The castle had a very short life but rich history.
Location and History
Nobunaga’s Foothold
Komakiyama Castle was located on an 86m high mountain called Komakiyama, on Nobi Plain in Owari Province, what is now the western part of Aichi Prefecture. The mountain had no castle until Nobunaga Oda built a castle on it in 1563. The reason for it was that he wanted to move his home base from Kiyosu Castle in now Nagoya City to this castle. He aimed to capture Inabayama Castle, what is now Gifu City, which the Saito Clan owned at that time. Komakiyama was much closer to Inabayama than Kiyosu. However, it was very rare for warlords and their retainers to move their home to another. They always continued to live in places where their ancestors had been.
The location of the castle
The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Three Distinct Features
Komakiyama Castle by Nobunaga had three distinct features. First, the Main Enclosure or Honmaru on the top was surrounded by stone walls made using huge stones. Some of the stones were carried from another mountain. At that time, building stone walls for castles was rare, and there was likely no other case like Komakiyama. It was one of the earliest examples of using stone walls as a show of authority.
The remaining stone walls on the mountain
Secondly, the castle had two residences for the lord, one was on the mountain, the other was at the foot. Other warlords who had a mountain castle also often had two residences. They usually lived in the one on the foot and used the one on the mountain when a battle happened. However, in the case of Nobunaga, he seemed to live in his residence on the mountain. He might have considered the mountain as a special place. Another similar example can be seen in Gifu Castle, his next home base.
The excavation site on the mountain
Lastly, the Main Route went straight from the foot to the mid-slope of the mountain like Azuchi Castle, his last home base. It was abnormal for other warlords to have such a route on the mountain, because it was not defensive. The reason is still unsure, but it must have depended on Nobunaga’s idea. In addition, its castle town was built in an advanced way in an area where nothing existed prior. The town was divided orderly to accommodate warriors, merchants, and craftsmen separately. Such a way to develop castle town is commonly seen in those in the next century.
The straight Main Route from the footThe miniature model of the castle town distribution at the site
Ieyasu’s Stronghold
The life of the castle by Nobunaga was just four years, as he was successful in capturing Inabayama Castle in 1567. He moved his home base again to Inabayama castle and renamed it Gifu Castle. Komakiyama Castle was abandoned right away. In 1584, the castle was reused by Ieyasu Tokugawa when he fought with the ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi in the Battle of Komaki and Nagakute. Ieyasu reinforced earthen walls and dry moats surrounding the castle to establish a stronghold there against Hideyoshi at Inuyama Castle. This battle resulted in a dead heat and Ieyasu showed his great presence towards the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate later.
The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The earthen walls built by Ieyasu
吉田城は、豊川と朝倉川の合流点のすぐ隣に位置しており、現在は愛知県豊橋市に属します。この城はまた、陸上と水上交通の結節点にも当たり、戦略的な位置にありました。そのため、戦国時代には、今川、徳川といった戦国大名がこの城を巡って戦いました。そして、最終的には徳川氏がこの城を制し、所有しました。徳川時代の城の構造は不明ですが、歴史家は、恐らく土造りの城だったであろうと推測しています。 Yoshida Castle is located beside the meeting point of Toyokawa and Asakura-gawa Rivers in what is now Toyohashi City, Aichi Pref. Its location was also strategic for transportation in ground and water, so Warlords such as the Imagawa and Tokugawa clans battled each other over this castle during the Sengoku or Warring States Period. It was finally conquered and owned by Tokugawa for many years. Though the structure of the castle in the Tokugawa’s Era was not clear, historians speculate the foundation of the caste was all made of earth.
城の位置～The location of the castle
城から見た豊川～A view of Toyokawa River from the castle
池田輝政が城を拡張～Terumasa Ikeda improved the castle
１５９０年、天下人の豊臣秀吉は、徳川に関東地方に移るよう命じ、池田輝政をこの城の主に据えました。輝政は彼の１０年間の統治期間に、城を増強し、櫓や石垣を築きます。その後は、徳川幕府の譜代大名が江戸時代の間、この城を統治し、維持していました。最盛期には、川を背にして本丸、二の丸、三の丸といった曲輪が外側に向かって配置され、空堀によって隔てられていました。更には、外郭として土塁が周りを囲んでおり、その外周は約４ｋｍありました。 In 1590, the ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi ordered Tokugawa to move to the Kanto Region, and placed Terumasa Ikeda as the lord of the castle. Terumasa improved the castle, building turrets and stone walls over a period of ten years. After that, hereditary feudal lords under the Tokugawa Shogunate governed and maintained the castle in the Edo Period. At its peak, with the back of the rivers, it had the Honmaru, Ninomaru, Sannnomaru enclosures towards the outside, divided by deep moats. It also had earthen walls as the outline whose perimeter was about 4 km.
