Border Castle between Northern and Southern Omi Province
Kamaha Castle was a mountain castle during the Sengoku Period, which was located in Omi Provence (currently the modern day location of Shiga Prefecture). Its position was in the central area of the province, which at the time was divided into two parts, the northern part and the southern part. As a result, the two warlords from the Rokkaku Clan in the south and the warlord from the Azai Clan in the north were constantly gaining and loosing castles each other. Kamaha Castle was built on one of the ridges, which was 384 meters high, of Mt. Ryozen,. The name “Kamaha” which means “Sickle Blade” got its name from the shape of the ridge with its steep sides. The castle was located near a major road called “Nakasendo”, which was conveniently located for battle making it easier for transportation as well.
The range of Omi Province and the location of the castle
城周辺の起伏地図
In the middle of the 16th Century, during the Sengoku Period, the Hori Clan was the ruler of the castle. The clan frequently changed their masters depending on the situation. In one instance, back in 1553, the Rokkaku Clan attacked Kamaha Castle, forcing the Hori Clan to escape, eventually surrendering the castle completely. However, the Hori Clan would eventually form an allegiance with the Azai Clan, most likely because the Azai Clan was gaining a lot of power at that time. Back in 1570, The Azai Clan fought Nobunaga Oda, where Hidemura Hori sided with Nobunaga who was easily persuaded by Hideyoshi Hashiba, the eventual ruler of Japan. This was the destiny of lord of the border castle.
The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Harsh Fate of Hidemura Hiri, Lord of Castle
Since Hidemura formed an allegiance with Hideyoshi, the Azai Clan were eventually beaten. Furthermore, Hideyoshi assisted Hidemura defend Kamaha Castle from an Azai Clan attack in 1571. This resulted in Nobunaga, Hidemura and Hideyoshi capturing Odani Castle (the home base of the Azai Clan) in 1573. A year later (in 1574) shortly after the succession, Hidemura was fired by Nobunaga due to Hidemura’s senior vassal’s failures. The primary reason for this is still unknown, but perhaps we can assume that this was purely the cruelty of Nobunaga’s character. Some historians speculate that there was a power imbalance since Hidemura was getting more powerful through his allegiance with Nobunaga. It was well-known that Hidemura accumulated more territory than Hideyoshi, who at the time was Nobunaga’s important retainer. Nobunaga might have the rebellion by Hidemura, or perhaps he wanted to take the territory for him. As the famous Chinese proverb goes “When the nimble rabbit dies, the hunting dog will be cooked”, so too was the fate of Hidemura. Finally, there is a strong belief by historians that Hidemura was hired by Hideyoshi and his brother Hidenaga in the end.
The ruins of Odani CastleThe portrait of Hidenaga Toyotomi, owned by Shungakuin Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Systems of Castle improved uniquely
Kamaha Castle was finally abandoned in 1575. Some historians assumed that because the castle was made of soil, and that it was inferior to other castles, that it was abandoned sooner than other castles. However, according to a more recent excavation, it was revealed that Kamaha Castle actually had an advance system compared to other mountain castles. Kamaha Castle had at least a 3-level large turret, like a Main Tower, in the northern enclosures of the castle. This turret was thought to be used by defenders who shot arrows against attackers, as well as a large ditch located in front of it. If attackers had the misfortune of getting stuck in the ditch, it would give a clear and perfect sight for the defenders. Many enclosures were surrounded by stone walls. Moreover, the main enclosure at the center of the castle had its entrance with a square space surrounded by stone walls and steps called “Koguchi”. These types of systems were seldom seen in castles that were built after Azuchi Castle which Nobunaba built back in 1579. Based on these findings, Kamaha Castle was truly more advance than Azuchi Castle.
The imaginary drawing of the large turret of Kamaha Castle, quoted from the Kamaha Castle Official SiteThe imaginary drawing of Azuchi Castle, exhibited by Gifu Castle Museum
On the other hand, there were some differences between Kamaha Castle and Azuchi Castle as well. The large turret in Kamaha Castle was placed on earthen walls, and not on stone walls. These stone walls supported the earthen walls which prevented them from collapsing. In the case of Azuchi Castle, its main tower was built on stone walls directly. The Koguchi entrance of Kamaha Castle was designed for the gate of the main hall, and not for defense. Koguchi entrances built after Azuchi Castle exhibited more defensive capabilities, combined with complex routes. Historian often speculate that the systems used in Kamaha Castle had been improved uniquely, but was eventually replaced with other systems which were first seen in Azuchi Castle. However, the design of Kamaha Castle ‘s large turret might have been used for the main towers of other castles. This is because Hideoyoshi who would eventually build Osaka Castle included its main tower, must have seen the large turret when he worked with Hidemura at Kamaha Castle.
