Kokokuji Castle was located in what is now Numazu City, Shizuoka Prefecture. The area of the city was in Suruga Province (now central part of Shizuoka Pref.) which many warlords tried to take over in the 16 Century during the Sengoku Period.
The location of the castle and the range of Suruga Province
The castle was on the southern edge of the hilly terrain of Ashitaka-yama Mountain. There was a marshland to the south, east and west of the castle which was as natural hazard that helped to protect the castle. The castle was built using the natural terrain of the mountain and marshland. The castle was also an important point for transportation. A road at the foot of the mountain called the Nekata Road passed beside the castle. In addition, the Takeda Road close to the castle ran from the Nekata Road to the Tokaido Road at the seaside.
A relief map around the castle
The two roads are still connected to the castle ruins
The castle mainly consisted of three enclosures on the hill in a terraced manner. The Main Enclosure was at the highest, and there was a large deep dry moat behind the enclosure to prevent enemies’ attacks from the north. The castle even had ports on both sides for ships on the marsh.
Part of the illustration of Shinkokuji Castle in Suruga Province, exhibited by the National Diet Library (It is supposed to be Kokokuji Castle)
The castle itself might have been simple but is well known for its history. This is because some history books say that Kokokuji Castle was the first castle for a famous warlord, Soun Hojo to govern. He was one of the earliest warlords in the late 15 Century who supported the Imagawa Clan in Suruga Province. He was given the castle by the clan in 1487. His success story starts at this castle, and he went on to capture a part of the Kanto Region. His descendants followed in his footsteps to capture the other parts of the Kanto Region.
The replica of the portrait of Soun Hojo, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
However, there is no other evidence of the castle existing at the same time as Soun. The first appearance of the castle in a public document can only be traced back to 1549. At that time, Yoshimoto Imagawa ordered that the Kokoku-ji Temple be moved to another location to make space for building a new castle there. What is the truth about the matter? A historian gives us an interesting hypothesis that the castle was a temple called Kokoku-ji when Soun owned it. Kokoku-ji is originally a name of temple (“ji” means temple in Japanese). Kokokuji Castle is thought to be named after the Kokoku-ji Temple.
The statue of Yoshimoto Imagawa at Okehazama Battlefield Park (taken by HiC from photoAC)
The historian suggests another speculation about why the castle was built. A period of peace once came to the area around Suruga Province with Imgawa, Hojo, and Takeda Clans when the castle was built. Castles were basically built for battles, but Kokokuji Castle might have been built for the meeting with the three clans or as a symbol of peace. It is said that the three clans had a conference for their alliance at the Zentokuji-Temple. The temple may have been Kokokuji Caste.
The portrait of Shingen Takeda, the lord of the Takeda Clan at that time, owned by Jimyo-in Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Unfortunately, the alliance broke in 1568, while Kokokuji Castle was involved in war. The lords of the castle were rapidly changed several times from the Imagawa Clan to the Hojo, Takeda, Toyotomi, and Tokugawa Clans. As the number of the lords increased, the range of the castle seemed to become larger. In 1601, Yasukage Amano under Tokugawa became the last lord of the castle and the founder of the Kokokuji Domain. He governed the area well, but he ran away from the castle because of trouble between his citizens and others. The castle was finally abandoned when the domain was abolished in 1607.
Yasukage Amano from the Battle of Komaki-Nagakute folding screens (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
安東氏が最盛期のときの城
The castle when the Ando clan was its peak
立地と歴史～Location and History
舟運で繁栄した出羽国～Dewa Province Prospering by Ships
近代以前、大量輸送は船によって行われましたが、海上での航海は危険でした。船が十分発達していなかったからです。日本の場合、中世においては、商業船は主には太平洋ではなく、瀬戸内海や日本海などの内海を航行していました。そのため、当時は内海沿いの大きな港をもつ地域が繫栄しました。出羽国（現在の秋田、山形県を合わせた範囲）はそのような地域でした。 Before the Modern times, mass transportation was done by ships, but sailing on ocean could be dangerous because ships were not developed enough. In the case of Japan, in the Middle Ages, merchant ships sailed mainly on islands seas, such as the Seto Island Sea and the Japan Sea, not on the Pacific Ocean. For this reason, areas with a large port along the island seas prospered at that time. Dewa Province (combining what is now Akita and Yamagata Prefectures) was one such areas.