池田輝政肖像画、鳥取県立美術館蔵～The Portrait of Terumasa Ikeda, owned by Tottori prefectural art museum（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）吉田藩士屋敷図～The map of Yoshida feudal domain houses（現地説明板より）
特徴～Features
未完成の城？～Incomplete castle?
吉田城は時折、未完成の城と言われます。その理由の一つはこの城には天守がないこと、そして部分的にしか石垣に覆われていないこと、これらが東海地方の他の主要な城である名古屋、岡崎、浜松、掛川、駿府と比べられているのでしょう。もう一つの理由が池田輝政にあります。彼は、吉田を出てから世界遺産である姫路城を完成させます。彼が吉田にもっと居てくれたなら、吉田城を姫路城のような城にしてくれたのではないかというものです。 Yoshida Castle is sometimes called an incomplete castle, and one reason is because it had no Main Tower or Tenshu, and was just partly covered with stone walls, compared to other major castles in Tokai Region like Nagoya, Okazaki, Hamamatsu, Kakegawa, and Sunpu. Another reason is due to Terumasa. He completed Himeji Castle, a World Heritage Site, after he moved from Yoshida. Some people guess he might have completed Yoshida Castle like Himeji if he had spent more time in Yoshida.
本丸の周辺、部分的に石垣が使われている～The around Honmaru , partly covered by stone walls世界遺産、姫路城～Himeji Castle, a World Heritage Site
鉄櫓が天守か？～Was Kurogane Turret the Main Tower?
歴史家の内には、記録がないだけで吉田城には天守はあったはずだという人もいます。他には、鉄櫓と呼ばれるこの城の三階櫓が天守だったのだという人もいます。この櫓は、他の城のいくつかの天守より大きいサイズだったこと、（鉄櫓にあった）鉄が使われる門は通常は天守のためのものだったことが根拠です。石垣の件に関しては、郷土史家によれば、もともとこの城は土でできており、そのため、輝政は必要と思う場所にのみ石垣を築いたのだとのことです。石垣を築くには不適当な箇所がたくさんあり、事実輝政の後の大名たちは、洪水や地震の後に、大変な労力でもって石垣を修復していました。 Some historians argue that the castle must have had a Tenshu despite no records remaining. Others say that a three-story turret in the castle, called “Kurogane” Turret, was the Tenshu, as the turret was larger than other Tenshu in some castles and the gate using iron (called Kurogane) was usually used for Tenshu. In the matter of stone walls, local historians explain that the castle had basically been made of earth. Because of it, Terumasa built his stone walls on where he needed them. There were many places which were not suitable for building stone walls. Actually, the lords of the castle following Terumasa all put great efforts to repair the stone walls after floods and earthquakes
吉田城の古写真～An old picture of Yoshida Castle（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）多くの石垣が修復されています～A lot of stone wall were repaired
城跡は豊橋公園に～Ruins become Toyohashi Park
城周辺の航空写真～The aerial photo of around the castle
現在城跡は、大部分が三の丸の内側になりますが、豊橋公園として使われています。史跡として楽しめるのは、主に本丸と川沿いのエリアです。輝政が築いたオリジナルの石垣の上に、１９５４年に鉄櫓が復興再建されました。もともとの鉄櫓は、現在のものよりも大きかったと言われています。 Now, the ruins of the castle, almost the inside of Sannnomaru, are used as Toyohashi Park. You can mainly enjoy the Honmaru area and the riverside as historical spots. There is the reconstructed Kurogane Turret built in 1954 on the original stone walls base by Terumasa. The original turret was said to be larger than the current one.
