59.Himeji Castle Part2

The castle and the town are united as one.

Features (From Himeji Station to the Main Towers)

When you go out of the north (Himeji-jo) exit of Himeji Stataion, you can see the Main Towers towards the main street in front of the station in the distance. You get the feeling that the castle and the town are united as one. The Outer Moat was built around this area. The Main Towers are still over 1.5 km away. On the way to the castle along the street, you will see the stone walls of Nakanomon Gate Ruins on the left, where the Middle Moat existed. The area around there has become the city area now, but the street looks like the approach to the castle.

The aerial photo around the castle

Himeji Castle that can be seen from Himeji Station
The ruins of Nakanomon Gate

Soon, you will reach the front of the Inner Moat. The inside of the moat is the main portion of the castle called “Naikaku”. The Main Gate called Sakura-mon is the entrance of Naikaku, which is accessible after walking across the bridge. The gate was once demolished but was restored. You can see a large empty square called the Third Enclosure where many halls once stood. You can now get to see the Main Towers on Himeyama mountain up close.

The restored Sakura-mon Gate (the Main Gate)
The Third Enclosure Square
The Main Tower on Himeyama Mountain

The ticket office is at the back of the square. After buying the ticket, you will enter Hishinomon Gate, the entrance of the Second Enclosure. You can go to both the Main Towers on Himeyama mountain and Nishinomaru Enclosure on Sagiyama mountain from the gate because it is located in the valley between the mountains. Inside the gate, you can also see Sangokubori Moat which is said to once be a water reservoir. The Main Towers start to look bigger.

Hishinomon Gate
Sangokubori Moat  (taken by わゆすけ from photoAC)
The Main Tower is looking bigger

To reach the Main Towers, you will need to go through many gates in front of you. In fact, the shortcuts to the Main Towers are set on the right of Sangokubori Moat, but the routes can be hard to find for visitors. That meant enemies could be led to the difficult route easily. You can see a lot of loopholes on the plaster walls along the route. The loopholes have several interesting shapes, but they were also a threat to enemies.

The map around the castle

The route to the Main Tower
The loopholes on the plaster walls

The farther you go, the closer the Main Towers get; however, the route suddenly changes direction before the Ninomon Gate. In addition, the entrance of the gate is very low and narrow under the turret building for the gate. Enemies would have been very confused to see such a defense system. You will enter the Main Tower Enclosure after passing the next gate called Honomon. You can see a mud wall on the right, which looks different from the castle’s other white plaster walls. It is called “Abura-kabe” or the Oil Wall and said to derive from Hideyoshi’s period. The wall actually hid other gates to the Large Main Tower. You will need to go through five more gates to reach the tower! The three Small Main Towers are along the route to protect the Large Main Tower.

Ninomon Gate  (licensed by そらみみ via Wikimedia Commons)
The Oil Wall (licensed by 663highland via Wikimedia Commons)
The Small Main Towers protecting the Large Main Tower

To be continued in “Himeji Castle Part3”
Back to “Himeji Castle Part1”

59.姫路城 その2

城と町が一体化

特徴(姫路駅から天守まで)

姫路駅の北口(姫路城口)から外に出ると、天守が駅の正面の大通りに向かった遥かに見えます。城と町が一体化しているかのようです。かつては外堀がこの辺りに築かれていました。天守はここからまだ1.5kmのところにあります。通りに沿って城に向かう途中に、左側に中ノ門跡の石垣が見えます。ここには中堀がありました。この辺りは現在市街地になっていますが、通りがまるで城への参道のようです。

城周辺の航空写真

姫路駅から見る姫路城
中ノ門跡

やがて、内堀の前にたどり着きます。堀の内側は城の主要部で「内郭」と呼ばれます。大手門である桜門は内郭の入口となっていて、堀にかかる橋を渡って入っていきます。この門は一時撤去されましたが復元されました。三の丸の広大な空き地が見えますが、かつては多くの屋敷が建っていました。姫山の上に建つ天守が間近に見えてきました。

