Now we can still see Mt. Komakiyama covered with the green of the plants noticeable on the plain area. The building on the top is the Komaki City History Museum which looks like a Main Tower. Komaki City has been developing the whole of the mountain as a historical park. The city opened Komakiyama Castle Historical Site Information Center at the foot in 2019.
The aerial photo around the castle
When you get close to the mountain, you can find earthen walls and dry moats surrounding it. They were made by Ieyasu Tokugawa when the Battle of Komaki and Nagakute happened in 1584. From the Miyukibashi Entrance of the eastern side, you can enter the park across the wooden bridge through the alternate earthen walls. The bridge is not original but was built just for tourists to enter the park easily. Inside the walls, there are plain enclosures which were used for the houses of Nobunaga and his retainers, and also used as military posts of Ieyasu’s troops.
Main Road similar to Azuchi Castle
From the Main Entrance of the southern side, you can walk up the Main Route, which Nobunaga originally created, to the mountain. The route goes up straight to the mid-slope of the mountain and becomes zigzagged in the upper part. This formation is very similar to that of Azuchi Castle which was Nobunaga’s last home base. This meant he had his own ideas about building castles from an early age.
Remaining Huge Stones and Stone Walls on Mountain
The Komaki City History Museum is on the top of the mountain where the Main Enclosure was. Around the top, you can see several huge stones lying down. In fact, these stones originally were built in the stone walls surrounding the Main Enclosure. Part of the stone walls still remain, and they were thought to be built by Ieyasu, not Nobunaga. However, the recent excavation found out that Nobunaga built these stone walls using huge stones. They were made into three tiers to demonstrate his authority. They are now recognized as a very early example of stone walls for a castle built in Nobunaga’s unique way.
名胡桃事件で有名な城
The castle famous for the Nagurumi Incident
立地と歴史~Location and History
沼田城への橋頭保~Foothold for Numata Castle
名胡桃城は上野国(現在の群馬県)北部にありました。この城は戦国時代の16世紀後半に大河である利根川西岸の崖の上に築かれました。川を渡った反対側には沼田城があり、そこは関東地方の戦国大名にとっては非常に戦略的な拠点でした。武田氏の配下であった真田氏が沼田城を確保するための橋頭保として1579年に名胡桃城を築き、1580年には実際に沼田城を手に入れました。 Nagurumi Castle was located in the north part of Kozuke Province (what is now Gunma Prefecture). It was built in the late 16th Century during the Sengoku Period, on a cliff near the west bank of a large river called Tone-gawa. At the opposite side across the river, there was Numata Castle which was a very strategic spot for warlords in Kanto Region. The Sanada Clan under the Takeda Clan built Nagurumi Castle in 1579 as a foothold for capturing Numata Castle which actually belonged to Sanada in 1580.
城の位置~The location of the castle
城周辺の起伏地図~The relief map around the castle
名胡桃事件の発生~Nagurumi Incident happens
真田氏はしばらく沼田城を維持していましたが、1589年7月の天下人豊臣秀吉の裁定により、北条氏に引き渡されてしまいます。一方真田氏は、名胡桃城はまだ領土の一部としていました。この裁定は北条が秀吉の臣下になるという条件の下に行われました。1589年11月、豊臣秀吉の命令に逆らい、北条は名胡桃城を占領しました。この事件は名胡桃事件と呼ばれています。真田氏は秀吉に事件のことを訴え、秀吉は激怒し北条を成敗することを決定しました。北条氏は当時最も有力な戦国大名の一つでしたが、この事件は1590年の小田原征伐での滅亡につながります。定説によれば、北条は世の中の流れを見誤ったとされています。 The Sanada Clan held Numata Castle for a while, but the castle was handed over to the Hojo Clan under the decision by the ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi in July 1589, while Sanada still kept Nagurumi Castle in their territory. The decision was made on condition that Hojo would become a vassal of Hideyoshi. In November 1589, against the instructions of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, the Hojo Clan seized Nagurumi Castle. The incident at the castle is called the Nagurumi Incident. The Sanada Clan appealed it to Hideyoshi who was very angry about it and decided to defeat Hojo instead. The Hojo Clan was one of the greatest warlords at that time, but this incident led to their fall in the Siege of Odawara Castle in 1590. The established theory says Hojo misjudged the current tide.
秀吉と真田の陰謀か~Trick by Hideyoshi and Sanada?
