The castle for the western defense of the Hojo Clan
Location and History
Western Defense for Hojo Clan
Yamanaka Castle was located on the west of Hakone Barrier, the western gateway of Kanto Region, now in the eastern part of Shizuoka Prefecture. The castle was first built in the middle 16th Century during the Sengoku Period by the Hojo Clan, who owned Kanto Region. The clan aimed to protect their home base, Odawara Castle on the eastern side of Hakone Barrier, by building Yamanaka Castle. This castle was also improved before the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attacked the Hojo Clan in 1590.
The location of the castle
Yamanaka Castle was built surrounding the Tokaido Road, one of the major roads in Japan. During that time, if someone walked up the slope on the road from the west, it would require passing through the castle. The road was actually on the Third Enclosures of the castle, and beside the Main Enclosure. The Third Enclosure also had water moats on the west to prevent enemies’ attacks and was for the water reservoir. On the south of the Third Enclosure, a long defense strongpoint called “Taizaki-demaru” spread with the road parallelly. On the west of the Third Enclosure, the Second Enclosure, the West Enclosure, and the West Turret were added towards that direction. These enclosures were able to work closely to prevent attacks from enemy forces.
The location map of the ruins of Yamanaka Castle (from the signboard at the site)
Hojo’s Unique Methods for building Castle
The techniques used in the castle were unique to the Hojo Clan. All the enclosures were made of earthworks, using natural terrain such as ridges and valleys. They were mainly connected by wooden bridges which could fall down when a battle happened. They were also divided by deep dry moats whose bottoms were left parallel or as latticed ridges. The method for building the moats is called “Une-bori” for the parallel ridges and “Shoji-bori” for the latticed ridges. These dry moat building methods are considered features of the Hojo’s castles. Once soldiers fell into the moat, they couldn’t move from there at all. The area of the castle reached about 200,000 square meters. Hojo thought the castle could make Hideyoshi stuck for a while.
“Une-bori” for the parallel ridges“Shoji-bori” for the latticed ridges
Fall in Battle of Yamanaka Castle
However, the castle was captured by Hideyoshi in just half a day. In the early morning, March 29, 1590, nearly 70,000 soldiers of Hideyoshi’s troop started to attack the castle, while the number of the defenders was only about 4,000. The attackers first charged both the West Turret and the Taizaki-Demaru defense strongpoint, but they suffered a significant number of casualties by the counterattack of Hojo’s guns. If it was a local battle, the attacker might have paused the charge to prevent more damages. However, the commanders forcibly continued to charge, otherwise, they might have been fired by the ruler. That resulted in the success of capturing the castle for Hideyoshi in exchange for a lot of dead soldiers including one of the Hideyoshi’s commander, Naosue Hitotsuyanagi.
The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, ownd by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
This battle lasted for a few hours. It is said that another reason for the short battle was that Hojo’s soldiers were confused because their head, Ujikatsu Hojo, escaped from the castle. Others point out that the Taizaki-Demaru defense strongpoint was unfinished in construction before Hideyoshi’s attack. Anyway, even such a strong castle couldn’t survive without enough soldiers and the right instructions.
困難を乗り越え奇跡的に生き残った最高の城
The best castle that miraculously survived difficulties
概要～Overviews
姫路城は、その白亜の天守群を世界中に知られており、よく「白鷺城」という別名で呼ばれたりしています。大天守は、日本の城で現存している１２天守の中では最大のものであり、31.5ｍの高さ（天守台石垣を含めると45.35ｍ）があります。大天守、３基の小天守、その他の構造物と合わせた一体が国宝に指定されています。 Himeji Castle is known around the world for its beautiful group of white Main Towers and is often nicknamed White Heron Castle or “Shirasagi-jo”. The Large Main Tower is the largest one out of the 12 remaining main towers in Japanese castles, which is 31.5m high (45.35m including the stone wall base). The Large Main Tower, the three Small Main Towers, and the other structures on the property have been designated as National Treasures of Japan.
姫路城の天守群～The group of the Main Towers of Himeji Castle
更には、多くの曲輪、石垣、水堀など、城の基礎部分が、ほとんどそのまま残っていて、天守を取り囲んでいます。これら城の主要部分はまた、国の特別史跡に指定されています。27基の櫓、15基の門、32枚の塀という、数多くの建物がその基礎の上に現存しています。これらは全て国の重要文化財に指定されています。 In addition, the current structure of the castle mostly consists of a lot of enclosures, stone walls, and water moats surrounding the Main Tower. The main portion of the castle is designated as a National Special Historic Site. The remaining buildings on the structure include as many as 27 turrets, 15 gates and 32 walls. They have all become Important Cultural Properties.
