The castle of Kenshin Uesugi, the strongest warlord
Location and History
Kenshin Uesugi, Warlord who respected Justice
Kasugayama Caste was located in Echigo Province (what is now Nigata Prefecture), facing the Japan Sea. The castle is well known for one of its lords, Kenshin Uesugi. Kenshin is said to be the strongest warlord in the 16th Century during the Sengoku Period. While he fought over 70 battles during his 49-year life, he suffered no obvious defeat.
The location of the castle
The portrait of Kenshin Uesugi, owned by the Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Kenshin also had very unique perspectives which other warlords never had. He never fought to invade other provinces by himself. He only fought with the help of others who were defeated by another warlord. As a result, he fought with a great warlord, Shingen Takeda 5 times on the south of his province. He also went over the mountains to the Kanto Region facing the Pacific Ocean to fight with the Hojo Clan as many as 17 times. Kenshin was a devout Buddhist, remained single all his life, and prayed for victory at the Bishamon-do Hall several days before his battles. He once escaped from the castle and tried to become a Buddhist priest, but his retainers urged him to go back to the castle until he gave up trying to become a priest.
The statues of Shingen Takeda (on the left) and Kenshin Uesugi (on the right) at the Kawanakajima Battlefield (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The restored Bishamon-do Hall
Despite Kenshin’s strength, he was not able to become a ruler. Every time he withdrew from a province after his win, his enemies got their territories back. He is sometimes criticized by historians. However, many history fans still love him as a warlord who respected justice.
The flag of Kenshin Uesugi (taken by 松波庄九郎 from photoAC)
Castle covered with Enclosures and Buildings.
Kasugayama Castle was built using earthworks on an 189m high mountain beside the Kubiki Plain, the western part of Nigata Pref. It is uncertain when the castle was first built, but Tamekage Nagao, Kenshin’s father, improved the castle. The scale of the castle became larger in Kenshin’s period, and the mountain was covered with uncountable enclosures and buildings.
The old drawing of Kasugayama Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The castle consisted of three parts at that time. The main portion of the castle was on the top of the mountain with the front facing the plain on the east. It included the Main Enclosure, the Bisyamon-do Hall, a senior vassal Naoe’s Hall, and Halls for Kenshin’s two adopted sons, Kagekatsu and Kagetora. Next, the Main Route went up from the southeast foot of the mountain to the top. It was a long detour around the mountain, passing the guard house and other senior vassals’ halls such as Kakizaki. Lastly, the Back Route also went up from the northeast foot to Naoe’s Hall. It passed through the Kurogane-mon Gate, the Hall for the Lord, the Sengan-mon Gate and the alternate entrance called Koguchi.
The georama of Kasugayama Castle at Joetsu City Buried Cultural Property Center
The castle might not have had complex defense systems, but it had the network of the branch castles, such as Samegao Castle, to work together when a battle happened.
The network of the branch castles around Kasugayama Castle (Joetsu City Buried Cultural Property Center)
Abandoned at Peaceful Time
After Kenshin died in 1578, an internal battle unfortunately happened in the castle between Kagekatsu and Kagetora. Kagekatsu finally won, but he was transferred to Wakamatsu Castle by the ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi in 1598. After that, the Hori Clan governed the castle, building the outer earthen walls called So-gamae to make the castle the largest. However, the clan moved to Fukushima Castle on the plain for convenience of governance in 1607. Kasugayama Castle was abandoned at the same time.
The portrait of Kagekatsu Uesugi, owned by Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The restored outer earthen walls
Were the people the castle, the stone walls, or the moats?
Location and History
Nobutora Takeda built Castle as Governor’s Residence
Takeda Clan Hall, which is also called Tsutsujigasaki Hall, was located in what is now Kofu City, the Prefectural Capital of Yamanashi Prefecture. I would say the hall is the origin of Kofu City. The Governor of Kai Province (now Yamanashi Pref), Nobutora Takeda first built the hall in 1519. The hall was not only for the official residence of the governor, but also for the home base of the Takeda Clan, so it is classified as one of the castles in Japan.
The portrait of Nobutora Takeda, attributed to Nobukado Takeda, owned by Daisen-ji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Its location had mountains behind on the north, and an alluvial fan spread down on the south from around there. This meant Nobutora was able to overlook the castle town and the area around. He built his hall on a square enclosure which was nearly 200m on one side, surrounded by earthen walls and water moats. This was a typical style of the residences for governors in Japan at that time, emulating the style of Shogun’s palace in Kyoto. In addition, he built another castle on a mountain about 2km away from the hall on the north, called Yogaisan Castle, for emergency. For example, he and his family could escape from the hall to the mountain castle when a battle happened. Indeed, his son, Shingen Takeda was born at Yogaisan Castle during the battle between Nobutora and the Imagawa Clan in 1521. The network of these castle was defensive enough to maintain their safety during that time.