復元された桜門(大手門)
三の丸広場
姫山に立つ天守

入場券売り場は広場の奥の方にあります。入場券を買ったら、二の丸の入口である菱の門から入っていきます。この門からは姫山にある天守と、鷺山にある西の丸両方に行くことができます。ここが両方の山の谷間にあるからです。門の内側には三国堀があり、かつては貯水池であったと言われています。天守はより大きく見えます。

菱の門
三国堀 (taken by わゆすけ from photoAC)
大きく見えてくる天守

天守にたどり着くには、目の前にある多くの門を通っていかなければなりません。実は、三国堀の右側には天守への近道があるのですが、観光客からは探しにくい所にあります。これは敵からも見つかりにくかったということです。道筋の漆喰壁には多くの狭間があります。これらの狭間は面白い形をしていますが、敵にとってはこれも脅威であったでしょう。

城周辺の地図

天守に向かう通路
漆喰壁に開けられた狭間

進めば進むほど、天守に近づいてきますが、ところが、道筋は「にの門」の前で突然方向が変わります。この門の入口は、櫓の下でとても低く狭くなっています。敵がこのような防御システムを見たらとても困惑したことでしょう。次の「ほの門」を過ぎると、天守曲輪に入っていきます。右側には土壁が見えますが、この城の他の白い漆喰壁とは違って見えます。これは「油壁」といい、秀吉の時代に由来すると言われています。実はこの壁は大天守への他の門を隠しているのです。そして天守に着くにはあと5つもの門を通るのです。また、3つの小天守は、大天守を守るためにこの道沿いにあるのです。

にの門 (licensed by そらみみ via Wikimedia Commons)
油壁 (licensed by 663highland via Wikimedia Commons)
大天守を守る小天守群 (licensed by alisdair via Wikimedia Commons)

「姫路城その3」に続きます。
「姫路城その1」に戻ります。

145.Kokokuji Castle Part2

The earthen walls and the dry moats are outstanding.

Features

Going to Main Enclosure from Third Enclosure

Now, the marshland around Kokokuji Castle has been turned into the city area. Only the ruins of the castle remain. The modern Nekata Road goes through the ruins. If you visit the ruins by car, you can park at a parking lot in the Third Enclosure, the lowest one out of the three main enclosures. You can walk up from the parking lot to the top Main Enclosure along a gentle slope. The middle tier is the Second Enclosure which looks flat and empty, but it had a round-shaped moat in the past.

The aerial photo around the castle

The entrance of the castle ruins
The Third Enclosure with a parking lot
The Second Enclosure which had a moat

Main Enclosure and its Earthen Walls

The Main Enclosure is still surrounded by large high horseshoe-shaped earthen walls. It’s a fine sight. Inside of the enclosure, there are the monuments of Soun Hojo and Yasukage Amano, and the Homi Shrine which was founded in the Edo Period. The earthen walls on the back of the enclosure are 6m high, and you can walk up to the top by the steps. You can also see the stone walls partly built under the top. There are also foundation stones on the top which are considered the ruins of the base for the Main Tower, but it is thought that a kind of turret was there. You can see a view of the town area with Izu Pninsula on the south from the top.

The earthen walls surrounded by the horseshoe-shaped earthen walls
The monuments of Soun Hojo and Yasukage Amano
The Homi Shrine
The stone walls under the top
The stone foundation for “the base for the Main Tower” on the top
A view from the top

The Dry Moat of Main Enclosure and Northern Part

The large deep dry moat also remains behind the Main Enclosure. You can walk down from the top to the bottom of the moat by the steps as well. It is 18m deep where you can look up the top. You may wonder about the several earthen holes in the walls which were built as air-raid shelters during World War II. The edge of the moat leads to the side of the ruin of the castle which was part of the marshland in the past.

The dry moat behind the Main Enclosure
The air-raid shelters built during World War II
The western side of the ruins

There is also the North Enclosure over the dry moat on the north. Another round-shaped moat was over there, and it was turned into the railway track of Tokaido Shinkansen Super Express. Historians speculate that the set of the round-shaped moats were built by the Takeda Clan or the Tokugawa Clan who used to build similar systems in other castles.

The Main Enclosure seen from the North Enclosure
The railway track of Tokaido Shinkansen Super Express which was a moat

To be continued in “Kokokuji Castle Part3”
Back to “Kokokuji Castle Part1”

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