天守を囲む櫓と石垣～One of the turrets and stone walls surrounding the Main Tower
その上に、この城は日本の歴史の中で重要な役割を担いましたが、それは後述します。その役割を終えた後でも、幸運もあったかもしれませんが、日本の人々はこの城を守り続けました。現在この城は、姫路市の最も有名で且つ大事なシンボルとなっています。1993年からは日本では初となる世界文化遺産にも指定されています。 Moreover, the castle had an important role in Japanese history, which I will describe later. Even after that role ended, the people of Japan continued to maintain the castle, although some people might say it survived by good luck. Now, people consider the castle as the greatest, most respected symbol in Himeji City. It has been a cultural site on the World Heritage List since 1993, which was the first case in Japan.
天守（正面）～The Main Tower (the front)
これらのことから私は、一般的に日本のどの城がベストかと聞かれた場合、それぞれの方に好みがあるにしても、それは姫路城ですと明言できます。 For those reasons, if I am asked from someone which castle is the best in Japan generally, I can clearly answer it is Himeji Castle, though each has his/her own preference.
立地と歴史～Location and History
姫路城は、兵庫県西部の播州平野にある標高45.6ｍ姫山の上にあります。この城は、最初は１４世紀に赤松氏によって築かれたと言われていますが、詳細は不明です。城周辺の地域は肥沃で交通の要所であり、山陽街道が通っていました。ただしこの城は、周りにある多くの城のうちの一つに過ぎませんでした。この状況は戦国時代の１６世紀、黒田官兵衛が城を所有していた時に変わりました。東には織田氏、西には毛利氏が姫路城周辺の地を狙っている中、官兵衛は織田氏に味方することを決意しました。官兵衛は、姫路城を織田の家臣である羽柴秀吉に差し出したのです。秀吉は、後に天下人である豊臣秀吉となります。 Himeji Castle is located on 45.6m high Himeyama mountain in the Banshu Plain, the western part of Hyogo Prefecture. It is said that the castle was first built by Akamatsu Clan in the 14th century, but the details are uncertain. The area around the castle was fertile and important for transportation where the Sanyo Road passed through, but the castle was among the many castles around. The situation changed in the late 16th century during the Sengoku Period when Kanbe Kuroda owned the castle. With the Oda Clan on the east and the Mori Clan on the west, aiming to invade the area around the Himeji castle, Kanbe decided to support the Oda Clan. He offered his Himeji Castle to Oda’s retainer, Hideyoshi Hashiba, who later became the ruler of Japan and subsequently changed his name to Hideyoshi Toyotomi.
城の位置～The location of the castle
黒田官兵衛肖像画、崇福寺蔵～The portrait of Kanbe Kuroda, owned by Sofukuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
秀吉は毛利の領地を侵略するため、この城を根拠地とし、城の拡張を行いました。秀吉時代の城には三層の天守がありましたが、詳細はその遺跡が現在の天守の下にあるため明らかになっていません。城の基本的な構造はこの時代に確立したと言われています。1582年、秀吉と官兵衛は姫路城から100ｋｍ近く西方にある備中高松城を攻撃していました。そのとき本能寺の変が起こり、秀吉と官兵衛の主君である織田信長が明智光秀により殺されました。秀吉は直ちに西方の毛利氏と講和を結びます。これにより秀吉は、主には徒歩による移動で重い荷物を自ら運ぶしかなかった前近代の軍隊を、わずか３日で姫路城に戻すことができたのです。彼はこの城で準備を整えてから出陣し、光秀を倒した後、天下を掌握することに成功しました。 Hideyoshi was based at the castle to invade Mori’s territory, and developed the castle. The castle of Hideyoshi’s period had a three-layer Main Tower; the details of which are uncertain because its ruins are under the present Main Tower. It is said that the basic structure of the castle was established at that time. In 1582, Hideyoshi with Kanbe attacked Bicchu-Takamatsu Castle, nearly 100km away from Himeji Castle on the west. The Honnoji Incident happened where Hideyoshi’s and Kanbe’s boss, Nobunaga Oda was killed by Mitsuhide Akechi. Hideyoshi quickly made peace with the Mori Clan. This allowed Hideyoshi to quickly return to Himeji Castle within 3 days with pre-modern large troops travelling mainly by foot and transporting heavy items. He prepared and left the castle to beat Mitsuhide and was successful in taking over control of Japan.
