23.Odawara Castle Part1

Odawara was supposed to be the capital of five generations of the Hojo Clan. The city is now supposed to be a popular tourist spot near Hakone hot spring. Odawara Castle first started as a small one in a new post town. The castle eventually grew under the rules of the Hojo Clan to one of the greatest castles during the Sengoku Period. It was finally turned into an important castle at the western edge of the Kanto Region during the Edo Period. The castle was located at the same place through all its life while it changed a lot, which is a very rare case. This article will focus on the history of the castle until the Sengoku Period.

Odawara was supposed to be the main castle for the five generations of the Hojo Clan. The city is now supposed to be a popular tourist spot near Hakone hot spring. Odawara Castle first started as a small one in a new transportation hub. The castle eventually grew under the rules of the Hojo Clan to one of the greatest castles during the Sengoku Period. It was finally turned into an important castle at the western edge of the Kanto Region during the Edo Period. The castle was located at the same place through all its life while it changed a lot, which is a very rare case. This article will focus on the history of the castle until the demise of The Hojo Clan during the Sengoku Period.

The current Odawara Castle, this main tower was rebuilt according to that during the Edo Period

Location and History (until Sengoku Period)

Beginning of the Castle and the Appearance of Sozui Ise

In the ancient time, passengers, who went to the Kanto Region from western Japan, didn’t often use the Hakone Route, but used the Ashigara Route instead. However, they eventually used the Hakone Route when some shrines near the route became more popular. Odawara was first formed as a transportation hub for the passengers not later than the 14th Century. On the other hand, Odawara Castle was thought to be built in the middle of the 15th Century. The Omori Clan, the first lord of the castle, built it in order to collect taxes from the passengers. For this reason, the castle was still small during its early stage.

The location of the castle

As for the location of the castle, it was said that it was first situated at Hachimanyama old enclosure, which is the north of the current Odawara Castle, and further away from the transportation hub. Considering the purpose of the castle, it may have been at the same place as the current one, or at Tenjinyama Hill, closer to the town.

The Hachimanyama old enclosure
The current Tenjinyama Hill

In the beginning of the Sengoku Period, a man named Sozui Ise, became one of the biggest heroes at that time, and later would become a legend. According to the legend, he started only as a Ronin, but eventually became a great warlord, through his own excellent talent. This has been recognized as a big success story of “Gekokujo” which means “giant killer”. However, in recent studies, it was discovered that he was originally a shogunal military guard called Moritoki Ise. He went to Sunpu, which is the current Shizuoka City, to help his sister who was in a dispute about the succession. She was the wife of the Imagawa Clan’s previous lord and wanted her son to be the successor but had to compete with another candidate.

A copy of the portrait of Sozui Ise, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Sozui (Moritoki) succeeded in the son’s victory. He got Kokokuji Castle as an award of his contribution, which was the beginning of his real success story. The legend also says that Sozui drove the Omori Clan, which was the lord family of Odawara Castle, out from the castle, by tactics known as “Kagyu-no-kei”. Kagyu-no-kei refers to attacking enemies’ bases by using cows with lit torches on their horns. It was said that the statics had been done since the start of ancient China. However, the recent studies argue that it’s not that simple. According to a historical record, Sozui’s brother and the Omori Clan were actually on the same side at Odawara Castle and were defeated by the Uesugi Clan. Historians speculate that Sozui got Odawara Castle when they became enemies, or the castle was damaged because of a huge earthquake around 1500. Sozui was probably not only a hero, but also a practical man and a good negotiator. The castle was still a branch castle even after Sozui got it.