The location of the castle
Shingen Takeda’s saying related to Castle
Shingen, who was one of the greatest warlords in Japan, developed the hall as well, adding the West Enclosure for residences of his family and relatives on the west of the center enclosure in 1551. Apart from that, the Umadashi system, which refers to a round shaped sticking out defensive position, was built in front of the Main Gate on the east. It is also said that the hall for Shingen’s mother was built on the north. Each enclosure was surrounded by nearly 10m high earthen walls and over 5m deep water moats.
The imaginary drawing of Takeda Clan Hall (from the signboard at the site)
However, the hall seems to be misunderstood by many people. This comes from Shingen’s saying “The people are the castle, the stone walls, and the moats…” recorded in the military science book called Koyogunkan in the 17th Century of the Edo Period. The sentence means it is more important to win the people’s hearts than to build a strong castle, but many people later have been thinking it shows the reason why Shingen only had such a small castle in comparison to other castles for other warlords such as Nobunaga Oda and Kenshin Uesugi.
The portrait of Shingen Takeda, owned by Jimyo-in Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Takeda Clan Hall itself is much smaller than Nobunaga’s Azuchi Castle or Kenshin’s Kasugayama Castle, but it is because their periods or situations were different. In the case of Shingen, his hall started from the governor’s residence. It was common for governors to live in such a hall at that time. The Takeda Clan added defense systems like the network of the castles and Umadashi to deal with their situation. It was enough for them.
The ruins of Takeda Clan Hall
Katsuyori Takeda moved to another
In 1582, Shingen’s son, Katsuyori Takeda decided to move his home base to a large new castle called Shinpu Castle, because the situation changed. Katsuyori was threatened by Nobunaga, so Katsuyori needed a stronger and larger castle than the Takeda Clan Hall which was once abandoned. Katsuyori was unfortunately beaten by Nobunaga before the hall was used by the Oda Clan and the Tokugawa Clan again. It was finally abandoned in 1590, when the Tokugawa Clan built Kofu Castle near the hall.
The Portrait of Katsuyori Takeda, owned by Koyasan Jimyoin (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
中世と近世が同居している城
A castle mixed with the Middle Ages and the Modern times
立地と歴史～Location and History
武田信玄の本陣～Stronghold for Shingen Takeda
長野県長野市にある松代城は、真田氏の城下町として有名な観光地です。この城には長い歴史があります。１６世紀に武田氏が最初に築城し、その頃は海津城と呼ばれていました。この城の建設の理由は、近くの川中島が越後国（現在の新潟県）の上杉氏との最前線であったからです。城は北側が千曲川に接していて、土塁や水堀に囲まれていました。また、城の門の外側には馬出しという武田氏独特の防御システムが備えられていました。城は実際に、1561年の非常に有名な上杉謙信との川中島の戦いにおいて武田信玄の本陣として使われました。 Matsusshiro Castle is a famous attraction in Nagano City, Nagano Prefecture, which was known as a Sanada Clan castle town. The castle has a long history. It was first built by the Takeda Clan in the late 16th Century and was called Kaizu Castle. The reason for the construction was that the area nearby called Kawanakajima was the front line against the Uesugi Clan in Echigo Province (what is now Niigata Prefecture). The castle bordered Chikuma-gawa River on the north and was surrounded by earthen walls and water moats. It is also said that it was equipped with the Takeda Clan’s unique defense system called Umadashi outside the castle gates. The castle was actually used as the stronghold for Shingen Takeda when he fought with Kenshin Uesugi in the very famous fourth Battle of Kawanakajima in 1561.