豊臣秀吉肖像画、加納光信筆、高台寺蔵～The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, ownd by Kodaiji Temple（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）備中高松城跡～The ruins of Bicchu-Takamatsu Castle
秀吉の死後、豊臣氏に代わって徳川家康が1600年に実権を握りました。家康は、娘婿である池田輝政を吉田城から姫路城に移しました。輝政は後に姫路藩の初代藩主になります。輝政の役目は、大坂城にいた豊臣氏をいまだ支持するかもしれない西国大名を監視することでした。彼は1601年から1609年の間に城の大改修を行います。天守は、５層の大天守と３基の小天守に置き換えられました。これらは、渡櫓によりつながっていて「連立式」天守と呼ばれます。輝政は姫山の上にある秀吉の城の構造を引き継ぎつつも、多くの櫓、門、練塀、石垣を加えたのです。結果的に城は、小さな曲輪を複雑に組み合わせたものとなりました。例えば、今でも観光客は天守にたどり着くまで１０以上もの門を通らなければなりません。 After Hideyoshi died, Ieyasu Tokugawa got the power instead of the Toyotomi Clan in 1600. Ieyasu transferred his son-in law, Terumasa Ikeda, from Yoshida Castle to Himeji Castle. Terumasa later became the founder of the Himeji Domain. Terumasa’s role was to monitor the lords in western Japan, who might still support the Toyotomi Clan at Osaka Castle. He did major renovations to the castle between 1601 and 1609. The Main Tower was replaced with the five-layer Large Main Tower and three Small Main Towers. They are connected by the Roofed Passage Turrets, which are called Connected Type or “Renritsu-shiki”. Terumasa followed Hideyoshi’s structure of the castle on Himeyama mountain, but he added lots of turrets, gates, plaster walls, and stone walls. As a result, the center of the castle became very complex with combined small enclosures. For example, visitors must pass through as many as over 10 gates to reach the Main Tower.
池田輝政肖像画、鳥取県立美術館蔵～The Portrait of Terumasa Ikeda, owned by Tottori prefectural art museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)連立式天守：大天守(A)、小天守(B,C,D)、渡櫓(E)、櫓門(F)～Connected Type :Large Main Tower(A), Small Main Tower(B,C,D), Roofed Passage Turrets(E), Turret Gate(F)(licensed by Mukai via Wikimedia Commons)
更には、城は姫山の西にある鷺山を取り込んで拡大しました。鷺山の上には西の丸が築かれました。三の丸が姫山の南の平地に築かれました。城の水堀は、城の裏側から渦巻き状に広がっていました。一周目は、姫山の上にある城の中心部と、二の丸と三の丸を囲んでいて、内堀と呼ばれました。二周目は中堀と呼ばれ、武士の屋敷を含む区域を囲んでいました。外堀は、中堀の途中から分かれ出て、南方と東方にあった城下町までも囲んでいました。輝政は、現在私たちが見ているものと、ほとんど近い所まで城を築き上げました。 In addition, the castle was extended to take in the Sagiyama mountain, the west of Himeyama. The Nishinomaru or the Western Enclosure was built on the Sayima mountain. The Sannomaru or the Third Enclosure was built on the plain area to the south of Himeyama. The water moats of the castle started from the back and spread like swirling. The first turn surrounded the center of the castle on Himeyama, Nishinomaru, and Sannnomaru, which was called the Inner Moat. The second turn called the Middle Moat surrounded the area including warriors’ houses. The Outer Moat separated from the halfway of the Middle Moat and even surrounded the castle town on the south and east directions. Terumasa built the castle nearly like what we see now.
