Now, the ruins of Shozui Castle have two parts. One of them is the larger part which was used as the hall for the Hosokawa Clan and the Miyoshi Clan. Therefore, people often call it “Shozui Hall ruins”. This area is basically an open space where a lot of relics are buried under the ground. The excavation is still ongoing with the site office. If some relics are found, they are investigated, studied, and finally buried again or taken to preserve them. After that, some exhibitions are built in the present way at the spot where the relics were found.
The aerial photo around the castle
The ruins of “Shozui Hall”
Excavation and Exhibition are on going in Hall Ruins
For example, the replica of the water moats with some bridges were built at the same place and in a similar size to the original ones. Visitors can now see how the hall area was divided by these moats in the past. In addition, the rest house which looks like a hall was built where the relics of the original hall were found. Near the rest house, some trees and rocks were restored where the original Japanese rock garden was built. There are also many signboards which explain what were there and what happened to the castle.
The replica of the water moatsThe rest house which looks like a hallThe partly restored gardenAn example of the signboards at the site
Castle Ruins remain as Temple
The other part is the one which was added as the final part for a battle in the final stage of the castle. It looks more likely to be castle ruins, so people also often call itself “Shozui Castle ruins”. However, this part is much smaller than the hall part with about 100 m square (vs 200 to 300 m square for the hall). This is probably because the castle part was built and used in a short time. There is Kensho-ji Temple on the ruins, which was established in the Edo Period, collecting the graves of the Miyoshi Clan. The water moats and some earthen walls surrounding the ruins still remain. The original earthen walls were 14m high from the bottom of the moat (2.5m above the water surface) according to the excavation.
Kensho-ji Templethe graves of the Miyoshi ClanThe water moats surrounding the ruinsThe partly remaining earthen walls
Shozui Castle prospered between the mid 14th Century and the late 16th Century as the center of Awa Province on Shikoku Island (what is now Tokushima Prefecture). The castle was first launched as the official residence of the province’s governor by the Hosokawa Clan which was a senior vassal of the Ashikaga Shogunate. Awa Province was a fertile land near Kyoto which was the center of Japan. The castle was also located alongside Yoshino-gawa River, the largest river in Shikoku Island, so it was convenient for water transportation and trade. As a result, the castle became an important base for the clan.
The location of the castle
Castle is developed as Miyoshi Clan’s Home Base
In the mid 16th Century, Nagayoshi Miyoshi, who was a retainer of the Hosokawa Clan, became the ruler instead of Hosokawa. He lived in Imori Castle near Kyoto to govern the center of Japan, while his little brother, Jikkyu Miyoshi lived in Shozui Castle. The Miyoshi Clan originally came from Awa Province. They also needed to work closely between Kyoto and Awa to keep their power like the Hosokawa Clan did. For example, Jikkyu took many soldiers from Awa to battle in Kinki Region, including Kyoto, when his big brother, Nagayoshi was in danger.
The portrait of Nagayoshi Miyoshi, owned by Juko-in of Daitokuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The ruins of Imori CastleThe portrait of Jikkyu Miyoshi, owned by Myokokuji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Jikkyu also developed Shozui Castle. The castle became larger, having several enclosures separated by the water moats, including the Main Hall and a Japanese rock garden. According to the excavation, valuable Chinese ceramic ware was traded and ceremonies like parties and cockfights were often held there. Though the castle was surrounded by rivers such as Yoshino-gawa River as natural hazards, the castle itself still didn’t have special structures like earthen walls for defense. It could be because the governance of Awa Province was quite stable and there was little need for defense. The water moats were thought to be used for flood control or a reservoir. By this time, the castle was likely called “Shozui Hall” because it probably didn’t have all the features of a castle.