The stone walls of Kamaha CastleThe stone wall base for the Main Tower of Azuchi CastleKoguchi entrance ruins of Kamaha CastleThe Kocuchi entrance of the Kurogane-mon Gate of Azuchi Castle
The home base of the Ii Clan, a senior vassal of the shogunate
Location and History
Shogunate sent Ii Clan to Important Military Base
Hikone Castle is located near Biwa Lake in Shiga Prefecture and considered as one of the most popular historical sites in Japan. It has its Main Tower which is one of the twelve remaining and the five national-treasure Main Towers in Japan. It also has five castle buildings which are designated as Important Cultural Properties. The main portion of the castle also remains in a good condition with the buildings above, stone walls, and other structures. Because of it, the castle site has been designated as a National Special Historic Site since 1956.
The remaining Main Tower of Hikone Castle, as a National TraesureThe Western Enclosure Three-level Turret of Hikone Castle, as an Important Cultural Property
After the Battle of Sekigahara between Ieyasu Tokugawa and Mitsunari Ishida in 1600, Ieyasu got the power as the ruler of Japan. Ieyasu promoted his senior vassal, Naomasa Ii to the lord of the territory beside Biwa Lake, which Mitsuanri had owned. Naomasa first lived a mountain castle called Sawayama Castle Mitsunari lived. However, Naomasa thought it was not enough because he needed a stronger and more convenient castle. The Toyotomi Clan was still at Osaka Castle and there were many lords in western Japan, who thought their master was Toyotomi, not Tokugawa. They might have gotten together and attacked the Tokugawa Shogunate which Ieyasu established in eastern Japan. Naomasa’s territory was located in the area which could avoid the attack to eastern Japan.
The location of the castle
The portrait of Naomasa Ii, owned by Hikone Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Castle is built as Construction Order by Shogunate
After Naomasa died in 1602, his young son, Naotsugu conducted the new castle’s location with Ieyasu. They finally decided to build it on a low mountain at 50m high near Biwa Lake, which would be called Hikone Castle. The castle was built as a construction order by the shogunate with help of over 10 other lords. In order to hurry to complete the construction, they used waste materials from other abandoned castles like Sawayama Castle. However, the construction continued long since 1603, as the scale of castle was huge.
Hikone Castle was built from the top to the foot of the mountain
The Main Tower, Main Hall and other turrets were built together, surrounded by stone walls, on the ridge of mountain to make it easy to protect. Deep ditches were dug around both edges of the ridge to avoid enemies’ invasions to the center of the castle. Moreover, five long-line stone walls were built along the slopes of the mountain to prevent the enemies from moving smoothly.
The main portion of the castle on the mountain, from the signboard at the siteThe large ditch in front of the Taiko-yagura TurretThe long-line stone walls behind the Main Gate
The mountain was surrounded by tripled water moats and the Main Gate was built behind them. The gate was open to the southwest direction towards Osaka Castle where the Toyotomi Clan lived. Seri-kawa River flowed out of the moats in this direction, so it could have been the forth moat.
The illustration of Hikone Castle and Town, exhibited by Hikone Castle MuseumThe past Main Gate drawn in the signboard at the siteThe present Main Gate Ruins
It becomes Castle for Peaceful Time
The castle was completed in 1622, about twenty years after its launch. However, the situation dramatically changed in 1615 during the construction. The Tokugawa Shogunate defeated the Toyotomi Clan in that year. After that, the construction was done only by the Hikone Domain building houses for living and government. As a result, the new Main Hall for the lord was built at the foot of the mountain on the opposite side of the Main Gate. The gate to the hall was called the Front Gate just like a new Main Gate. The castle town was also developed around the castle. They were either connected to Biwa Lake through waterways or ponds for water transportation.
The restored Main HallThe present Front Gate Ruins
Fortunately, no battles happened at Hikone Castle throughout the peaceful Edo Period. The lord of the castle, Ii Clan also played an important role in the central government as the head of hereditary feudal lords. Out of ten, five heads of the shogun’s council of elders came from the Ii Clan and it happened once in 265 years during that period. The most famous one is definitely Naosuke Ii at the end of the Edo Period. He decided to open more doors to foreign countries by signing the Treaty of Amity and Commerce between the US and Japan in 1858. However, he was unfortunately assassinated by the opposite Ronin outside the Sakurada-mon Gate of Edo Castle in 1860. This incident decreased the power and authority of the Tokugawa Shogunate and would be a trigger of the Meiji Restoration.