1860年代の日本古来の弁財船～Traditional Japanese junks in 1860s （licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
秋田で力をつけた安東氏～Ando Clan has power at Akita
安東氏は、北出羽（大体今の秋田県）を根拠地として海上交通を支配して大きな勢力となりました。戦国時代（日本中の地方大名が覇権をめぐって争った時代）には安東氏は、檜山安東氏と湊安東氏の２つのグループに分かれていました。檜山安東氏は北秋田にあった檜山城に住み、湊安東氏は南秋田にあった湊城を拠点としていました。 The Ando Clans had a great power to manage the marine transportation based in the north Dewa (roughly now Akita Prefecture). In the “Sengoku” Period- a period when local clans around Japan were fighting for control over all of the country- the Ando Clans was divided into two groups namely the Hiyama-Ando Clan and the Minato-Ando Clan. The Hiyama-Ando Clan lived in Hiyama Castle which was located on the northern part of Akita, while the Minato-Ando Clan lived in Minato Castle located on the southern part of Akita.
城の位置～The location of the castle
安東愛季は、最初は檜山安東氏の総領でしたが、湊安東氏に固有の跡継ぎがいなかったため、取り込むことに成功しました。彼は、秋田全域を統治することで最も有力な戦国大名の一人になったのです・ Chikasue Ando was at first the lord of the Hiyama-Ando, but was able to take over the Minato-Ando as it didn’t have its own successor. As a result, he ruled over the entire Akita and became known as one of the greatest warlords.
安東愛季の肖像画、東北大学附属図書館蔵～The portrait of Chikasue Ando, owned by Tohoku University Library （licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
愛季は1577年、彼の本拠地を檜山城と湊城の間にある城に移しました。彼が選んだ城が脇本城だったのです。この城は最初は１５世紀に築かれたと言われていますが、その後愛季が東日本では有数の規模の山城にまで拡張しました（約１５０ヘクタール）。この城は、男鹿半島の根元にある１００ｍの高さの丘の上に築かれ、重要な商業港であった土崎湊の近くでもありました。また、主要道路の「天下道」が城の中を通っているため、非常に戦略的な立地であり、城の領主は完全に交通を制御することができました。 Chikasue moved his home base to a castle located between Hiyama and Minato Castles in 1577. The castle that he chose was the Wakimoto Castle. The castle is said to be first built in the 15th century, then Chikasue developed the castle as one of the largest mountain castles in eastern Japan (about 150 hectare). The castle was located on a 100m high hill in the connecting part of Oga Peninsula, near an important trading port called Tsuchizaki-minato. This location proved to be very strategic as a main road called “Tenga-michi” ran between the two sides of the castle giving the Lord full control over transportation.
遺跡の全体図、現地案内板より～The whole map of the ruins, from the signboard at the site
愛季は支配者として絶頂期にあって、領土を拡張する一方、織田信長といった外の有力戦国大名とは手紙や贈り物により親交を深めました。ところが、1587年の戦いのさ中、彼は突然の病に倒れ、亡くなってしまいます。彼の息子、実季は湊城に住み、最終的には1602年に徳川幕府により関東地方に移されてしまいました。脇本城はそれから廃城となってしまったようです。 Chikasue was at the peak of his career as an administrator expanding his territory and building relationship with other great warlords such as Nobunaga Oda by sending letters and gifts. However, during a battle in 1587 he suddenly fell ill and died. His son, Sanesue lived in Minato Castle and was lastly transferred to Kanto Region by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1602. Wakimoto Castle seemed to be abandoned since then.