本丸の入口～The entrance of Honmaru area再建された鉄櫓～The reconstructed Kurogane Turret
本丸の内側にある他の石垣は、輝政の後に、将軍を迎えるための御殿を作ったときに築かれました。また、川沿いにもたくさんの石垣を見ることができますが、これらは更に後の時代になって置き換えられたものです。この辺りには水門跡もあります。他の公園の敷地は、文化芸術施設のために使われています。そこでも、土塁、石垣、空堀の類を見ることができるかもしれません。 Other stone walls inside Honmaru were built when the main hall for Shogun was built after Terumasa. You can also see lots of stone walls along the riverside which were replaced much later. There are also the ruins of the water gate there. The rest of the park is used for cultural and athletic facilities. You may even find the ruin such as earthen walls, stone walls, and dry moats there.
本丸の内側～The inside of Honmaru川沿いの遊歩道～The promenade along the riverside水門跡～The ruins of the water gate
その後～Later History
明治維新後、吉田城は廃城となり、城の全ての建物は撤去されました。そして、第二次世界大戦まで日本軍によって使われていました。 After the Meiji Restoration, Yoshida Castle was abolished and all of the buildings were demolished. The ruins were used by the Japanese Army until World War II.
歩兵第１１８連隊の記念碑～The monument of the The 118th infantry regiment
私の感想～My Impression
私は、全ての城は未完成だと思うのです。全ての城はかつては戦い、統治そして権威付けのために使われてきて、芸術のためではありません。そして状況が変われば、それに応じて改造されてきたのです。現在でさえ、城や城跡は常に変わり続けており、それが魅力なのです。ついでながら、もし輝政がもう何年か吉田に留まっていたとしても、吉田城は姫路城とは異なっていたでしょう。立地や状況が違っていたからです。 I think all the castles were never completed. They all had been used for battles, governance and authority, not for art. They had to be modified to deal with a different situations. Even now, castles and ruins are always changing, and that is what is attracting us. In addition, even if Terumasa stayed in Yoshida for more years, Yoshida Castle would have been different from Himeji. It would have depended on its location and situation.
本丸の空堀、右側は石垣、左側は土塁～The dry moat at Honmaru, the right side is stone walls, the left side is earthen walls
ここに行くには～How to get There
車の場合：東名自動車道の豊橋ＩＣから約２０分かかります。公園の中に駐車場があります。 電車の場合は、豊橋駅前にある駅前停留所から市電の赤岩口、運動公園前または競輪場前行きに乗り、市役所前か豊橋公園前停留所で降りてください。 東京または大阪から豊橋駅まで：新幹線に乗ってください。 If you want to go there by car: It takes about 20 minutes from the Toyohashi IC on Tomei Expressway. There is a parking lot in the park. When using train, take the tram for Akaiwaguchi, Undokoen-mae or Keirinjo-mae at the Eki-mae stop in front of Toyohashi Station, and take off the Shiyakusho-mae or Toyohashikoen-mae stop. From Tokyo or Osaka to Toyohashi Station: Take the Shinkansen super express.
この城には、様々な魅力があります。
This castle attracts you in several perspectives.
立地と歴史～Location and History
犬山城は、その古風な天守や、眺望がよく知られています。でもこの城にはもっと知られるべき見どころがあるのです。 Inuyama Castle is known for its old Main Tower or “Tenshu” and their landscape. But the castle has more attractions you can find.
犬山城の遠景～A distant view of Inuyama Castle（taken by nagabutinana from photoAC）
国境に立地～It is located around the boder of provices
この城は最初は１５３７年に地方領主の織田信安により築かれたと言われています。木曽川の畔、４０ｍの高さの丘の上にあります。この地点は尾張国（現在の愛知県の一部）の端に当たり、尾張国と美濃国（現在の岐阜県の一部）の国境のすぐ近くでした。また、水上交通の要所でもありました。 It is said that the castle was first built in 1537 by a local clan, Nobuyasu Oda. It was located at the top of a 40m height hill beside Kisogawa River. The spot was on the edge of Owari Province ( now part of Aichi Pref.), right next to the border between Owari and Mino Province ( now part of Gifu Pref.), and it was also important for water transportation.