しなしながら、歴史家の森田喜明は、この事件は秀吉と真田による謀略であったと反論しています。秀吉が残した手紙によると、彼は既に遅くとも1589年の10月には北条を成敗することを決めていたと言います。秀吉が1589年12月にこの事件のことを北条に問いただした時、北条は平然と、名胡桃城もまた真田から北条に引き渡されたものであり、秀吉に会うための準備を引き続き進めていると答えています。実は、秀吉が名胡桃城を真田側に留めるという裁定内容は、彼から北条への手紙に初めて出てくるのです。更には、発掘調査によれば、名胡桃城跡では戦いや火災があった跡は発見されていません。この新説は実に興味深いものです。 However, a historian Yoshiaki Morita argues that this incident was a trick made by Hideyoshi and Sanada. He says that Hideyoshi had already decided to defeat Hojo at latest in October 1589 according to Hideyoshi’s letters. When Hideyoshi asked Hojo about the incident in December 1589, Hojo answered Hideyoshi calmly that Nagurumi Castle had also been handed over to Hojo by Sanada and they still continued to prepare the meeting with Hideyoshi. In fact, the decision by Hideyoshi to keep Nagurumi Castle on Sanada’s side was shown in his letter to Hojo for the first time. In addition, there is no evidence of a battle or fire in the ruin of Nagurumi Castle according to the excavation team. This new theory is very intriguing.
いずれにしろ、北条氏が滅んだ後、沼田・名胡桃両城は真田氏のものとなりました。名胡桃城はその後すぐに廃城となります。真田による沼田城の支配が安定し、その役割が既に終わったからです。城の生涯は10年あまりでした。 Anyway, the fact is that the Sanada Clan owned both Numata and Nagurumi Castles again after the Hojo Clan was defeated. Nagurumi Castle was abandoned soon after that because its role had already ended when Sanada’s governance of Numata Castle became stable. The castle survived for more than ten years.
特徴~Features
自然の地形を生かして築城~Built using Natural terrain
現在、名胡桃城跡は行政によりよく整備されていますが、規模は大きくありません。それは、沼田城を手に入れるための橋頭保という、この城の目的が特定且つ一時的なものだからです。しかしながら、この城が崖から突き出た岬のような自然の地形を生かして作られているのが今でもよくわかります。この地形は、空堀によって三つの主要な郭~主郭、二郭、三郭、に先から元に向かって分かれています。その先には更に2つの郭~ささ郭と物見郭が見張りのために加えられていました。 Now, the ruins of Nagurumi Castle are well developed by officials, but their scale is small. This is because the purpose of the castle, the foothold for capturing Numata Castle, was specific and temporally. However, you can even now see the castle is built using the natural terrain of a shape like a cape sticking out of the cliff. The terrain is divided by dry moats into the three major enclosures – the Main Enclosure, the Second Enclosure, and the Third Enclosure from the top to the bottom. Over the top, two more small enclosures – Sasa-Kuruwa and Monomi-Kuruwa were added to look out.
城周辺の航空写真~The aerial photo around the castle
根元の方には「馬出し」と呼ばれる丸い形で突き出ている防御システムが加えられ、現在でもその形をなぞった線によりわかるようになっています。 At the bottom, a sticking out round shaped defensive position called “Umadashi” was added, the tracing line for the Umadashi shows it now.
主要部分の構造~Structures of Main Portion
これらの郭の間をつなぐ木橋と接続部分が復元されています。それぞれの郭は簡単な櫓とともに高い土塁と今よりずっと深い空堀によって囲まれていました。二郭は大きな郭でいくつかの建物がありました。主郭には城の記念碑が設置されています。ささ郭まで行くことができ、利根川と沼田市域の景色を眺めることができます。 Wooden bridges and zigzagged connecting points have been restored between these enclosures. Each enclosure was surrounded by high earthen walls with simple turrets and much deeper dry moats in the past. The Second Enclosure is the large one where several buildings stood. The monument of the castle is placed on the First Enclosure. You can go as far as the Sasa-Kuruwa Enclosure to have a view of Tone-gawa River and Numata City area.
その他の見所~Other Attractions
城で最も大きな郭は般若郭で、他の郭とは別の並びの所にあります。この郭は、多くの兵士を駐屯されるために使われたと考えられています。現在は、ここに車を駐車できます。 The largest enclosure in the castle called Hannya-Kuruwa is in a different line from the other enclosures. It is thought that this enclosure was used to station a lot of soldiers. You can now park your car at this enclosure.