安東実季木造、羽賀寺蔵～The wooden statue of Sanesue Ando, owned by Haga-ji Temple （licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
特徴～Features
城跡へ登っていく～Walking up to Castle Ruins
現在、脇本城跡は今もって非常に広大であり、５つの地区に分けられています。しかしながら、５つの地区全てが等しく整備されているわけではありません。そこで、私の訪問時には、一番整備されている「内館」１箇所を見学しました。ここは城の中心部分であり、現在はより整備されていて、観光客が訪れやすいようになっています。 Now, the ruins of Wakimoto Castle are still very large, and they are divided into five areas. However, not all the 5 areas have been developed equally. So, when I visited, I covered the one that was most developed which is “Uchidate”. This was the main portion of the castle, and now is further developed for tourists to visit easily.
城周辺の航空写真～The aerial photo of around the castle
城跡の入口は国道１０１号線沿いにあります。車で来られた方のために駐車場があります。そこから城跡への道を登っていく必要がありますが、それはかつてからある「天下道」の一部分です。更に進んで城跡の案内所を過ぎると、丘の頂上部分が見えてきます。 The entrance of the ruins is alongside National Route 101. You can park at a parking lot if you are driving. Then, you need to walk up the road to the ruins which was part of the old road, “Tenga-michi”. When you go farther passing through the guide house of the ruins, you will see the top of the hill.
城跡の入口～The entrance of the castle ruins残っている「天下道」～The remaining “Tenga-michi” road案内所を越えて頂上へ～Passing the guide house to the top
生鼻崎周辺～Around Oihana-saki Cape
基本的に、戦国時代の東日本では、城の基礎部分は土造りでした。城跡には建物はありませんが、土塁、空堀、虎口などが残っています。丘の頂上に登ってみると、左手（西の方角）には、海に突き出ている「生鼻崎」という岬の上にたくさんの曲輪があるのがわかります。それらの曲輪は岬の先端に向かって列を作って並んでいます。実はかつてはもっと多くの曲輪が岬と共に海に伸びていたのですが、江戸時代の地震のときに崩壊してしまいました。歴史家はこれらの曲輪は安東氏の家臣の屋敷地として使われたのではないかとしています。岬の先端では、日本海の荒々しい姿が見えます。 Basically, the foundations of the castles, in eastern Japan during the Sengoku Period, were made out of soil. The ruins have no buildings, instead they have earthen walls, dry moats, entrances, etc. When you climb on top of the hill, you will see a lot of enclosures on a cape called “Oibana-saki”, sticking out to the sea on the left on the west direction. You can see that these enclosures are in lines towards the top of the cape. In fact, there were many more enclosures with the cape spread to the sea in the past, but they collapsed when an earthquake happened in the Edo Period. Historians speculate that they were used for the Ando clan’s retainers’ houses. At the top of the cape, you can also have a wild view of the Japan Sea.
内館地区の地図、現地案内板に注記～The map of Uchidate Area, from the signboard at the site, adding notes岬に伸びる曲輪～The enclosures spreading to the cape生鼻崎周辺の想像図、現地案内板より～The imaginary drawing around Oibana-saki Cape, from the signboard at the site日本海の眺め～A view of the Japan Sea
城の中心部分～Center of Castle
道の反対側の東の方向には、空堀に囲まれたもっと大きな曲輪があります。この辺りが、城の中心地であったと考えられます。歴史家は、北側には別々の目的で作られた２つの建物があったと推定しています。一つは公式の儀式で使われた「主殿」という建物で、もう一つはお客をもてなす「会所」という建物です。 There are two larger enclosures surrounded by dry moats on the opposite side of the route on the east direction. They are supposed to be the center of the castle. Historians also speculate that two buildings on the northern side were used for other purposes. For example one of them was used as the building for the public ceremonies called “Shuden’ and the other for hosting the guests called “Kaisho”.