The ruins of “Shozui Hall”
Castle is captured by Chosogabe Clan
However, after Nagayoshi and Jikkyu died in the late 16th Century, the situation changed. Shozui Castle got into some internal troubles and battles as the power of the Miyoshi Clan decreased. In addition, Motochika Chosogabe, a great warlord in Tosa Province (what is now Kochi Prefecture) aimed to capture Awa Province. The Miyoshi Clan then asked the ruler, Nobunaga Oda who owned the center of Japan for help. Hideyoshi Hashiba, who was Nobunaga’s retainer and became a ruler following Nobunaga, sent a letter which says that Shozui should build up its defenses. The Miyoshi Clan extended Shozui Castle by adding the final part for a battle, which was surrounded by high earthen walls and a deep-water moat. With these additions, people can finally call the castle “Shozui Castle” in the end.
The portrait of Motochika Chosogabe, owned by Hada Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The ruins of “Shozui Castle”
After Nobugana was suddenly killed in the Honnoji Incident in 1582, the Miyoshi Clan had to fight with the Chosogabe Clan by themselves. In the same year, the battle of Nakatomi-gawa River happened between the clans in the south of Shozui Castle. The Miyoshi Clan was unfortunately defeated and besieged in Shozui Castle for nearly a month. However, the Chozogabe Clan lastly captured Shozui Castle after the Miyoshi Clan withdrew from the castle. The castle was abandoned right away probably because it was not suitable for surviving battles. After that, mountain castles like Ichinomiya Castle became popular in Awa Province.
次の地震に備えるためにはどうすればよいのでしょうか？ What should be the plan to be prepared for the next earthquake?
熊本城の天守（The Tenshu keep of Kumamoto Castle）taken by さてらいと from photoAC
何が起こったか～What happened?
２０１６年に熊本地震が起きてから３年以上経過しました。この地震により熊本県には甚大な被害が発生し、熊本城も同様でした。城にとって最も深刻だったのが、５０か所に渡り石垣が崩壊したことでした。石垣の崩壊により、多くの建物が倒壊したり、破損または深刻な状態に陥りました。現存する日本の城壁の中では一番長く、重要文化財に指定されている長塀は、全長２４２ｍのうち８０ｍが崩壊しました。
Over 3 years have passed since the 2016 Kumamoto Earthquakes. They caused great damage to the area in Kumamoto Prefecture including Kumamoto Castle. For the castle, the most serious factor could be the collapse of stone walls in 50 points. With the collapse, many buildings were either torn down, were broken or are in critical condition. The Long Wall, the longest among the remaining castle walls in Japan, designated as an important cultural property, collapsed over 80m out of 242m in total.
地震前の長塀（The Long Wall before the earthquakes）licensed by DryPot via Wikimedia Commons修理中の長塀、２０１９年６月時点（The Long Wall under repair in June, 2019）
もう一つの重要文化財である東十八間櫓は、石垣とともに完全に倒壊しました。
Another important cultural property, Higashi-Juhakken Turret also torn down completely with stone walls.
地震前の東十八間櫓（Higashi-Juhakken Turret before the earthquakes）lisencesd by Reggaeman via Wikimedia Commons東十八間櫓は跡形もありません、２０１７年１２月時点（Higashi-Juhakken Turret disappeared without trace, taken in December,2017）
最近復元された建物もまた被害を受けました。特に飯田丸五階櫓は、わずかに片隅の石垣によって支えられている「奇跡の一本石垣」として注目されました。 Recently restored building also suffered, in particular, Iidamaru-five-layer-turret was focused on for being supported by only one corner stone to survive, known as “the miracle lone stone walls”.
飯田丸五階櫓と一本石垣、２０１６年７月時点、現在は再建のため一旦撤去されている（Iidamaru-five-layer-turret and the miracle lone stone walls in July,2016. They were once demolished to reconstruct in the future.）産経フォトより引用
乾櫓も同じような状況でした。 Inui-turret has had a similar situation.
乾櫓、２０１７年１２月時点（Inui Turret in December, 2017）乾櫓石垣の状態、２０１７年１２月時点（The state of Inui Turret’s stone walls）
１９６０年に現代の工法で外観復元された天守も被害を免れませんでした。ほとんどの屋根瓦が地震で剝げ落ちてしまったのです。
The Tenshu keep, which was apparently restored in the modern way in 1960, was not without suffering. Almost all of its roof tiles were peeled off by the earthquakes.
