The castle for the western defense of the Hojo Clan
Location and History
Western Defense for Hojo Clan
Yamanaka Castle was located on the west of Hakone Barrier, the western gateway of Kanto Region, now in the eastern part of Shizuoka Prefecture. The castle was first built in the middle 16th Century during the Sengoku Period by the Hojo Clan, who owned Kanto Region. The clan aimed to protect their home base, Odawara Castle on the eastern side of Hakone Barrier, by building Yamanaka Castle. This castle was also improved before the ruler, Hideyoshi Toyotomi, attacked the Hojo Clan in 1590.
The location of the castle
Yamanaka Castle was built surrounding the Tokaido Road, one of the major roads in Japan. During that time, if someone walked up the slope on the road from the west, it would require passing through the castle. The road was actually on the Third Enclosures of the castle, and beside the Main Enclosure. The Third Enclosure also had water moats on the west to prevent enemies’ attacks and was for the water reservoir. On the south of the Third Enclosure, a long defense strongpoint called “Taizaki-demaru” spread with the road parallelly. On the west of the Third Enclosure, the Second Enclosure, the West Enclosure, and the West Turret were added towards that direction. These enclosures were able to work closely to prevent attacks from enemy forces.
Hojo’s Unique Methods for building Castle
The techniques used in the castle were unique to the Hojo Clan. All the enclosures were made of earthworks, using natural terrain such as ridges and valleys. They were mainly connected by wooden bridges which could fall down when a battle happened. They were also divided by deep dry moats whose bottoms were left parallel or as latticed ridges. The method for building the moats is called “Une-bori” for the parallel ridges and “Shoji-bori” for the latticed ridges. These dry moat building methods are considered features of the Hojo’s castles. Once soldiers fell into the moat, they couldn’t move from there at all. The area of the castle reached about 200,000 square meters. Hojo thought the castle could make Hideyoshi stuck for a while.
Fall in Battle of Yamanaka Castle
However, the castle was captured by Hideyoshi in just half a day. In the early morning, March 29, 1590, nearly 70,000 soldiers of Hideyoshi’s troop started to attack the castle, while the number of the defenders was only about 4,000. The attackers first charged both the West Turret and the Taizaki-Demaru defense strongpoint, but they suffered a significant number of casualties by the counterattack of Hojo’s guns. If it was a local battle, the attacker might have paused the charge to prevent more damages. However, the commanders forcibly continued to charge, otherwise, they might have been fired by the ruler. That resulted in the success of capturing the castle for Hideyoshi in exchange for a lot of dead soldiers including one of the Hideyoshi’s commander, Naosue Hitotsuyanagi.
This battle lasted for a few hours. It is said that another reason for the short battle was that Hojo’s soldiers were confused because their head, Ujikatsu Hojo, escaped from the castle. Others point out that the Taizaki-Demaru defense strongpoint was unfinished in construction before Hideyoshi’s attack. Anyway, even such a strong castle couldn’t survive without enough soldiers and the right instructions.
名胡桃事件で有名な城
The castle famous for the Nagurumi Incident
立地と歴史~Location and History
沼田城への橋頭保~Foothold for Numata Castle
名胡桃城は上野国(現在の群馬県)北部にありました。この城は戦国時代の16世紀後半に大河である利根川西岸の崖の上に築かれました。川を渡った反対側には沼田城があり、そこは関東地方の戦国大名にとっては非常に戦略的な拠点でした。武田氏の配下であった真田氏が沼田城を確保するための橋頭保として1579年に名胡桃城を築き、1580年には実際に沼田城を手に入れました。 Nagurumi Castle was located in the north part of Kozuke Province (what is now Gunma Prefecture). It was built in the late 16th Century during the Sengoku Period, on a cliff near the west bank of a large river called Tone-gawa. At the opposite side across the river, there was Numata Castle which was a very strategic spot for warlords in Kanto Region. The Sanada Clan under the Takeda Clan built Nagurumi Castle in 1579 as a foothold for capturing Numata Castle which actually belonged to Sanada in 1580.