城の中心部分～The center of the castle空堀～The dry moat北側の曲輪～The north enclosure中心部の想像図、現地案内板より～The imaginary drawing around the center, from the signboard at the site
もう一つの南側の曲輪は高くて太い土塁に囲まれており、これもまたとても大きいものです。ここには城主の館があったと考えられています。愛季が住んでいたのでしょうか。この曲輪からは、海岸線とかつては城下町であった街並みの素晴らしい景色が望めます。 The other southern enclosure is surrounded by high thick earthen walls, and it is also very large one. This is thought to be used as the house of the lord. I wonder if Chikasue lived in it. From the enclosure, you can also have a great view of the coast line and the town which was once the castle town.
土塁に囲まれた南側の曲輪～The south enclosure surrounded by the earthen walls海岸線の景色～A view of the coast line
その後～Later History
江戸時代の1804年、有名な旅行家の菅江真澄が脇本城の城跡を訪れています。彼は日記に城跡のことを記録し、スケッチも残しました。1993年からは調査が行われており、この城が非常に大きな規模であったことがわかりました。そのため、城跡は2004年に国の史跡に指定されました。 In 1804 of the Edo Period, a famous traveler, Masumi Sugae visited the ruins of Wakimoto Castle. He recorded the ruins on his diary and left his sketches of them. Investigations have been done since 1993 and it was found out that the castle had a huge scale. Because of it, the ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 2004.
菅江真澄の脇本城のスケッチ、現地案内板より～One of Sugae’s sketches for Wakimoto Castle, from the signboard at the site
私の感想～My Impression
私が脇本城跡に行ったときは、ひどい天気でした。更に「内館」地区しか行っていません。それでもこの城跡が大変な規模だということは言えます。もし晴れた日に十分時間が取れれば、もっと城跡を満喫できると思います。他の有名な城に比べてこの城の研究は始まったばかりです。この城から新たな発見がもたらされるのが楽しみです。 When I visited the ruins of Wakimoto Castle, the weather was very bad. In addition, I saw only one area called “Uchidate”, but I was able to witness the large scale of the ruins. If you have enough time to visit the ruins in a fine day, you can enjoy them more! I think the study for the castle have just started compared with other famous castles. I will be looking forward to seeing the new discovery from the castle.
岬側からの城跡の風景～A view of the castle ruins from the cape
ここに行くには～How to get There
車で行く場合：秋田自動車道昭和男鹿ICから約３０分かかります。城跡の入口に駐車場があります。 電車の場合、ＪＲ男鹿線脇本駅から城跡まで歩いて約３０分かかります。 東京から脇本駅まで：新幹線に乗り、秋田駅で男鹿線に乗り換えてください。 If you want to go there by car: It takes about 30 minutes from the Showa-Oga IC on Akita Expressway. There is a parking lot at the entrance of the ruins. By train, It takes about 30 minutes from Wakimoto Station on JR Oga line to the ruins on foot. From Tokyo to Wakimoto Station: Take the Shinkansen super express and transfer to Oga line at Akita Station.
リンク、参考情報～Links and References
・脇本城跡、男鹿市観光協会（Oga city tourism association） ・「日本の城改訂版第１５０号」デアゴスティーニジャパン（Japanese Book） ・「土崎港（秋田港）の「みなと文化」／渡辺英夫」（Japanese Paper）
吉田城は、豊川と朝倉川の合流点のすぐ隣に位置しており、現在は愛知県豊橋市に属します。この城はまた、陸上と水上交通の結節点にも当たり、戦略的な位置にありました。そのため、戦国時代には、今川、徳川といった戦国大名がこの城を巡って戦いました。そして、最終的には徳川氏がこの城を制し、所有しました。徳川時代の城の構造は不明ですが、歴史家は、恐らく土造りの城だったであろうと推測しています。 Yoshida Castle is located beside the meeting point of Toyokawa and Asakura-gawa Rivers in what is now Toyohashi City, Aichi Pref. Its location was also strategic for transportation in ground and water, so Warlords such as the Imagawa and Tokugawa clans battled each other over this castle during the Sengoku or Warring States Period. It was finally conquered and owned by Tokugawa for many years. Though the structure of the castle in the Tokugawa’s Era was not clear, historians speculate the foundation of the caste was all made of earth.