城址案内所では城とその歴史のついてより学ぶことができます。もちろん、そこで説明されているのは、この城は決して北条に引き渡されていなかったという定説の方です。 You can learn more about the castle and its history at the information office. Of course, the explanation of the office is based on the established theory that the castle of never handed over to Hojo.
その後~Later History
名胡桃城は早くに廃城となりましたが、その名はとてもよく知られています。例えば、江戸時代後期の有名な日本の歴史書である「日本外史」には名胡桃事件のことが書かれています。1923年、地元の人々が城の保存会を立ち上げ、1927年には本郭に記念碑を建て、歴史公園として城跡を整備しました。更に最近では、みなかみ町が1992年から2006年までの間、城の発掘を行いました。2015年までに町は、詳細な発掘の成果に基づき土塁や木橋の一部の復元を行い、公園の整備を進めました。城跡は現在、群馬県の史跡に指定されています。 Nagurumi Castle was abandoned earlier, but its name is very well known. For example, a famous textbook for Japanese history in the late Edo Period, called “Nihon-Gaishi”, described the Nagurumi Incident. In 1923, the local people launched the preservation society for the castle and developed the ruins as a historical park building the monument at the Main Enclosure in 1927. In more recent years, Minakami Town excavated the castle between 1992 and 2006. By 2015, the town had developed the park more by restoring part of the earthen walls and wooden bridges according to the details of the achievements of the excavation. The ruins is now designated as a Prefectural Historic Site of Gunma.
私の感想~My Impression
名胡桃城は広くもなく、石垣の上の天守のような大きな建物もありませんでした。しかし、戦国大名が築いた無数の城の一例なのです。ほとんどの城は特定の目的のみに作られ、その役目を終えれば廃城となりました。名胡桃城はそのような城だったのですが、有名になったがゆえによく整備された城跡として見ることができるのです。この城は地味ですが有益だと思います。そして実際の歴史を学ぶためによい教材だと思うのです。 Nagurumi Castle was not large and didn’t have large buildings like a Main Tower on stone walls. However, it was an example of an uncountable number of castles warlord built. Most of these castles were built just for their specific roles and abandoned after their roles ended. Nagurumi Castle was one such castle, but we can enjoy seeing its well-developed ruins because the castle has become famous. I think the castle is simple, but useful. It is a good teaching resource for people to learn real history.
ここに行くには~How to get There
関越自動車道の月夜野ICから約10分のところにあります。般若郭に駐車場があります。 公共交通機関を使う場合には、上越新幹線の上毛高原駅か、JR上越線の後閑駅からタクシーに乗ってください。 It takes about 10 minutes driving from Tsukiyouno IC on Kanetsu Expressway. The ruins offer a parking lot in Hannya-Kuruwa enclosure. If you want to go there by public transportation, take a taxi from Jomo-Kogen Station on Joetsu-Shinkansen Super express or from Gokan Station on JR Joetsu Line.
中世と近世が同居している城
A castle mixed with the Middle Ages and the Modern times
立地と歴史~Location and History
武田信玄の本陣~Stronghold for Shingen Takeda
長野県長野市にある松代城は、真田氏の城下町として有名な観光地です。この城には長い歴史があります。16世紀に武田氏が最初に築城し、その頃は海津城と呼ばれていました。この城の建設の理由は、近くの川中島が越後国(現在の新潟県)の上杉氏との最前線であったからです。城は北側が千曲川に接していて、土塁や水堀に囲まれていました。また、城の門の外側には馬出しという武田氏独特の防御システムが備えられていました。城は実際に、1561年の非常に有名な上杉謙信との川中島の戦いにおいて武田信玄の本陣として使われました。 Matsusshiro Castle is a famous attraction in Nagano City, Nagano Prefecture, which was known as a Sanada Clan castle town. The castle has a long history. It was first built by the Takeda Clan in the late 16th Century and was called Kaizu Castle. The reason for the construction was that the area nearby called Kawanakajima was the front line against the Uesugi Clan in Echigo Province (what is now Niigata Prefecture). The castle bordered Chikuma-gawa River on the north and was surrounded by earthen walls and water moats. It is also said that it was equipped with the Takeda Clan’s unique defense system called Umadashi outside the castle gates. The castle was actually used as the stronghold for Shingen Takeda when he fought with Kenshin Uesugi in the very famous fourth Battle of Kawanakajima in 1561.