The ruins of Kokokuji Castle
The statue of Sozui at Odawara Station, attacking by Kagyu-no-kei

Improvement of the Castle by Ujitsuna and Ujiyasu Hojo

Sozui’s successor was his son, Ujitsuna Hojo, who was the second generation of the Hojo Clan. However, Ujitsuna was the person who changed his family name from Ise to Hojo. Therefore, Sozui Ise’s well-known alternate name Soun Hojo did not exist while he was alive. Soun was his Dharma name (this is the name given after the person dies). The reason for the change of the family name would be to go against the authority of the Uesugi Clan, the Hojo’s enemy. The Uesugi Clan looked down on the Hojo Clan because they were outlaws from another province. The Hojo Clan needed to improve their own authority in order to attract the local lords by using their new family name. “Hojo” had been the family name of the vice-Shoguns during the Kamakura Shogunate. Ujitsuna also moved his clan’s home to Odawara Castle.

The portrait of Ujitsuna Hojo, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ujitsuna’s son, Ujiyasu Hojo was the third generation of the clan. He managed to increase the clan’s territories in the southern Kanto Region, particularly after the victory of the battle of Kawagoe Castle against the Uesugi Clan in 1546. Odawara Castle and its town were becoming the center of the region. The original small transportation hub was turned into the castle town, being as large as that during the Edo Period. The Odawara Water Supply System was installed in the castle and the town. It is said to be one of the earliest water supply systems in Japan. As for the castle itself, the main portion of the castle was built, such as the current main and second enclosures. A priest, who visited Odawara Castle in 1551, recorded that there was a large pond surrounding the castle in three different directions. Part of the pond remains as the moat of the current second enclosure.

A copy of the portrait of Ujiyasu Hojo, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The current Odawara Water Supply System
The moat of the current second enclosure

The first big crisis happened to Odawara Castle in 1561. Kenshin Uesugi invaded the Kanto Region from his home of Echigo Province, which is currently Nigata Prefecture, in order to revive his clan. Kenshin sieged Odawara Castle with his allies and over 100 thousand soldiers the following February (according to the luna calendar). However, the attackers withdrew soon as they did not prepare for a long siege. Ujiyasu Hojo, who was the lord of the clan, avoided fighting against Kenshin but waited patiently for the withdrawal. After Kenshin went back to his home, Ujiyasu got the territories and the retainers in the region back to the same side.

The portrait of Kenshin Uesugi, owned by the Uesugi Shrine (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

The second crisis occurred in October 1569 (according to the luna calendar). Shingen Takeda from Kai Province, which is currently Yamanashi Prefecture, invaded the Hojo’s territories and reached Odawara Castle on the 1st of October. Shingen first attacked the main gate, called Hasuike-mon (which means lotus-pond gate), and set the castle town on fire. Shingen’s troops also torched the hall of Ujimasa Hojo, Ujiyasu’s successor. Shingen stayed at Odawara for only five days and returned to his home. However, these two crises had a big impact on the Hojo Clan, especially on Ujimasa. When he followed his father’s position, he started to fortify Odawara Castle more and more. He probably thought that if he could build a castle that could withstand a long siege, no enemies would ever destroy it.

The portrait of Shingen Takeda, owned by Jimyo-in, in the 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Ujimasa Hojo, owned by Odawara Castle (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
Goyomai Enclosure, where Ujimasa’s hall was built

Completion of the Castle by Ujimasa and Ujinao Hojo

The Hojo Clan reached its peak in the period of Ujimasa and his successor, Ujinao. This was because Kenshin died in 1578 and the power of the Takeda Clan decreased. The Hojo ruled most of the Kanto Region and built the network of their branch castles to maintain their government. Odawara Castle became the center of it. Ujimasa also fortified the castle. For example, the third enclosure was built on a plain land around the second enclosure. After that, the outer third enclosure was also built on a hill behind the main portion of the castle. They were constructed to protect the castle from potential enemies attacking it from the front and from the back. Furthermore, a large ditch was built to separate the highest hill around the castle, called Komine-Okane-no-dai, next to the outer third enclosure. All of them were made using soil. It was dug to create very steep moats and was mounded to make high earthen walls. The soil around the area came from volcanic ash, which is called Kanto loam layer. It’s naturally slimy, which made enemies slipped when they walk on the surface. The bottoms of the moats were also partitioned forming many square partitions, called Shoji-bori (which means sliding paper door-moat) and Une-bori (which means hilling-moat). If enemies fell to the bottom, they would be trapped and would never be able to escape from it.