城の位置～The location of the castle
城から見た豊川～A view of Toyokawa River from the castle
池田輝政が城を拡張～Terumasa Ikeda improved the castle
１５９０年、天下人の豊臣秀吉は、徳川に関東地方に移るよう命じ、池田輝政をこの城の主に据えました。輝政は彼の１０年間の統治期間に、城を増強し、櫓や石垣を築きます。その後は、徳川幕府の譜代大名が江戸時代の間、この城を統治し、維持していました。最盛期には、川を背にして本丸、二の丸、三の丸といった曲輪が外側に向かって配置され、空堀によって隔てられていました。更には、外郭として土塁が周りを囲んでおり、その外周は約４ｋｍありました。 In 1590, the ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi ordered Tokugawa to move to the Kanto Region, and placed Terumasa Ikeda as the lord of the castle. Terumasa improved the castle, building turrets and stone walls over a period of ten years. After that, hereditary feudal lords under the Tokugawa Shogunate governed and maintained the castle in the Edo Period. At its peak, with the back of the rivers, it had the Honmaru, Ninomaru, Sannnomaru enclosures towards the outside, divided by deep moats. It also had earthen walls as the outline whose perimeter was about 4 km.
池田輝政肖像画、鳥取県立美術館蔵～The Portrait of Terumasa Ikeda, owned by Tottori prefectural art museum（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）吉田藩士屋敷図～The map of Yoshida feudal domain houses（現地説明板より）
特徴～Features
未完成の城？～Incomplete castle?
吉田城は時折、未完成の城と言われます。その理由の一つはこの城には天守がないこと、そして部分的にしか石垣に覆われていないこと、これらが東海地方の他の主要な城である名古屋、岡崎、浜松、掛川、駿府と比べられているのでしょう。もう一つの理由が池田輝政にあります。彼は、吉田を出てから世界遺産である姫路城を完成させます。彼が吉田にもっと居てくれたなら、吉田城を姫路城のような城にしてくれたのではないかというものです。 Yoshida Castle is sometimes called an incomplete castle, and one reason is because it had no Main Tower or Tenshu, and was just partly covered with stone walls, compared to other major castles in Tokai Region like Nagoya, Okazaki, Hamamatsu, Kakegawa, and Sunpu. Another reason is due to Terumasa. He completed Himeji Castle, a World Heritage Site, after he moved from Yoshida. Some people guess he might have completed Yoshida Castle like Himeji if he had spent more time in Yoshida.
本丸の周辺、部分的に石垣が使われている～The around Honmaru , partly covered by stone walls世界遺産、姫路城～Himeji Castle, a World Heritage Site
鉄櫓が天守か？～Was Kurogane Turret the Main Tower?
歴史家の内には、記録がないだけで吉田城には天守はあったはずだという人もいます。他には、鉄櫓と呼ばれるこの城の三階櫓が天守だったのだという人もいます。この櫓は、他の城のいくつかの天守より大きいサイズだったこと、（鉄櫓にあった）鉄が使われる門は通常は天守のためのものだったことが根拠です。石垣の件に関しては、郷土史家によれば、もともとこの城は土でできており、そのため、輝政は必要と思う場所にのみ石垣を築いたのだとのことです。石垣を築くには不適当な箇所がたくさんあり、事実輝政の後の大名たちは、洪水や地震の後に、大変な労力でもって石垣を修復していました。 Some historians argue that the castle must have had a Tenshu despite no records remaining. Others say that a three-story turret in the castle, called “Kurogane” Turret, was the Tenshu, as the turret was larger than other Tenshu in some castles and the gate using iron (called Kurogane) was usually used for Tenshu. In the matter of stone walls, local historians explain that the castle had basically been made of earth. Because of it, Terumasa built his stone walls on where he needed them. There were many places which were not suitable for building stone walls. Actually, the lords of the castle following Terumasa all put great efforts to repair the stone walls after floods and earthquakes
吉田城の古写真～An old picture of Yoshida Castle（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）多くの石垣が修復されています～A lot of stone wall were repaired
城跡は豊橋公園に～Ruins become Toyohashi Park
城周辺の航空写真～The aerial photo of around the castle
現在城跡は、大部分が三の丸の内側になりますが、豊橋公園として使われています。史跡として楽しめるのは、主に本丸と川沿いのエリアです。輝政が築いたオリジナルの石垣の上に、１９５４年に鉄櫓が復興再建されました。もともとの鉄櫓は、現在のものよりも大きかったと言われています。 Now, the ruins of the castle, almost the inside of Sannnomaru, are used as Toyohashi Park. You can mainly enjoy the Honmaru area and the riverside as historical spots. There is the reconstructed Kurogane Turret built in 1954 on the original stone walls base by Terumasa. The original turret was said to be larger than the current one.