城の位置~The location of the castle
真田氏による統治~Governance by Sanada Clan
1582年に武田氏が織田氏により滅ぼされた後は、この城の城主は何度も変わりました。最終的には真田氏が、城と城下町を含む松代藩を1622年から江戸時代末まで支配しました。また、1711年には徳川幕府により、城の名前が松代城と変更されました。城はそれまでに改修が続けられます。例えば、城の中心地である本丸は、内堀とともに石垣によって囲まれました。石垣の四隅の上には4基の櫓が築かれ、3基の門が本丸の入口に設置されました。本丸の内部には御殿があり、城主が住んでいました。一方、外堀とともに本丸と内堀を囲む二の丸は、まだ土塁があるだけでした。また、恐らくは武田時代に由来する馬出しも残っていました。 After the Takeda Clan was defeated by the Oda Clan in 1582, the lords of the castle were changed several times. The Sanada Clan finally governed the Matsushiro Domain including the castle and the castle town from 1622 until the end of the Edo Period. The castle was also renamed Matsushiro Castle by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1711. The castle continued to be improved until then. For example, the center of the castle called the Main Enclosure was surrounded by stone walls with the Inner Moat. Four turrets were built on the four corners of the stone walls, and three gates were set at the entrances of the enclosure. The Main Hall was inside of the enclosure where the lord lived. On the other hand, the Second Enclosure with the Outer Moat surrounding the Main Enclosure and InnerMoat still had the earthen walls. The Umadashi system which probably originated in Takeda’s period, also remained.
新しい御殿~New Main Halls
しかしながら、この城の川に近い立地は防御には有利でしたが、統治や居住には不利でした。城は洪水の被害に何度も見舞われました。火災による被害もあり、真田氏は居宅を城の中心地から南西部分に移すことを決め、花の丸御殿を建設します。江戸時代末には城から離れた地に、親族関係者(婦女子)のための新御殿も建てました。 However, this castle’s location near the river was positive for defense, but negative for governance and living. The castle suffered damage from floods several times. It was also damaged by fires, so the Samada Clan decided to escape their home from the center of the castle to the southwest part, building Hananomaru Main Hall. The clan also built the New Main Hall for their relatives (women and children) far from the castle at the end of the Edo Period.
特徴~Features
江戸時代末期のように復元~Restored like End of Edo Period
現在、松代城の中心部は以前の姿に似通って見えます。本丸の石垣のみが現存しているのですが、本丸の2つの門、内堀と2つの橋、そして二の丸を囲む土塁さえもが長野市によって復元されています。市の関係者によると、江戸時代末期の姿を再現したということです。 Now, the center of Matsushiro Castle looks similar to its former appearance. Only the stone walls of the Main Enclosure are original, but two gates to the Main Enclosure, the Inner Moat with two bridges, and even earthen walls surrounding the Second Enclosure have been restored by Nagano City. The city officials say they tried to restore the castle to show its appearance at the end of the Edo Period.
城周辺の航空写真~The aerial photo around the castle
対照的な二の丸と本丸~Contrastive Second and Main Enclosures
観光客は通常、二の丸の入口である南門跡から城に入っていきます。この門跡は、復元された土塁に囲まれていて、その近くには馬出しの痕跡がわずかに残っています。この土塁と本丸の石垣はとても対照的です。それぞれが元々は別の時代に作られたからです。土塁は中世の戦国時代に由来し、石垣は主に江戸時代に作られました。 Visitors usually enter the castle through the ruins of the South Gate, the entrance of the Second Enclosure. The ruins are surrounded by the restored earthen walls and the trace of the Umadashi system slightly remains nearby. The earthen walls and the stone walls of the Main Enclosure are very contrastive because both of them come from different periods. The earthen walls are from the Sengoku Period of the Middle Ages and the stone walls are mainly from the Edo Period of the Modern Times.