城の位置と尾張国の範囲～The location of the castle and the range of Owari Province
有力戦国大名の標的に～Great warlords targets it
結果として、戦国時代には多くの有力な戦国大名がこの城を手に入れようとしました。最初は、織田信長が美濃攻略の足掛かりとしてこの城を得ました。次には、豊臣秀吉が１５８４年の徳川家康との小牧長久手の戦いのときに、この城に本陣を構えました。 As a result, many great warlords aimed to capture the castle in the Warring States or “Sengoku” Period. First, Nobunaga Oda got the castle as the foothold before he invaded Mino. Secondly, Hideyoshi Toyotomi used the castle as his stronghold when he fought with Ieyasu Tokugawa in the Battle of Komaki and Nagakute in 1584.
織田信長肖像画、狩野宗秀作、長興寺蔵、１６世紀後半～The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）豊臣秀吉肖像画、加納光信筆、高台寺蔵～The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, ownd by Kodaiji Temple（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
成瀬氏が城と町を支配～Naruse clan governs the castle and town
最終的には、徳川幕府が確立すると、幕府は成瀬正成を徳川の親藩である尾張藩の付家老として、この城に据えました。成瀬氏は大名ではありませんでした。それでも、江戸時代の間中例外として、大名のように犬山城と城下の支配を許されたのです。 Lastly, after the Tokugawa Shogunate was established, it placed Masanari Naruse at the castle as the Attendant Chief Retainer for Tokugawa’s relative Owari Domain. The Naruse clan was not a lord. However, they were allowed to govern Inuyama Castle and the castle town like a lord all through Edo Period as an exception.
成瀬正成肖像画、白林寺所蔵、江戸時代～The portrait of Masanari Naruse, owned by Hakurinji Temple, in the Edo Period（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）犬山城古図、犬山市城とまちミュージアム蔵、江戸時代～The Old Map of Inuyama Castle, owned by Inuyama Cultural Assets Museum, in the Edo Period（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
特徴～Features
城周辺の地図～The map around the castle
三方は急崖～Steep cliffs in three directions
現在、天守だけが現存していますが、城がどんなだったかは今でも見て取ることができます。城は北の方角の背後に木曽川があり、自然の要害になっています。城がある丘は三方向（北、東、西）が急崖であり、このようなしつらえはよく「後ろ堅固」と呼ばれます。更には、この崖はより垂直になるよう削られていて、このことを「切岸」といいます。その上、この辺りは深い空堀に囲まれていました。 Now, only the Tenshu remains, but we can still see how the castle was. The castle has a natural hazard as Kisogawa River in the back of the north side. The hill of the castle also has steep cliffs in three directions ( north, east and west). Such a condition is often called “back secure” or “Ushiro-Kengo”. In addition, the cliffs are cut more vertically which is called “Kirigishi”. Moreover, the area was surrounded by a deep dry moat.
北側の急崖～The steep cliff in the north side
南方に大手道～Main Route in the south
城は、南の方角に「大手道」と呼ばれる一本道でのみ開かれていました。今はその道に沿って簡単に城の中心と天守に行くことができますが、過去においては、５つの門によって厳重に守られていました。 The castle is open to only one route in the south called the Main Route or “Ote-michi”. It is easy to go to the center of the castle and Tenshu through the route now, but it was heavily guarded by five gates in the past.
大手道～The Main Route
門の間にまっすぐな部分がありますが、ここもまた高い壁と櫓がある曲輪に挟まれていました。最後の門である「鉄門」は再建されています。 The straight part of the route between the gates was also sandwiched by enclosures with high walls and turrets. The last gate called “Kurogane-mon” has been reconstructed.
天守は国宝で、３層４階＋地下２階となっています。初期の天守の形式である望楼型で、日本の現存天守では最古であるかもしれません。但し事はそう単純ではなくて、歴史家や建築家は天守は３段階で作られたと言っています。最初は２層の櫓として作られました。現存の１階と２階は古い工具と方法で作られています。 The Tenshu is a National Treasure. It has three layers and four levels with two extra basements. It shows the first Tenshu style called lookout tower type, and may be the oldest remaining Tenshu in Japan. But it is not that simple. Historians and architects say that Tenshu was built in three steps. The first step built a two story turret, as the remaining first and second floors are made with older tools and in practice.
