36.Maruoka Castle Part3

The Main Tower survived two crises.

Later History

After the Meiji Restoration, Maruoka Castle was abandoned. All the buildings of the castle including the Main Tower were sold. However, the tower was priced very low because it couldn’t be used for general offices or residences. It was impossible to scrap or move the tower for a low price. The buyer was not able to do anything to the tower, while the other buildings were moved or demolished. All of the water moats were also filled to create more land space in the city. The owners of the tower finally donated it to the officials in 1901. That’s why only the Main Tower remains now.

The miniature model of Maruoka Castle, all the buildings of the castle except for the Main Tower were sold and demolished.

In 1948, The Main Tower and its stone wall base collapsed due to the Fukui Earthquake. However, people in this area restored the tower in 1955 to almost the same condition as the original one. This was because they researched the details of the tower when it was repaired 8 years before the earthquake. They used about 70% of the original main materials to restore it. Such a method is usually used to repair other remaining castle buildings in Japan. That means the Main Tower of Maruoka Castle is valuable like it had been before the earthquake.

The stone grampuses which fell from the roof when the earthquake happened

My Impression

If you have time after visiting the inside of the Main Tower of Maruoka Castle, how about walking around the castle along the trace of the Inner Moat? The moat was turned into city area, but the outer edge of the moat remains as a road. If you walk along the road, you can look up a beautiful view of the Main Tower on the hill. I was honestly envious of the people who can see the view every day when I walked. In fact, Sakai City is considering restoring part of the Inner Moat and make a park inside it over the next 50 years to make the castle more attractive.

The Main Tower of Maruoka Castle seen from the road, former Inner Moat

The trace of the Inner Moat on the present road

Another photo from a different point on the road

How to get There

If you want to visit there by car:
It is about 10 minutes away from Maruoka IC on Hokuriku Expressway.
The castle park offers a parking lot.
By public transportation, take the bus bound for Eiheiji-eki-mae from JR Maruoka Station and get off at the Maruoka Bus Terminal bus stop. It takes about 5 minutes to get there on foot.
To get to Maruoka Station from Tokyo: Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen super express, transfer to the Hokuriku Line at Kanazawa Station.
From Osaka: Take the Thunderbird limited express and transfer to a local train on the Hokuriku Line at Fukui Station.

That’s all. Thank you.
Back to “Maruoka Castle Part1”
Back to “Maruoka Castle Part2”

36.丸岡城 その3

天守には2回の危機がありました。

その後

明治維新後、丸岡城は廃城となりました。天守を含む城の全ての建物は入札にかけられました。ところが、天守の建物の落札額はとても低いものでした。通常の役所や住居として使うことができなかったからです。また、解体して廃材にしたり移設するにはあまりに低い金額でした。落札者は結局天守に何も手をつけることができず、その間他の建物は移設されたり、撤去されていきました。全ての水堀は埋められ、市街地として使われました。天守の所有者はついに、1901年に天守を公共に寄付することにしたのです。そのため、天守だけが今に残っているのです。

天守内にある丸岡城の模型、天守以外の建物は全て売却、撤去されました

1948年、天守と天守台石垣は福井地震により崩壊しました。しかし、地元の人たちは1955年に天守をほとんど元通りに復元しました。これは、地震の8年前に天守を修理した際、その詳細を調査してあったから可能だったのです。復元にあたっては、元から使っていた部材の約7割を再利用しました。日本の他の城の建物を修理するときにも通常、同様のやり方で行われています。つまり、丸岡城天守は、地震の前と同等の価値を維持したと言えるのです。

福井地震の際、落下した石製の鯱

私の感想

丸岡城天守の中を見た後、お時間があれば、内堀の痕跡に沿って城の周りを歩いてみてはいかがでしょう。堀自体は市街地になってしまっていますが、堀の外側の輪郭線は道路として残っています。その道路に沿って歩いてみると、丘の上にある美しい天守の姿を見上げることができます。自分で歩いてみたとき、正直毎日その天守の姿を見ている人たちを羨ましく思いました。実は坂井市は、城の魅力アップのために50年かけて内堀の一部を復元し、その内側を公園化することを検討しています。(現在そのエリアに住んでいる人が住居の建て替えをする際、公有地化をお願いするようです。)