城の位置~The location of the castle
城周辺の起伏地図~The relief map around the castle
名胡桃事件の発生~Nagurumi Incident happens
真田氏はしばらく沼田城を維持していましたが、1589年7月の天下人豊臣秀吉の裁定により、北条氏に引き渡されてしまいます。一方真田氏は、名胡桃城はまだ領土の一部としていました。この裁定は北条が秀吉の臣下になるという条件の下に行われました。1589年11月、豊臣秀吉の命令に逆らい、北条は名胡桃城を占領しました。この事件は名胡桃事件と呼ばれています。真田氏は秀吉に事件のことを訴え、秀吉は激怒し北条を成敗することを決定しました。北条氏は当時最も有力な戦国大名の一つでしたが、この事件は1590年の小田原征伐での滅亡につながります。定説によれば、北条は世の中の流れを見誤ったとされています。 The Sanada Clan held Numata Castle for a while, but the castle was handed over to the Hojo Clan under the decision by the ruler Hideyoshi Toyotomi in July 1589, while Sanada still kept Nagurumi Castle in their territory. The decision was made on condition that Hojo would become a vassal of Hideyoshi. In November 1589, against the instructions of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, the Hojo Clan seized Nagurumi Castle. The incident at the castle is called the Nagurumi Incident. The Sanada Clan appealed it to Hideyoshi who was very angry about it and decided to defeat Hojo instead. The Hojo Clan was one of the greatest warlords at that time, but this incident led to their fall in the Siege of Odawara Castle in 1590. The established theory says Hojo misjudged the current tide.
秀吉と真田の陰謀か~Trick by Hideyoshi and Sanada?
しなしながら、歴史家の森田喜明は、この事件は秀吉と真田による謀略であったと反論しています。秀吉が残した手紙によると、彼は既に遅くとも1589年の10月には北条を成敗することを決めていたと言います。秀吉が1589年12月にこの事件のことを北条に問いただした時、北条は平然と、名胡桃城もまた真田から北条に引き渡されたものであり、秀吉に会うための準備を引き続き進めていると答えています。実は、秀吉が名胡桃城を真田側に留めるという裁定内容は、彼から北条への手紙に初めて出てくるのです。更には、発掘調査によれば、名胡桃城跡では戦いや火災があった跡は発見されていません。この新説は実に興味深いものです。 However, a historian Yoshiaki Morita argues that this incident was a trick made by Hideyoshi and Sanada. He says that Hideyoshi had already decided to defeat Hojo at latest in October 1589 according to Hideyoshi’s letters. When Hideyoshi asked Hojo about the incident in December 1589, Hojo answered Hideyoshi calmly that Nagurumi Castle had also been handed over to Hojo by Sanada and they still continued to prepare the meeting with Hideyoshi. In fact, the decision by Hideyoshi to keep Nagurumi Castle on Sanada’s side was shown in his letter to Hojo for the first time. In addition, there is no evidence of a battle or fire in the ruin of Nagurumi Castle according to the excavation team. This new theory is very intriguing.
いずれにしろ、北条氏が滅んだ後、沼田・名胡桃両城は真田氏のものとなりました。名胡桃城はその後すぐに廃城となります。真田による沼田城の支配が安定し、その役割が既に終わったからです。城の生涯は10年あまりでした。 Anyway, the fact is that the Sanada Clan owned both Numata and Nagurumi Castles again after the Hojo Clan was defeated. Nagurumi Castle was abandoned soon after that because its role had already ended when Sanada’s governance of Numata Castle became stable. The castle survived for more than ten years.
特徴~Features
自然の地形を生かして築城~Built using Natural terrain
現在、名胡桃城跡は行政によりよく整備されていますが、規模は大きくありません。それは、沼田城を手に入れるための橋頭保という、この城の目的が特定且つ一時的なものだからです。しかしながら、この城が崖から突き出た岬のような自然の地形を生かして作られているのが今でもよくわかります。この地形は、空堀によって三つの主要な郭~主郭、二郭、三郭、に先から元に向かって分かれています。その先には更に2つの郭~ささ郭と物見郭が見張りのために加えられていました。 Now, the ruins of Nagurumi Castle are well developed by officials, but their scale is small. This is because the purpose of the castle, the foothold for capturing Numata Castle, was specific and temporally. However, you can even now see the castle is built using the natural terrain of a shape like a cape sticking out of the cliff. The terrain is divided by dry moats into the three major enclosures – the Main Enclosure, the Second Enclosure, and the Third Enclosure from the top to the bottom. Over the top, two more small enclosures – Sasa-Kuruwa and Monomi-Kuruwa were added to look out.
城周辺の航空写真~The aerial photo around the castle
根元の方には「馬出し」と呼ばれる丸い形で突き出ている防御システムが加えられ、現在でもその形をなぞった線によりわかるようになっています。 At the bottom, a sticking out round shaped defensive position called “Umadashi” was added, the tracing line for the Umadashi shows it now.