The portrait of Naosuke Ii, owned by Hikone Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)The Sakurada-mon Gate of Edo Castle
この城が、典型的な日本の城スタイルの始祖なのです。
This castle is the origin of typical Japanese castles.
安土城の大手道～The Main Street of Azuchi Castle
立地と歴史～Location and History
高くそびえる天守、高石垣の上には多くの櫓と漆喰の壁、大きな門構え、そして周りには水堀をたたえる・・・これらが我々の持つ日本の城の直感的なイメージですが、これらは安土城から始まっているのです。それぞれのパーツは以前の城にもありましたが、有力な戦国大名、織田信長がそれらを統合し、彼の城として表現したのでした。そして日本の城の歴史に決定的なインパクトを与えました。
A tall standing Tenshu keep, many turrets and plaster walls on high stone walls, large entrance gates, and water moats around… These are our intuitive images of Japanese castles come from Azuchi Castle. Though each part can be found in castles earlier than that, the great warlord Nobunaga Oda integrated and expressed them as his castle. It has definitely had a huge impact on the history of Japanese castles.
織田信長肖像画、狩野宗秀作、長興寺蔵、１６世紀後半～The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons）
信長は、日本の統一事業を進めていく中で、自らの本拠地を尾張国（現愛知県）から西の方へ最初は岐阜（現岐阜県）、そして安土（現滋賀県）に移していきました。
As Nobunaga increased his work of unifying Japan, he moved his home base from Owari Province (now Aichi Pref.) to the west, at first Gifu (now Gifu Pref.), and Azuchi (now Shiga Pref.).
信長の根拠地移動ルート～Nobunaga’s route for his home base
この地は中山道に沿って、琵琶湖に面しており水上交通に便利でした。安土は大体京都と岐阜の中間点に当たり、信長は緊急時には両方に駆け付けられました。
The site was along the Nakasendo Road and faced Biwa Lake which was useful for water transportation. Azuchi is around the middle point of Kyoto and Gifu, so Nobunaga could rush to both cities in emergency.
城周辺の航空写真～The aerial photo around the castle
江州安土古城図、国立国会図書館蔵、城の周りは湖と堀です～The map of old Azuchi Castle in Omi Province, owned by National Diet Library, Around the castle is the lake and the moat（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedeia Commons）
信長は１５７６年に、部下に対して高さ１９８ｍの安土山に城を築くよう命じました。彼は１５７９年５月から天主に住み始めました。実は、信長は普段から天主に住んでいた最初で最後の人物だと言われています。そこは彼にとって崇高で且つ権威そのものを表す場所だったようで、天主の中には滅多に他人を入れませんでした。信長はまた城下町を作り、人々に自由に商売と往来をさせ、これは「楽市楽座」と言われました。人々は大歓迎でこれを受け入れました。この当時はそれぞれの戦国大名がそれぞれの場所で高い税金をかけていたからです。 Nobunaga ordered his men to construct the castle on Mt. Azuchiyama which is 198m height, in 1576. He started to live in the Tenshu keep on May 1579. In fact, he is said to be the first and last person who usually lived in the Tenshu. It seemed to be spiritual and an authorization for him, so he rarely invited others to the inside of Tenshu. He also created the castle town below the castle and made people free to do business and transportation called “Rakuichi-Rakuza”. People welcomed it because each warlord charged high taxes on both of them in each place at that time.
安土山～Mt. Azuchiyama三重県伊勢市にある安土城の模擬天主～The imitation of Azuchi Castle Tenshu in Ise City, Mie Pref.（licensed by D-one via Wikimedia Commons）
ところが、この城は短命に終わりました。１５８２年、完成からわずか３年後、信長が京都で本能寺で殺されたとき、原因不明の火事で天主が焼け落ちます。その後、織田の一族がしばらくこの城を使いましたが、１５８５年に近くに八幡山城が新しくできたことで廃城となりました。 However, the castle had a short life. In 1582, just after three years from the completion, An unidentified fire burned the Tenshu when Nobunaga was killed at Honnoji Temple in Kyoto. After that, Oda’s relatives used the castle for a while, it was abandoned in 1585, as Hachimanyama Castle was newly built nearby.