The portrait of Ujinao Hojo, owned by Hounji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The outer third enclosure
The large ditch at Komine-Okane-no-dai Hill
The Shoji-bori system in Yamanaka Castle

The development of the castle was related to the situation of the whole country and the diplomatic relations with other warlords. When Nobunaga Oda defeated the Takeda Clan in 1582, the Hojo was forced to be subordinate to Nobunaga. However, Nobunaga was killed during the Honnoji Incident in the same year. The Hojo, Tokugawa, Uesugi Clans battled each other in order to get the former territory of the Takeda Clan. A retainer of the Takeda Clan, the Sanada Clan gained power in order to be an independent lord by interrupting them. As time passed, Hideyoshi Toyotomi became the next ruler, ordering all the lords to stop fighting for themselves. Ujimasa ignored this new movement while other lords followed Hideyoshi by 1587. Ujimasa started a negotiation to serve the Hideyoshi side as well as the following year. One of the problems for the negotiation was about the Numata territory. There has been a dispute as to who was the true owner of the territory, between The Hojo Clan and Sanda Clan. Ujimasa asked Hideyoshi to resolve it. Hideyoshi’s decision was to give two thirds of the territory to the Hojo Clan and the other third to the Sanada Clan.

The portrait of Nobunaga Oda, attributed to Soshu Kano, owned by Chokoji Temple, in the late 16th century (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The portrait of Masayuki Sanada, privately owned (licensed under Public Domain, via Wikimedia Commons)
The Portrait of Ieyasu Tokugawa, attributed to Tanyu Kano, owned by Osaka Castle Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Portrait of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attributed to Mitsunobu Kano, owned by Kodaiji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

On the other hand, Ujimasa continued to fortify Odawara Castle in case the negotiations broke down. The highlight of it was to surround the entire area of Odawara including the castle, the town and the hills behind them. This was done by building moats and earthen walls, whose perimeter was about 9km long. This structure is generally called So-gamae (which means outermost enclosure). Ujimasa probably thought that enemies would never enter Odawara, because of this long perimeter, called So-gamae structure.

The red line shows the estimated line of So-gamae structure

The imaginary drawing of the So-gamae structure, from the signboard at the site

In October of 1589 (according to the luna calendar), an incident happened at the Numata territory. The Sanada Clan argued to Hideyoshi that the Hojo Clan forcibly got Nagurumi Castle on the Sanada’s side. This angered Hideyoshi and he finally decided to destroy the Hojo Clan completely. However, there are several questionable points about the incident. Some historians point out that It might have come from a deception of Hideyoshi and the Sanada Clan. Anyway, the battle between them may have been necessary. Hideyoshi wanted more territories to give to his retainers while Ujimasa didn’t want to surrender to Hideyoshi so easily. The So-gamae structure was eventually completed after the two-year constructions before the battle would happen.

The ruins of Nagurumi Castle

Battle of Odawara

In March of 1590 (according to the luna calendar), about 220,000 of soldiers, led by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, rushed into the Hojo’s territories. The number of the Hojo’s defenders was said to be about 80,000. About 50,000 of them were in Odawara Castle. The Hojo Clan probably expected that their enemies would be weakened by the network of the Hojo’s branch castles before they reached Odawara Castle. If they sieged the castle in poor conditions, the Hojo Clan could make peace with them in better conditions. However, most of the Hojo’s soldiers were drafted farmers, nor were they experienced, nor were they trained, and nor were they motivated. The battles occurred on the 28th of March at Matsuida Castle in Kozuke Province (which is currently Gunma Prefecture), and on the 29th at Yamanaka and Nirayama Castles near Odawara. Surprisingly, Yamanaka Castle, which had strong defensive systems like Shoji-bori, was captured in less than one day by the overwhelmingly powerful military force of the Toyotomi side. After that, the castles’ network of the Hojo side eventually collapsed. As a result, only 5 out of tens of the branch castles survived at the end of May. That was the first miscalculation for the Hojo Clan.