主要部分の構造~Structures of Main Portion
これらの郭の間をつなぐ木橋と接続部分が復元されています。それぞれの郭は簡単な櫓とともに高い土塁と今よりずっと深い空堀によって囲まれていました。二郭は大きな郭でいくつかの建物がありました。主郭には城の記念碑が設置されています。ささ郭まで行くことができ、利根川と沼田市域の景色を眺めることができます。 Wooden bridges and zigzagged connecting points have been restored between these enclosures. Each enclosure was surrounded by high earthen walls with simple turrets and much deeper dry moats in the past. The Second Enclosure is the large one where several buildings stood. The monument of the castle is placed on the First Enclosure. You can go as far as the Sasa-Kuruwa Enclosure to have a view of Tone-gawa River and Numata City area.
その他の見所~Other Attractions
城で最も大きな郭は般若郭で、他の郭とは別の並びの所にあります。この郭は、多くの兵士を駐屯されるために使われたと考えられています。現在は、ここに車を駐車できます。 The largest enclosure in the castle called Hannya-Kuruwa is in a different line from the other enclosures. It is thought that this enclosure was used to station a lot of soldiers. You can now park your car at this enclosure.
城址案内所では城とその歴史のついてより学ぶことができます。もちろん、そこで説明されているのは、この城は決して北条に引き渡されていなかったという定説の方です。 You can learn more about the castle and its history at the information office. Of course, the explanation of the office is based on the established theory that the castle of never handed over to Hojo.
その後~Later History
名胡桃城は早くに廃城となりましたが、その名はとてもよく知られています。例えば、江戸時代後期の有名な日本の歴史書である「日本外史」には名胡桃事件のことが書かれています。1923年、地元の人々が城の保存会を立ち上げ、1927年には本郭に記念碑を建て、歴史公園として城跡を整備しました。更に最近では、みなかみ町が1992年から2006年までの間、城の発掘を行いました。2015年までに町は、詳細な発掘の成果に基づき土塁や木橋の一部の復元を行い、公園の整備を進めました。城跡は現在、群馬県の史跡に指定されています。 Nagurumi Castle was abandoned earlier, but its name is very well known. For example, a famous textbook for Japanese history in the late Edo Period, called “Nihon-Gaishi”, described the Nagurumi Incident. In 1923, the local people launched the preservation society for the castle and developed the ruins as a historical park building the monument at the Main Enclosure in 1927. In more recent years, Minakami Town excavated the castle between 1992 and 2006. By 2015, the town had developed the park more by restoring part of the earthen walls and wooden bridges according to the details of the achievements of the excavation. The ruins is now designated as a Prefectural Historic Site of Gunma.
私の感想~My Impression
名胡桃城は広くもなく、石垣の上の天守のような大きな建物もありませんでした。しかし、戦国大名が築いた無数の城の一例なのです。ほとんどの城は特定の目的のみに作られ、その役目を終えれば廃城となりました。名胡桃城はそのような城だったのですが、有名になったがゆえによく整備された城跡として見ることができるのです。この城は地味ですが有益だと思います。そして実際の歴史を学ぶためによい教材だと思うのです。 Nagurumi Castle was not large and didn’t have large buildings like a Main Tower on stone walls. However, it was an example of an uncountable number of castles warlord built. Most of these castles were built just for their specific roles and abandoned after their roles ended. Nagurumi Castle was one such castle, but we can enjoy seeing its well-developed ruins because the castle has become famous. I think the castle is simple, but useful. It is a good teaching resource for people to learn real history.
ここに行くには~How to get There
関越自動車道の月夜野ICから約10分のところにあります。般若郭に駐車場があります。 公共交通機関を使う場合には、上越新幹線の上毛高原駅か、JR上越線の後閑駅からタクシーに乗ってください。 It takes about 10 minutes driving from Tsukiyouno IC on Kanetsu Expressway. The ruins offer a parking lot in Hannya-Kuruwa enclosure. If you want to go there by public transportation, take a taxi from Jomo-Kogen Station on Joetsu-Shinkansen Super express or from Gokan Station on JR Joetsu Line.
杉林に囲まれた城跡
The castle ruins surrounded by a cedar forest
立地と歴史~Location and History
大和三城の一つ~One of Three Greatest Castles in Yamato Province
宇陀松山城は奈良県の北西部、宇陀市にありました。宇陀市は、林業と古い町並みで知られています。大阪市から車で約1時間ほどの場所です。宇陀松山城は最初は「城山」という473mの高さの山の上に、秋山氏によって築かれました。 Uda-Matsuyama Castle was located in Uda City in the north east part of Nana Prefecture. Uda City is known for its forest industry and old town. The city is approximately one hour by car from Osaka City. The Uda-Matsuyama Castle was first built on a 473m high mountain called “Shiroyama” by the Akiyama Clan.