本丸の入口～The entrance of Honmaru area再建された鉄櫓～The reconstructed Kurogane Turret
本丸の内側にある他の石垣は、輝政の後に、将軍を迎えるための御殿を作ったときに築かれました。また、川沿いにもたくさんの石垣を見ることができますが、これらは更に後の時代になって置き換えられたものです。この辺りには水門跡もあります。他の公園の敷地は、文化芸術施設のために使われています。そこでも、土塁、石垣、空堀の類を見ることができるかもしれません。 Other stone walls inside Honmaru were built when the main hall for Shogun was built after Terumasa. You can also see lots of stone walls along the riverside which were replaced much later. There are also the ruins of the water gate there. The rest of the park is used for cultural and athletic facilities. You may even find the ruin such as earthen walls, stone walls, and dry moats there.
本丸の内側～The inside of Honmaru川沿いの遊歩道～The promenade along the riverside水門跡～The ruins of the water gate
その後～Later History
明治維新後、吉田城は廃城となり、城の全ての建物は撤去されました。そして、第二次世界大戦まで日本軍によって使われていました。 After the Meiji Restoration, Yoshida Castle was abolished and all of the buildings were demolished. The ruins were used by the Japanese Army until World War II.
歩兵第１１８連隊の記念碑～The monument of the The 118th infantry regiment
私の感想～My Impression
私は、全ての城は未完成だと思うのです。全ての城はかつては戦い、統治そして権威付けのために使われてきて、芸術のためではありません。そして状況が変われば、それに応じて改造されてきたのです。現在でさえ、城や城跡は常に変わり続けており、それが魅力なのです。ついでながら、もし輝政がもう何年か吉田に留まっていたとしても、吉田城は姫路城とは異なっていたでしょう。立地や状況が違っていたからです。 I think all the castles were never completed. They all had been used for battles, governance and authority, not for art. They had to be modified to deal with a different situations. Even now, castles and ruins are always changing, and that is what is attracting us. In addition, even if Terumasa stayed in Yoshida for more years, Yoshida Castle would have been different from Himeji. It would have depended on its location and situation.
本丸の空堀、右側は石垣、左側は土塁～The dry moat at Honmaru, the right side is stone walls, the left side is earthen walls
ここに行くには～How to get There
車の場合：東名自動車道の豊橋ＩＣから約２０分かかります。公園の中に駐車場があります。 電車の場合は、豊橋駅前にある駅前停留所から市電の赤岩口、運動公園前または競輪場前行きに乗り、市役所前か豊橋公園前停留所で降りてください。 東京または大阪から豊橋駅まで：新幹線に乗ってください。 If you want to go there by car: It takes about 20 minutes from the Toyohashi IC on Tomei Expressway. There is a parking lot in the park. When using train, take the tram for Akaiwaguchi, Undokoen-mae or Keirinjo-mae at the Eki-mae stop in front of Toyohashi Station, and take off the Shiyakusho-mae or Toyohashikoen-mae stop. From Tokyo or Osaka to Toyohashi Station: Take the Shinkansen super express.