The network system of the Hojo’s castles, from the signboard at the site

The Toyotomi’s troops reached Odawara Castle as early as in the beginning of April, surrounding the castle with about 180,000 soldiers. Hideyoshi launched the construction of his new stronghold, which would be called Ishigakiyama Castle, within the month. However, even with huge troops, they were not able to enter the castle, because they were blocked by the So-gamae structure. The structure was 30m wide at max and over 10m deep, with its slope at over 50 degrees. On the other hand, the Hojo side also miscalculated the features of the Toyotomi’s troops. Many of them were professionals and were equipped with enough supply systems. That meant they could survive in their battlefield for a very long time. They reached a much higher level in the combat than those of the Uesugi and Takeda Clans earlier on. As a result, the attackers and the defenders faced each other across the So-gamae structure in April and May.

The war map of Odawara Castle, from the signboard at the site

On the 5th of June, Masamune Date, who was the greatest warlord of the Tohoku Region, arrived at Odawara to serve Hideyoshi. That made the Hojo Clan know that no supporters would help them. The negotiation between the Toyotomi and Hojo sides started behind the scenes. Ujimasa’s successor, Ujinao Hojo was in charge of it. In Japanese, there is a figurative expression called “Odawara Hyojo” which means an inconclusive long conference. People generally think the Hojo didn’t know what to do during the siege. The fact might have been different from it. As time passed, four of the five surviving branch castles were captured in June. Only Oshi Castle was bearing being sieged by the Toyotomi troops like Odawara Castle. Ishigakiyama Castle, which had great stone walls, was completed on the 26th of June as Hideyoshi’s stronghold. Its appearance may have threatened the defenders of Odawara Castle, just a few kilometers away from it.

The portrait of Masamune Date owned by Sendai City Museum (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The ruins of Ishigakiyama Caslte

Ujinao finally surrendered to Hideyoshi on the 5th of July. It was said that the negotiation may have included a few territories reserved for the Hojo Clan. However, the decision of Hideyoshi, who completed his unification of Japan, was too strict to allow it. The four leaders of the Hojo side, including Ujimasa, were forced to do Harakiri. Even Ujinao, who made peace with Hideyoshi, was eventually expelled to Koyasan Temple. The Hojo Clan lost everything they had had. Some say that the decision had been planned from the beginning. The territorial allocation after the Battle of Odawara was as followed. Ieyasu Tokugawa moved from around the current Shizuoka Prefecture to the Kanto Region the Hojo Clan had had. Nobukatsu Oda, who was Nobunaga’s son but followed Hideyoshi, was also fired by Hideyoshi due to his rejection to move to Ieaysu’s previous territory. Hideyoshi gave the large vacant territories to his successor, Hidetsugu and his retainers. The satisfied retainers would monitor the actions of Ieyasu who was a potential enemy for Hideyoshi, killing two birds with one stone. In addition, the Sanada Clan got all of the Numata territory after the battle. Were they all coincidental?

The grave of Ujimasa Hojo, near Odawara Station

The Hojo Clan declined but Odawara Castle with the So-gamae structure was very effective against the attackers. For example, it was recorded that Kazuuji Nakamura, who owned Sunpu Castle, built So-gamae structure for his castle, too. In fact, Hideyoshi Toyotomi also built very long earthen walls to surround Kyoto, called O-doi, whose perimeter was about 23 km long. It was recently discovered that the walls had the Shoji-bori system. Hideyoshi also improved his home, Osaka Castle by building So-gamae structure from 1594. Some other lords, who joined the Battle of Odawara, built their own So-gamae as well, probably influenced by Odawara Castle.

The current Sunpu Castle
The restored stone walls of Osaka Castle, used in its So-gamae structure

To be continued in “Odawara Castle Part2”

29.Matsumoto Castle Part1

Matsumoto Castle is located in Matsumoto City, Nagano Prefecture, which is known for its wonderful remaining five-level Main Tower. Matsumoto Basin, in which the city is located, has also been known for abundant springs flowing from the surrounding mountains since Ancient Times (we can still see many wells in the city area).