城の位置～The location of the castle
城内にある「海津城」の碑～The monument of “Kaizu Castle” in the castle川中島古戦場にある武田信玄と上杉謙信の銅像～The statues of Shingen Takeda and Kenshin Uesugi at the Kawanakajima Battlefield (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
真田氏による統治～Governance by Sanada Clan
1582年に武田氏が織田氏により滅ぼされた後は、この城の城主は何度も変わりました。最終的には真田氏が、城と城下町を含む松代藩を1622年から江戸時代末まで支配しました。また、1711年には徳川幕府により、城の名前が松代城と変更されました。城はそれまでに改修が続けられます。例えば、城の中心地である本丸は、内堀とともに石垣によって囲まれました。石垣の四隅の上には４基の櫓が築かれ、３基の門が本丸の入口に設置されました。本丸の内部には御殿があり、城主が住んでいました。一方、外堀とともに本丸と内堀を囲む二の丸は、まだ土塁があるだけでした。また、恐らくは武田時代に由来する馬出しも残っていました。 After the Takeda Clan was defeated by the Oda Clan in 1582, the lords of the castle were changed several times. The Sanada Clan finally governed the Matsushiro Domain including the castle and the castle town from 1622 until the end of the Edo Period. The castle was also renamed Matsushiro Castle by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1711. The castle continued to be improved until then. For example, the center of the castle called the Main Enclosure was surrounded by stone walls with the Inner Moat. Four turrets were built on the four corners of the stone walls, and three gates were set at the entrances of the enclosure. The Main Hall was inside of the enclosure where the lord lived. On the other hand, the Second Enclosure with the Outer Moat surrounding the Main Enclosure and InnerMoat still had the earthen walls. The Umadashi system which probably originated in Takeda’s period, also remained.
城の想像図（正面）～The imaginary drawing of the castle (the front) (現地説明板より～from the signboard at the site)城の想像図（背面）～The imaginary drawing of the castle (the back) (現地説明板より～from the signboard at the site)
新しい御殿～New Main Halls
しかしながら、この城の川に近い立地は防御には有利でしたが、統治や居住には不利でした。城は洪水の被害に何度も見舞われました。火災による被害もあり、真田氏は居宅を城の中心地から南西部分に移すことを決め、花の丸御殿を建設します。江戸時代末には城から離れた地に、親族関係者（婦女子）のための新御殿も建てました。 However, this castle’s location near the river was positive for defense, but negative for governance and living. The castle suffered damage from floods several times. It was also damaged by fires, so the Samada Clan decided to escape their home from the center of the castle to the southwest part, building Hananomaru Main Hall. The clan also built the New Main Hall for their relatives (women and children) far from the castle at the end of the Edo Period.
新御殿～The New Main Hall
特徴～Features
江戸時代末期のように復元～Restored like End of Edo Period
現在、松代城の中心部は以前の姿に似通って見えます。本丸の石垣のみが現存しているのですが、本丸の２つの門、内堀と２つの橋、そして二の丸を囲む土塁さえもが長野市によって復元されています。市の関係者によると、江戸時代末期の姿を再現したということです。 Now, the center of Matsushiro Castle looks similar to its former appearance. Only the stone walls of the Main Enclosure are original, but two gates to the Main Enclosure, the Inner Moat with two bridges, and even earthen walls surrounding the Second Enclosure have been restored by Nagano City. The city officials say they tried to restore the castle to show its appearance at the end of the Edo Period.
復元された本丸～The restored Main Enclosure
城周辺の航空写真～The aerial photo around the castle
対照的な二の丸と本丸～Contrastive Second and Main Enclosures
観光客は通常、二の丸の入口である南門跡から城に入っていきます。この門跡は、復元された土塁に囲まれていて、その近くには馬出しの痕跡がわずかに残っています。この土塁と本丸の石垣はとても対照的です。それぞれが元々は別の時代に作られたからです。土塁は中世の戦国時代に由来し、石垣は主に江戸時代に作られました。 Visitors usually enter the castle through the ruins of the South Gate, the entrance of the Second Enclosure. The ruins are surrounded by the restored earthen walls and the trace of the Umadashi system slightly remains nearby. The earthen walls and the stone walls of the Main Enclosure are very contrastive because both of them come from different periods. The earthen walls are from the Sengoku Period of the Middle Ages and the stone walls are mainly from the Edo Period of the Modern Times.
南門跡～The ruins of the South Gate復元された二の丸～The restored Second Enclosure
本丸へは内堀にかかっている橋を渡り、太鼓門を通って入ります。これらは皆復元されたもので、城の新しいシンボルになりました。本丸の内側は1717年の大火以降は空き地になっています。角にあった４つの櫓は復元されていませんが、石垣は残っています。北西角のものは一番大きく、櫓の以前には天守が立っていたのではないかと言われています。また、この櫓の石垣とその積み方は他のものよりは古風であり、とても荒々しく見えます。櫓台の上に階段で登り、城周りの景色を見ることができます。 You can enter the Main Enclosure through the Taiko-mon Gate after crossing the bridge over the Inner Moat. These structures have all been restored and have become new symbols of the castle. The inside of the Main Enclosure has remained empty since the great fire in 1717. The four turrets on the corners have not been restored, but their stone wall bases remain. The northwest one is the largest and it is said that the Main Tower might have stood on it before the turret. Its stone walls and the method for piling them are also older than other stone walls, so they look very rough. You can go up the stairs to the top of the base to see a view around the castle.