修理中の天守、２０１７年１２月時点（The Tenshu keep under repair in December, 2017）
城の現存建物の中で最大の宇土櫓は、比較的少ない被害で済みました。この櫓の頑丈さが改めて認識されるとともに、地震の被害者をも勇気づけているとのことです。
Udo-turret, the largest remaining building in the castle had relatively small damage. People say that it has shown its strength and has encouraged victims of the earthquakes.
宇土櫓、２０１７年１２月時点（Udo Turret in December, 2017）
熊本市長は、天守を修理するのに３年、城全体を元通りにするのに２０年かかると言っていました。その通りに天守の復元はなされており、２０１９年１０月から部分的に公開されています。
The mayor of Kumamoto City stated that it would take 3 years to fix the Tenshu, and 20 years would be needed to restore the castle completely. As he said, the restoration of Tenshu has been done, it has partly open since October 2019.
２０１９年９月時点の天守（The Tenshu keep in September, 2019）産経フォトより引用
立地と歴史～Location and History
熊本城は、現在の熊本市の丘陵地帯の端に位置する茶臼山の上にあります。この城は加藤清正が１５８８年に肥後（現在の熊本県）の国主として着任してきてから有名になりました。清正は、薩摩国（現在の鹿児島県）の島津氏の幕府への反逆を防ぐため、この城を強大に作り込みました。加藤氏が改易となった後、その後を継いだ細川氏も江戸時代を通じて大変な労力を投じて城を維持、拡張してきました。 Kumamoto Castle has been located on a mountain called Chausu-yama on the edge of the hilly area which is now Kumamoto City. The castle became famous since Kiyomasa Kato was placed as the lord of Higo Province (what is now called Kumamoto Pref.) in 1588. Kiyomasa built the castle so large and strong that it could avoid The Shimadu’s invasion from Satsuma Province (Kagoshima Pref.) against the Shogunate. The Hosokawa clan following kato’s position after they quit, continued to keep and develop the castle making great efforts all through the Edo Period.
城周辺の起伏地図（The relief map around the castle）
加藤清正像、本妙寺蔵、江戸時代（The portrait of Kiyomasa Kato in Edo Period, owned by Honmyoji Temple）licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons
明治維新後、この城は日本陸軍の九州地方の根拠地となり、「鎮西鎮台」と呼ばれました。１８７７年に予期もしていなかった戦いが政府軍と西郷隆盛率いる薩摩反乱軍との間で起こりました。この戦いは「西南戦争」と呼ばれ、日本最後の内戦であるとともに、政府による徴兵と西郷指揮下の元武士との戦いであるとも見なされました。
After the Meiji Restoration, the castle was turned to into a Japanese Army base in Kyushu region called “Chinzei Chindai”. An unexpected battle happened between the Government Army and the Satusma Rebel Army led by Takamori Saigo in 1877. It was called “the Seinan War”, which was the last civil war in Japan, and also regarded as a battle between drafted soldiers under the Government and former warriors under Saigo.
西郷隆盛像、エドアルド・キヨッソーネ作（The portrait of Takamori Saigo by Edoardo Chiossone）licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons
熊本城が実際の戦いに使われたのはこれが最初だったのです。西郷は城を包囲したのですが、この間天守を含む多くの建物が失火により焼けてしまいました。しかし城の中の兵隊たちは、政府からの援軍が到着するまで耐え忍び、ついに西郷は撤退しました。武士の世が終わってからの近代戦においてさえ、この城が強力であることが証明されたのです。城跡は最終的には１９３１年に国の史跡に指定されました。
That was the first time that Kumamoto Castle was used for actual fighting. Saigo surrounded the castle while many of the buildings including the Tenshu keep were burned accidentally. But the soldiers in the castle survived until the reinforcements from the Government arrived before Saigo withdrew. Even the modern war prove the strength of the castle after warriors’ governance ended. The ruins was finally designated as a National Historic Site in 1931.