Location and History

Ogasawara Clan is driven away from Castle, but is waiting for their long-cherished plan to revive

Matsumoto Castle is located in Matsumoto City, Nagano Prefecture, which is known for its wonderful remaining five-level Main Tower. Matsumoto Basin, in which the city is located, has also been known for abundant springs flowing from the surrounding mountains since Ancient Times (we can still see many wells in the city area). That’s why the area was originally called “Fukase” or “Fukashi” which seem to have meant “waters running deep”. The Ogasawara Clan, which became the governor of Shinano Province (now Nagano Pref.), was based in this area during the Middle Ages. Many battles occurred during the Sengoku Period, and Ukon Shimadate, who was a retainer of the clan, built Fukashi Castle (the former Matsumoto Castle) in 1504 to protect the clan’s home, Hayashi Castle. However, they were driven away by the Takeda Clan in 1550, following the Siege of Fukashi.

The range of Matsumoto City and the location of the castle

A well in the city area (at Nishibori Park)
Another well maybe naneless

The Takeda Clan fortified Fukashi Castle to be a defensive stronghold even on the flat lands of the basin. The clan had the castle surrounded by tripled water moats. The lands inside the moats were called (from the center) the main, second, and third enclosures. The flow of the Metoba River was diverted to run alongside the outer moat, which made the castle more defensive. The clan also improved the gates of the castle by adding Umadashi systems in front of them. The system refers to a small round enclosure connected by a narrow path to the gate. It was a defense system created and frequently used by the clan. It was said that the basic structures of the castle was completed by the Takeda Clan. However, the castle was still basically made of soil at this point.

The miniature model of Matsumoto Castle during the Edo Period, exhibited by Matsumoto City Museum
The few remaining outer moat of the eastern part of the castle
The few remaining earthen walls inside the outer moat, at Nishibori-dorui (the western moat earthen walls) Park
The Metoba River
One of the Umadashi systems in the miniature model above, however, they were all removed at the site

A chance for the Ogasawara Clan to revive suddenly came in 1582 when Nobunaga Oda defeated the Takeda Clan before he was also killed by Mitsuhide Akechi in the Honnoji Incident. Sadayoshi Ogasawara who served Ieyasu Tokugawa returned to Fukashi Castle the following year – for the first time in 33 years, his clan held the castle. He renamed the castle Matsumoto to celebrate the event. The new name was said to come from waiting (matsu) for his long-cherished plan (hon-kai, the Chinese symbol for “hon” is also pronounced “moto”). However, the situation rapidly changed. He and his master, Ieyasu were transferred to the Kanto Region in 1590 by the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi. Hideyoshi gave the castle to Kazumasa Ishikawa who had been a senior vassal of Ieyasu but was acquired by Hideyoshi.

The family crest of the Ogasawara Clan, called Sankaibishi (triple diamonds) (licensed by Minamoto at fr.wikipedia via Wikimedia Commons)
Kazumasa Ishikawa, drawn in the folding screens of “the Battle of Nagashino” (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)

Ishikawa Clan modernizes Castle by building Main Tower

Kazumasa started to modernize the castle using advanced techniques favoured by Hideyoshi, which was continued by his son, Yasunaga after Kazumasa’s death in 1592. Yasunaga built stone walls surrounding each enclosures, including the five-level Main Tower inside the main enclosure. He also replaced the Umadashi system of major gates with the Masugata system. The system refers to a defensive square space surrounded by stone walls and gated buildings. The gates were called Ote-mon (main gate) for the third enclosure, Taiko-mon (drum gate) for the second enclosure, and Kuro-mon (black gate) for the main enclosure. They were completed in 1594. However, local people suffered because of these rapid construction projects. A local legend says that when a worker, who had carried a huge stone for the Taiko-mon Gate, complained about it, Yasunaga heard about it and immediately executed him. Since then, the stone has been called Genba-ishi(stone). Genba was the name of Yasunaga’s official position.