輝政は残念ながら1613年に亡くなってしまいます。徳川幕府は城主を、幕府の重臣である本多忠政に変えました。忠政は城の造営を続け、西の丸を改築したり、運河を掘ったりしました。西の丸は更に広大となり、多くの兵士を収容できるようになりました。よって、中心部の曲輪とは異なる広々とした外観です。。1615年に豊臣氏は幕府により倒されましたが、幕府は姫路城主に西国大名の監視を担わせ続けました。そのため、有能な人材を宛がうため、何度も城主は交替させられます。１８世紀の中頃からは、酒井氏が幕末まで城を統治しました。恐らくは社会が安定したからでしょう。城の創建以来、一度もここで戦が起こらなかったため、度々「不戦の城」とも呼ばれています。 After Terumasa unfortunately died in 1613, the Tokugawa Shogunate changed the lord of the castle to Tadamasa Honda, a senior vassal of the Shogunate. Tadamasa continued work on the castle such as improving the Nishinomaru and developing a canal. Nishinomaru became more spacious which could accommodate large troops, so it looks different from other central enclosures. Though the Toyotomi Clan had been defeated by the Shogunate in 1615, it still made the lord of Himeji Castle stay to monitor the lords in western Japan. For this reason, the lord of the castle was replaced by a capable person several times by the Shogunate. From the middle 18th century, the Sakai Clan continued to govern the castle until the end of the Edo Period. Perhaps it could be because the society became stable. No battles have occurred at the castle since it was built, so it is sometimes called “an anti-war castle”.
本多忠政肖像画～The portrait of Tadamasa Honda (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)明治初期の姫路城の外観～The appearance of Himeji Castle in the first Meiji Era (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
しかしながら、幕末になってこの城は初めての危機を迎えます。1868年に岡山藩などの他藩を含む新政府軍により包囲されたのです。これは酒井氏が幕府の要職についていたためです。城にいた武士たちは降伏を申し出ましたが、攻撃側は受け入れず砲撃を始めました。備前門という門の瓦が幾枚か破損しましたが、それだけでした。単なるパフォーマンスだったのかもしれません。その後城の武士たちは降伏し、城を新政府に引き渡しました。 However, at the end of the Edo Period, the castle faced its first crisis. The New Government Army including other domains, such as Okayama, surrounded the castle in 1868. This is because the Sakai Clan was in charge of an important position for the Shogunate. The warriors in the castle had sworn allegiance, but the attackers didn’t accept it and opened fire. Some tiles of a gate called Bizen-mon were destroyed, but that was all. It may have been like a performance. The warriors in the castle later surrendered and handed over control of the castle to the New Government.
備前門～The Bizen-mon Gate (licensed by Corpse Reviver via Wikimedia Commons)
その後～Later History
明治維新後、姫路城の一部は日本陸軍によって使用されました。三の丸周辺の建物は撤去されました。天守を含む他の建物も売られたが、買主は撤去する費用が高すぎたために権利を放棄したとも言われています。真相は不明です。もし本当なら、城にとって第２の危機でした。 After the Meiji Restoration, part of Himeji Castle was used for the Japanese Army. Some buildings around Sannomaru were demolished. It is said that other buildings including the Main Tower were also sold, but the buyer waived the right, because it was too expensive for him to demolish them. This story is unclear. If true, it was the second crisis of the castle.
1936年時点の姫路城の写真～The photo of Himeji Castle in 1936 (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
1878年、中村重遠大佐が姫路城と名古屋城を保存することを陸軍に提案しました。その提案は政府によって認められ、城を維持するための予算が組まれました。これは、城が文化遺産として認められた最初の事例であり、画期的なことでした。1910年に明治の大修理が行われました。実は、天守がその自重により少しずつ傾いてきていたのです。 In 1878, a military officer, Shigeto Nakamura suggested the need to preserve Himeji and Nagoya Castles to the Japanese Army. It was allowed by the government who created a budget to maintain the castles. This is the epoch-making event that castles were considered as cultural properties for the first time. The Meiji Great Repairs was done in 1910. In fact, the Main Tower was leaning little by little due to its own weight, before it was repaired.
城内にある中村重遠の顕彰碑～The monument of Shigeto Nakamura in the castle (licensed by Corpse Reviver via Wikimedia Commons)
第二次世界大戦中の1945年、姫路空襲の時に最後の危機が城に迫りました。姫路市の市街地はほとんど焼き尽くされましたが、城は無事でした。焼夷弾が天守に飛び込んできたのですが、幸い不発だったのです。残念ながら、同じく政府により維持されてきた名古屋城は、爆撃により燃えてしまいました。終戦直後、姫路の人たちは無傷であった姫路城に大変勇気づけられたといいます。現在、２回の大修理（昭和と平成）の後、姫路城は往時のような輝きを取り戻しています。城のために大変な努力をした人々と幸運に感謝しなければならないでしょう。 The last crisis came to the castle when the Himeji Air Raid happened in 1945 during World War II. The town area of Himeji City was mostly burned, but the castle wasn’t affected. A firebomb was dropped into the Main Tower, luckily it didn’t explode. Unfortunately, the Nagoya Castle, which was also being maintained by the government was burned down by bombs. People in Himeji were very encouraged by the fact that Himeji Castle was still intact just after the war. Today, after two more great repairs (Showa and Heisei), Himeji Castle gets the brilliance back like its peak time. I think we have to be thankful for the great effort of the people at the castle and for good fortune.