谷干城少将に率いられた鎮西鎮台の指揮官たち、朝日百科より（The commanders of Chinzei Chindai led by General Tateki Tani, from Asahi encyclopedia）licensed under Public Domain via Wikipedia Commons
これからどうなる？～What will happen?
なぜ復元にそんなに時間がかかるかというと、熊本城が文化財だからです。例えば、崩壊した石垣の場合では、一つ一つの石は元の場所に戻されなければなりません。それぞれの石の３次元データを登録し、以前の写真と照合し、位置を確定するのです。更には、石垣を復元するのは元の伝統的工法でなければなりません。それができる企業や職人は限られています。またそれには莫大な予算も必要です。
The reason why the restoration takes so long time is mainly the castle being a cultural property. For example. In case of collapsing stone walls, each stone must be returned to the original position. Its 3-dimensional shapes are registered and checked with old pictures to match the position. In addition, restoring stone walls is required to build in the original traditional way. There are also few companies and craftsmen who can do it. it will also require huge funds.
復元を待つ石たち、２０１７年１２月時点（Stones waitng for being restored in December, 2017）
私の意見～My Opinion
私は最近現場を見て回りましたが、復元にそんなにも時間がかかることは理解できました。しかし、もしまた地震が起こったらどうするのでしょうか？清正は、あの有名な「武者返し」と呼ばれる石垣のカーブを地震による崩壊を防ぐために作ったのだと言う科学者がいます。
I looked around the site recently and also realized that the restoration would take such a long time. But what should be the plan if another earthquake happens? Some scientists say that Kiyomasa might have created the famous curve of the stone walls called “Musha-Gaeshi” to prevent it from collapse by an earthquake.
熊本城の「武者返し」の石垣と天守（The stone walls called “Musha-Gaeshi” with Tenshu）taken by ichico from photoAC
江戸時代初期のこの城の城主だった細川忠利は、余分な建物を撤去し、次来る地震に備えて「地震屋」と呼ばれる避難所を建てました。 Tadatoshi Hosokawa, a lord of the castle in the early Edo Period, removed extra buildings and built a refuge shelter called “jishinya” to be prepared for the next earthquake.
細川忠利肖像画、矢野吉重筆、永青文庫蔵（The portrait of Tadatoshi Hosokawa, attributed to Yoshishige Yano, owned by Eisei Bunko Musemu）licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons
たとえ今は文化財であっても、元々のやり方が常にベストとは限りません。熊本市は、大きな地震が発生したときにも安全であるよう、長期的に城の新しい復元手法を開発するとのことです。それが早く実現するよう願ってやみません。
Even if the castle is now a cultural property, the original way is not always the best. Kumamoto City says that they will develop new methods for restoring the castle in the long term to be safe when a large earthquake happens. I really hope it will work in practice soon.
宇土櫓と修理中の天守、２０１７年１２月時点（Udo Turret, and Tenshu under repair in December, 2017）
ここに行くには～How to get There
熊本駅から：
熊本市電を使うときは、熊本駅前電停から熊本城・市役所前電停まで乗ります。約１７分かかります。
バスを使うときは、熊本駅前バス停から桜町バスターミナルまで乗ります。約１０分かかります。
From Kumamoto Station:
When using Kumamoto City Tram, take the tram from Kumamoto-Eki-Mae tram stop to Kumamotojo-Shiyakusho-Mae tram stop. It takes about 17 minutes.
When using Bus, take it from Kumamoto-Eki-Mae bus stop to Sakuramachi bus terminal. It takes about 10 minutes.
リンク、参考情報～Links and Rererences
・熊本城公式サイト（Kumamoto Castle Official Website） ・「復興熊本城Vol.２ 天守復興編Ⅰ 平成30年度上半期まで」熊本日日新聞社（Japanese Book） ・「熊本城の被災修復と細川忠利」後藤典子著、熊日新書（Japanese Book） ・「歴史群像２０１６年８月号／壮烈！熊本城攻防戦」学研プラス（Japanese Magazine） ・「ＢＳ１スペシャルよみがえれ熊本城 サムライの英知を未来へ」ＮＨＫ、２０１７年（Japanese TV Program）
