来、真田とこの城が有名になったのです。徳川は激怒し、天下を取った後この城を完全に破壊させました。
Masayuki Sanada, a lord in the late Civil war period first built Ueda castle in 1583. He aimed to make his clan more independent against the Tokugawa clan which would become the Shogunate. Tokugawa attacked the Sanada castle twice, but they couldn’t be defeated. The second one was particularly a well-known battle among the fateful battles in 1600. That had made Sanada and this castle famous from then on. However, Tokugawa was so angry that they ordered to have the castle completely destroyed after the clan came to power.

真田昌幸像、個人蔵(The picture of Masayuki Sanada, privately owned)licensed under Public Domain, via Wikimedia Commons

結果的として実は、真田の城がどんなだったかはわからないのです。江戸時代になって、仙石忠政が上田藩の藩主として移封されてきたとき、城の再建を許可されました。忠政は真田の城を再現しようとしたのですが、それを果たす前に亡くなってしまいました。今、私たちが目にしているのは、忠政によって残された土木建築の一部なのです。
As a result, in fact, the structure of Sanada’s castle is uncertain. In the Edo period, when Tadamasa Sengoku was transferred to the lord of the feudal domain of Ueda, he was allowed to rebuild the castle. He tried to recreate the Sanada castle, but he died before it had done. Now we can see part of the remaining buildings and constructions made by Sengoku.

仙石忠政像、上田市立博物館蔵(The picture of Tadamasa Sengoku, owned by Ueda City Museum)licensed under Public Domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Features

現在、「本丸」とそこにある3棟の「櫓」の建物、そして「二の丸」が残っています。本丸は高く盛られていて、北・東・西の三方向を水堀と二の丸によって囲まれています。過去においては、その三方向の外側が更に川と湿地帯よって守られていました。
Now, the main enclosure “Honmaru” with the buildings of three turrets “Yagura” and the second enclosure “Ninomaru” remains. Honmaru is highly elevated and it is surrounded by a water moat and Ninomaru in north, east and west directions. In the past, the outside of the three directions were also protected by rivers and waterlogged areas.

最新の城周辺地図(The latest map around the castle)

MarkerMarkerMarker
Leaflet, © OpenStreetMap contributors



本丸の南の方は、急崖による天然の要害になっていて、現在でも見ることができます。更には、「尼ヶ淵」という今は干上がっている沼沢があり、崖に沿って流れている千曲川につながっていました。それも障壁だったのです。
The south of it has natural hazard with a steep cliff which can be seen today. In addition, a pool called “Amagafuchi” which drys up now, connected to the Chikuma River that flows alongside the cliff. it was another hazard.

本丸の南面(The south side of Honmaru)

(’19-9-10 追記 added)
上田城に天守があったかどうかははっきりしません。「武家事記」という古書では初期の上田城のことを「天守も無き小城」と述べている一方、江戸時代の寛政年間の古地図には「御天守跡」との記載があります。よって歴史家の意見は分かれていました。しかし最近になって本丸の辺りから、天守で使われたような金箔瓦が出土したのです。現在、多くの歴史家は天守か、それに準ずる豪華な櫓があったのではないかと考えています。
It is uncertain whether Ueda Castle had the keep “Tenshu” or not. While an old book “Buke-Jiki” calls the early castle “A small castle even without the Tenshu”, another old map in the Kanei Eea, Edo peried records “The ruin of the Tenshu”. So historians’ opinion remained devided. But, recently an old roof tile with gold leaf that might have been used for Tenshu was excavated from the Honmaru area. Now, many historians think the castle had the Tenshu or a similar luxury turret “Yagura”.

「御天守跡」の記載がある古地図「上田城構之図」部分(The part of the old map called “Ueda-Jo-Kamae-no-Zu” recording “The ruin of the Tenshu”)、協力:上田市マルチメディア情報センター

Later Life

明治維新の後、2つの櫓が売られていき、遊郭の建物として使用されました。最悪の時には、たった一つの櫓(西櫓)を残すのみとなり、他は撤去されてしまいました。
After the Meiji restoration, two of those turrets were sold and used as Geisha houses. At the worst time, only one turret (the West Yagura) remained and the others were removed.

西櫓(The West Yagura)

第二次世界大戦後、市民たちは売られた2つの櫓を買い戻すことに成功し、元あった場所に据え付け直しました(北櫓と南櫓)。最近になって、東虎口櫓門と袖塀が忠実に復元され、北と南の櫓をつなぎました。この辺りの外観が、昔ながらの姿に正確に再現されたことで、絶好の写真スポットになっています。
After the World War II, citizens were successful to get the bought turrets back and placed them to their original positions (the North and South Yagura). Recently, the East entrance gate and side walls were rebuilt in the original way connecting the north and south Yagura. Their appearance has become an accurate representation of the past, and has become a good photo spot.

東虎口櫓門と南北櫓(The East Entrance between the North and South Yagura)taken by チャコ from photo AC

My Impression

先ほど申し上げました通り、真田の城そのものは現在見ることはできません。しかし、後に続いた城主仙石忠政は、英雄である真田にちなんで築城できないかどうかと考えたのではないでしょうか。だから真田の城の思想は、忠政の城に引き継がれていると思うのです。それが正しければ、今現在存在する城を見て、真田の城がどうあったかというのも理解できるはずです。
As mentioned above, we can’t see the structure of Sanada’s castle. But I imagine that the following lord Sengoku was wondering if he could build his castle after the brave Sanada. So I think the idea behind Sanada’s castle could led to the castle by Sengoku. If that was true, we can understand how Sanada created their castle by examining the castle now.

忠政が掘り起こした本丸の水堀(The water moat at Honmaru that Sengoku dug up once again)

この城は、高低差、自然の要害、人口の構築物をうまく使って、少ない兵で敵から守れるようコンパクトに作られたのだと言えます。
I can say the castle was made compact to prevent enemies with a small number of soldiers, using different elevations, natural hazard, and artificial structures.

本丸から二の丸を見下ろす(A view looking down Ninomaru from Honmaru)

南面の崖に行ってみて、崖の崩壊を防ぐため各時代に作られた様々な石垣を見てみるのもおすすめです。
I recommend you see the south side cliff where you can also find many kinds of stone walls to prevent the cliff from collapsing in different times.

南面の様々な石垣(The different kinds of stone walls on the south side)

How to get There

上田駅から歩いて15分くらいです。
東京から上田までは、直通の北陸新幹線があります。
It takes about 15 minutes on foot from the Ueda train station.
There is a direct train from Tokyo to Ueda via the Hokuriku Shinkansen super express.

Links and References

上田城・上田城跡公園~信州上田観光協会(Uedajo Castle~Ueda City Tourism Association)