The map around the castle

The main gate in the miniature model above, Metoba River is in front of it
The current main gate ruins
The restored Taiko-mon Gate
The Genba-ishi stone in the gate
The restored Kuro-mon Gate

The castle buildings were allowed to use roof tiles with gold leaf with the special permission of Hideyoshi. Such permission was only given to Hideyoshi’s relatives and trusted senior vassals. Other castles of the trusted vassals, which also used the golden roof tiles, were built around Ieyasu’s Kanto Region in places such as Komoro, Ueda, Kofu, Numata, and Sumpu Castle. These castles (including Matsumoto) formed the anti-Ieyasu network to monitor and threaten him. Yasumasa somehow survived even when Ieyasu gained power after Hideyoshi’s death (the golden roof tiles were then scraped). However, he was finally removed by Ieyasu in 1613. The reasons for this remain unclear, but it was possibly Ieyasu’s revenge against the Ishikawa Clan which had abandoned him.

The castles of anti-Ieyasu network

The ruins of Komoro Castle
The ruins of Ueda Castle
The ruins of Kofu Castle
The ruins of Numata Castle
The ruins of Sunpu Castle

Castle is completed with building Tsukimi Turret

After that, the Ogasawara Clan returned to the castle again but were soon transferred to Akashi Castle in 1617. The castle and the area around it, called the Matsumoto Domain, were followed by the shogun’s relatives and several hereditary feudal lords during the Edo Period. There were also a few important subsequent events for the castle. One of them occurred when Naomasa Matsudaira lived there. He heard about a plan of the shogun, Iemitsu Tokugawa, to visit the castle (though it would be canceled later) and added a new turret called Tsukimi (seeing the moon) Yagura to the Main Tower in 1634. So far, the tower had entirely been designed with battles in mind. This turret, however, was completely built for entertainment. The tower became what we see now, influenced by different tastes.

The portrait of Naomasa Matsudaira, owned by Gesshoji Temple (licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons)
The Tsukimi Turret (appearance)
The Tsukimi Turret (interior)
The Main Tower with the Tsukimi Turret on the right

The second occurred during the great fire of Matsumoto in 1727. The Main Hall next to the tower was burned down by the fire; the tower itself fortunately survived. People thought that a god called Nijurokuyashin (the god of the 26th night moon), which was worshiped in the tower, had saved it. In addition, the castle town prospered as the intersection of the Zenkoji Road (from north to south) and the Nomugi Road (from east to west). The town also had many guardhouses to make sure to prevent enemies from reaching the castle easily.

The ruins of the main enclosure main hall
The Nijurokuyashin God, which is still worshiped in the tower
The castle town in the miniature model above
A guardhouse in the model

To be continued in “Matsumoto Castle Part2”

41.駿府城(Sunpu Castle)

駿府城は、徳川家康ゆかりの城としてその姿を取り戻しつつあります。
Sunpu Castle is returning to a castle associated with Ieyasu Tokugawa.

復元された駿府城東御門、背景は静岡県庁舎別館(The restored Higashi-Gomon of Sunpu Castle, the background is the Shizuoka Prefectural Government Office)

Location and History

徳川幕府の創始者である徳川家康は、昔は駿府といった現在の静岡市に3回住んでいました。最初は少年期に、今川氏の人質として過ごしました。2回目は壮年期に東海地方の戦国大名として、最後は熟年期に日本の支配者としてでした。今川氏の館が同じ場所にあったと言われており、そのため家康が人質としてそこに送られたのです。
Ieyasu Tokugawa, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate lived three times in Sunpu which is the old name of Shiuoka City. The first time was in his childhood when he lived there as a hostage under the Imagawa clan. The second one was in his middle age as a warlord in the Tokai region, and the last one was in his old age as the ruler of Japan. It is said that the hall of the Imagawa clan was there, that’s why Tokugawa was sent to the castle as a hostage.