安土城図、大阪城天守閣蔵～The illustration of Azuchi Castle, owned by Osaka Castle Museum（licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedeia Commons）
特徴～Features
現在、城跡は国の特別史跡に指定されています。この場所は総見寺が所有しています。入り口から広くまっすぐな「大手道」が山の上の方に伸びています。ここは最近発掘され復元されました。また、このような道の作り方は明らかに防御には不利なので、他の山城とは随分異なっています。
Now, the ruins of the castle are designated as a National Special Historic Site. The site belongs to Sokenji Temple. From the entrance, the wide and straight Main Street “Ote-Michi” leads up to the mountain. It was excavated and restored recently. It is also different from other mountain castles, because such a road is clearly a disadvantage for defenders.
城跡の入り口、かつてはこの周辺に水堀がありました～The entrance of the castle ruins, there were water moats around in the past大手道～The Main Street
歴史家の中には、信長はこの道を彼の都の大通りとしていたと推測する人もいますし、単にこの城の権威を示すものだという人もいます。いずれにしろ、天主はこの道から見えたはずですし、周りを信長の家臣の屋敷が取り囲んでいました。 Some historians speculate Nobunaga regarded it as the central street of his capital. Others argue it just showed the authority of the castle. Anyway, the Tenshu should have been seen from the street, with the halls of Nobunaga’s retainers along it.
安土城大手道周辺の想像図～The imaginary drawing of around the Main Street at Azuchi Castle（岐阜城展示室）
道は、山の中腹から曲がりくねり、「七曲り」と呼ばれます。そして城の主要部に向かっていきます。
The street gets zigzagged, called “Nana-Magari”, from the midslope of the mountain towards the main part of the castle.
道の七曲り部分～The zigzaged part of the street
主要部は黒金門から始まりますが、この門は巨石を使い、権威を見せつけています。
The main part starts from “Kurogane” Gate ruins which was made using huge stones for showing authority.
黒金門跡、The ruins of Kurogane Gate
次に来るのは二の丸跡で、信長の廟所があります。ここは元々一族の御殿があったかもしれない所です。 Next comes Ninomaru ruins where Nobunaga’s mausoleum remains, where his inner palace might have originally been.
二の丸にある信長の廟所～The mausoleum of Nobunaga Oda at Ninomaru
本丸は城の中心です。当時は多くの建物がひしめいていました。その一つは特に天皇のための宮殿だったと言われています。貴族の日記に天皇がこの城に行幸する予定があったと書いてあります。信長は天皇をそこに住まわせ、天主から見下ろし、自身の影響下におきたかったとも、そうではなくただの訪問だとも言われています。
Honmaru is the center of the castle. Many buildings were packed at that time. One of them is particularly said to be the palace for the Emperor. A noble’s diary says there was a plan of the Emperor’s visit to the castle. Some speculate Nobunaga tried to make the Emperor live in the palace and be under control ,looking down from Tenshu. Others say it was just a visit.
本丸跡～The ruins of Honmaru
天主は本丸のとなりに立っていました。天主台とその内側に礎石が残っています。 Tenshu stood next to Honmaru. The base remains where you can see cornerstones inside.
天主台の石垣～The stone walls of the Tenshu base天主台内の礎石～The cornerstones inside the Tenshu base天主台からの眺め、かつては琵琶湖が見えたはずです～A view from the base, it should be Biwa Lake in the past
帰りの道は「諸々橋」口と呼ばれていて、信長が設立した総見寺の元の敷地を通り過ぎます。この寺は江戸時代に火災に遭いましたが、三重塔などいつくか建物が残っています。ポルトガルからの宣教師ルイス・フロイスは、信長はこの寺を自身を崇拝させるために建立したと言いました。これもまた謎めいています。 On the return route called “Dodobashi” Route, you will pass the ruins of original Sokenji Temple that Nobunaga founded. The temple suffered a fire in the Edo Period, but several buildings like the three-story pagoda still remain. A missionary from Portugal, Luis Frois said Nobunaga created it to celebrate himself. That is also controversal.
現存している総見寺三重塔～The remaining three-story pagoda of Sokenji Temple（licensed by Haruno Akiha via Wikimedia Commons）
安土城郭資料館では、安土城天主の２０分の１スケールの模型を見ることができます。これは古文書、図面、発掘の成果から製作されました。この模型では、天主は５層の外観で、地階を含めて７階建てです。それぞれの階は違う形と色をしています。５階は赤色の八角形で内側は仏画が描かれ、最上階の６階は金色の四角形で古代中国の聖人が描かれています。 You can see the one-twentieth scale model of Azuchi Castle’s Tenshu keep at Azuchi Castle Museum. It was created based on old documents, drawings and excavation. According to this model, it had a five-layer appearance, and seven floors including the basement. Each floor had a different shape and color. The 5th floor was octagonal of red with Buddhist wall paintings inside, and the top 6th floor was square of gold with paintings of ancient legendary Chinese saints.