空襲に備え黒い網をかけられた大天守～The Large Main Tower covered by the black screen to prevent from an air raid (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
宮殿のような優雅な城跡です。
Elegant castle ruins looking like a palace
立地と歴史～Location and History
繁栄する琉球とグスク～Prospering Ryukyu and Gusuku
１４、１５世紀ころ、琉球諸島（現在の沖縄諸島）は貿易によって栄えました。当時、中国の明王朝は海外の国との民間貿易を禁じていました。その代わりに、日本（琉球とは違う国とみなされていました）、朝鮮、東南アジア諸国は、琉球を通して中国と交易していました。中国は、琉球が頻繁に朝貢することと、諸国と貿易することを認めたからです。結果的に、琉球には「按司」と呼ばれた有力な豪族が多く現れ、中国や他国と貿易を行い、力をつけていきました。 Around the 14th and 15th centuries, the Ryukyu Islands (what is now Okinawa Islands) prospered thanks to trading. At that time, the Ming Dynasty that governed China banned private trading with foreign countries. Instead, countries like Japan (considered different from Ryukyu), Korea, and South East Asians traded with China through Ryukyu, because China allowed Ryukyu to bring a tribute frequently as well as to trade with them. As a result, many powerful clans in Ryukyu called “Aji” traded with China and other countries, and had great power.
琉球王国の進貢船、沖縄県立博物館・美術館～A tribute ship from the Ryukyu Kingdom, Okinawa Prefectural Museum and Art Museum collection（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
彼らは沖縄諸島一帯に、３００以上の大規模な要塞を築き「グスク」と呼ばれました。グスクは城のようでもありましたが、館や礼拝所としても使われたようです。中城城はもっとも大きなグスクの一つであり、グスク跡としてももっともよく保存されているものの一つです。 They built over 300 large-scale fortresses called “Gusuku” around the Ryukyu Islands. They looked like a castles, but they could also be used as a hall or shrine. Nakagusuku Castle was one of the largest Gusuku, and is one of the best preserved Gusuku ruins.
城の位置～The location of the castle
中城城の完成～The completion of Nakagusuku Castle
中城城は最初１４世紀中頃に先中城按司によって築かれました。城は、沖縄本島にある標高１６０ｍの丘の上にあり、東側は天然の要害として高い崖となっていました。また、わずか２ｋｍのところに、当時は貿易港であった八木港がありました。先中城按司は、一の郭、二の郭、南の郭、西の郭といった主要な曲輪を作りました。１５世紀になって琉球王国の重臣であった護佐丸が三の郭、北の郭を加えて城を完成させました。 It is said that Nakagusuku Castle was first built in the mid 14th century by Sachi-Nakagusuku Aji clan. The castle was located on a 160m high hill on Okinawa Island with a high cliff in on the east as natural barrier. It was also only 2 km away from the Yagi Port which was once a trade port. Sachi-Nakagusuku Aji clan built the main parts of the castle, such as the First Enclosure or Ichinokaku ,the Second Enclosure or Ninokaku, the South Enclosure or Minaminokaku, and the West Enclosure or Nishinokaku. In the 15th century, a senior vassal of the Ryukyu Kingdom, Gosamaru completed the castle, adding the Third Enclosure or Sannokaku, and The North Enclosure or Kitanokaku.
現地にある城跡の模型～The miniature model of the castle ruins at the site
護佐丸の乱～Gosamaru Rebellion
護佐丸は、王国に反抗していた勝連城の有力な按司である阿麻和利から王国を守るため、中城城に滞在していました。ところが、護佐丸は阿麻和利によって王国への反逆者として仕立てられてしまいます。護佐丸はそれを知って嘆き悲しみ自ら命を絶ってしまったのです。これは阿麻和利が王国や護佐丸をだましたのだと言われていますが、真相は不明です。その後、阿麻和利も王国により討たれてしまったからです。 Gosamaru stayed at the castle to protect the Ryukyu Kingdom from another powerful Aji called Amawari at Katsuren Castle who was against the Kingdom. However, Gosamaru was considered as a rebel against the Kingdom by Amawari. Gosamaru felt very sad about it, and killed himself. It is said that Amawari deceived the Kingdom and Gosamaru, but the details are uncertain, as Amawari was also defeated by the Kingdom later.