城の位置~The location of the castle
1585年、豊臣秀長が大和国(現在の奈良県)の統治を始めたとき、彼自身は大和郡山城を居城としていました。一方で、彼は家臣を、支城である高取城と宇陀松山城に派遣しました。その家臣のうち、主には多賀秀種が宇陀松山城を拡張しました。秀種は大和国の東部に領地を持っていて、東にある伊勢国との国境の防衛のため、城を用いていました。 In 1585, when Hidenaga Toyotomi started to govern Yamato Province (what is now Nana Prefecture), he lived in Yamato-Koriyama Castle, while he sent his retainers to Takatori and Uda Matsuyama Castles as his branch castles. Among the retainers was Hidetane Taga, who mainly developed the Uda Matsuyama Castle. Hidetane was granted the eastern part of the province with the intention to use the castle to prepare for the defense of the border between Yamato and Ise Province from the east.
多賀秀種が城を改修~Hidetane Taga improves Castle
秀種は、この城を近世的なスタイルに変えました。城はいくつかの部分に分けられていました。御殿があった「本丸」と天守があった「天守郭」が山頂にありました。天守は、郭の大きさからすると2階か3階建てだったと考えられています。郭周辺の土壌から発掘により多賀氏の家紋が入った瓦が発見されています。 Hidetane changed the castle to an early modern style. The castle was divided into several sections: the Main Enclosure or “Honmaru” with the Main Hall, and Tenshu Enclosure with the Main Tower or “Tenshu” on the top of the mountain. The Main Tower is thought to be two or three stories based on the scale of the enclosure. The roof tiles with Taga Clan’s family crest were found by the excavation of the land around the enclosure.
「二の丸」や「帯郭」などの他の郭は、城の中心を取り囲んでいました。城の主要部の基礎部分は全て石垣造りで、多くの櫓が立ち並んでいました。城の出入り口である「虎口」は、櫓門や屈曲した通路によって厳重に守られていました。 Other enclosures such as the Second Enclosure or “Ninomaru” and the Belt Enclosure or “Obi-kuruwa” surrounded the center of the castle. The foundation of this main portion was all made of stone walls where a lot of turrets stood. The entrances to the castle called “Koguchi” were guarded strictly by turret gates and zigzagged routes.
城は破壊された~Castle is Destroyed
1600年、広島城を治めていた有名な福島正則の弟、福島高晴が、多賀秀種の代わりとして、徳川幕府により宇陀松山城に送られてきました。彼は城を改修するとともに、城下町を整備しました。ところが、1615年に彼は幕府により、幕府に反抗していた豊臣氏を支援した疑いから改易となってしまいます。 In 1600, Takaharu Fukushima, the little brother of the famous lord, Masanori Fukusima who governed Hiroshima Castle, was sent to Uda Matsuyama Castle instead of Hidetane Taga by the Tokugawa Shogunate. He also improved the castle and the castle town, however, in 1615, he was fired by the Shogunate due to suspicions about his support of the Toyotomi Clan who was against the Shogunate.
その結果、城は完全に破壊されることになり、建物と石垣は撤去され、通路は埋められました。執行者の一人、小堀政一の手紙が残っていて、作業は進んでいるものの、作業者が足りないということが書かれています。 As a result, the castle was completely destroyed removing the buildings and stone walls and burying the routes. A letter written by one of the executors, Masakazu Kobori, remains and says that he was destroying the castle, but lacked enough workers.
特徴~Features
杉林の中を進む~Going through Cedar Forest
以前観光客は宇陀松山城跡へは、市街地にある城の正門であった春日門跡から行くことができました。ところが、2018年の豪雨災害により「大手道」が閉鎖されており、通ることができません(2021年4月現在)。代わりに、まちづくりセンター「千軒舎」の脇道を通って行くことができます。もしかすると、城跡に向かっているのか疑問に思うかもしれません。美しく、よく手入れが行き届いた杉林が見えてくるからです。 Previously, visitors could visit the ruins of Uda-Matsuyama Castle from the Kasuga Gate Ruins in the town area which was the front gate of the castle. However, visitors can no longer do so because the Main Route or “Ote-michi” to the castle is closed (as of January 2021) due to a storm disaster in 2018. Instead, visitors can go through the side road beside the Town Planning Center called “Sengensha”. You may not be sure you are going to the ruins of a castle, as you will see a beautiful, well-maintained cedar forest.