安土城天主のミニチュアモデル～The miniature model for Tenshu of Azuchi Castle（安土城郭資料館～Azuchi Castle Museum）
この両方の階の実寸大のレプリカが、信長の館で展示されています。 Both floors have been restored as the full scale replica at the House of Nobunaga.
信長の館にある天主５・６階のレプリカ～The replica of the 5th and 6th floors of Tenshu at the House of Nobunaga（taken by あけび from photoAC）
天主の地階から３階までは吹き抜けになっていて、地面には仏塔が設置してあったようです。これらは、信長の天主がとても象徴的かつ宗教的な存在であったことを示しています。 There was the stairwell inside Tenshu through BF to 3F, where the pagoda seemed to be set on the ground. These suggestions show Nobunaga’s Tenshu was very symbolic and religious.
ミニチュアモデルの吹き抜け部分～The stairwell part of the miniature modelミニチュアモデル内の仏塔～The pagoda in the miniature model
その後～Later Life
城跡の領域は、江戸時代の間ずっと総見寺に所有されていました。火事があった後、寺の建物は現在の大手道周辺に再建されました。そして寺の石垣がこの道を覆って築かれました。時が過ぎるにつれ、人々はその石垣が安土城のものと思うようになります。１９８９年に安土城の調査整備事業が開始され、２０年間続きました。その中で、寺の石垣の下にこのような広く長い通り道が発見され人々を驚かせたのです。総見寺は寺の石垣を撤去し、元の通りを復元することに協力しました。 The domain of the castle ruins was owned by Sokenji Temple all through the Edo Period. After the fire, the temple buildings were rebuilt around what is now Ote-michi street. They made their own stone walls across the street. As time has passed by, people got used to thinking the stone walls might come from Azuchi Castle. The investigation and development project for Azuchi Castle Ruins started in 1989. It lasted for 20 years. People were surprised to see that such a wide, long street was discovered under the stone walls. The temple cooperated to remove their stone walls and restore the original street.
発見された大手道～The discovered Main Street
安土城考古博物館では、この事業の成果を見ることができます。 Azuchi Castle Archaeological Museum shows the achievement of the project.
安土城考古博物館～Azuchi Castle Archaeological Museum（licensed by 663highland via Wikimedia Commons）
私の感想～My Impression
安土城は、私の最も好きな日本の城の一つです。この城は信長の考え方を直接表していると思うからです。信長はときに過酷と言われますが、彼は当時の常識に対して自らの信念を貫いたと思うのです。しかし、彼の思想は歴史家の議論を経てもなお謎のままです。ですので、ここに来て、何かを感じ、自分で考えてみることが大事です。 Azuchi Castle is one of my most favorite castles in Japan, because the castle must directly show Nobunaga’s way of thinking. While Nobunaga is sometimes said to be cruel, I think he kept his faith against the common sense of that time. However, his basic idea is still mysterious after historians’ discussions. So it is important to come there , feel something, and think by yourself.
天主ミニチュアモデルの上部～The top of the Tenshu miniature model（安土城郭資料館～Azuchi Castle Museum）
ここに行くには～How to get There
車で行く場合は、名神自動車道の八日市ＩＣか竜王ＩＣから約３０分かかります。先程ご紹介した城跡と博物館に駐車場があります。 電車の場合は、レンタル自転車を使うことをお勧めします。城跡と博物館が点在しているからです。ＪＲ安土駅の前に２件のレンタル店があります。そこに荷物を預けることもできます。 東京から安土駅まで：東海道新幹線で米原駅まで行き、ＪＲ琵琶湖線に乗り換えてください。 大阪から安土駅まで：大阪か新大阪駅からＪＲ京都線に乗ってください。 If you want to go there by car, it takes about 30 minutes from the Yokaichi IC or the Ryuo IC on Meishin Expressway. The ruins and the museums mentioned above offer a parking lot. When using train, I recommend you to use a rental bicycle, because the ruins and the museums are spread out. There are two rental bicycle shops in front of JR Azuchi Station. You can also leave your baggage there. From Tokyo to Azuchi st.: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen superexpress to Maibara station, and transfer for JR Biwako line. From Osaka to Azuchi st.: Take the train on JR Kyoto line from Osaka or Shin-Osaka station.