元の内堀ラインから見える丸岡城天守

道路として残っている内堀のライン

別の場所からもう一枚

ここに行くには

車で行く場合:北陸自動車道の丸岡ICから約10分かかります。城がある公園に駐車場があります。
公共交通機関を使う場合は、JR丸岡駅から永平寺駅前行きのバスに乗って、丸岡バスターミナルバス停で降りてください。
そこから歩いて約5分のところです。
東京から丸岡駅まで:北陸新幹線に乗って、金沢駅で北陸線に乗り換えてください。
大阪から:特急サンダーバード号に乗って、福井駅で北陸線の普通列車に乗り換えてください。

リンク、参考情報

丸岡城 公式サイト
・「丸岡城~ここまでわかった!お天守の新しい知見と謎~/吉田純一著」坂井市文化課丸岡城国宝化推進室
・「よみがえる日本の城8」「天守のすべて①」学研
・「城の科学 個性豊かな天守の「超」技術/萩原さち子著」ブルーバックス新書
・「丸岡城周辺整備基本計画」坂井市

これで終わります。ありがとうございました。
「丸岡城その1」に戻ります。
「丸岡城その2」に戻ります。

36.Maruoka Castle Part2

The attractive Main Tower that is discussed by many, from then until now.

Features

Old looking Main Tower

Today, Maruoka Castle has only the remaining Main Tower on the hill at the site. The Main Tower is about 12m high with two levels and three stories, not so large compared with the other remaining Main Towers in Japan. However, it stands out when you see it from the area around. It has a 6m high stone wall base and is on a 27m high hill.

The Main Tower standing out on the hill

The map around the
castle

If you drive to the castle, you can park at the parking lot in the former Second Enclosure and walk to the Main Tower on the well-developed route for visitors.

The parking lot, former Second Enclosure
The route to the Main Tower

You may feel the Main Tower looks very old like many other people who feel the same way. This type of the tower is called the Lookout Tower Type, which refers to a small lookout tower on a large turret with the hip-and-gable roof. This type is considered the first one among the Main Towers in Japan. The top floor of Maruoka Castle’s Main Tower has a veranda, which is a feature of the early Lookout Tower Type. Its many wooden parts were left bare in the tower, which is also a feature of that type. In addition, the rooftiles of the tower are made of stone because of the cold climate in the winter around this area. This is the only case in the twelve remaining Main Towers. These rooftiles make the tower look older, too. For these reasons, many people expected the Main Tower of Maruoka Castle to be the oldest remaining one in Japan.

The old-fashioned Main Tower of Maruoka Castle
The stone rooftiles seen through the window of the second floor of the tower

Is Main Tower of Maruoka Castle Oldest or not?

On the other hand, some specialists argued that the Main Tower of Maruoka Castle is not as old as the other remaining ones. One of the reasons for it is that the veranda is not practical, just for decoration. Using verandas for decoration can be seen in castle buildings much later than the period the people, who wanted Maruoka Castle to be the oldest, expected. Other architects also argued that the structure of the tower can also be seen much later designs.

You can’t go out to the veranda at the top floor of the tower

The Main Tower of Maruoka Castle has been designated as an Important Cultural Property since 1950. Sakai City thought the tower would become a National Treasure if it was confirmed as the oldest Main Tower in Japan. In 2018, the city conducted research to find out when the tower was built with the latest technology. It was mainly done by the growth ring dating method to confirm when the wooden materials of the tower were cut. The result was that the materials were cut in 1620s, and the tower was built in the period or later. It was much later than what the city expected. Overall, the tower is thought to have been built after the Honda Clan became an independent lord of Maruoka Castle. That means the builder of the Main Tower, probably the Honda Clan, built the tower with the old style intentionally.

The Main Tower of Maruoka Castle is not the oldest

Interior of Main Tower

The Main Tower is not the oldest, but of course, it is worth visiting. You can climb up on the original stone steps to the first floor of the tower.

The entrance of the Main Tower

The floor is the large room in the turret part, and it has a lot of columns to support the weight of the tower including the stone rooftiles.

The first floor of the tower

The floor also has loopholes for guns and bay windows used for machicolations along the walls to protect the tower.

One of the loopholes for guns
One of the bay windows

You can also climb up the very steep stairway at 65 degrees to the second floor, with the rope to help you. The second floor is the attic of the tower part, but it has windows in the roof of the first floor.

The stairway to the second floor
The second floor of the tower

Be careful when you go up to the top floor because the stairway to the floor is steeper at 67 degrees! The top floor has windows in all directions, so is open and bright. You can see a good view of the city area and the back of the ridge-end tiles made of stone from the floor.

The steeper stairway to the too floor
The top floor of the tower
A view from the top floor
The back of one of the ridge-end tiles

To be continued in “Maruoka Castle Part3”
Back to “Maruoka Castle Part1”