わずかに残る遺跡~Few remaining Ruins
約10分間登っていくと、城跡の入口に着きます。そこから山道をあと数分を登らねばなりませんが、そうするうちに空堀と櫓門跡が見えてきます。この門は「雀門」と呼ばれ、「桝形」という四角い空間がありました。桝形は、典型的な防御構造で、その四角い空間は櫓や石垣に囲まれていました。敵は、強力な防御の下を屈曲した通路をくぐり抜けねばなりません。 After about a 10-minute climb, you will reach the entrance of the ruins. You have to climb another trail for a few minutes, then you will see the ruins of a dry moat and one of the turret gates. This gate was called “Suzume-mon” which had a square space called “Masugata”. Masugata refers to a typical defensive structure where the square space is surrounded by turrets and stone walls. Enemies have to survive through a zigzagged route under the strong defense.
城の中心部分~Center of Castle
この城跡は、杉林によって隠されていて、少し変わった雰囲気があります。門を過ぎた後は、本丸に至るジグザグの道をまた進んでいきます。その道上にまた虎口郭門がありましたが、現在は何の痕跡もありません。本丸は、この城では最も広い郭です。ここには5つの棟を持つ御殿があり、また櫓や石垣に囲まれていました。 These ruins have a bit of a unique atmosphere, hidden from view by the cedar forest. After passing through the gate, you also have to go on another zigzagged route to reach the Main Enclosure. There was also the Entrance Enclosure Gate on the route, but there is no trace of it now. The Main Enclosure is the largest enclosure of the castle. It had the Main Hall with five houses and was also surrounded by turrets and stone walls.
城周辺の航空写真~The aerial photo around the castle
天守郭は、本丸の隣りにあります。ここは山の頂点であり、天守がかつて立っていた天守台石垣の一部分がまだ残っています。頂上からは、杉林に囲まれた他の郭や、遥か彼方の他の山々が見えます。 Tenshu Enclosure is next to the Main Enclosure. It is the highest spot of the mountain and parts of the base of the stone walls still remains where the Main Tower once was. You can now see other enclosures surrounded by the cedar forest and other mountains far away from the top.
その後~Later History
宇陀松山城が破壊された後、織田氏がこの地域を治めましたが、城下町の辺りの館に住んでいました。また、春日門跡を修繕して館の門として使用しました。幕府は最終的には織田氏を他の所に移し、直接この地域を統治します。城下町は、商業の町として繁栄を続けました。 After the Uda-Matsuyama Castle was destroyed, the Oda Clan governed this area, but the clan lived in the hall around the castle town. They also repaired and used the Kasuga Gate Ruins as their hall’s gate. The Shogunate lastly governed the area after it transferred the Oda Clan to another place. The castle town continued to prosper as a commercial town.
1995年、宇陀市は城跡の発掘と研究を始めました。その結果、城には山の上に石垣を使った豪華な建物があったことがわかったのです。発掘の成果により、城跡は2006年に国の史跡に指定されました。 Uda City started to excavate and study the ruins of the castle in 1995. It found out that the castle was built using stone walls and had luxurious buildings on the mountain. The ruins were designated as a National Historic Site in 2006 due to the achievement of the excavation.
私の感想~My Impression
発掘や研究の方法は年々進化しています。現在建物がなくても城の建物がどのようなものであったか推測できるのです。今回の訪問と宇陀松山城についての研究により、私は過去にこのような立派な城があったことに本当に驚きました。 The methods of excavation and study have been improving. They have made it possible to speculate what buildings in a castle looked like even if there are no buildings now. From my visit and research about the Uda-Matsuyma Castle, I was actually surprised to learn that there was such a great castle in the past
更には、ある城が残るかどうかは、ほんの小さなことで違ってきてしまうことも知りました。宇陀松山城の場合、高晴がもう少し長く持ちこたえていれば、城跡は高取城のように少なくとも石垣くらいはまともに残っていたと思うのです。 In addition, I also learned that whether something of a castle can remain or not is sometimes based on very small things. In the case of the Uda-Matsuyama Castle, if Takaharu survived a little longer, the ruins of the castle would include at least with decent stone walls like Takatori Castle.
ここに行くには~How to get There
車で行かれる場合は、南阪奈道路の葛城ICから約40分かかります。まちづくりセンターに駐車場があります。 電車の場合は、近鉄大阪線の榛原駅から大宇陀行きのバスに乗って、終点で降りてください。 If you wish to visit there by car, it takes about 40 minutes from the Katsuragi IC on Minami-Hanna Road. There is a parking lot at the Town Planning Center. When using the train, take the bus for Ouda from Haibara Station on Kintetsu Osaka Line, and get off at the last stop.
リンク、参考情報~Links and References
・宇陀松山城跡、宇陀市(Uda City Official Website) ・鬼面百相、史跡宇陀松山城出土資料展パンフレット(Japanese Pamphlet) ・「日本の城改訂版第120号」デアゴスティーニジャパン(Japanese Book)