犬山城天守～The Tenshu of Inuyama Castle２階の内部～The interior of the second floor
３階と４階は塔のように外を見渡す用途で、新しい工法を使い、２段階目に付け加えられました。最後の段階で成瀬氏が、天守に唐破風や高欄を付けたりして装飾したのです。問題は、いつ最初の建築がなされたかです。もしそれが城の創建と同じ時期であれば、間違いなく最古の天守と言えるでしょう。将来明らかになるかもしれません。 The third and forth floors were added to look outside like a tower, using newer methods in the second step. Lastly the Naruse clan decorated Tenshu by adding a Chinese style gable called “Kara-Hafu” and a veranda at the top floor in the last step. The question is when the first step was done. If it is the same age as the castle itself, it is definitely the oldest Tenshu. It may be proven in the future.
天守の上層部分～The upper layer of the Tenshu（taken by マッハGGG from photoAC）
最上階が開放的なので、木曽川とその周辺の素晴らしい景色が眺めることができます。手摺を含む高欄は残っているそのままです。城主の大名と全く同じ体験ができるわけです。 You can see a great view of Kisogawa River and the area around from the open top floor. The veranda including its handrail is original. We can enjoy the exact same experience as the lords who owned the castle.
天守からの木曽川の眺め～A view of Kiso-gawa River from Tenshu元来からの高欄の手摺～The original handrail of the veranda（taken by ACJOE from photoAC）
その後～Later History
明治維新後、犬山城は廃城となり、天守を除く全ての建物は撤去されました。１８９１年、濃尾地震により天守が半ば倒壊しました。その後、以前の領主だった成瀬氏が、彼ら自身で復旧することを条件に再び城を保有しました。犬山城は最近まで私有されていたのです。その間、天守は国宝に指定されました。２００８年、犬山城白帝文庫という法人が設立され、将来への保存のため、城を保有することになりました。それ以来、調査研究が続けられています。 After the Meiji Restoration, Inuyama Castle was abandoned and all its buildings were demolished excluding the Tenshu. In 1891, the Tenshu collapsed partly due to the Nobi Earthquake. After that, the former lord, the Naruse clan owned the castle again on the condition that they would restore it. Inuyama Castle had been privately owned until recently. Meanwhile, it was designated as a National Treasure. Such a case was very rare. In 2008, a corporation called Inuyama-jo Hakutei-bunko was established and it has owned the castle to preserve it in the future. Since then, investigations and developments have been done.
２０１９年修繕中の天守～Tenshu under repairing in 2019
私の感想～My Impression
元々、犬山城は戦いのために築かれました。江戸時代には美しい眺望でも知られるようになりました。成瀬氏は城下町も発展させました。その雰囲気は今に残ります。城に行く途中で通って行けます。この城は今や重要な歴史遺産になりました。この城のいろんな側面を見ていただきたいと思います。 Originally, Inuyama Castle was built just for battle. It also became a beautiful landscape in the Edo Period. The Naruse clan developed the castle town, too. Its atmosphere remains even now. You can enjoy it on the way to the castle. The castle is now becoming more important for cultural heritage. I hope you will see many perspectives of the castle.
浮世絵に描かれた犬山城、「木曽街道鵜沼宿」渓斎英泉作、江戸時代～Inuyama Castle in a Ukiyoe painting, “Unuma on Kiso-kaido Road” attributed to Eisai Keisai in the Edo Period（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）現在の城下町～The castle town now（taken by fuku41 from photoAC）
ここに行くには～How to get There
ここに行くには、電車をおすすめします。 犬山駅から：途中城下町を通って歩いて約２０分です。 犬山遊園駅から：木曽川沿いを通って歩いて約１５分です。 名古屋から両駅まで：名鉄名古屋駅から名鉄犬山線の快速特急に乗ってください。 車の場合は、東名高速道路の小牧ＩＣから約１２ｋｍですが、城周辺の道路は混雑気味で、駐車場もあまりありません。 I recommend using the train to get there. From Inuyama station: it takes about 20 minutes on foot, going through the castle town on the way. From Inuyama-Yuen station: it takes about 15 minutes on foot, going along Kisogawa River. From Nagoya to both stations: Take the rapid limited express on Meitetsu Inuyama line from Meitetsu Nagoya Station. If you want to go there by car, it is about 12 km from the Komaki IC on the Tomei Expressway. But the roads around the castle tend to be crowded, and there are a few parking lots.