城周辺の地図～The map around the castle
その後、この城は王国の王子の所有となりました。江戸時代に王国が日本の薩摩藩の支配下にあった間は、城は番所として使われていました。 After that, the castle was owned by the Prince of the Kingdom. During the Edo Period, when the Kingdom was under the Satsuma Feudal Domain of Japan, the castle was used as a guardhouse.
中城城跡～The ruins of Nakagusuku Castle
特徴～Features
城周辺の航空写真～The aerial photo of around the castle
城跡に入る～Entering the Castle Ruins
現在、中城城跡は今でもとてもよい場所にあると言えます。城跡は島が狭くなっている部分の高い場所にあるので、東は太平洋の、西は東シナ海の素晴らしい景色を見渡すことができます。この城の城主は、敵味方の動きを容易につかめたことでしょう。 Now, the ruins of Nakagusuku Castle still have a very good location. They are located on a high point where the island is narrow, so you can have a great view of the Pacific Ocean on the east and the East China Sea on the west. That meant that a lord of the castle was able to see the movement of his friends and enemies.
城跡から見た太平洋～A view of the Pacific Ocean from the ruins
観光客が城跡の入口に入ると、カートで城の正門の近くまで乗せていってもらえます。そこからその門まで登っていきますが、それは西の郭の入口でもあります。この郭は、一の郭と南の郭に隣り合っています。一の郭の素晴らしい高石垣が見えることでしょう。 When visitors enter the entrance of the ruins, they are driven near the front gate of the castle by a cart. You can walk up to the gate which is also the entrance of the West Enclosure. The enclosure is next to the First Enclosure and South Enclosure. You can also see the great high stone walls of First Enclosure.
正門～The front gate一の郭の高石垣～The stone walls of the First Enclosure
更に南の郭の入口に進みます。この郭は城で最も古い部分と考えられています。その石垣が部分的に自然の石灰岩により積まれていて、「野面積み」と呼ばれる原始的な方式によるからです。この郭には３箇所の拝所跡があり、例えばその一つでは雨乞いを祈願していました。 You can go further to the entrance of South Enclosure. The enclosure is thought to be the oldest part, because its stone walls were partly piled with natural lime stones, a primitive method called “Nozura-zumi”. There are three places for worship in ruins in the enclosure, such as one where you could pray for rain.
南の郭へ進みます～Going to the South Enclosure南の郭の入口、写真の右上部分は野面積みです～The entrance of the South Enclosure, the upper right portion in this picture is built with “Nozura-zumi”雨乞イノ御嶽（拝所）～The place of praying for rain
素晴らしい石垣と景色～Wonderful Stone Walls and Views
南の郭から、アーチ型の門を通って一の郭に進みます。この門は護佐丸がこの城を拡張したときに作ったと言われています。一の郭は、この城の中心であり、最も大きい郭です。ここには正殿がありました。ここの石垣は、四角く加工した石灰岩により築かれており、「布積み」と呼ばれます。この方式は南の郭のものより進歩しており、このため一の郭は南の郭より後に作られたようです。また、石垣の上には展望台があり、太平洋の絶景を見渡すことができます。二の郭がまた隣りにあります。その郭の石垣の輪郭はとても美しいです。 From the South Enclosure, you can go to the First Enclosure through the arch entrance gate. It is said that Gosamaru had this arch shaped when he improved the castle. The First Enclosure is the main and largest enclosure of the castle. There was the main hall in it. Its stone walls were built with processed square lime stones, a method called “Nuno-zumi”. The method is more developed than the South Enclosure’s, so the First Enclosure seemed to have been built after the South Enclosure. There is also the observation deck on the stone walls where you can have a great view of the Pacific Ocean. The Second Enclosure is the next one. The shape of this enclosure’s stone walls is very beautiful.