本丸へは内堀にかかっている橋を渡り、太鼓門を通って入ります。これらは皆復元されたもので、城の新しいシンボルになりました。本丸の内側は1717年の大火以降は空き地になっています。角にあった4つの櫓は復元されていませんが、石垣は残っています。北西角のものは一番大きく、櫓の以前には天守が立っていたのではないかと言われています。また、この櫓の石垣とその積み方は他のものよりは古風であり、とても荒々しく見えます。櫓台の上に階段で登り、城周りの景色を見ることができます。 You can enter the Main Enclosure through the Taiko-mon Gate after crossing the bridge over the Inner Moat. These structures have all been restored and have become new symbols of the castle. The inside of the Main Enclosure has remained empty since the great fire in 1717. The four turrets on the corners have not been restored, but their stone wall bases remain. The northwest one is the largest and it is said that the Main Tower might have stood on it before the turret. Its stone walls and the method for piling them are also older than other stone walls, so they look very rough. You can go up the stairs to the top of the base to see a view around the castle.
独特な構造~Unique Structures
本丸の北側にはもう一つの復元された北不明門があります。その門をくぐっていくと、本丸を囲んでいる二の丸に戻っていきます。二の丸の北外側は、かつては千曲川でした。江戸時代に洪水を防ぐため、川の流路が替えられたのです。面白いものとしては、埋門という復元された小さな門が二の丸の土塁の所にあります。土塁に通した穴の中に組み込まれていますが、戦が始まったときには埋められるようになってました。 The northern side of the Main Enclosure has another restored gate called Kita-Akazu-mon. You can go through the gate back to the Second Enclosure surrounding the Main Enclosure. The outside of the Second Enclosure on the north was the Chikumagawa-River in the past. The route of the river was changed in the Edo Period to prevent floods. There is an interesting small, restored gate called Uzumi-mon in the earthen walls of the Second Enclosure. It was originally set in a hole through the walls which would have been filled when a battle happened.
その後~Later History
明治維新後、松代城は廃城となり、ほとんどの建物は売られるか撤去され、ほとんどの土地は元藩士に分け与えられ農地となりました。1904年、元藩主であり新御殿に住んでいた真田家は土地の一部を買い戻し、城跡を公園として公開しました。最終的には1951年にその土地を公共のものとして寄付しました。1981年には城跡は国の史跡に指定されましたが、当時は城の中心部に石垣だけが残っている状態でした。長野市は城跡を調査しいくつかの門、橋、土塁、水堀の復元を開始します。その復元は2004年に完了し、現在私たちは城が過去どのような姿であったか目にすることができるのです。 After the Meiji Restoration, Matsushiro Castle was abandoned, most of its buildings were sold or demolished, and most of its land was divided by former warriors to be turned into farm. In 1904, the former lord of the castle, the Sanada Clan, living in the New Main Hall, bought part of the land back to open the ruins of the castle as a park. The clan lastly donated the land to the officials in 1951. The ruins of the castle were designated as a National Historic Site in 1981, but only the stone walls remained at the center of the castle at that time. Nagano City investigated the ruins and started to restore some of gates, bridges, earthen walls and water moats. The restoration was completed in 2004 and we can now see what the castle looked like in the past.
私の感想~My Impression
松代城には、異なる時代の異なる特徴が同居しており、独特の雰囲気があると思います。石垣と土塁の面白い組み合わせを見ることができるからです。加えて、城から250m南にある真田邸をご覧になることをお勧めします。真田邸は実は新御殿の現在の名前なのです。城に関連する数少ない現存建物の一つです。これもまた国の史跡となっています。もともと藩主の近親者のために作られたものなので、その内装はとても優雅です。 I think that Matsushiro Castle has a unique atmosphere because it has different perspectives from different periods. You can see the interesting combination of its stone walls and earthen walls. In addition, I recommend that you visit the Sanada Hall, about 250m south of the castle. In fact, Sanada Hall is the present name of the New Main Hall, one of the few remaining buildings that form part of the castle. It is also designated as a National Historic Site. Its interior is very elegant as it was first built for the lord’s relatives.
ここに行くには~How to get There
上信越自動車道の長野ICから約5分のところです。城の周りにいくつか駐車場があります。 公共交通機関を使う場合は、長野駅からバスに乗り、松代駅バス停で降りてください。 It takes about 5 minutes from Nagano IC on Joshinetsu Expressway. There are parking lots around the castle. If you want to go there by public transportation, take the bus from Nanano Station and get off at the Matsushiro-eki bus stop.
リンク、参考情報~Links and References
・松代城の環境整備、長野市(Nagano City Official Website) ・よみがえる日本の城14、学研(Japanese Book) ・「日本の城改訂版第7号」デアゴスティーニジャパン(Japanese Book)