駿府城公園の徳川家康像(The statue of Ieyasu Tokugawa in Sunpu Castle Park)taken by 松波庄九郎 from photo AC

家康は、駿府が首府であった駿河国を手に入れた後、1589年に最初の天守とともに新しく駿府城を建設しました。しかし、ほどなく豊臣氏の命により関東地方に移されてしまいました。代わりに豊臣配下の中村一氏が駿府城に入り、家康の天守を別のものに置き替え、家康への対抗姿勢を示しました。
Tokugawa built a new Sunpu Castle with the first “Tenshu” keep in 1589 after he took over Suruga Province where Sunpu was the capital. But he was soon transferred to the Kanto region by the Toyotomi clan. Instead, the Kazuuji Nakamura under Toyoyomi came to the castle and replaced Tokugawa’s Tenshu with another one against Tokugawa.

中村一氏像、東京大学史料編纂所蔵(The portrait of Kazuuji Nakamura, owned by Tokyo University)licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons

最終的には家康は再び駿府に戻り、1607年に城の大改修を行います。最盛期には、駿府城は三重の堀に囲まれていました。三代目の天守は、日本で最大の天守台の上にありました。そして数多くの櫓や門が、西の豊臣氏との戦いに備えて築かれました。家康は、1615年に豊臣氏を滅ぼし、1616年にこの城で亡くなります。その後、幕府は長年にわたって駿府とこの城を支配しました。
Finally, Tokugawa returned to Sunpu again, and renovated the castle in 1607. At its peak, it was surrounded by triple moats. The third Tenshu keep had the largest stone base in Japan, and many turrets and gates prepared for fighting with Toyotomi clan in the west direction. Tokugawa died at this castle in 1616 after he had beaten Toyotomi clan in 1615. After that, the Shogunate directly governed Sunpu and the castle for many years.

駿州府中之城図家康公縄張、岡崎市立図書館蔵(The layout of Sunpu Castle by Ieyasu Tokugawa, owned by Okazaki City Library)licensed under Public Domain via Wikimedia Commons

不幸にして1635年に大火が起こり、城を焼いてしまいました。火事の後、「東御門」「巽櫓」「坤櫓」といった施設は再建されましたが、天守は再建されず、天守台だけが残りました。
Unfortunately there was a big fire in 1635 which burned the castle down. After the fire, facilities such as the East Gate “Higashi Gomon”, the South-East turret “Tatusmi Yagura” and the South-West turret “Hitsuji-Saru Yagura” were rebuilt, but Tenshu was not rebuilt, only its base remained.

現在復元された巽櫓(左)と東御門(右)、大火の後再建された建物を元にしている(The current restored Tatsumi-Yagura(left) and Higashi-Gomon(right), based on the buildings rebuilt after the fire)

江戸時代末期になって、駿府城は東西対立の中で再度重要な存在となりました。この城は新政府軍の本陣となり、ここから幕府との間で江戸城と将軍の扱いについて交渉が行われました。
At the end of the Edo Period, Sunpu Castle regained its importance in the East-West confrontation. The castle became the stronghold of the New Government Military which negotiated the treatment of Edo Castle and the Shogun with the Shogunate.

駿府城近くにある西郷隆盛・山岡鉄舟会見の地跡(The site of the meeting between Takamori Saigo and Tesshu Yamaoka near Sunpu Castle)licensed by Halowand via Wikimedeia Commons

Features

現在、静岡市当局はこの城跡を史跡として再生することに取り組んでいます。最近になって城跡の名前が、元の駿府公園から駿府城公園に変更されました。更には東御門、巽櫓、そして坤櫓が残っている詳細図面や発掘の成果から、オリジナルの木造建築により復元されました。
Now, Shizuoka City officials are trying to recreate the castle ruins as a historic site. They have renamed the ruins from the former name Sunpu Park to the Sunpu-Castle Park recently. They have also restored Higashi Gomon, Tatsumi Yagura and Hitsuji-Saru Yagura in the original wooden style based on their remaining detailed drawing and excavation.