太鼓門～The Taiko-mon Gate本丸の内部～The inside of the Main Enclosure北西櫓石垣（内側）～The stone walls for the Northwest Turret (the inside)北西櫓石垣（外側）～The stone walls for the Northwest Turret (the outside)
独特な構造～Unique Structures
本丸の北側にはもう一つの復元された北不明門があります。その門をくぐっていくと、本丸を囲んでいる二の丸に戻っていきます。二の丸の北外側は、かつては千曲川でした。江戸時代に洪水を防ぐため、川の流路が替えられたのです。面白いものとしては、埋門という復元された小さな門が二の丸の土塁の所にあります。土塁に通した穴の中に組み込まれていますが、戦が始まったときには埋められるようになってました。 The northern side of the Main Enclosure has another restored gate called Kita-Akazu-mon. You can go through the gate back to the Second Enclosure surrounding the Main Enclosure. The outside of the Second Enclosure on the north was the Chikumagawa-River in the past. The route of the river was changed in the Edo Period to prevent floods. There is an interesting small, restored gate called Uzumi-mon in the earthen walls of the Second Enclosure. It was originally set in a hole through the walls which would have been filled when a battle happened.
北不明門（櫓門部分）～The Kita-Akazu-mon Gate (the turret gate part)北不明門（表門部分）～The Kita-Akazu-mon Gate (the front gate part)二の丸の北外側～The outside of the Second Enclosure on the north復元された埋門～The restored Uzumi-mon Gate
その後～Later History
明治維新後、松代城は廃城となり、ほとんどの建物は売られるか撤去され、ほとんどの土地は元藩士に分け与えられ農地となりました。1904年、元藩主であり新御殿に住んでいた真田家は土地の一部を買い戻し、城跡を公園として公開しました。最終的には1951年にその土地を公共のものとして寄付しました。1981年には城跡は国の史跡に指定されましたが、当時は城の中心部に石垣だけが残っている状態でした。長野市は城跡を調査しいくつかの門、橋、土塁、水堀の復元を開始します。その復元は2004年に完了し、現在私たちは城が過去どのような姿であったか目にすることができるのです。 After the Meiji Restoration, Matsushiro Castle was abandoned, most of its buildings were sold or demolished, and most of its land was divided by former warriors to be turned into farm. In 1904, the former lord of the castle, the Sanada Clan, living in the New Main Hall, bought part of the land back to open the ruins of the castle as a park. The clan lastly donated the land to the officials in 1951. The ruins of the castle were designated as a National Historic Site in 1981, but only the stone walls remained at the center of the castle at that time. Nagano City investigated the ruins and started to restore some of gates, bridges, earthen walls and water moats. The restoration was completed in 2004 and we can now see what the castle looked like in the past.
復元中の城跡～The castle ruins being restored復元後の城～The castle after the restoration
私の感想～My Impression
松代城には、異なる時代の異なる特徴が同居しており、独特の雰囲気があると思います。石垣と土塁の面白い組み合わせを見ることができるからです。加えて、城から250ｍ南にある真田邸をご覧になることをお勧めします。真田邸は実は新御殿の現在の名前なのです。城に関連する数少ない現存建物の一つです。これもまた国の史跡となっています。もともと藩主の近親者のために作られたものなので、その内装はとても優雅です。 I think that Matsushiro Castle has a unique atmosphere because it has different perspectives from different periods. You can see the interesting combination of its stone walls and earthen walls. In addition, I recommend that you visit the Sanada Hall, about 250m south of the castle. In fact, Sanada Hall is the present name of the New Main Hall, one of the few remaining buildings that form part of the castle. It is also designated as a National Historic Site. Its interior is very elegant as it was first built for the lord’s relatives.
本丸の石垣～The stone walls of the Main Enclosure二の丸の土塁～The earthen walls of the Second Enclosure真田邸の内装～The interior of the Sanada Hall真田邸の御居間～The living room of the Sanada Hall真田邸の縁側と庭園～The veranda and garden of the Sanada Hall
ここに行くには～How to get There
上信越自動車道の長野ICから約５分のところです。城の周りにいくつか駐車場があります。 公共交通機関を使う場合は、長野駅からバスに乗り、松代駅バス停で降りてください。 It takes about 5 minutes from Nagano IC on Joshinetsu Expressway. There are parking lots around the castle. If you want to go there by public transportation, take the bus from Nanano Station and get off at the Matsushiro-eki bus stop.
リンク、参考情報～Links and References
・松代城の環境整備、長野市（Nagano City Official Website） ・よみがえる日本の城１４、学研（Japanese Book） ・「日本の城改訂版第７号」デアゴスティーニジャパン（Japanese Book）