一の郭へのアーチ門、石垣は布積み～The arch entrance gate to the First Enclosure, its stone walls are built with “Nuno-zumi”正殿跡～The ruins of the Main Hall一の郭から見た太平洋～The Pacific Ocean from the First Enclosure二の郭の石垣～The stone walls of the Second Enclosure
護佐丸の貢献～Work of Gosamaru
護佐丸が後から追加した北の郭に行くには、一旦西の郭に戻る必要があります。北の郭には「ウフガー」と呼ばれる井戸の跡があります。それまでは城の内部には井戸がなかったので、これも護佐丸により築かれました。 You need to go back to the West Enclosure to go to the North Enclosure which was added by Gosamaru later. The North enclosure has the ruins of a well called “Ufugaa”. The well was also built by him, as the castle didn’t have no well inside.
北の郭にある井戸～The well at the North Enclosure
最後の三の郭には北の郭から向かいます。この郭は最も新しい郭で、アーチ型の裏門があり、護佐丸が築きました。北の郭と三の郭の石垣は、「相方積み」といわれる方式で作られています。この方式は加工した石灰岩をランダムに、しかし強固に積んでいくもので、この城では最も進化した複雑なものです。それでこれらの郭が最新とわかるのです。 You can walk from the North Enclosure to the Third Enclosure, the last one. The enclosure is also the newest one with the arch shaped back gate that Gosamaru built. The North and Third Enclosures have stone walls built in the method called “Aikata-zumi”. This method refers to piling randomly processed lime stones solidly. It is the most advanced and complex way in the castle, so we can see these enclosures are the newest.
三の郭～The Third Enclosure裏門～The back gate相方積みで積まれた三の郭の石垣～The stone walls of the Third Enclosure built with “Aikata-zumi”
その後～Later History
明治維新後、日本政府により琉球王国は廃止され、日本の一つの県になりました。城は中城村の役場として使われていました。第二次世界大戦で焼けてしまうまでは何らかの建物が残っていたようです。更には、日本陸軍が城に駐在し、陣地を作り始めました。ところが、その後すぐ命令により他に移っていきました。そのために石垣や土台など城の遺跡が現在までよく保存され残っているのです。この遺跡は２０００年に琉球王国のグスク及び関連遺産群として世界遺産に登録されています。 After the Meiji Restoration, the Ryukyu Kingdom was abolished, as it was taken in as one of Japan’s prefectures by the Japanese Government. The castle was used as the village office of Nakagusuku Village. Some buildings seemed to remain until they were burned during World War II. In addition, the Japanese Army once stayed at the castle and started to build a position. However, they were ordered to moved to another soon after. That’s why the ruins of castle (stone walls, foundation etc) remain well preserved until today. They have been on the World Heritage List as Gusuku Sites and Related Properties of the Kingdom of Ryukyu since 2000.
石垣の下の日本軍が掘った壕～The shelter that the Japanese Army dug under the stone walls
私の感想～My Impression
日本の本土では、石垣造りの城が一般化するのは１６世紀のことです。戦での鉄砲の使用への対応と、建築技術の向上が要因であると言われています。沖縄では、石垣造りの城が本土より２世紀も早く出現しました。その理由の一つは、石灰岩が加工しやすいこともあったでしょう。もちろん戦いのための城であるからには、より強力な城にする必要もありました。更にもう一つの理由は、グスクの城主たちは彼らの権威や信仰を表したかったのだと思います。それでこんなにも美しく見えるのでしょう。 In Japan mainland, castles with stone walls became popular in the 16th century. It is said that the needs for wars using guns and developing construction technology caused that change. In Okinawa Island, castles with stone walls appeared two centuries earlier than on the mainland. One of the reasons for that was that lime stones were easier to process. Of course, the castles were used for a battle. Stronger castles were another reason. I think that another reasons was the lords of the “Gusuku” castles wanted to show their authority and faith, so that’s why they look very beautiful.
二の郭～The Second Enclosure
ここに行くには～How to get There
ここに行くには、車を使うことをお勧めします。 那覇空港から： 車の場合、那覇空港自動車道に名嘉地ＩＣから入り、西原ＪＣＴで沖縄自動車道に合流し、北中城ＩＣで降りてください。城跡はそこから５ｋｍ以内で、駐車場もあります。 I recommend you to visit it by car. From the Naha Airport: By car, enter Naha Airport Expressway at the Nakachi IC, join Okinawa Expressway at the Nishihara JCT, and get off the expressway at Kita-Nakagusuku IC. The ruins are within 5 km from the IC, and offers a parking lot.