復元された東御門と巽櫓(The restored Higashi-Gomon and Tatsumi-Yagura)
復元された坤櫓(The restored Hitsujisaru-Yagura)taken by アド・ミラー from photo AC

市は、どのように公園を再構成し、また天守を再建すべきか、歴史家や専門家に諮問しています。現時点の答申は、まず最初に天守台を復元すること、そしてしばらく様子を見るというものでした。それは、天守の詳細が不明であり、再建には莫大な予算が必要だからです。現在、天守台の再建に向けて行われている発掘現場を見ることができます。そこでは二代目の中村氏の天守と、三代目の徳川氏の天守の遺跡が混在しています。大変興味深いものです。
They are consulting with historians and specialists about how they should reorganize the park and rebuild the Tenshu keep. Their answer right now is that they should restore the base of Tenshu first, and wait for a while. That’s because the details of it are unclear, and rebuilding it requires a huge budget. You can now see the excavation site of Tenshu prepared for the rebuilding of the base. There are mixed stone ruins both from the second Nakamura and the third Tokugawa periods.
That’s fascinating.

天守の発掘現場(The excavation saite of Tehchu)
こちら側が徳川の石、向こう側が中村の石(The near side is Tokugawa’s stones, the other is Nakamura’s)

Later Life

明治維新後、城の全ての建物が撤去され、静岡市は城跡を公園として使いました。しかし、市は明治中期に至り、公園を軍用地として提供する決断をしました。そして陸軍歩兵第34連隊が1897年から1945年の間、基地として使用しました。結果として、残っていた天守台は完全に破壊され、多くの堀がその残土により埋められました。この一帯は、二重、三重目を囲む堀と石垣を除き、平地になってしまいました。
After the Meiji Restoration, all the buildings of the castle were demolished, and Shizuoka City used the ruins as a park. But the city decided to offer the park for the ground for a military base in mid Meiji. The 34th infantry regiment used the base between 1897 and 1945. As a result, the remaining Tenshu base was completely destroyed and many moats were filled with waste. The area became plain-looking without part of the second and third concentric moats and their stone walls

現在の駿府城の航空写真(An aerial photo of the present Sunpu Castle)


内堀もわずかですが復元されています。(A few inner moats are restored)

第二次世界大戦後、城跡は再び公園となり「駿府公園」と名付けられました。現在静岡市は市民との絆を深めるため、家康を新たなシンボルとして模索しているようです。
After the World War II, the ruins of the castle became a park again called “Sunpu Park”. The city seems to be looking for a new symbol of Tokugawa to strengthen ties with its citizens.

堀から発見された家康時代の鯱(The grampus in Ieyasu’s era which was discovered from a moat)

My Impression

市民や観光客のために歴史公園を増やしたい気持ちはわかります。当方としても元通りの城の建物を本当に見てみたいです。しかし、一体どこまでやればよいのでしょう。市のシンボルとして天守を再建することが本当に必要でしょうか。過ぎたるは及ばざるがごとし。答えは一つではないのですが、過去に起こった軍用地の一件の中に潜んでいるような気もします。
I can see why they want to increase the number of historical parks for citizens and tourists. I am really pleased to see the buildings of castles restored like the original ones. But, how far will they go with that? Is it really necessary to rebuild the Tenshu as the city symbol? More than enough is too much. Though there is not one answer, it might be an answer in the case of the military base in the past.

再建された巽櫓の内部(The inside of the restored Tatsumi-Yagura)

How to get There

JR静岡駅から歩いて約15分です。
東京から静岡駅まで:東海道新幹線に乗って、直接静岡駅に到着します。
It takes about 15 minutes on foot from the JR Shizuoka station.
From Tokyo to the station: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen super express direct to Shizuoka st.

Links and References

駿府城公園(Sunpu Castle Park)
・大御所徳川家康と駿府城公園、田中省三著(Japanese Book)